If you have an automatic transmission the gear selector must be in park or neutral and the vehicle at a full stop to go from 4H to 4L, or vice-versa. A manual transmission must be in neutral and at a full stop. And the shifter throw should be swift and assertive.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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If you have an automatic transmission the gear selector must be in park or neutral and the vehicle at a full stop to go from 4H to 4L, or vice-versa. A manual transmission must be in neutral and at a full stop. And the shifter throw should be swift and assertive.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The High to Low shift is worse than that - it is a manual transmission gear shift between 2.73:1 and 1:1 - which is about like shifting from 2nd to 4th in most transmissions. It is also non-synchronized. So, no clutch, no synchros, big ratio change. Stop fully, put in neutral, wait for 1-3 seconds, then 'bang' that shift quickly and with authority. The longer you take/wait, the worse it will be - even in neutral there is some residual output shaft speed if the transmission is unloaded (transfer case in neutral). Think banging the shift in a dog box and all will be happy. NEVER do it while moving or any other transmission gear than Neutral or Park.
-Charlie
Throttle position sensor
Hey everyone, I have a 2001 4runner 4x4 with a reading of "throttle /pedal position sensor switch A circuit showing up. I changed the sensor out two times but after driveing for 5 minutes i lose the first 3/4 of the throttle and have to limp back home pushing the pedal almost all the way and the auto transmission shifts real hard when its in that mode ? any thoughts ?
Hey everyone, I have a 2001 4runner 4x4 with a reading of "throttle /pedal position sensor switch A circuit showing up. I changed the sensor out two times but after driveing for 5 minutes i lose the first 3/4 of the throttle and have to limp back home pushing the pedal almost all the way and the auto transmission shifts real hard when its in that mode ? any thoughts ?
phattyduck
Elite Member
The 01/02 4Runners have an electronic throttle with a slight mechanical backup. It is more complicated than it looks like from the outside... search the forums here (use the "advanced" search via google) to find more information - it is more than we can get into in this thread.
-Charlie
96RedRunner
Senior Member
I've been learning with my 01 TPS dtc for about a year. Last 2-3 months been going into limp mode and
or a high idle rpm around 1200. Have tapped TPS with screwdriver handle solves problem. Clear code with reader.
Hard shifting comes from TPS-ECM-Trans signal tied together part of limp mode.
3 parts on TB, Accel pos sens, Throttle pos sens, Throttle control motor.
Your case I'd guess maybe the motor setting chain of events
but then Accel pos sens.
Drive by wire TB 23 yr old figure system has a service life. New TB last month on shelf.
Waiting to see what other symptoms arise or it dies.
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Some questions for the question thread
Greetings everyone!
I ve bought a 1999 4runner a few months ago and use it as my daily. This forum has been incredibly helpful and a great resource! Thank you all for that!
Recently a few things have puzzled me and i havent been able to identify the issues nor resolve them. I ll try to list said issues, maybe someone finds the time to give me pointers! I would appreciate any help!
Some info:
1999 4runner - 300k+ miles
2.7 motor 3RZ
Automatic
4x4
1. I went uphill 4x4 engaged (full tank of gasoline) /
Motor was already warm, i came to a halt on flat ground, wanted to put the car in reverse, but the motor had turned off on its own. The car would crank but wouldnt start. All electronics worked fine. - had to wait for another car to jumpstart mine, and it worked. I thought it might have been the battery, but i had replaced that 2 months ago….
A few days later i had the same issue a couple of times, which made me think it must be something related to engaging the 4x4- and going uphill,needing more power,or draining the battery. Thats if the issue has anything to do with the battery… I dont have trouble cold starting, and i certainly dont have trouble starting the car warm after using 4x4 on flat ground. Only uphill 4x4 and on a warm motor.
2. Check engine light keeps coming on an off after it had given me the code for bad oxygen sensors. Replaced both, bank 1 and 2 along with the catalytic conv.
3. Did a recent oil change and new filter. The mechanic advised me to use pennzoil 20w 50 - specifically pennzoil as it is widely available where i live. -always warm never below 65 degrees F. Any thoughts on the type of oil? I did some research and have a feeling it might actually be quite uncommon ?
Thanks in advance
Wishing you all a great weekend!
Greetings everyone!
I ve bought a 1999 4runner a few months ago and use it as my daily. This forum has been incredibly helpful and a great resource! Thank you all for that!
Recently a few things have puzzled me and i havent been able to identify the issues nor resolve them. I ll try to list said issues, maybe someone finds the time to give me pointers! I would appreciate any help!
Some info:
1999 4runner - 300k+ miles
2.7 motor 3RZ
Automatic
4x4
1. I went uphill 4x4 engaged (full tank of gasoline) /
Motor was already warm, i came to a halt on flat ground, wanted to put the car in reverse, but the motor had turned off on its own. The car would crank but wouldnt start. All electronics worked fine. - had to wait for another car to jumpstart mine, and it worked. I thought it might have been the battery, but i had replaced that 2 months ago….
A few days later i had the same issue a couple of times, which made me think it must be something related to engaging the 4x4- and going uphill,needing more power,or draining the battery. Thats if the issue has anything to do with the battery… I dont have trouble cold starting, and i certainly dont have trouble starting the car warm after using 4x4 on flat ground. Only uphill 4x4 and on a warm motor.
2. Check engine light keeps coming on an off after it had given me the code for bad oxygen sensors. Replaced both, bank 1 and 2 along with the catalytic conv.
3. Did a recent oil change and new filter. The mechanic advised me to use pennzoil 20w 50 - specifically pennzoil as it is widely available where i live. -always warm never below 65 degrees F. Any thoughts on the type of oil? I did some research and have a feeling it might actually be quite uncommon ?
Thanks in advance
Wishing you all a great weekend!
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Devbot
New member
If I remember right there was some forum member who attempted it, or perhaps considered it, but it is an extreme amount of work and next to impossible if you don't have a Surf to pull parts from. Otherwise good luck getting, well, practically anything. You'd have to rebuilt/replace nearly everything from the front seats to the bumper.
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Boom_ROASTED
Member
Working on the rear axle seal replacement and replacing everything else I can while I'm at it. I'm not sure what I'm looking for exactly with the grease test..
https://imgur.com/a/FKPnp77
did I push the abs gear and retainer on too far?
https://imgur.com/a/FKPnp77
did I push the abs gear and retainer on too far?
Devbot
New member
Been a year or two but I believe that should be good, seeing how the grease was pushed to the center of the ring. The ABS wheel should be easy to check if you just insert the axle and peep through the speed sensor hole to make sure it's covering the width of it
phattyduck
Elite Member
The whole firewall is different LHD to RHD, along with everything that bolts to it (inside and out), dash, wiring harnesses, AC lines, steering rack and crossmember on frame, etc.
Get a JDM Surf imported from Japan, and you can have the diesel manual of your dreams - it'll be cheaper since you basically need all the parts from one to do the conversion.
-Charlie
woodjunkie
New member
Not so fast there, Boss.
I am looking at the Toyota Shop Manual for the 1997 4runner.
Page DI-148 is a 'Parts Location' diagram.
It shows an 'EFI Main Relay' as being located in the fuse box under hood the driver's side.
It ALSO shows a 'Circuit Opening Relay' as being located in a nebulous no-man's-land that may be under the hood, but may be under the dash!
I have been struggling with a crank-no start mystery, and this shop manual lists the COR as something that must be checked if there's no voltage at the pump.
I have been beating my head against the wall for the better part of a day and a half trying to locate that silly ^&$%#@#$$@, and I'm beginning to believe it's a hoax.
Any ideas?
Edited to add, I have been trying to upload the relevant page from the shop manual, but I guess I don't have those privileges yet.
Help!:wow:
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
#5 is the COR link shows location. TOYOTA 4RUNNERVZN185L-GKPZKA - ELECTRICAL - SWITCH RELAY COMPUTER | Japan Parts EU
woodjunkie
New member
OK. I sure am glad that makes sense to somebody, and I'm damn near depressed that it makes no sense to me.
I'm pretty sure I am such a newb that I can't upload images yet, or I would mark up that page of the catalog you posted to try and get a handle on this thing. . .
OR, I could look in the service manual! HAHA HA! I'm an even bigger moron than I ever suspected! I bought a copy of the service manual the day after I dragged this beast home, and I have yet to comprehend its immense power.
The most expensive book I ever bought.
According to the Manual, the reason I can't find the COR is because I haven't dismantled enough of the dashboard!
I do appreciate your response, RedRunner, and when I get her going, I'll crack a coldie in your honor.
Thanks!
John
woodjunkie
New member
So, yeah. I've been looking for that thing for a couple of days. I had the answer in a book right in front of me the whole time, and once I figured that out I removed, tested and reinstalled it in less than 10 minutes.
Ugh!
Ugh!
96RedRunner
Senior Member
That's called trouble with the curve. The learning curve that is, all been there. :doh:
toyhoda14runner
New member
Stuck Fuel Filter Flare Nut
Welp. Just like everyone else, was able to disconnect the rear nut to tank. Front one is 1000% seized. Spent days preparing by spraying free all before i even touched the thing. I tried flare wrench, vise grips and more but to no avail, needless to say i rounded the nut off. Ive seen people have success with cutting it out and replacing it using those fuel line repair kits. I guess my question is what specifically do i need? Im
fine with going rubber, i dont care. I just need it the filter replaced asap, even more so because when i got the rear nut loose the fuel that came out from the filter was very dark brown. This is my first post so my apologies if its in the wrong place or if i did something wrong. Please someone help me. I took a couple pics for reference but i dont see an upload image button anywhere!!
Welp. Just like everyone else, was able to disconnect the rear nut to tank. Front one is 1000% seized. Spent days preparing by spraying free all before i even touched the thing. I tried flare wrench, vise grips and more but to no avail, needless to say i rounded the nut off. Ive seen people have success with cutting it out and replacing it using those fuel line repair kits. I guess my question is what specifically do i need? Im
fine with going rubber, i dont care. I just need it the filter replaced asap, even more so because when i got the rear nut loose the fuel that came out from the filter was very dark brown. This is my first post so my apologies if its in the wrong place or if i did something wrong. Please someone help me. I took a couple pics for reference but i dont see an upload image button anywhere!!
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DJRodriguez88
New member
You can pull that whole hard line out of another 4runner from the junkyard or someone's parts car on craigslist/offerup. It's only held in by some clips and 2 flare nuts.
Hello,
I just had a tune-up which included oil change, plugs/wires, air/fuel filters, timing belt, PCV valve, o2 sensors, etc. All of the parts were from eBay. The timing belt claimed to be OEM (and it was packaged in Toyota packaging) but I had a friend who works at Toyota install it for me and he said that it wasn't OEM.
Anyways, since the install, I have 2 issues. One of them is my CEL with code P0125 (replace thermostat), and the other is my gas mileage decreasing. I used to get steady mid 15s. Now I get low 15s, high 14s, and recently hit mid 14s. There is no difference in the way the vehicle drives, the way I drive it, the gas I put in it, where I live/drive it, etc. What could be causing this? My friend who installed it said that he had to reuse the o2 sensor gaskets and recommended I change those out for new ones. And also, the o2 sensors were eBay too.
And about the CEL, how important is this? The coolant is fine (no leaks) and temps seem to be operating as usual. Again, this did not come on until after the major tune-up, and there is no difference in the way vehicle runs. Also, I had to change my battery and the CEL remained. So a "reset" didn't fix it either.
TIA
I just had a tune-up which included oil change, plugs/wires, air/fuel filters, timing belt, PCV valve, o2 sensors, etc. All of the parts were from eBay. The timing belt claimed to be OEM (and it was packaged in Toyota packaging) but I had a friend who works at Toyota install it for me and he said that it wasn't OEM.
Anyways, since the install, I have 2 issues. One of them is my CEL with code P0125 (replace thermostat), and the other is my gas mileage decreasing. I used to get steady mid 15s. Now I get low 15s, high 14s, and recently hit mid 14s. There is no difference in the way the vehicle drives, the way I drive it, the gas I put in it, where I live/drive it, etc. What could be causing this? My friend who installed it said that he had to reuse the o2 sensor gaskets and recommended I change those out for new ones. And also, the o2 sensors were eBay too.
And about the CEL, how important is this? The coolant is fine (no leaks) and temps seem to be operating as usual. Again, this did not come on until after the major tune-up, and there is no difference in the way vehicle runs. Also, I had to change my battery and the CEL remained. So a "reset" didn't fix it either.
TIA
Attachments
phattyduck
Elite Member
Well, you are lucky the 5VZ is non-interference. Unless those parts came from a verified/real Toyota dealer selling parts on eBay (there are a few), then EVERYTHING you got is a knock-off and is unlikely to work as designed.
For the coolant temp CEL, get an OBD-II reader that can report live data and see what it says. It should be between 185-195*F at basically all operating conditions after warm up (3-5 minutes unless really cold).
-Charlie
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