phattyduck
Elite Member
Maybe the trans mount is just collapsed? That would explain the droop at the rear of the transfer case. There is a lot of extra weight back there right now...
-Charlie
The Official 3rd Gen Dual Case, Dual Locked Thread
- Thread starter Rockdawg84
- Start date
-Charlie
rkntoy
New member
You can also bend the transmission shifter a bit to keep it away from the t-case shifters
papabeach
Member
I think this will be a must! I used a MAP gas torch/press and hammer/drift to bend the RadDesign Sticks...still need to go a bit further....will probably do the same with the transmission shifter though I like the way you cut yours down...may go this route. It is a total custom job, right? Go until you are happy. Also, just ordered the HD detent springs. Shifting from N to L in the rear case seems soft...kicking myself for not doing this earlier but live and learn...
Honestly, I feel a little silly now. My buddy reminded me that our front drive shafts don't move much...our front 3rd members are fixed...the CV's do all the flexing. Here is a pic at full droop....minimal to no change with clearance, so for IFS...clear is clear it seems. I am fine unless I SAS (which might happen in the future). I was thinking with my old 80 series brain...IFS is a different...doh. Trans mount is in great shape...inspected it while it was out...shocked at how well it has stood up. Kinda made me wonder if running an OEM rubber mount on the crawlbox would be a good idea. I already have plans for the HD mount but kinda curious now.
Also, looks like my sag is similar to that of the pic I thieved from [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] below.
I spoke with TG today and their crossmember/skid is meant to follow the "natural" angle of the driveline but simply provide more support. Agree with others that it is just too low. Stinks to buy such an expensive product and then need to cut it up. Its the price you pay though... I am wondering how much I can stuff it up before I have to get adjustable rear control arms and change the pinion angle without causing vibrations...
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Trail Gear Dual Case
Found that my TG case had gears running metal on metal a while back, TG couldn't answer why but sent out a new 4.7 gear set, I installed said set and have put roughly 150 miles on my rig. Decided to change the fluid so that i could check for issues and found that the same thing was happening. As far as I can tell the only thing that would cause this is the output shaft bearing deflection... this is why marlin use a double row main shaft bearing. Feel like I paid Trail Gear to do their R&D for them, I've had to R&R their case 8x since I 1st installed (popping out of gear, to reseal leaking fluid from them not completely sealing, gears eating each other). Waiting to hear back from them, so far they have been very professional in their treatment, hopefully they continue and I don't end up stuck with a large paper weight.
Found that my TG case had gears running metal on metal a while back, TG couldn't answer why but sent out a new 4.7 gear set, I installed said set and have put roughly 150 miles on my rig. Decided to change the fluid so that i could check for issues and found that the same thing was happening. As far as I can tell the only thing that would cause this is the output shaft bearing deflection... this is why marlin use a double row main shaft bearing. Feel like I paid Trail Gear to do their R&D for them, I've had to R&R their case 8x since I 1st installed (popping out of gear, to reseal leaking fluid from them not completely sealing, gears eating each other). Waiting to hear back from them, so far they have been very professional in their treatment, hopefully they continue and I don't end up stuck with a large paper weight.
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Whatever mounts you end up running, use the same material for the entire drivetrain. Either stick with rubber for everything or switch everything to poly, including the engine mounts.
Don't forget that you have a clockable adapter plate. Obviously it would be a bit more work, but you can clock the case and get it back above the crossmember.
papabeach
Member
[MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION] I appreciate the tips. I ended up sticking with OEM rubber for now. I added a spacer to the top of the crossmember so I could raise the driveline enough to use my Shrockwork skids without any additional modification to them and also add the new mount on the back. I think it turned out pretty nice. I don’t really notice too much in the way of new vibrations...had expected more so am pretty happy. I might clock the setup sometime in the future but for now this was the easiest answer. I also ordered a TG TC shifter as it is easier to bend then the one Marlin sent. Then more shifter mod fun...
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theesotericone
New member
Sweet man. Once you wheel it all that work will be so worth it. It really is a game changer.
Had to send my TG case back to them again. My conclusion after digging a bit more is the spacer they used to stop my popping issue to deep into the case, the output shaft snap ring is what controls the spacing based on the case. I suspect that the case was not machined to correct specs which caused the popping out of gear issue and when they shimmed the output shaft bearing it closed the space to much, said combined with the bearing deflection was causing the rubbing (u can c it in the pic but the parts rubbing r concave which supports the bearing deflection). TG is sending me back an all new dual case except the trans to dual case adapter plate. With all that said I've returned my DD 4runner back to single case and thinking atlas maybe the way 4 me to go on my new build. Probably going to just sell the new TG case coming off. When I took the output bearing and spacers out it was pretty obvious things were forced. The custermer service has been great but i wish a little they had been dicks to start so I would have asked for my $ back at the start.
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papabeach
Member
Bummer to hear...that’s a lot of work. Maybe give the new case a go? If it works...it might just be worth it.
My plan was to move the TG case over to my new build, I'm concerned that with my increase in power that even if everything is good now that I'll destroy it with said. I can get the most $ for a new case. Plus I need to set my axles pinion angle and all my housing bracketing based off the case position so to have to go back and change over to a atlas if it failed again... my guess is I'd start snapping input/output shafts and I couldn't blame TG for that with my setup...
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
LOL! - that's the first time I've ever heard someone complain about good customer service. Love it, lol.
papabeach
Member
Finally got my custom boot from Redline. They did great, highly recommend for those that want to go this route. Oh and more importantly, I got to use the gears recently at Uwharrie, NC during the 2020 Overland Challenge. Not sure I “needed” the gearing but the added control was great.
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That looks really good. Where did you get the shift knobs?
Finally got my custom boot from Redline. They did great, highly recommend for those that want to go this route. Oh and more importantly, I got to use the gears recently at Uwharrie, NC during the 2020 Overland Challenge. Not sure I “needed” the gearing but the added control was great.
papabeach
Member
phattyduck
Elite Member
Does the spline count/size for the guibo drive flange match the A340F output? It does have an extended snout that has to be cut off for sure...
-Charlie
Using the rear/back housing off a 5vz A340 set up for 4x4 (the housing that bolts up to the tcase) on the rear of the 2JZ auto. All that is required is adding the center bottom bolt hole to the 2JZ trans case. Had to cut down the 2JZ 2wd rear output shaft, even doing so you are left with a .75" longer output shaft on the 2JZ shaft, the tone rings on the two units are completely different and require that I somehow couple the 2JZ tone ring with the Atlas spud shaft. The 5vz and 2JZ transmission share the same 23 spline output shaft count. Because of the +.75" on the output shaft I have to make a new rear seal housing +.75" (the one that comes with the Atlas to A340 adatpter kit) in order to seal the trans from the tcase, in addition, a .75" space is required to push the Atlas back said distance. There is a spring used on the female Atlas input side that keeps the (AA) advance adapter spud shaft from sliding in and out that just happens to be .75" long, hoping that I can use this dead spaced for the add 2JZ trans output shaft length and not need to the new spacer or seal housing, but wont know until I get more info from AA or the Atlas arrives.
ccurry0016
New member
Anyone do this with a 96-98 limited auto? Just curious about set up and that low of gearing on an auto.
T4topher
Member
For those that used the oem toyota mount option for their dual cases is this the correct toyota part#12371-35050. They look identical...
1237135050 Toyota INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, REAR NO.1, Price: 84.3$, Weight: 1.79kg - PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
Vs
Crossmember Mount, OEM | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
1237135050 Toyota INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, REAR NO.1, Price: 84.3$, Weight: 1.79kg - PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
Vs
Crossmember Mount, OEM | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Doc2012
Senior Member
Ok. Gonna be a ‘noob’ here for a minute.
Guy near me is selling a R150 and transfer case from a 3.0.
The 3.0 had a chain driven; PSD case.
Looking at the pictures, it looks like the case is in 3 ‘parts’; like the gear driven case from the 4 bangers. And the front housing looks identical to my Lefty.
I should be able to take the front of the 3.0 case and bolt it directly up to my Lefty (gear driven case) for a doubler; right?
Or am I way freaking off?
I’ve tried looking; and can find information about the whole case; but not if I can use the front for a doubler or not.
Guy near me is selling a R150 and transfer case from a 3.0.
The 3.0 had a chain driven; PSD case.
Looking at the pictures, it looks like the case is in 3 ‘parts’; like the gear driven case from the 4 bangers. And the front housing looks identical to my Lefty.
I should be able to take the front of the 3.0 case and bolt it directly up to my Lefty (gear driven case) for a doubler; right?
Or am I way freaking off?
I’ve tried looking; and can find information about the whole case; but not if I can use the front for a doubler or not.
