The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[brokedownwallet]

Check out FN Wheels, they have 16" wheels in different flavours and styles, specifically bronze.

Customer service is great and the quality is top notch.

The Konig Countersteer Offroad and FN 5 star seem to be the only options in 16in assuming I was on the right website and both say they're out of stock. I lived the look of the countersteer offroad though. What a shame, bought it too late for the wheels I want it seems .

Hope i get blessed on facebook marketplace one of these days

 

[OpenYota]

The Konig Countersteer Offroad and FN 5 star seem to be the only options in 16in assuming I was on the right website and both say they're out of stock.

This is directly from their website regarding the 16" Konig Countersteers and 16" Five Stars:

"Konig Matte bronze – Extremely limited stock on hand. Please contact us to inquire about ordering matte bronze."

"Five Star Matte Bronze - Very limited stock on hand. Should we sell out of matte bronze, we expect to have more in stock in December 2024"

Give them a call and inquire, they are nice people to deal with.
If it's any consolation I have the Five Stars in their 17" option in gunmetal and they're beautiful.

 

[Endlessblockades]

A 17" wheel with the same tire size will be about the same diameter - just a bit less sidewall. No shame in 17s and a helluva lot more choices. I was just looking at Ray's wheels but those are rather pricey. I'll stick with my rattle-can stock wheels for now.

 

[brokedownwallet]

Thanks! I sent them an email and will call tomorrow, took a sec to navigate through their website. I'm unfortunately a pretty particular perfectionist since this is the first car I actually care enough to make it a little nicer for myself so I'm really overblowing the importance of even small details like 16in vs 17in.. If I can't get these I may settle for the 2022 Trail Edition Tacoma rims if they go on sale again. I appreciate the help in tracking something along the lines of what I'm looking for though. Any compelling reason you chose 17s though? Did some research but many people seem to prefer 16s other thanfor the larger Tundra calipers.

 

[OpenYota]

Any compelling reason you chose 17s though? Did some research but many people seem to prefer 16s other thanfor the larger Tundra calipers.

If memory serves me well I believe I chose a 17" due to the much wider range of tire options you can buy compared to a 16".
My TBU cleared fine with my FN Five Stars as well.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Thanks! I sent them an email and will call tomorrow, took a sec to navigate through their website. I'm unfortunately a pretty particular perfectionist since this is the first car I actually care enough to make it a little nicer for myself so I'm really overblowing the importance of even small details like 16in vs 17in.. If I can't get these I may settle for the 2022 Trail Edition Tacoma rims if they go on sale again. I appreciate the help in tracking something along the lines of what I'm looking for though. Any compelling reason you chose 17s though? Did some research but many people seem to prefer 16s other thanfor the larger Tundra calipers.

Can you share what your preferred budget is, roughly?

TBU fits OEM 16" 5-stars I believe, so those brakes may well fit aftermarket wheels, too.

[MENTION=761513]brokedownwallet[/MENTION]: Edit - wait, what the hell is going on here? 701 - Markdown | Method Bronze(R) – MR70166568990-S – Method Race Wheels

....False alarm. Not in our bolt pattern, apparently. I was gonna grab them at $115 each just because. Sorry.

 

[brokedownwallet]

Yea I saw those and was gonna jump but then saw they were 240 each. Really looking for around 200 each since that seems to be a decent sale price of aftermarket rims and I think I could offset a decent bit of that price with my current 17in aftermarket ones on fb marketplace.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Method always has a Black Friday sale and you can get those for around 215. Dunno about shipping, however. I've always been intrigued by the Bead Grip thing.

 

[Jacob_116]

Hi all,

I've been chasing this sound for months and it has been driving me crazy.
Here is a clip of the sound, I removed the center console/dash to get a clear sound for the video. At the end of the video you can hear me take my foot off the throttle and the sound completely stops.

Exhaust leak? 2002 4Runner 5VZ-FE. Took out center console to hear it better. Sound only under load - YouTube

I've searched nearly every forum/ YouTube video relating to this sound I and I can't seem to find anyone with the same sound/ issue. My issue I have is a raspy/rough sound upon accelerating only. No check engine light and no noticeable issues while driving, only the sound. The noise is not there when I am in park/neutral and rev the engine. My first thought was exhaust leak, I took it to my local shop, had 2 leaks fixed and the sound is the same. Since then I have replaced the following. Fuel Filter, MAF, O2 sensor, oil and filter and air filter (spark plugs have less than 10k mi with coil packs replaces at the same time). I have also ran a few tanks of gas with fuel injector cleaner and sea foam in the gas tank as well as seafoam in crank case and the upper engine spray. I have also ran a few tanks of 91 Octane so I know its not pinging or detonation. So far nothing I have done has affected the sound, however the truck does feel smoother and more responsive since I began this process.

At this point I'm leaning towards potential vacuum leak somewhere? Or possibly exhaust leak in the crossover pipe that the muffler shop missed? (I doubt this is the case as the muffler shop is reputable)

Has anyone dealt with sound before? Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[DonJuan]

fuse relay junction question

My fist post on this forum! I’ve been here several times, but always found what I was searching for and had no value to add.

I am stumped, and scouring the internet has not proven fruitful for me. So, I am coming to the source and need to tap the collective experience/wisdom/guru science of the board.

I have 2 3rd Gen 4Runners (2001,2002), both are limited 2wd. One has the “door lock issue” that requires a new fuse relay junction box. I have found several used ones on ebay, BUT…… the 2001 and 2002 have a unique box apparently (according to the OEM parts catalog).

When you take the fuse access panel off by your left leg (drivers side obviously) to see the part, there is a sticker on it under the front buss connection. BOTH OF MY 4Runners sticker end with “9061” being the last part of the numbers (ex: 1G26 - 0394 9061). ALL of the ebay ones end with “9060” instead.

Does anybody know the difference between the “9060” and “9061” parts on these? I think all of the Limited’s have an engine immobilizer, so I don’t think that’s it. I would like my door locks to work so I need your help figuring this out. I have pics, but can’t host them.

Thanks in Advance!!!

 

[Endlessblockades]

My fist post on this forum! I’ve been here several times, but always found what I was searching for and had no value to add.

I am stumped, and scouring the internet has not proven fruitful for me. So, I am coming to the source and need to tap the collective experience/wisdom/guru science of the board.

I have 2 3rd Gen 4Runners (2001,2002), both are limited 2wd. One has the “door lock issue” that requires a new fuse relay junction box. I have found several used ones on ebay, BUT…… the 2001 and 2002 have a unique box apparently (according to the OEM parts catalog).

When you take the fuse access panel off by your left leg (drivers side obviously) to see the part, there is a sticker on it under the front buss connection. BOTH OF MY 4Runners sticker end with “9061” being the last part of the numbers (ex: 1G26 - 0394 9061). ALL of the ebay ones end with “9060” instead.

Does anybody know the difference between the “9060” and “9061” parts on these? I think all of the Limited’s have an engine immobilizer, so I don’t think that’s it. I would like my door locks to work so I need your help figuring this out. I have pics, but can’t host them.

Thanks in Advance!!!

To upload a pic from your device, you can click the Paper Clip icon and browse to the image. This old forum has image size limitations, so if you get Upload Failed, shrink it. I go no bigger than 1400 pixels in either direction.

 

[02 4runner]

Im lost. Help

So I've got this 4runner that hasn't been ran in a while and has needed some work, more so the transmission. It was left with the pan on it and I've just started with it, I've replaced the filter and gasket and have got everything back installed, but I just tried to fill the transmission with fluid and when I fill it, it'll just fill the tube then slowly go into the pan, I've tried tubes, funnels, and a pump but nothing will let it just flow in, my question is, is something need to be able to relieve the pressure. I might try to pump it into the return line going from the radiator for the trans cooler, just didnt know if there were any tips or knowings of why this is.

 

[AuSeeker]

So I've got this 4runner that hasn't been ran in a while and has needed some work, more so the transmission. It was left with the pan on it and I've just started with it, I've replaced the filter and gasket and have got everything back installed, but I just tried to fill the transmission with fluid and when I fill it, it'll just fill the tube then slowly go into the pan, I've tried tubes, funnels, and a pump but nothing will let it just flow in, my question is, is something need to be able to relieve the pressure. I might try to pump it into the return line going from the radiator for the trans cooler, just didnt know if there were any tips or knowings of why this is.

I would keep putting it in the dipstick tube, that's the way it was designed to do, albeit it is notoriously slow going in/down the tube...but I don't think you will get it in any faster trying any other method.

 

[dealton]

Thinking of buying a 2000 4Runner SR5 4x4

The 4runner has around 191k miles some flaw include:
weird ticking noise from engine when parked and idling
Needs front driver lower ball joint replaced
missing back seats and back carpet
Valve Cover gasket beginning to leak

Some pros include:
Jba upper control arms
Trd Grill w/led grille filler panels
2.5" Rough Country lift
2" body lift
Aftermarket Stereo w/backup cam
KMC Wheels

He's asking $5k I'm thinking of getting him down to $4k. What y'all think? Is it worth fixing up and putting some money into it?

 

[Tgreezy03]

Hi all, first post, I’ve been lurking & ordering tons of parts sitting in my living room - wife going to kill me! Have a really dumb ocd question, anyone know where I can get this little tie down replacement part? Thank you

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Hi all, first post, I’ve been lurking & ordering tons of parts sitting in my living room - wife going to kill me! Have a really dumb ocd question, anyone know where I can get this little tie down replacement part? Thank you

I believe it's this one - Buy Genuine Toyota 6493335010 (64933-35010) Bracket, Tonneau Cover Holder, Rh. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama

 

[Tgreezy03]

Sweet thanks

 

[phattyduck]

Sweet thanks

That's not a factory installed part (though it may have been dealer installed). I'd go with whatever the modern option is that looks good to you, and replace the other side at the same time.

-Charlie

 

[brokedownwallet]

Low Idle, Nosediving RPM when clutching in

2000 SR5 MT

Just replaced spark plugs and coils which fixed a misfire accompanied by rough idle. It had fluctuating rpms and a low idle (~500rpm), neither of which have disappeared even though it has a normal idle at initial startup and the idle will occasionally go back to normal at around 700rpm. Really just noticing it affect drivability though.

RPMs dive when engaging 1st even with foot on the throttle as if it's losing power and there's lurches with acceleration even though I'm smooth coming off the clutch and giving it gas. Noticeably different than last week before issues appeared. When I'm accelerating and getting up to speed, the instant I clutch in and let off the throttle I'm getting rpms nosediving all the way to 400-500 a lot faster than they normally fall before this presented.

What's been done:

No codes after the misfire, just the evap code I'm planning on chasing later on.

TPS looks good, battery & alternator tested good. Throttle body and MAF cleaned

Upcoming changes I was going to make anyways but am expediting in hopes they fix this:

Check & Clean IAC valve (don't think this is it since idle RPM changes with AC turning on and off as they should, will get multimeter to test regardless. Also sprayed some throttle body cleaner down the little hole for it when cleaning throttle body.)

Aftermarket air intake from previous owner (spectre) will be replaced with stock one later this week.

New PCV valve and grommet

New Fuel Filter

Anything else I might be missing here? Is this possibly symptomatic of a vacuum leak? Not sure what else could be causing this.

 

[phattyduck]

The MT trucks have a throttle opener/dashpot on the back/bottom of the throttle body that might have some effect here (it basically holds the throttle open a bit when you quickly lift off the throttle). There may be something happening there.

Does the engine RPM change at all if you are stopped in neutral and press the clutch?

-Charlie