The Official 3rd Gen Dual Case, Dual Locked Thread

[phattyduck]

Why switch to the J? Length issue?

I had duals in my Tacoma and LOVED it. I want those low gears again
https://youtu.be/jRZZN5V2je0

Crawl ratio was 209:1 in this though. With a 4.7 in front of my chain 2.28 case I’m looking st only 129ish. Still plenty low though. 209 was almost too slow...almost...

You basically have a j-shift case with an actuator on the back. It *should* fit. Tricking your 4WD ECU shouldn't be too hard if you do switch to the manual case though. The later multi-mode case ECU would be more difficult to trick (probably best to just remove it and change to the simple relay, in that case)

-Charlie

 

[CrawlerJamie]

Good Info, thank you everyone. If anyone has more to chip in, please do.

I called Marin and they said I should be able to use my factory case. However I would prefer a manual case.

 

[theesotericone]

OK gents. First question and I doubt the last.

How did you get the stock t-case female input shaft coupler off the damn male input gear assembly? I've looked at the FSM and it shows it as a one piece unit. Because I can clearly see the male 23 spline inside the female coupler I figured it would pull out with some force. After a bunch of heat and liquid wrench I can't get the bastard to move.

I'm taking the stock case fully apart tomorrow but if anyone wants to clue me in please do.

Here's some photos to help.

Output of crawlbox.

Input of stock case. I need that female part gone. lol

Thanks guys. I'm sure I'm missing something painfully obvious. Like a press or a grinder. lol

 

[96RedRunner]

That's going to be what is called a Shrink Fit in machinist lingo. Will require a bit of heat, (not too much heat or it will expand the shaft) and a puller or press.
If there is room a Split bearing puller might work, if not press time.
A grinder and cutoff wheel is the easiest way as long as you stay out of the shaft.

 

[theesotericone]

That's going to be what is called a Shrink Fit in machinist lingo. Will require a bit of heat, (not too much heat or it will expand the shaft) and a puller or press.
If there is room a Split bearing puller might work, if not press time.
A grinder and cutoff wheel is the easiest way as long as you stay out of the shaft.

Thanks for that. I was really hoping just heat and a levered vice grip set-up would pull it out. I'll find a split bearing puller and do it that way. There's just enough meat to get one on. If not out comes the grinder. lol

 

[owyheerat]

OK gents. First question and I doubt the last.

How did you get the stock t-case female input shaft coupler off the damn male input gear assembly? I've looked at the FSM and it shows it as a one piece unit. Because I can clearly see the male 23 spline inside the female coupler I figured it would pull out with some force. After a bunch of heat and liquid wrench I can't get the bastard to move.

I'm taking the stock case fully apart tomorrow but if anyone wants to clue me in please do.

Here's some photos to help.

Output of crawlbox.

Input of stock case. I need that female part gone. lol

Thanks guys. I'm sure I'm missing something painfully obvious. Like a press or a grinder. lol

If you have access to a welder, I used a trick I read somewhere online but I can't seem to find the thread now to share with you, so I will do my best to explain it.

I took a 4" long pc of 1" x 1/8" flat bar (any size scrap would work) and drilled a 5/16" hole in the center of it. Then I welded a 14/x 20 nut over the hole. Don't breath these fumes.
Then tacked the 1" flat bar to the end of the female coupler. Then ran a long 1/4 x 20 bolt in and popped the coupler right off...easy peasy.

Hopefully that makes sense.

Good luck

Durwin

 

[96RedRunner]

Thanks for that. I was really hoping just heat and a levered vice grip set-up would pull it out. I'll find a split bearing puller and do it that way. There's just enough meat to get one on. If not out comes the grinder. lol

I like to pay it forward when I can.

This is how I would attempt it:
Put assembly in freezer for 4 or more hours, remove from freezer.
Do this quick like so shaft doesn't have time to expand.
Get the puller in place and torque it down almost bending or braking stuff.
Then apply heat opposite sides parallel to shaft just on part of coupling that has shaft in it.
Good chance it will pop off. Good Luck.

Durwin's way sounds good also, we were typing same time.

 

[theesotericone]

[MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] [MENTION=102168]owyheerat[/MENTION]

I appreciate the input. The split bearing puller and the welded plate method both would be good. I could find neither a welder or a split bearing puller in my garage so I went back to basics.

After letting the coupling sit in liquid wrench all night I decided to give it one more try before spending 50 bucks on a split bearing puller. Using heat on the tip and a chisel/hammer combo I was able to get some separation. Then I used my Knipex Cobra's and a hammer to get just a bit more. Then I had enough separation to get the jaws of a 3 leg puller on it. Here's the last 5 minutes of my life in photo's. lol

 

[Wedgy]

Thanks for that. I was really hoping just heat and a levered vice grip set-up would pull it out. I'll find a split bearing puller and do it that way. There's just enough meat to get one on. If not out comes the grinder. lol

No grinders for a while or I can't watch.

 

[96RedRunner]

Here's the last 5 minutes of my life in photo's. lol

Glad to see it came off easy, Toyota used a class 1 shrink fit on the coupling
then which is good to know, thanks. The freezer plan is for a class 3 shrink fit.
LOL you would have needed a big freezer, thought you were tearing box down.

 

[theesotericone]

LOL you would have needed a big freezer, thought you were tearing box down.

I am tearing it down to inspect it. I promised my wife I wouldn't start on the teardown till tomorrow. I can't have something in my garage for two days and not do something to it though. lol

 

[theesotericone]

Confirmed working. lol

 

[theesotericone]

Ok guys. Drive shafts. Who made yours?

I've been trying to decide on who's making mine. So far it's between Tom Woods and High Angle. Anyone else I should be looking into?

 

[Rockdawg84]

Ok guys. Drive shafts. Who made yours?

I've been trying to decide on who's making mine. So far it's between Tom Woods and High Angle. Anyone else I should be looking into?

I used a local Driveshaft shop here in town. Since we don't need a long spline shaft I simply had mine rebuilt with heavy wall tubing. They are great and it was faster that shipping out of town.

 

[theesotericone]

I used a local Driveshaft shop here in town. Since we don't need a long spline shaft I simply had mine rebuilt with heavy wall tubing. They are great and it was faster that shipping out of town.

If that was an option I'd take it. Bishop isn't exactly the mecca for quality work. Great fishing, great climbing, great wheeling, not so great for getting anything custom built. lol

In another thread [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] suggested Hi Desert Driveline. I just got off the phone with them and that's who I'll be using. Reasonable turn-around and a no BS type of guy. He's trying to source the shafts this weekend. Hopefully I can get the duals in and get him the numbers.

Since I'm getting the duals in I figured I might as well make it a bank account busting month. Filthy has an order for Kings that will be coming to my address. I also am looking into getting rear links. Front Range Offroad is who I'll most likely be purchasing them from. They're beef and will do exactly what I need. Not break. lol

For mounts I'm going to use the factory cross member mount on the crawl. Then I'll fab a mount to the bottom of my Savage skids to support the rear case. I haven't seen anyone do this but it should work and work well.

I put a call in to Wyat at Rock Solid they other day to verify something. He asked about what mount I was planning on using. I told him my plan and he said that's pretty close to what he does. I'll see how it works out and go from there.

 

[AssBurns]

In another thread [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] suggested Hi Desert Driveline. I just got off the phone with them and that's who I'll be using. Reasonable turn-around and a no BS type of guy. He's trying to source the shafts this weekend. Hopefully I can get the duals in and get him the numbers.

Since I'm getting the duals in I figured I might as well make it a bank account busting month. Filthy has an order for Kings that will be coming to my address. I also am looking into getting rear links. Front Range Offroad is who I'll most likely be purchasing them from. They're beef and will do exactly what I need. Not break. lol

Good to hear you found someone that can get the job done in a decent timeline and stick to Toyota parts. That'll be worth it in the end.


Damn! You are going all out! Getting fancy with the Kings and new links. I know the FROR links are well built (Especially the link tubing itself), but heims can get old quick. I'd definitely recommend buying or making your own with some Johnny Joint style rod ends. They will give a more comfortable ride and be less maintenance and cheaper to replace. Also while you are down there working on things, I'd also recommend some weld washers to prevent the bolt holes from wallowing out. Ruff Stuff sells some good ones for a great price. Plus they are having a 15% off sale until 07/09 (Coupon Code is: FREEDOM). Should've bought my old ones last month.

 

[theesotericone]

Should've bought my old ones last month.

I was going to but someone didn't PM me about them. lol

What's the problem with the helms? Just the noise?

 

[AssBurns]

I was going to but someone didn't PM me about them. lol

What's the problem with the helms? Just the noise?

I posted it in my build thread and it's own separate thread. It was available to anyone that inquired. Someone else just happened to pay attention to what I was saying at the time of selling them... :flipoff:

Heims are strong, but tend to transfer more road noise and vibration to the cab. They tend to loosen up and rattle, which will be extremely annoying and will required full replacements to resolve. You gotta keep them clean and dry lubed or they will loosen up prematurely. Great for Baja racers that need strength, but are willing to replace when needed during their race prep. IMO they aren't the best option for how we use our vehicles.

With the Johnny Joint style joints, they will dampen the road noise and vibration quite a bit compared to heims. Depending on what joint you go with, there is little to no maintenance. Also depending on the joint, replacing the bushing is easy as pulling a C-Clip, then pushing out the worn bushing and pushing in a fresh one by hand. Some companies (like MetalCloak) offer lifetime warranty on their bushings so the replacement cost is free if they happen to wear out on you. If the bushing does start to wear out it won't drive you insane rattling over every single imperfection in the road.

If you want I'll build you some for a case of Pliny the Elder and cost of material (I got a lot on the side of the garage that needs to be used before it ends up rusting away). Just get me the bungs, and I'll get the tubing cut and bungs welded up for you.

 

[Rockdawg84]

I'm running FROR rear upper and lower links and can tell you that they are really well made and for me the nice thing is that the heims have custom misalignment spacers to fit into the stock mounts without extra washers. They have a nice machined spot for putting a wrench to adjust them etc. It was really nice to just paint them and put them in. I haven't noticed any extra Noise or vibration but I'm not sure I would over the MTR's. LOL. Now if you can get a set built of the cost of materials and some beer. Well how do you go wrong with that.

Rear Links 3 by Sam Wright, on Flickr

Rear Links 5 by Sam Wright, on Flickr

 

[theesotericone]

Now if you can get a set built of the cost of materials and some beer. Well how do you go wrong with that.

You don't go wrong with that. lol

I picked the worse possible time to do the dual install. Middle of wheeling season and my garage hit 107 today. I had just enough in me to get the 99 center console installed and formulate a plan of attack. I wanted to get a lot further along but that's what happened. lol

You been getting any wheeling in?