The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[phattyduck]

I have a 1999 with the 5vz-fe that I recently threw a turbo on, the thought process was that you could supercharge these motors without turning, but honestly it runs like shit. I'm running about 4 lbs of boost. After a few weeks of flying blind I put in a wideband and any time I let off the throttle the afr drops to a 10. Then shortly after it stalls. I know the only thing that will fix the problem is going to a standalone, but I'm looking for a bandaid to put on this issue until I can afford it

Tighten up your blow off valve and/or figure out where the air is escaping otherwise...

You will definitely need a good tuning solution, whether that is a piggyback or a standalone. The stock ECU likes to stay closed loop (and stoichiometric AFRs) and also ignores the knock sensors below 3k rpm - both of which are BAD for boosted applications.

-Charlie

 

[ProKronic]

Hello Everyone . I recently got a 99 2wd that I’m converting to 4wd . I wasn’t able to find a j shift trans in my town . But I did end up getting a whole crashed 96 limited . Could anybody help me out with the wiring for the transfer-case and front diff actuators. I have all the wiring and ecu’s from the 96 limited . I would like to keep it as simple as possible and factory as possible . I don’t mind using a switch to engage them if I need to .. thanks in advance ..

 

[I❤️4runners]

Premature ware on timing belt

Hi all, looking for a little bit of guidance on something. My timing belt recently broke on my 3rd gen and upon tearing into it and removing the old belt I discovered the inside edge of the belt was severely worn and frayed but only on about 30% of the belts edge...the rest appeared unscathed. I also noticed some ware marks on the black metal plate behind the cam pulleys that the belt rides next to. In my mind this tells me that something is off kilter and the belt isn't running perfectly straight. I replaced this belt along with the water pump and all that crap about 20,000 miles ago so the belt should still have had a lot of life left in it. Right now I'm just assuming that the last time I installed the timing belt I didn't seat it properly and it just always rubbed slightly until it finally gave up the ghost. I'm replacing the belt and belt tensioner and leaving everything else alone as it's all still relatively new.

If anyone has experienced this or has any thoughts on this I'd appreciate hearing them! Not really looking to have timing belt replacement a 20K mile service thing! lol. Thanks!

 

[phattyduck]

Hello Everyone . I recently got a 99 2wd that I’m converting to 4wd . I wasn’t able to find a j shift trans in my town . But I did end up getting a whole crashed 96 limited . Could anybody help me out with the wiring for the transfer-case and front diff actuators. I have all the wiring and ecu’s from the 96 limited . I would like to keep it as simple as possible and factory as possible . I don’t mind using a switch to engage them if I need to .. thanks in advance ..

Wiring, even for the simpler push-button but not multi-mode transfer case does wind its way through the dash. There are also some challenges because there was never a push-button case for '99+ (just the full multi-mode) - wiring connectors, etc. don't directly match in many cases.

Download the diagrams of the Toyota TIS system (get a 2-day membership...) and start studying.

I'd really suggest finding a way to do j-shift - then its about 6 wires. Push-button is a lot more wiring...

-Charlie

 

[phattyduck]

If anyone has experienced this or has any thoughts on this I'd appreciate hearing them! Not really looking to have timing belt replacement a 20K mile service thing! lol. Thanks!

What brand/source was the replacement 20k miles ago? 20k sounds about right for knock-off stuff...

But, it also does sound like maybe you are missing a spacer or have something bolted on wrong. The belt should be pretty well constrained and not wear the edges in a correctly running system.

-Charlie

 

[I❤️4runners]

What brand/source was the replacement 20k miles ago? 20k sounds about right for knock-off stuff...

But, it also does sound like maybe you are missing a spacer or have something bolted on wrong. The belt should be pretty well constrained and not wear the edges in a correctly running system.

-Charlie

Honestly, I'm not totally sure what brand it is. It came with in a full 100k mile service kit that I bought for about $500 that included water pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, thermostat, and all that. The water pump was supposed to be Toyota brand. I'm replacing it with an OEM genuine Toyota belt and tensioner.

The only spot where I think the tolerances could be slightly off is the tensioner pulley. It seems to me that it sits back ever so slightly closer to the block than it should. There is a small washer/spacer in between the block and where the tensioner bolts but I'm wondering if I put the wrong washer in last time is was in there. Maybe this is a dumb question but does anyone know what the thickness of that spacer is supposed to be? Thanks!

 

[I❤️4runners]

Have another question for all you seasoned 3rd gen owners out there...I got my timing belt issue sorted by the way.

I need to get some new rear coil spring insulators for my 4Runner and I'm having trouble finding some that say they fit a '96 which is what mine is. Whenever I search for them I get this part number (48257-35010) which says it's for a '95. Do any of you think that the coil spring insulator from a '95 will fit a '96? ChatGTP says it will but I thought I'd check with you guys too. Thanks!

 

[phattyduck]

Have another question for all you seasoned 3rd gen owners out there...I got my timing belt issue sorted by the way.

I need to get some new rear coil spring insulators for my 4Runner and I'm having trouble finding some that say they fit a '96 which is what mine is. Whenever I search for them I get this part number (48257-35010) which says it's for a '95. Do any of you think that the coil spring insulator from a '95 will fit a '96? ChatGTP says it will but I thought I'd check with you guys too. Thanks!

Early 3rd gens had different upper isolators than the later years - but were supposed to be upgraded by a recall... People call them the 'cone bumper' and they are basically a soft overload spring that engages before the frame mounted bump stops. There is no lower isolator.

-Charlie

 

[BeachinBill]

Ouch

Haven’t seen many post about frames so figured I’d try here before making new thread. Got in a fender bender last week and it smushed my front bumper back to the main frame.

Before I get estimate on fixing hoping the expert here can weigh in. Took off bumper to get better view. What’s the damage?

 

[BeachinBill]

Pics for reference. Thanks in advance.

 

[chococat]

I need ac help on my 1996 4Runner

I cant post new threads but I see this thread might be for questions. My clutch engages when fed 12v, so I think my magnetic clutch relay might be bad (green light is on when using ac). I found it behind my glovebox, how can I test it?

 

[dmppdx]

Pics for reference. Thanks in advance.

Looks like the parts that bolt on need replaced, and one or two of the tabs on the side is bent, but should be able to be bent back with a little heat from a welding torch. Is the rest of it straight?

 

[alia176]

I cant post new threads but I see this thread might be for questions. My clutch engages when fed 12v, so I think my magnetic clutch relay might be bad (green light is on when using ac). I found it behind my glovebox, how can I test it?

Did you physically take a long wire from the battery POS terminal to the wire on the clutch coil? If so, did you hear a click?

I'd disconnect the connector at your a/c compressor before you do this, but you knew that already I'm sure.

If the answer is yes, then you can suspect the clutch relay. See if you can borrow another relay from the fuse box and swap it out to see if the clutch coil now activates like normal.

 

[alia176]

Pics for reference. Thanks in advance.

Ouch that sucks. Looks like one or both of your frame horns (the part that sticks out from your frame) are bent. Perhaps the second bumper that lives inside the main chrome bumper may also be bent.

You may want to start a new thread with much better pictures with good lighting showing all the damages that took place. Also, show us how the chrome bumper looks now. Everything is fixable, as long as you have the time, ability and money.

 

[phattyduck]

That's more than a fender bender there... but it looks like the crush cans did some good work. It is really hard to tell from the pics, but this looks fixable if you can get the frame back in line. Any damage above the bumper on the painted body panels?

You'll want to do work yourself as much as possible here - most of the rest is sourcing parts bolting stuff back on...

-Charlie

 

[Mark_BC]

Pics for reference. Thanks in advance.

Looks like a good opportunity for an aftermarket bumper.

 

[Tbone541]

Hello all, I’m in the final stages of refurbing the engine on my 97 3.4 4Runner. I have to connect these last two connections to the wiring harness, make sure my grounds are in proper place and fill with fluids. I know the bigger square connector is the crank sensor… can someone please tell me what the small 1 wire, round connection goes to?

 

[phattyduck]

Hello all, I’m in the final stages of refurbing the engine on my 97 3.4 4Runner. I have to connect these last two connections to the wiring harness, make sure my grounds are in proper place and fill with fluids. I know the bigger square connector is the crank sensor… can someone please tell me what the small 1 wire, round connection goes to?

Oil pressure switch. Below the alternator, in front of the oil filter, attached to the block.

-Charlie

 

[Tbone541]

Hello all, just finishing up refurbing my 97 4Runner 3.4. Now that I have all of my connections figured out, I am troubleshooting getting it to fire up. Currently cranks but won’t start with no codes. I’m fairly certain there is air in the fuel line that I’m trying to bleed out. My issue now though is that that flare fitting got mangled when I was initially disconnecting it and knew I was going to have to fix it eventually, possibly with quick connects. I went ahead and connected the mangled one again just to get an initial start/see if I had any other more pressing issues. Now that I’ve loosened it again to bleed the air and got some fuel moving, I have a slow drip even when tightened back down all the way. So now my hand is forced, I have to fix this to move forward. My question is… does anyone have recommendation on best course of action? I can go get another flare fitting and replace w what’s there(I do have a flare tool)… or I could replace with a quick connect.. which way is easier and which quick connect set up would be best if that’s the route i choose?



Video of start attempt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iPjTDekvQy-84au8VrNublf384dqdpAl/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[phattyduck]

I’m fairly certain there is air in the fuel line that I’m trying to bleed out.

While there is no "prime" function on the 4Runner (or most/all Toyotas of that era), the fuel system is a return-type - which means fuel is cycling back to the tank whenever the fuel pump is running (cranking or while the engine is running). If you have 100% dry fuel injectors, it takes about 10-15 seconds of cranking to fill them up with fuel. The rails and lines fill up faster than that. No 'air' can get stuck in the lines.

You have an issue elsewhere.

-Charlie