The hurt4x build and wheeling thread

[hurt4x]

Everything is back together and the truetrac seems to be working great!

Looks like i'm going to get a chance to really break it in at Harlan KY this coming weekend:reddance:

 

[hurt4x]

A few quick modifications before Harlan this weekend.

Modified my rear "in-coil" bumpstops to bolt up to the frame so i dont cringe every time my rear springs re-seat.

And more goodies from Ruffstuff. Some 20'' "ass vault" limiting straps to keep my rear shocks happy.

 

[hurt4x]

Well made it back from my first trip to Harlan. We had a great time and met some good people. I wish we had more than the day and a half to ride, I feel like i didn't even get to see half the park.

Got a nice little scratch on my front bumper and fender in the lower rock garden within the first 30min of being on the trails. The second day i broke a pass side CV on the ledge on the trail that leads to lions den and flattened out my alignment cam tabs.

 

[hurt4x]

And now with some wheeling pics.

 

[geohil]

Two weeks with the TruTrac - what do you think about it? How is the on-road and off-road performance? Was it the culprit for the busted CV?
Sorry for 50 questions - I've just been wanting to either lock or LS my front for some time.

Thanks

 

[Appntr]

Good to see you made it to Harlan!

 

[hurt4x]

Two weeks with the TruTrac - what do you think about it? How is the on-road and off-road performance? Was it the culprit for the busted CV?
Sorry for 50 questions - I've just been wanting to either lock or LS my front for some time.

Thanks

I'm very pleased with it! On the road in 2wd it is literally undetectable. In 4wd on the trails you'll notice the wheels want to track straight slightly more than normal, but nothing like a locked front. It is definitely an advantage over an open front offroad. Honestly i think the busted CV was my error from being use to wheeling with an open front. You do have to treat it with a little more care because now the tire with the most traction is the one with the power going to it. In my case the steering was at full lock or close to it.
I would recommend a TrueTrac to anyone that wants something other than an open front. Hope that helps in your decision!

 

[geohil]

I'm very pleased with it! On the road in 2wd it is literally undetectable. In 4wd on the trails you'll notice the wheels want to track straight slightly more than normal, but nothing like a locked front. It is definitely an advantage over an open front offroad. Honestly i think the busted CV was my error from being use to wheeling with an open front. You do have to treat it with a little more care because now the tire with the most traction is the one with the power going to it. In my case the steering was at full lock or close to it.
I would recommend a TrueTrac to anyone that wants something other than an open front. Hope that helps in your decision!

I think you got me on the TrueTrac bandwagon. Price is sure a lot better than an ARB setup. How was installation? I know getting our front-diffs out is half the battle. Much in the way of set-up?

 

[hurt4x]

I think you got me on the TrueTrac bandwagon. Price is sure a lot better than an ARB setup. How was installation? I know getting our front-diffs out is half the battle. Much in the way of set-up?

Yeah price is a big plus. I don't have ARB money, that's getting into SAS cost IMO.

I cant say much as far as installation. I didn't feel comfortable pressing on bearings and adjusting backlash in a diff i know nothing about, so i pulled it and had a local shop do the install. He said it went in no problem.

 

[hurt4x]

Not much updates. I still Need to bend my alignment cam tabs back into place and put some weld behind them so i can get this thing aligned.

After my front bumper incident at Harlan plans to make a front tube bumper are in the works and should start coming together within the next couple of weeks. So far I'm drawing blanks on decent ways to mount the bumper with my modified front frame and winch mount.

 

[NateMob]

Could you explain your rear spring retainer setup and show your limit strap setup also? Interested in doing both things.

 

[hurt4x]

Could you explain your rear spring retainer setup and show your limit strap setup also? Interested in doing both things.

Sure. For the bumpstops I welded a 3/8"x3'' bolt to the inside of the factory bumpstop, using a piece of 1/4"x1"x3"with the hole drilled in the center to sit on top of the rear upper coil bucket allowing the bumpstop to bolt to. I also have a small piece bolted to the bottom coil bucket to keep the bottom of the spring seated.

The limiting straps are a copy of a few others here on the forum. The upper mount welded to the frame rail and the bottom mount bolted to the stock lower shock mount using a longer bolt.

I will get pics of both put up sometime tomorrow.

 

[hurt4x]

I think you got me on the TrueTrac bandwagon. Price is sure a lot better than an ARB setup. How was installation? I know getting our front-diffs out is half the battle. Much in the way of set-up?

This was posted By ECGS on another forum regarding the TrueTrac in our diffs.
Thought you should see this. It may or may not affect your decision.
My CV's seated properly and i have not noticed any of said problems yet, But i will keep everyone updated.

Quote:
"There is some technical difficulties with those true tracs and they have been discontinued............... they can be installed but some pieces should be machined for them to work properly.

1. as evidence of the picture, truetrac did not provide a provision for a needle bearing or a bushing in the case nor did they even slot it for oil flow. Therefore the shaft can ride metal on metal on the driverside. If you do not have manual hubs then this CV spins all the time. We bore the case and install a bushing. In some instances a CV shaft has seized to the truetrac this is rare as the TT side gear typically keeps it centered, but it is a poor design.
2. the side gear does not retain the CV shaft as it should there are two different styles over the years one allows the CV shaft to float to far out and will cause seal to leak the revision does not allow the shaft to seat at all. On the revision you remove side gear and bore like .100 out of the inside to allow C-clip to seat. On previous version you can modify cv shaft with additional groove or cheat the seal out and hope for the best."

And quote:
"Yes I was referring to T7.5R which is what you have. We have put them in with no mods and had no issue so hopefully yours will be fine but we do not recommend them and they have been discontinued until further revision. If it was mine i would put it in and deal with the issues at hand its just hard to explain to a customer that the product you are selling them may have issues."

 

[hurt4x]

Could you explain your rear spring retainer setup and show your limit strap setup also? Interested in doing both things.

Here's a pic of how the upper bumpstop mounts up and my limiting strap set-up.
You'll have to put a couple washers between the shock and the strap mount on the bottom to keep them from interfering.

Sorry for the crappy cell pics

 

[tyr0981]

This was posted By ECGS on another forum regarding the TrueTrac in our diffs.
Thought you should see this. It may or may not affect your decision.
My CV's seated properly and i have not noticed any of said problems yet, But i will keep everyone updated.

Quote:
"There is some technical difficulties with those true tracs and they have been discontinued............... they can be installed but some pieces should be machined for them to work properly.

1. as evidence of the picture, truetrac did not provide a provision for a needle bearing or a bushing in the case nor did they even slot it for oil flow. Therefore the shaft can ride metal on metal on the driverside. If you do not have manual hubs then this CV spins all the time. We bore the case and install a bushing. In some instances a CV shaft has seized to the truetrac this is rare as the TT side gear typically keeps it centered, but it is a poor design.
2. the side gear does not retain the CV shaft as it should there are two different styles over the years one allows the CV shaft to float to far out and will cause seal to leak the revision does not allow the shaft to seat at all. On the revision you remove side gear and bore like .100 out of the inside to allow C-clip to seat. On previous version you can modify cv shaft with additional groove or cheat the seal out and hope for the best."

And quote:
"Yes I was referring to T7.5R which is what you have. We have put them in with no mods and had no issue so hopefully yours will be fine but we do not recommend them and they have been discontinued until further revision. If it was mine i would put it in and deal with the issues at hand its just hard to explain to a customer that the product you are selling them may have issues."

Interesting info, i (also) want a front locker and but i'm not willing to spend 'ARB Money' on the project, but I read allot of bad things about how sending constant power to both wheels, everything from snapping half shafts at joints to breaking them off at the input to the front dif! The constant drive on one side is standard for the "lunch box locker", Ausie-lockers dif's use the same method.

Ausie lockers has been great with there info to me, what will fit and work, since most of my driving on the street, she's my Daily driver, and use 4wd in the snow allot in Oregon being street friendly is a big deal for me. I'm sold on a rear auto-locker (as soon as my lazy ass orders it!) but the front has always made me real nervous...

You drive it in snow/ice at all with the front locker installed? would like to hear what you think of its "streetability"?

thanks man!

 

[hurt4x]

Well sadly it is time for this build thread to come to an end. I will miss the hell out of my 4 runner, but now i have a new addition to the Toyota family.

82' with bobbed bed, 4.7 t-case gears, dirty 30's in the front with e-locker front, welded rear and 99% rust free.