the great him
Elite Member
post up some pics when you get it installed, i wanta see how the black dial looks, i thought about swapping out the dial to the black one as the main gauge cluster is black...
the Rescue Runner build thread
- Thread starter the great him
- Start date
pdx650
Member
I plan on taking photos throughout the process. I chose the black face part #2640 exactly for the reason you mention. It matches the rest of the dash cluster closer than any other 'Z' series autometer has in their catalog.
Since the gauge kit comes with a green and red 'cot' for the incandescent bulb, I was planning on going with red to indicate red trans. fluid. Good thing the red cover is easily removable in case I decide otherwise.
I'm most concerned about the wiring from the gauge pod (5 wires!) coming down behind the plastic 'A' pillar insert. As the insert attaches to the lower end, I'm hoping I can just fish all the wires down and get them all at the other end behind the left foot kick panel. A type of 'Hail Mary' wire shove maneuver if you can imagine.
Behind the kick panel I have my 4 post terminal block located and my cb is hooked up already to it. I am not connecting the gauge power to an ignition source. I will make it switchable whether the ignition/accessories are on or not via a non-OE SPST switch. I have it all mapped out and have gone over it in my head numerous times to make sure all the connections will be correct. I am not good with electrical schematics. I did the math, too, for the voltages and amps for the gauge. It is listed on the install page/pdf online.
Cross your fingers and I'll have a hefty fire extinguisher with me as I complete the work.
Here it is out of the box and I put the two together.
The aftermarket switch:
The terminal block:
The red 'jumper' wires send power to all four posts.
The single yellow (nestled within the red jumpers) comes directly from the battery via a 30 amp fuse.
The open red connection on the left is now hooked up to my cobra 19 plus cb.
The red fuse holder coming off the right jumper is dedicated for the spst switch for the trans. temp. gauge.
I will have to do more wire work. The red fuse holder will now come after the spst switch, not before it. Then it goes to the gauge.
etc, etc, etc.
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the great him
Elite Member
one thing i did with my trans gauge is for the illumination, i tapped into the dimmer switch on the dash, this way it lets me adjust the illumination on the gauge in relation to the dash lights. it worked great! i really like the black face! but i have been looking at the 4957 to swap out my current gauge with, its a full sweep gauge and i like it better, only problem is, it does not come with a black dial/face...:shrug:
pdx650
Member
Sorry to hear that, the kid. It's a shame that you can't find a black faced style you want that's a full sweeper. I suppose i'm not too concerned about it. I looked for something that would be close to the stock cluster in appearance.
I typed 'transmission' on autometers website search bar and found a couple. Here's one. What about the 5451?
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2724&sid=9
I was wondering about tapping into the rheostat (dimmer dial) instead of the ash tray leads. The rheostat will be closer to my gauge than the ashtray by far. Are the rheostats' wires labeled positive and negative? I really don't want to burn out my bulb before I install it if the wires get switched accidentally. And it sounds relatively easy to do, right?
I typed 'transmission' on autometers website search bar and found a couple. Here's one. What about the 5451?
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2724&sid=9
I was wondering about tapping into the rheostat (dimmer dial) instead of the ash tray leads. The rheostat will be closer to my gauge than the ashtray by far. Are the rheostats' wires labeled positive and negative? I really don't want to burn out my bulb before I install it if the wires get switched accidentally. And it sounds relatively easy to do, right?
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the great him
Elite Member
Well for one its too large, and two, it does not give a low enough temp reading... I do like the higher temp reading, but I dont really plan on ever needing a guage that goes over 250 so, it's a really not needed
the great him
Elite Member
ok on to my sand lake adventure yesterday... boy was this not my day, first my my roof rack came off, got that fixed, but still irritating.
then on my way home i was hearing this "ticking" sound kinda like the inner finder splash guard was lose... i listened to this for about 5 min and thought oh F no, this is gonna bother me all the way home(a 2 hour drive). so i pulled over and went to go find the source of the mystery sound, sounded like it was coming from the front left. anyhow i get out and have a look, cant see anything, then i pop the hood and have a look their, still nothing, so i thought huh i wonder if it was my air line dangling down in the back, so i go back their and look, and the first thing i notice is "man, it smells like gear oil back here. so i look for leaky axle seals, nope thats all good, then i look at my drain plug on the diff cause i remember seeing some wetness there the other day, and wow everything was soaked. but it was the whole rear end, not just the lower part by the drail plug. so i looked a bit close and notice a nice hole ripped in my housing, something came lose(im suspecting they spider gears or a tooth off the rig) and came punching out through the housing right next to the fill plug. i caught it early enough that their was still fluid in the bottom third of the diff, and there was no noise coming from the rear end -no howl/grown, and everything back their was and is still working smooth.
i limped it back into town and met back up with the group i had been with all day, they off loaded on of their rigs, and i drove mine up onto their trailer and then we all had dinner and then drove home.
then on my way home i was hearing this "ticking" sound kinda like the inner finder splash guard was lose... i listened to this for about 5 min and thought oh F no, this is gonna bother me all the way home(a 2 hour drive). so i pulled over and went to go find the source of the mystery sound, sounded like it was coming from the front left. anyhow i get out and have a look, cant see anything, then i pop the hood and have a look their, still nothing, so i thought huh i wonder if it was my air line dangling down in the back, so i go back their and look, and the first thing i notice is "man, it smells like gear oil back here. so i look for leaky axle seals, nope thats all good, then i look at my drain plug on the diff cause i remember seeing some wetness there the other day, and wow everything was soaked. but it was the whole rear end, not just the lower part by the drail plug. so i looked a bit close and notice a nice hole ripped in my housing, something came lose(im suspecting they spider gears or a tooth off the rig) and came punching out through the housing right next to the fill plug. i caught it early enough that their was still fluid in the bottom third of the diff, and there was no noise coming from the rear end -no howl/grown, and everything back their was and is still working smooth.
i limped it back into town and met back up with the group i had been with all day, they off loaded on of their rigs, and i drove mine up onto their trailer and then we all had dinner and then drove home.
the great him
Elite Member
no, it slid out the front.
the great him
Elite Member
well i got my shocks and struts ordered last night, along with the eye to stud adapter from toytec. should all be here by early next week so hopefully by the end of next week ill have a lifted 4runner...
went with the tundra 5100 front struts, and 5125(pn 6252) rears. i cant wait!, as soon as thats done its time for an alignment, and then going though the whole truck and replacing all of the bushings...
went with the tundra 5100 front struts, and 5125(pn 6252) rears. i cant wait!, as soon as thats done its time for an alignment, and then going though the whole truck and replacing all of the bushings...
trailhead98
New member
Sounds great! I can't wait to see your truck lifted!
the great him
Elite Member
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4Running Daily
New member
I love the new look.
Sherwood4Runner
New member
The lift pics look great man! I love the stance.
curtperry
New member
In this pic it appears your rear passenger spring is not sitting correctly on its perch. I believe the end of the coil should be turned 180deg (toward the front)
I just installed my rear lift yesterday and with the end of the coil pointing forward it more closely followed the contours of the perch and seemed more securely mounted.
I could be wrong though... it was my first time doing it.
tylerbaird
New member
Looks good man! What were you doing at Sand Lake? I was just there a couple weeks ago riding ATV's with a buddy.
fightman80
New member
Looks great man! You may need some wheel spacers there... 
CraigRoberts
New member
There's a 4Runner down the street from me in nice condition that looks exactly like yours pre-mods.
I'd pick it up if the wife didn't make me get my 5th gen already :whip2:
I'd pick it up if the wife didn't make me get my 5th gen already :whip2:
the great him
Elite Member
nope i assure you its seated into the perch as it should be.
im running on the 3rd notch(middle setting), i wish it was higher, and i might bump up to the 4th just to try and level it out some, we shall see...
i was there for the sand flea rally and yeah well just one more reason for me to hate the sand
Looks great man! You may need some wheel spacers there...
yeah im looking at the trail gear 1" spacers cause i dont want to run spacers at all, but i see i need to so 1" it is
thanks man
thank you, we need to go out wheeling again sometime and get some more action shots (hopefully this time not of me breaking off any mirrors:dammit::redbrick
thanks man, i have always loved your rig and am really digging your new front bumper how long have you had it, it looks stellar on your runner!
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