The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Oldmannewcar]

After I changed spark plugs and wires. My 3rd gen began having a loud tick. The tick would only begin after 30 seconds of steady idling? It’s in back driver side area? I always hear injector tick but this is 2x louder and only starts after long idle doesn’t change when hot or cold. No misfire or loss of power? I can drive it 30 minutes get out and nothing but wait 1-2mins it’s back?
Any ideas?

 

[phattyduck]

After I changed spark plugs and wires. My 3rd gen began having a loud tick. The tick would only begin after 30 seconds of steady idling? It’s in back driver side area? I always hear injector tick but this is 2x louder and only starts after long idle doesn’t change when hot or cold. No misfire or loss of power? I can drive it 30 minutes get out and nothing but wait 1-2mins it’s back?
Any ideas?

Sounds like evap solenoids - assuming you have a '96-'00 model... Check each by hand (touch) to see if the click matches one of them.

-Charlie

 

[Oldmannewcar]

That’s exactly what it was thanks for the help!

 

[bullshawrk]

Anybody here can help out a fellow 2000 4runner with manual windows? I need to replace them but I have no way of getting this replacement part. Its only my driver side of course.

 

[Twisted Sid]

I know 4runners with manual windows are pretty rare so, maybe tacoma regulators would work. There are some available on rockauto for cheap for tacomas

 

[Spiker Engineering]

The crank arm is supposedly available - 69260-89104-B1 Genuine Toyota Part)

 

[3bears]

reset ecm?

So I read on another forum about a guy who disconnects both battery cables from battery, touches them together for a few seconds and it resets the ECM.
Have not heard of that b4 ? Thoughts ?

 

[spartacus]

QUOTE=3bears;3899614]So I read on another forum about a guy who disconnects both battery cables from battery, touches them together for a few seconds and it resets the ECM.
Have not heard of that b4 ? Thoughts ?[/QUOTE]

Touching the battery cables together for a few minutes discharges the ecm and resets it to factory settings. I have only disconnected the battery to deactivate the codes before.

 

[3bears]

QUOTE=3bears;3899614]So I read on another forum about a guy who disconnects both battery cables from battery, touches them together for a few seconds and it resets the ECM.
Have not heard of that b4 ? Thoughts ?

Touching the battery cables together for a few minutes discharges the ecm and resets it to factory settings. I have only disconnected the battery to deactivate the codes before.[/QUOTE]


thats all I have done too

 

[bullshawrk]

I know 4runners with manual windows are pretty rare so, maybe tacoma regulators would work. There are some available on rockauto for cheap for tacomas

The crank arm is supposedly available - 69260-89104-B1 Genuine Toyota Part)

I wanted factory couldnt find any on ebay. Ended up got some generic one at autozone that worked and found a hand crank at a junky yard off a old 4runner to keep it factory crank. Surprised we even found a hand crank lol

 

[phattyduck]

So I read on another forum about a guy who disconnects both battery cables from battery, touches them together for a few seconds and it resets the ECM.
Have not heard of that b4 ? Thoughts ?

You can just press the brake pedal to do the same thing - and that is protected by fuses, etc... Or just wait a while (say, if you are doing other work on the truck).

-Charlie

 

[Vincent2]

Since the thread title says "All Questions Allowed" I'm guess this is the right place.

Looking for input from 3rd gen owners. I'm in the market for a vehicle and I've been considering a 4runner (my dad had a 1st gen when I was a kid). I've discovered that they're crazy expensive, but I found a 2wd, 3rd gen (1999), with a 4-cyl engine (3rz?), and a manual transmission that might be in my price range.

Anyone willing to offer opinions on that combination? How capable is this 4cyl engine (This would be my daily driver)? Is a 2wd 4runner worth having? Anyone know of any issues with that manual transmission?

Thanks ahead of time for any input!

EDIT: Forgot to add, it's pretty low mileage compared to everything else I'm seeing (~140,000).

 

[phattyduck]

Since the thread title says "All Questions Allowed" I'm guess this is the right place.

Looking for input from 3rd gen owners. I'm in the market for a vehicle and I've been considering a 4runner (my dad had a 1st gen when I was a kid). I've discovered that they're crazy expensive, but I found a 2wd, 3rd gen (1999), with a 4-cyl engine (3rz?), and a manual transmission that might be in my price range.

Anyone willing to offer opinions on that combination? How capable is this 4cyl engine (This would be my daily driver)? Is a 2wd 4runner worth having? Anyone know of any issues with that manual transmission?

Thanks ahead of time for any input!

EDIT: Forgot to add, it's pretty low mileage compared to everything else I'm seeing (~140,000).

The 3rz is a good engine (in the reliability sense), though not powerful. The MT is fine with it too. The big "BUT" here is that you are getting a 2WD - if you want it for the size, reliability and utility, it will be good. If you need it for anything 4WD-related (off road, poor weather) it will be lacking.

A lot more Tacomas had the 2rz/3rz, so you will find a lot more engine-specific information on Tacoma forums.

-Charlie

 

[Vincent2]

The 3rz is a good engine (in the reliability sense), though not powerful. The MT is fine with it too. The big "BUT" here is that you are getting a 2WD - if you want it for the size, reliability and utility, it will be good. If you need it for anything 4WD-related (off road, poor weather) it will be lacking.

A lot more Tacomas had the 2rz/3rz, so you will find a lot more engine-specific information on Tacoma forums.

-Charlie

Yeah, my big reservation about it is the fact that it's 2wd. I'm probably gonna end up passing on this one. It's a shame, since almost everything I see for even a remotely reasonable price has well over 200k miles on it. I get that these things can keep going for a long time, but I'm still shocked at how much people will pay for them with mileage that high.

 

[3bears]

Yeah, my big reservation about it is the fact that it's 2wd. I'm probably gonna end up passing on this one. It's a shame, since almost everything I see for even a remotely reasonable price has well over 200k miles on it. I get that these things can keep going for a long time, but I'm still shocked at how much people will pay for them with mileage that high.

to me if the rig is in good shape and maintained then they can be worth the money for the 4wd. I have had 3 of them and all over 200k, current one at 256

 

[gtx13]

New user so I can't post a thread, but wondering if anyone has had issues trying to pull the rear axleshaft off the axle housing? Specifically the bearing case won't detach away from the axle housing with all 4 nuts removed. The axleshaft is also loose, and it's clearly been leaking diff fluid, so I'm worried the reason I can't remove it is due to internal damage. I've tried PB blaster, heat, pounding the backing plate to no avail. I pulled two axleshafts off a junkyard 4Runner and they came off easy peasy...

 

[walkercars2]

Good to know there’s a forum for all the 3rd gen fam!

 

[MartinDa]

Timing Belt Change

Ran into a major snag during my timing belt change. I aligned the engine and put the belt on in the order that FSM recommends. However, in order to get the belt on, it leaves my LH camshaft off by just *this* much. The pulley now aligns with the top of the arrow on the timing cover rather than the bottom, maybe 1mm of difference. I've really tried to get it to align perfectly. My best effort was to put one breaker bar on the crank bolt to hold it in place, while I put the other bar on the cam pulley to pull it back. This just made the belt slip out of the pulley teeth, so now I'm pretty positive I can't get any more tension out of the belt. Part of me is ready to be convinced that this is aligned, but I want to do this job correctly. Any input is appreciated, thank you!

Photo of camshaft pulley:

https://imgur.com/a/I5TaTwj

 

[phattyduck]

Ran into a major snag during my timing belt change.

Not a snag at all. You are fine. It is totally normal on every timing belt engine I have done (that has at least 2 cams...) that they are not *perfectly* aligned. As long as it is close (much closer than 1 tooth off), it is correct.

Do a couple crank rotations to make sure all three (crank + cams) are aligned after and button it all up.

-Charlie

 

[MartinDa]

Not a snag at all. You are fine. It is totally normal on every timing belt engine I have done (that has at least 2 cams...) that they are not *perfectly* aligned. As long as it is close (much closer than 1 tooth off), it is correct.

Do a couple crank rotations to make sure all three (crank + cams) are aligned after and button it all up.

-Charlie

Well an extra afternoon went into making sure they were, lol. Couldn’t be too sure. Cranked it and everything lined up perfect. Thanks for the help!