The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[phattyduck]

I have a 2001 2wd and want to grease the driveshaft for my first time. It's been at least 25k miles since last done. That's when I started doing my own oil changes and I'm hoping the oil change place was doing it once in a while before that.
The Toyota manual I have only mentions 4wd, but says use moly grease on slide yoke and double cardan joint. And regular Lithium base on spiders. Do I even have spiders? If so, there's no zerks.
I've already bought moly grease and am hoping you'll tell me I can just use that on both of these fittings.
In the pics the zerks are pointing upward out of view, but I'm pointing to the equivalent spot on the other side. There's only 1 zerk at front, 1 at back.

-What are these joints technically called?
-Is moly grease appropriate?
-Approx how many pumps at each and same for both?
-Or pump til I see or hear grease coming out?

The factory 2WD rear driveshaft has non-greaseable u-joints. The trans output is a slip-yoke, so there is no slip-yoke in the driveshaft. It is completely different than the 4WD rear drive (both in length and style). There are no factory grease points on the 2WD chassis.

Since it sounds like you have either a full replacement or replaced joints on your rear driveshaft, just pump in some grease until you see the old grease come out on the joint.

If you are getting vibrations, then there is more to do (often a complete replacement shaft, since the OEM shaft has a rubber isolator that wears out with time - but the PO may have already done that for you...).

-Charlie

 

[kkahkes]

All power windows stopped working after driver lock cylinder replacement.

1999 Limited.

Had someone try to break into my car, broke the key cylinder. After i got the door panel off and back on, the driver side master window switch, lock switch and all power window switches stopped working, but the power Mirrors work fine. My rear hatch window switch also stopped working. None of the window switches are working throughout the car also.

The passenger side power lock switch IS working however. I tested pulling out the associated 30A fuse, and confirmed that the passenger door lock switch stopped working and started again after putting fuse in.

I went back to disconnect and re connect all the wiring and still nothing.

I am guessing i must have caused some issue when disconnecting the wiring harness when taking off the door panel?


Am i missing some sort of reset before it should be working?

Is the next step trying to test each wire inside the plastic harness ends with a multimeter? Is there a tutorial for this?

Thanks

 

[Psychlops]

The factory 2WD rear driveshaft has non-greaseable u-joints. The trans output is a slip-yoke, so there is no slip-yoke in the driveshaft. It is completely different than the 4WD rear drive (both in length and style). There are no factory grease points on the 2WD chassis.

Since it sounds like you have either a full replacement or replaced joints on your rear driveshaft, just pump in some grease until you see the old grease come out on the joint.

If you are getting vibrations, then there is more to do (often a complete replacement shaft, since the OEM shaft has a rubber isolator that wears out with time - but the PO may have already done that.
-Charlie

Thanks for the answers. Just got it greased up.
That's interesting about factory 2wd driveshaft not having grease fittings. I had one u-joint replaced at 130k miles. I guess the PO did the other one or the whole shaft. I bought it at 50k miles.

 

[InsuranceBroker]

Did the Crank and Cam Sensor.....Still no start. still not getting fuel. ECU is ordered, My frustration may lead me to setting it ablaze, however, its too close to my damn house and wont start!!!

 

[Tunnelrat5]

ABS problem

I have an 01 limited. The ABS fuse had blown in fuse box in engine bay. I ordered new fuse and took fuse holder out to get to the bolts that secure the fuse. Replaced fuse and reconnected battery and when I did the truck came alive with no keys in ignition. Daytime running lights on, dash assembly lit up and no keys in ignition. All I did was replace ABS fuse. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated!

 

[Lassy]

Steering Rack Leak

I've got a leak from both boots on my steering rack. 00' 4WD LMTD. The boots are definitely full of liquid, but it's not transmission fluid leaking out. It looks like oil to me. No leaks coming from up above either. Anyone have this issue? How long will my steering rack last?

 

[bradyabbt]

One day I was driving home and I reached a red light, all of the sudden my 4runner shut off. It immediately cranked back up and I was able to pull into a gas station parking lot where it shut off again. When I went to crank it back up it was lethargic. I let it sit for 1-2 minutes and it cranked back up, got a little bit further down the road until I had to repeat the same steps. When I got it back home I smelled burnt rubber. I measured the output on my battery and it was 12.4v with the car on and off. So I immediately went and changed the alternator. I just finished putting it back on and tested my battery output with the car on. It read 13.4v, all was well so I thought. I went on a test drive and all was well until I went to pull back into my house and it shut off again. I had to let it sit for 1-2 mins before it turned back on. Headlights remained on, dash lights were on. Not sure what to make of it. It is a new project car and it is the 3.4 5VZ-FE. I need to replace the intake boot because the previous owner had it duck taped, my first thought is that it is something to do with belt slippage. I got the code P0420 as well when I pulled the codes off. Assuming that it was related to the mass airflow sensor in the intake boot. I need as much help as I can get. Thanks

 

[phattyduck]

I've got a leak from both boots on my steering rack. 00' 4WD LMTD. The boots are definitely full of liquid, but it's not transmission fluid leaking out. It looks like oil to me. No leaks coming from up above either. Anyone have this issue? How long will my steering rack last?

The PS fluid IS transmission fluid (Dex III or higher ATF). It could either be old and brown or the previous owner used the wrong fluid, both of which would contribute to the leaking you are seeing. Replace the rack unless you feel like you can rebuild it yourself...

-Charlie

 

[ACFloyd12]

Leveling Kit Questions

Hey everyone, I just installed a new 3-inch suspension lift (struts & springs & shocks) in my 3rd gen. I like it, but I want to raise the front end a little more with a leveling kit because it's still not high enough for my liking.

Seems like everything I look for is the entire suspension kit with shocks and springs which I obviously do not need.

I can't find where to get what I need. Can anyone point me in the right direction with a trusted brand?

 

[phattyduck]

Hey everyone, I just installed a new 3-inch suspension lift (struts & springs & shocks) in my 3rd gen. I like it, but I want to raise the front end a little more with a leveling kit because it's still not high enough for my liking.

Seems like everything I look for is the entire suspension kit with shocks and springs which I obviously do not need.

I can't find where to get what I need. Can anyone point me in the right direction with a trusted brand?

3" is already a LOT for a stock geometry front end. You can do a small (really small, please!) top plate spacer. Wheeler's Offroad has a few options.

Just keep in mind that you have much WORSE performance with a 3" lift than you would with a 2-2.5" lift that keeps more droop travel in the front.

-Charlie

 

[Sonny.Deez]

Water pump / timing belt replacement problem

Hey guys… I have a new account so I can’t make a new thread yet keep trying… but will post this here instead I guess…

I'm in the middle of replacing my timing belt / water pump on my 02 4Runner and just came across a possible issue. Was having trouble getting the nut off of the crankshaft pulley so I lodged the breaker bar up against the frame and bumped the starter to free it.
THEN after I freed the nut I bumped the starter once more to try to spin the pulleys to get the timing mark closer to where I needed it. Did I screw something up doing this? I went to manually spin the pulleys the rest of the way around with the breaker bar (see pic above) and got to a point where I really would have to force it to keep turning.
If it even would keep turning, almost didn't seem like it would. I know there's always pressure every so often while spinning but it wasn't just that.
I got the timing marks back to top dead center by spinning back counter clockwise but something is different ..that intermittent pressure you get while turning the pulleys is occurring right at top dead center... and don't think it was before? Could be wrong but don't think so.
Hope I didn't screw something up, if anybody has any suggestions or info l'd really appreciate, don't want to move forwards untill I figure this out.

Here’s a link to the Reddit thread I posted for a little more info—

https://www.reddit.com/r/4Runner/s/Pigd49lx8Z

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm dealing with a very squeaky clutch pedal assembly that only wants to squeak when it's below 50*F. When I got my manual 4Runner the first winter the clutch pedal squeaked so I removed the weird factory coil spring that only 4Runners use and replaced it with the linear spring for Tacoma's. While I was there I replaced the pivot bushings and applied a light coating of grease to the pivots. The problem emerged again the next winter so I replaced the master cylinder with OEM when I replaced the transmission in Feb 2023. Again the problem seemed solved, but it was back again next winter again. I have eliminated the clutch release fork/pivot ball and slave cylinder so that leaves the pedal assembly/firewall pass through/master cylinder. Anyone dealt with this specific squeak?

 

[mpeezy]

I'm dealing with a very squeaky clutch pedal assembly that only wants to squeak when it's below 50*F. When I got my manual 4Runner the first winter the clutch pedal squeaked so I removed the weird factory coil spring that only 4Runners use and replaced it with the linear spring for Tacoma's. While I was there I replaced the pivot bushings and applied a light coating of grease to the pivots. The problem emerged again the next winter so I replaced the master cylinder with OEM when I replaced the transmission in Feb 2023. Again the problem seemed solved, but it was back again next winter again. I have eliminated the clutch release fork/pivot ball and slave cylinder so that leaves the pedal assembly/firewall pass through/master cylinder. Anyone dealt with this specific squeak?

interestingly, i'm facing the same squeak. i haven't done any diagnosing etc -- its vert intermittent, i've found its only at the top third/half of the pedal travel, is that the same for you? it hasn't appeared to be temp-related for me

 

[Stucco17]

One day I was driving home and I reached a red light, all of the sudden my 4runner shut off. It immediately cranked back up and I was able to pull into a gas station parking lot where it shut off again. When I went to crank it back up it was lethargic. I let it sit for 1-2 minutes and it cranked back up, got a little bit further down the road until I had to repeat the same steps. When I got it back home I smelled burnt rubber. I measured the output on my battery and it was 12.4v with the car on and off. So I immediately went and changed the alternator. I just finished putting it back on and tested my battery output with the car on. It read 13.4v, all was well so I thought. I went on a test drive and all was well until I went to pull back into my house and it shut off again. I had to let it sit for 1-2 mins before it turned back on. Headlights remained on, dash lights were on. Not sure what to make of it. It is a new project car and it is the 3.4 5VZ-FE. I need to replace the intake boot because the previous owner had it duck taped, my first thought is that it is something to do with belt slippage. I got the code P0420 as well when I pulled the codes off. Assuming that it was related to the mass airflow sensor in the intake boot. I need as much help as I can get. Thanks

Not sure if you've isolated the problem yet, but some simple checks you can do is:
1) Make sure it got some gas in it
2) Check the cam and the crankshaft position sensor
3) Check the O2 sensors

Use a flashlight and follow the wiring from the battery, alternator and look for any caked mud, frayed wires or disconnections (Especially grounds)
Check the Mass airflow sensor & replace the boot asap too

I had similar shut off or no start problems and each of those reasons was a cause once. Did you notice if this happens at high speeds/high RPMS, or if you drive on low fuel?

 

[Stucco17]

Hey guys… I have a new account so I can’t make a new thread yet keep trying… but will post this here instead I guess…

I'm in the middle of replacing my timing belt / water pump on my 02 4Runner and just came across a possible issue. Was having trouble getting the nut off of the crankshaft pulley so I lodged the breaker bar up against the frame and bumped the starter to free it.
THEN after I freed the nut I bumped the starter once more to try to spin the pulleys to get the timing mark closer to where I needed it. Did I screw something up doing this? I went to manually spin the pulleys the rest of the way around with the breaker bar (see pic above) and got to a point where I really would have to force it to keep turning.
If it even would keep turning, almost didn't seem like it would. I know there's always pressure every so often while spinning but it wasn't just that.
I got the timing marks back to top dead center by spinning back counter clockwise but something is different ..that intermittent pressure you get while turning the pulleys is occurring right at top dead center... and don't think it was before? Could be wrong but don't think so.
Hope I didn't screw something up, if anybody has any suggestions or info l'd really appreciate, don't want to move forwards untill I figure this out.

Here’s a link to the Reddit thread I posted for a little more info—

https://www.reddit.com/r/4Runner/s/Pigd49lx8Z

I'm no expert but if you're comfortable doing a water pump/timing belt job, maybe drop the oil pan and look inside to see if there has been any damage done to crankshaft or other components, just to rule it out if anything. Check to see if you can rotate the crankshaft clockwise at all or if it binds.

 

[Stucco17]

I'm pretty new here and the forum wont let me start a thread due to my new account status.
I hear a loud sound coming from the inside of the transmission pan of my 99 T4R 2WD. It only happens when shifting into Reverse and it also has a sort of chattering sound you can hear from the drivers seat.
This sound only happens when I have warmed up the vehicle and then driven it a couple miles and then park it back home to check.

I checked my AtF level while the engine was running its right at the Full line for Hot, the fluid itself is in good condition have added some new to the old (Would say 4ts new, 8 qts old), no shaving just smudge on the pan magnets, the transmission seems to be in overall good shape. Maybe the sound is normal but I'm just concerned cuz it ONLY makes those noises when shifting to Reverse.

I cant post the video but heres the link to it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8ZOIRWi9aQ

Should mention its mostly sat around for 6 months but has been driven 3-5x and the engine has been run 12+ times within that timeframe and the problem only recently showed up a week ago

 

[Bad Luck]

interestingly, i'm facing the same squeak. i haven't done any diagnosing etc -- its vert intermittent, i've found its only at the top third/half of the pedal travel, is that the same for you? it hasn't appeared to be temp-related for me

Most of the time the squeak is the entire stroke, but occasionally it's the bottom or top half. I removed the spring to make sure that wasn't causing issues. My next step is to remove the master cylinder and see if the squeak is still present.

 

[Kauaiboy86]

2002 Toyota 4runner

Hi
Can anyone tell me what model years is a 2002 4Runner roof rack cross bars compatible with?

 

[phattyduck]

Hi
Can anyone tell me what model years is a 2002 4Runner roof rack cross bars compatible with?

'96-'02 are all compatible for roof rack parts.

-Charlie

 

[srm2254]

Help!

Please help me identify the names of these parts. I dont need to know what they are for, i just need to replace them. Especially the clips that are on the engine. please help.