"the alpine 1" dash component review"

rigtec

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"The Alpine 1" dash component review"

HAPPY THANKSGIVING WEEK-END!

Hi tech-team,

For sometime now I've been interested in replacing the "Genuine Mickey Mouse Brand" door and dash speakers in my 'cherished' 2012 4Runner limited. One reason it's been put off for so long is because I've been working on the audio system's low-end frequency components first http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/174196-got-bass.html ; I find that things go much smoother if I concentrate on the low-end (20hz to 150hz), then the low-mid/midrange (150hz to 2,500), then Mid-High/High (2500hz to 20,000hz) as indivuals.

The other reason it was taking so long is because frankly', there's so many aftermarket speakers to choose from but no real way to sound test 'apples to apples' before you buy! Then there's the issue of speaker fitment; not too many exact fitting replacement aftermarket speakers for the 4Runner... and so component choosing becomes confusing!!! So I'm posting the ones that I installed so you can see just what's involved in getting them installed. To begin... These speakers have a 1 inch diameter x 3/4" depth but were designed to be adapted to our 3 inch diameter baffle cut-outs. They are also built to be versatile enough (using the hardware kit) to be 'Flat mounted' almost anywhere; even on a flat surface on the dash or pillars. This was in part, my initial interest in these; I've seen some real speaker installation nightmares regarding speaker mods and the last thing I ever want to do is to butcher any part of the truck to where it's irreversibly damaged!

I wasn't sure if there would be a substantial enough difference in sound quality (SQ) to justify the time and the expense of this small speaker project. When I added the subs to this sound system, I knew there'd be a 'HUGE' change to the audio system's 'anemic sounding' bass fundamentals but now I was unsure and somewhat skeptical about this tweeter mod. Upon looking in the box, however, I was really impressed with the build quality of the new Alpine drivers and cross-over network components; quite different than the flimsy looking parts that I removed from the dash! The new 'Alpine SPS-110tw' are a class act right out of the box! They were very easy to install; even without any data sheet or instruction booklet. At first glance the unlabeled plastic hardware looks like a scene from the children's story "Island of the misfit toys".



Upon further inspection, it becomes crystal clear that the people at 'Alpine Electronics' know something about developing speaker mounting hardware to support their car audio products. Before long I had already located the 'flange-set' that would adapt/convert Toyota's three inch tweeter mounting bracket into one that would be a permanent flange used to mount our new 1 inch tweeter in it's dash position baffle.

UNDER-SIDE


TOP-SIDE


The thing I like the most about the assortment of plastic flanges supplied by Alpine is there was no need to cut, drill, bevel, or alter any of the existing flanged parts in the dash so the install is completely reversible! I also liked the idea of using Nylon ties to secure the small, light-weight drivers to the metal flange!

Another thing that I consider to be important is Fitment! I did some searching around over the last couple of months for just 'The Right Speaker' but none seemed to offer a 'Complete set' of Dash-N-Door speakers for our 4Runners with the promise of an exact fit. So I decided to start off with the dash; I'll deal with the front and rear doors at a later time... "Actually I already have my eye on a midrange door speaker from 'Alpine' that claims to be a "Direct Fitting" component for our doors"... so we'll see!

"THE O.E.M. STANDARD"


Seriously: A speaker like this one can be found for less than $5.00 on ebay; ...even cheaper when bought in bulk! "Shame on you Toyota!"







A LOOK AT THE ALPINE SPS-110TW DASH COMPONENT DRIVERS






FYI: The true test of any speaker or audio component is (of coarse) your ears! You could spend thousands of dollars on what people consider to be 'THE BEST' equipment that money can buy... But if it don't sound good to you... the price tag don't mean a dam bit-a-S#*!

The good news is that these SPS-110's sound far more professional than the stock unit! They're louder, they're brighter, more musical, they have a much W-I-D-E-R bandwidth, and the cost... only $50.00 bucks a pair on Amazon; likely to cost triple that on Crutchfield or Alpine.com! In conclusion: I really like the Alpine SPS-110TW. It's an all around winning driver with a wide bandwidth and will handle plenty of power from the amp. If high sensitivity, wide frequency range, NO FUSS installation, and low cost are in your agenda, then giving these a look might be in your best interest... definitely a FIVE STAR investment!

PS: A few days ago I wrote up a detailed installation guide "The proper installation and wiring of your new 'aftermarket' Dash and Door speaker component" Here: got bass #103-107



'Best to you!'
 
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IMPORTANT:

I'm sure that I mentioned (at least a few times) how very high on my list of priorities that I place the relevant data-sheet. As a practice, I'll usually try to post a link to where I'm getting my information or, I'll just upload the document(s) via 'Photobucket', make the necessary notations on the original print, then 'copy/paste' the text document; which is now converted to an image or photo document. At the time that I did the 'tweeter install' I could not find a spec-sheet (or wiring diagram) that represented the 'Alpine SPS-110TW'; even Alpine didn't provide their own product paperwork in the box! So I'm providing Alpine's data sheet (which I found available online) here for possible future reference!

FEATURES
Tweeter Type: 1" Wide-Range Silk Dome
Voice Coil Type: Large Aluminum Voice Coil Bobbin
Magnet Material: Neodymium Magnet
Swivel Application: Swivel Application
Mounting Design: Shallow Mounting Design
Application Type: External/Swivel Tweeter Mounting Kit
Crossover Network
Grade: In-line 2nd order Network Design

SPECIFICATIONS
Power Handling
Peak Power: 300 Watts
RMS Power: 100 Watts

Dimensions:
Tweeter Mounting Diameter: 2" (5.1cm)
Tweeter Mounting Depth: 3/4" (1.8cm)

General
Frequency Range: 1kHz - 22kHz
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Sensitivity: 88dB SPL (1W@1m)

Cheers!
 
And just an fyi, the mounting thing is called a "starfish" mount, my Infinity 10.9t Kappas had the same thing. Looks like several of the mid to upper range brands use the starfish to mount their tweets, super-easy to find some combination that will work.

I opted for ABS plastic plates, custom-fit to the stock metal brackets, then mounting the starfish directly in the middle of it.
 
"Tweeter - Type S - 100 RMS" - Not sure I believe those specs Alpine is providing. MAYBE the Type R but Type S?????????

Why: what would be a 'reasonable' incentive for Alpine u.s.a. to publish false data on their own reputable, well established, and respected website?? "Just curious..."
 
Why: what would be a 'reasonable' incentive for Alpine u.s.a. to publish false data on their own reputable, well established, and respected website?? "Just curious..."

None that I can think of. It's just extremely rare to find any tweeters that can handle 100w RMS. That is an extreme amount of power going into a tiny driver. Their S line is only mid-level.

Let's look at their SPS-610C 6.5" Component system. That has a CEA rating of:
Max RMS Power Capacity: 80W
Peak Power Capacity: 240W

That's for both the midbass and tweeter being split between the two.

But they have the same issue with the Type R systems. The 6.5" component has a RMS of 110w and the tweeter alone is rated for 150w RMS.

Maybe these are competition level tweeters. I don't know. Just seems really high to me. Maybe the crossover really reduces the actual power getting to the driver.
 
Looks great! How does the sound compare to stock? I feel like the factory system has a lot of hollow spots in its range.
 
None that I can think of. It's just extremely rare to find any tweeters that can handle 100w RMS. That is an extreme amount of power going into a tiny driver. Their S line is only mid-level..."

Hi tigger,

Your observation of the 100W RMS tweeter being above the average is 100% CORRECT; you normally wouldn't run across a car audio high frequency driver needing to have it's rms power handling set quite that high. But your reasons as to why this tweeter's power handling specs may be higher than normal may need some revisitation! I think you were on the right trail when you said:
tigger said: "Maybe the crossover really reduces the actual power getting to the driver."

Well almost! In my description of the driver's sound character, I said that you could expect to see a much W-I-D-E-R frequency Bandwidth. Most of the car audio tweeters that I see advertised have a frequency range extending from 20khz down to about 4khz (just over 2 octaves, about 2 1/4 octaves). But the SPS-110TW has an unusually wide passband that extends the small driver's frequency range from 22khz down to 1khz (that's a whopping 4 1/2 octaves).

As a result, it's power handling capabilities would need to be increased to about double that of most 2 octave drivers because of the much higher, low frequency energy content in the signal that this driver would need to track and reproduce on average (continuous program)! Hope this makes sense lol!

Rgds
 
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Looks great! How does the sound compare to stock? I feel like the factory system has a lot of hollow spots in its range.

Hi DKFTP(NYC) neighbor!

There really isn't any comparison between the two, the Alpines are totally in a class by themselves! But I haven't yet replaced the door speakers; which I know makes it hard to assess just how much better the audio system sounds now than it did before... but there is still a BIG DIFFERENCE(!) much to the new Alpine tweeters credit!

Next I may just replace the two front door speakers and see how that sounds... "with Alpine of coarse!" My rear door speakers are always on (due to a change that I made to 'The Party mode system a while back, but I rarely have any rear passengers so those speakers can wait!

cheers
 
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Hi DKFTP(NYC) neighbor!

There really isn't any comparison between the two, the Alpines are totally in a class by themselves! But I haven't yet replaced the door speakers; which I know makes it hard to access just how much better the audio system sounds now than it did before... but there is still a BIG DIFFERENCE(!) much to the new Alpine tweeters credit!

Next I may just replace the two front door speakers and see how that sounds... "with Alpine of coarse!" My rear door speakers are always on (due to a change that I made to 'The Party mode system a while back, but I rarely have any rear passengers so those speakers can wait!

cheers

Hello rigtec from across the river!! :heh: Are you running this with the stock amp? Any concerns with them being underpowered? I came from an ELS sound system from Acura and the stock system in the TEP sounds so hollow. But deary me, those dash tweeters are easy to get to! :clap2:
 
Hello rigtec from across the river!! :heh: Are you running this with the stock amp? Any concerns with them being underpowered? I came from an ELS sound system from Acura and the stock system in the TEP sounds so hollow. But deary me, those dash tweeters are easy to get to! :clap2:

...across the river rigtec, "that's me haha"!

The topic of 'driver underpowering' is one that has very little (or nothing) to do with tweeters; or mid-bass drivers for that matter. This subject becomes relevant with regard to very high powered subwoofers and bass speakers for two reasons (1) The manufacturer notifies the buyer/operator in their 'Startup instructions' e.g., "your new speaker devise by 'ACME SPEAKER Co.' has a power handling range from 100W minimum to 900W RMS (1200W A.E.S.) and a maximum power handling capability of 3600W peak (6 dB crest factor). Your new low frequency driver has been run for 8 full hrs (break-in period) and is in top condition! Please note: To get the highest performance possible from your new subwoofer/bass speaker product, please be sure to provide it with an amplifier that is capable of AT LEAST 100W true RMS!

Or (2) Using an underpowered amplifier to drive a low frequency transducer or a subwoofer may damage a speaker by introducing Square waves ("see definition below") into the high voltage drive signal which a speaker is incapable of reproducing without severely overheating it's voice coil! **SQUARE WAVES DEFINITION** (a by-product of a distorted amplified signal which chops the tops off of its normalized output pattern when the output devices run out of S.O.A. Safe Operating Area)

Scenarios like these don't exist wrt high frequency drivers mainly because they require so little power to be driven!

Best to you!
 
...across the river rigtec, "that's me haha"!

The topic of 'driver underpowering' is one that has very little (or nothing) to do with tweeters; or mid-bass drivers for that matter. This subject becomes relevant with regard to very high powered subwoofers and bass speakers for two reasons (1) The manufacturer notifies the buyer/operator in their 'Startup instructions' e.g., "your new speaker devise by 'ACME SPEAKER Co.' has a power handling range from 100W minimum to 900W RMS (1200W A.E.S.) and a maximum power handling capability of 3600W peak (6 dB crest factor). Your new low frequency driver has been run for 8 full hrs (break-in period) and is in top condition! Please note: To get the highest performance possible from your new subwoofer/bass speaker product, please be sure to provide it with an amplifier that is capable of AT LEAST 100W true RMS!

Or (2) Using an underpowered amplifier to drive a low frequency transducer or a subwoofer may damage a speaker by introducing Square waves ("see definition below") into the high voltage drive signal which a speaker is incapable of reproducing without severely overheating it's voice coil! **SQUARE WAVES DEFINITION** (a by-product of a distorted amplified signal which chops the tops off of its normalized output pattern when the output devices run out of S.O.A. Safe Operating Area)

Scenarios like these don't exist wrt high frequency drivers mainly because they require so little power to be driven!

Best to you!

Thanks! Understood it perfectly. :banana:
 
But the SPS-110TW has an unusually wide passband that extends the small driver's frequency range from 22khz down to 1khz (that's a whopping 4 1/2 octaves).

As a result, it's power handling capabilities would need to be increased to about double that of most 2 octave drivers because of the much higher, low frequency energy content in the signal that this driver would need to track and reproduce on average (continuous program)! Hope this makes sense lol!

Rgds

Yeah, that is a wide range for a 1" tweeter. Mine are rated a little lower
TWEETER SIZE - 1-inch (25mm)
MOUNTING DIAMETER - 1 5/8 -inch (42mm)
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE - 8 ohms
RECOMMENDED AMPLIFIER Power - 20–100 watts
FREQUENCY RESPONSE (±3dB, in-car) - 3,800–22,000Hz

The system with the 6.5" midbass is rated at 3 ohm, 400w RMS at 90db sensitivity.
 
Yeah, that is a wide range for a 1" tweeter. Mine are rated a little lower
TWEETER SIZE - 1-inch (25mm)
MOUNTING DIAMETER - 1 5/8 -inch (42mm)
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE - 8 ohms
RECOMMENDED AMPLIFIER Power - 20–100 watts
FREQUENCY RESPONSE (±3dB, in-car) - 3,800–22,000Hz

The system with the 6.5" midbass is rated at 3 ohm, 400w RMS at 90db sensitivity.

What speakers are you using in dash and doors and, would you recommend them?
 
What speakers are you using in dash and doors and, would you recommend them?

I would highly recommend them, but I don't think they have been made in the last 10 or 15 years.

They are the Boston Acoustics Pro Series 6.5. I bought 3 pairs in 2000. They were $450 a pair. Still have 2 pair left (sold one pair a few years ago) I have put them through hell. Ran them in my Rubicon for 9 years of heavy off-roading.

Here are the specs
Boston Acoustics 5.5 User guide | Also for: 4.5, 6.53, 6.5
 
[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION],

Thanks for the write up. I'm definitely a novice when it comes to car audio. What speakers will you use for the Doors/Rear Tailgate? Same ones? Thanks for the help, I've already got the Alpine SPS-110TW in the Amazon cart!
 
[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION],

Thanks for the write up. I'm definitely a novice when it comes to car audio. What speakers will you use for the Doors/Rear Tailgate? Same ones? Thanks for the help, I've already got the Alpine SPS-110TW in the Amazon cart!
 
I would highly recommend them, but I don't think they have been made in the last 10 or 15 years.

They are the Boston Acoustics Pro Series 6.5. I bought 3 pairs in 2000. They were $450 a pair. Still have 2 pair left (sold one pair a few years ago) I have put them through hell. Ran them in my Rubicon for 9 years of heavy off-roading.

Here are the specs
Boston Acoustics 5.5 User guide | Also for: 4.5, 6.53, 6.5

Oh I remember those; they were considered among the "crème de la crème" back in their day! Glad you mentioned them, I'm pretty sure they can still be purchased on ebay, auctions, warehouse sales... Rgds!
 
[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION],

Thanks for the write up. I'm definitely a novice when it comes to car audio. What speakers will you use for the Doors/Rear Tailgate? Same ones? Thanks for the help, I've already got the Alpine SPS-110TW in the Amazon cart!

You'll want 6 3/4 for the doors and 5 1/4 for the hatch, generally. You can check out Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, 4k TV
to see what fits. They're not always the cheapest option but they throw in mounting brackets and wire harnesses plus directions with pics on how to take the door panels off, etc. Hope this helps
 
Thanks for the post, [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION].

Any impressions regarding sound staging? Tweeters can be hit-or-miss when aiming at the windshield.

At least for me, the stock speaker placement (along with the interior layout that somewhat limits relocating speakers) has left me apprehensive to start upgrading.
 

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