The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[woodjunkie]

Welp. Just like everyone else, was able to disconnect the rear nut to tank. Front one is 1000% seized. Spent days preparing by spraying free all before i even touched the thing. I tried flare wrench, vise grips and more but to no avail, needless to say i rounded the nut off. Ive seen people have success with cutting it out and replacing it using those fuel line repair kits. I guess my question is what specifically do i need? Im
fine with going rubber, i dont care. I just need it the filter replaced asap, even more so because when i got the rear nut loose the fuel that came out from the filter was very dark brown. This is my first post so my apologies if its in the wrong place or if i did something wrong. Please someone help me. I took a couple pics for reference but i dont see an upload image button anywhere!!

Hey, man!

I just got done with a fuel pump swap on my '97, and yes, somebody on the assembly line must have got his Newtons mixed up with his inch-pounds, 'cause the fittings on that fuel line were cinched up tighter'n Dicks hat band. WAY over tightened to the point where the threads had been stretched out of spec. I finally just unscrewed it from the filter and took the whole assembly to the bench room, and we're talking STANDING ON THE WRENCHES to get them to turn. I got about 6 turns on one of those couplings and it dawned on me that it didn't MATTER if I ever got the joint to separate because the threads were ruined the day that truck came off the line.

I cut away the ruined portion and replaced it with injector-rated rubber and 2 of the injector-rated clamps on each end.

No issues with the redneck retrofit SO FAR, but I'm guessing the purists will be along shortly . . .

 

[woodjunkie]

#5 is the COR link shows location. TOYOTA 4RUNNERVZN185L-GKPZKA - ELECTRICAL - SWITCH RELAY COMPUTER | Japan Parts EU

Thanks again, Red.

I got Madame Butterfly up and going yesterday, so a Ranger IPA in your honor!

I discovered that the fuel pump was locked up tight, and there was a 30-amp, in-line fuse located right behind the battery that was blown.

I don't know whether one has anything to do with the other, but she goes like stink, so I'm OK with that remaining a mystery.

Onward!

 

[3bears]

rear air deflector feet

I have posted in the parts wanted section, ive gone on ebay, I contacted the guy in marysville washington who parts out 4runners, in the thread of jasons aftermarket spoilers I posted asking if anyone had just the feet, since they might be taking off a stock unit, , I only have 2 wrecking yards within 300 miles and no luck ( well everyone wants to sell with the deflector) and shipping of all to alaska is spendy, so I am gonna ask here


so I took off my rear wind deflector and feet to repaint, then things happened and I did not get my deflector mounted back up, then I moved, and have lost just the "feet" and all the screws that attaches the stock air deflector to the tailgate


anybody got some ?

 

[jimmyo]

Hello,

I just had a tune-up which included oil change, plugs/wires, air/fuel filters, timing belt, PCV valve, o2 sensors, etc. All of the parts were from eBay. The timing belt claimed to be OEM (and it was packaged in Toyota packaging) but I had a friend who works at Toyota install it for me and he said that it wasn't OEM.

Anyways, since the install, I have 2 issues. One of them is my CEL with code P0125 (replace thermostat), and the other is my gas mileage decreasing. I used to get steady mid 15s. Now I get low 15s, high 14s, and recently hit mid 14s. There is no difference in the way the vehicle drives, the way I drive it, the gas I put in it, where I live/drive it, etc. What could be causing this? My friend who installed it said that he had to reuse the o2 sensor gaskets and recommended I change those out for new ones. And also, the o2 sensors were eBay too.

And about the CEL, how important is this? The coolant is fine (no leaks) and temps seem to be operating as usual. Again, this did not come on until after the major tune-up, and there is no difference in the way vehicle runs. Also, I had to change my battery and the CEL remained. So a "reset" didn't fix it either.

TIA

This means your truck is staying in an open loop which is used on start up before the engine warms up. That is why your mileage went down. Does the engine feel warm/hot to you? If so, either there is air in your cooling system, or the coolant temp sensor is bad, or the coolant sensor wiring is bad. Since you just had your timing belt done, I would look at the wiring to the sensor, or make sure the cooling system has been properly filled. You don't want the drive around all the time with your truck ECU thinking that the engine is cold.

 

[96RedRunner]

Thanks again, Red.

I got Madame Butterfly up and going yesterday, so a Ranger IPA in your honor!

I discovered that the fuel pump was locked up tight, and there was a 30-amp, in-line fuse located right behind the battery that was blown.

I don't know whether one has anything to do with the other, but she goes like stink, so I'm OK with that remaining a mystery.

Onward!

3-4 fingers of 1792 full proof neat at cha for the win. :cheers:

Madame Butterfly Lenny Kravitz? popped in my head.

 

[highmilage4runner]

2002 4 Runner can barely accelerate, no codes, dealer is clueless

I am new here but a long time lurker. I cannot start a new thread so I thought Id take a shot asking here. Recently purchased a '02 4 runner 4wd limited with 328k on the clock. Started to have a slight hesitation at highway speeds from 2-3k rpm. This progressed and got way way worse to the point it cannot go up hills anymore. Cannot rev past 3500 anymore unless the A/F sensor is unplugged. Idles fine, and is recently taking a longer time to crank.
Things that have been replaced or swapped with no change
Plugs
coils
wires
MAF
A/F and rear O2 sensor (both OEM)
Entire throttle assembly (TPS, throttle motor, etc.)
Crank sensor
According to first dealer Compression and fuel pressure are perfect.
No vaccum leaks
CAT allegedly is good but I may check again.
Timing belt water pump and all tensioners were done in last 25k miles.
ECU swap with programmed unit from flagship one.

Of note: it does not hesistate in limp mode. When in regular mode it smells like straight fuel out of the exhaust. Running extremely rich. Out of limp mode it will rev and then drop 300-500 revs like someone took their foot off the throttle.

The issue progressively got worse.
Im down to about 40 hp or less these days. Shop and dealer have no idea what is happening and have never seen anything similar.

Does anyone know something else I should try/test/check that could cause this? Dealer said car is mechanically perfect and they're quite confused.

Thanks,

Wyatt

 

[isaakc004]

'01 Marker Light Screw Threads?

Does anyone know the thread size for part #90168-40122 ? The screws for my corner/marker lights disappeared and I need some new ones

 

[Devbot]

I am new here but a long time lurker. I cannot start a new thread so I thought Id take a shot asking here. Recently purchased a '02 4 runner 4wd limited with 328k on the clock. Started to have a slight hesitation at highway speeds from 2-3k rpm. This progressed and got way way worse to the point it cannot go up hills anymore. Cannot rev past 3500 anymore unless the A/F sensor is unplugged. Idles fine, and is recently taking a longer time to crank.
Things that have been replaced or swapped with no change
Plugs
coils
wires
MAF
A/F and rear O2 sensor (both OEM)
Entire throttle assembly (TPS, throttle motor, etc.)
Crank sensor
According to first dealer Compression and fuel pressure are perfect.
No vaccum leaks
CAT allegedly is good but I may check again.
Timing belt water pump and all tensioners were done in last 25k miles.
ECU swap with programmed unit from flagship one.

Of note: it does not hesistate in limp mode. When in regular mode it smells like straight fuel out of the exhaust. Running extremely rich. Out of limp mode it will rev and then drop 300-500 revs like someone took their foot off the throttle.

The issue progressively got worse.
Im down to about 40 hp or less these days. Shop and dealer have no idea what is happening and have never seen anything similar.

Does anyone know something else I should try/test/check that could cause this? Dealer said car is mechanically perfect and they're quite confused.

Thanks,

Wyatt

How long you've been using that ECU? I would highly suspect it over anything else if it hasn't been long.

 

[96RedRunner]

What he said [MENTION=549924]Devbot[/MENTION]. Where does ecu fit into timing of fubar?

 

[AldoDector]

No Crank No Power

I have a 1998 4runner SR5 3.4. As the title states it has no crank no start, as soon as I click the key onto on everything dims except for some lights on the dash. This has been an issue for a couple months now I just never was able to get to work on it/ didn’t know where to start I did have a crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor code but I cleared it and was able to start up. I had a mechanic looking at it for like 1-2 months, however Iknow he wasn’t putting in the amount of effort I required because he gave up. Anyways, I decided to take a look and plugged in my obd scanner to see if anything came up and noticed that I got full power and it started right up, it did die as soon as I turned my lights on, signals made it bog down but went back up to idle. I read someone say they had a loose pcm (this is ecu right?) ground cable and it fixed it, according to the diagrams below the ground I checked was fine and I even checked it in another location, which was on the left side intake manifold. I decided to look at fuses and noticed my power 30A was missing, interior driver side fuse box, i think the guy looking at it must’ve took it out and never replaced it because he did say he was messing with them but never specified what he did. What do you guys think the issue could be? Bad ground + the power fuse? My ECU? This all happened when I was going over a bunch of dirt bumps and it just died on me so I could suspect something came loose.

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

hoping for some battery/starter related direction before I start poking around

My 2000 sat for nearly 2 months if not more, during which I crank it up a few times besides the last 2 or 3 weeks and then I got in it yesterday and it won't start. Not a peep. I charged the battery ~18 hours (LED shows green "charged") and everything seems normal inside, lights on etc, but nothing happens when I turn the key. I was able to jump it off of my girlfriend's car and let it run for ~10 minutes, turned it off and notice a lack-of-sound where I expected a sound (starter?) immediately after turning off the ignition. I immediately try to crank it bank up and again, not a peep.

The battery is maybe a year old, definitely less than 2, so I'm thinking starter but I am not good with electrical stuff. Like I said it sat for a while so I'm also thinking a bad connection to the starter could also be a possibility.

I just wanted to see what you folks thought about it before I get in there.

Thanks!

 

[AuSeeker]

hoping for some battery/starter related direction before I start poking around

My 2000 sat for nearly 2 months if not more, during which I crank it up a few times besides the last 2 or 3 weeks and then I got in it yesterday and it won't start. Not a peep. I charged the battery ~18 hours (LED shows green "charged") and everything seems normal inside, lights on etc, but nothing happens when I turn the key. I was able to jump it off of my girlfriend's car and let it run for ~10 minutes, turned it off and notice a lack-of-sound where I expected a sound (starter?) immediately after turning off the ignition. I immediately try to crank it bank up and again, not a peep.

The battery is maybe a year old, definitely less than 2, so I'm thinking starter but I am not good with electrical stuff. Like I said it sat for a while so I'm also thinking a bad connection to the starter could also be a possibility.

I just wanted to see what you folks thought about it before I get in there.

Thanks!

I would say not your starter or jumping it wouldn't work, more likely a bad battery connection and or bad ground connection

 

[AuSeeker]

hoping for some battery/starter related direction before I start poking around

My 2000 sat for nearly 2 months if not more, during which I crank it up a few times besides the last 2 or 3 weeks and then I got in it yesterday and it won't start. Not a peep. I charged the battery ~18 hours (LED shows green "charged") and everything seems normal inside, lights on etc, but nothing happens when I turn the key. I was able to jump it off of my girlfriend's car and let it run for ~10 minutes, turned it off and notice a lack-of-sound where I expected a sound (starter?) immediately after turning off the ignition. I immediately try to crank it bank up and again, not a peep.

The battery is maybe a year old, definitely less than 2, so I'm thinking starter but I am not good with electrical stuff. Like I said it sat for a while so I'm also thinking a bad connection to the starter could also be a possibility.

I just wanted to see what you folks thought about it before I get in there.

Thanks!

I would say not your starter or jumping it wouldn't work, more likely a bad battery and or connection and or bad ground connection, just looking to see if the "charged" light is on doesn't tell you the condition of the battery, you need to check the voltage with a multimeter, should be at least 12.3 or more volts.

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

Jumping it did work though. I really doubt the battery is bad but I guess anything is possible. I'll go check it with a multimeter asap tonight

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

I would say not your starter or jumping it wouldn't work, more likely a bad battery and or connection and or bad ground connection, just looking to see if the "charged" light is on doesn't tell you the condition of the battery, you need to check the voltage with a multimeter, should be at least 12.3 or more volts.

Well shit I tested it and it read ~5.5V

I called batteries plus who confirmed I bought it in 2021, older than I realized but still within the warranty period I guess. They said I had to bring it in to test it and confirm whether or not it's defective or wasn't properly maintained. Any idea how they test it and know the difference?

 

[phattyduck]

Any idea how they test it and know the difference?

They want you in there to sell you a new battery...

And for future reference, running the engine for 10 minutes (idling) is NOT GOOD for it. Put it on a battery tender (plug in or solar if not near a plug) and leave it alone or take it for a real drive (10+ miles).

-Charlie

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

They want you in there to sell you a new battery...

And for future reference, running the engine for 10 minutes (idling) is NOT GOOD for it. Put it on a battery tender (plug in or solar if not near a plug) and leave it alone or take it for a real drive (10+ miles).

-Charlie

Had the rear axles out so I was trying to do the best, (I thought), I could. Thank you for that info though.

So it's possible the defect vs owner's fault "test" is bs?

 

[Humboldt4]

Please help!

2001 4runner trd supercharged 350k miles. Trans out of lkq installed 30k ago and now when I come to a stop it just stalls out. It seems like the tc is staying locked up or the trans isn't shifting out of 3rd. Runs great while on the road just when you stop it stalls.

 

[Thatgoodfellow]

Ome trim packer

I’ve got some 906’s on the way for 4Runner and I was wondering if anyone knows the part number for the trim packer. I see the have a 10mm and a 5 mm. Thanks

 

[Crich1]

Hello everyone, I'm having a rough time with an electrical issue and hoping someone can give some advice. A little background on the 4runner, it is a 97 4cyl and we had an issue last year when the solenoid on the starter was stuck open and killed the battery, after replacing that it ran fine for a couple months and then died again on the highway.

Now it will start but the instrument panel doesn't work and I cannot shift out of park. I thought it might have something to do with the ecm because there was exposed wires in the wiring harness and the engine coolant sensor was fried, I patched up the harness, replaced the sensor and had the ecm tested but after all that I have the same issue. Has anyone seen anything this strange? I'm ready to role it off a cliff at this point.