Think2x's '87 (slow moving) "makeover" thread.

It's a 5 speed.


Looking at the UCA clearance with the 265/70 on it, i would need wheel spacers with the 285's but might clear the 255's. I also gotta pick up some shank style lugs for these now.

On the 255's I know what you mean on pricey and limited choices, I learned a long time ago not to go cheap on tires so Im good with spending good money for good product. Looking at Maxxis Bighorn as an option, I love the look and found them for $202 each shipped.
 
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Haven't had a chance to work on the 'runner lately between the weather and my Bronco's brakes took a dump and I had to run some hard lines/hoses and calipers on it. The weather should hold me up much longer though

Now, I know I was shooting for a 33" tire but thinking about all options here. Does anyone have any thoughts on 34/9.00/16 swampers or a Q78x16 "farm tire" on the OEM 16" rims? Just looking at all the possibilities here.

This is a TOY, not a DD. Around town, mild playing at most.

Thanks,

Jamie
 
Ok,
I got a new air compressor and some tools. I figure I'm gonna need them, can't spin all these bolt by hand. The "to do" list got pretty overwhelming so I'm gonna knock out the smaller ones first. I'll be getting a window regulator this week, may go to the 'yard and get a pair of Chevy 63" while I'm out.

The plan on the Brake issue is to replace the remaining components. I have already replaced the rear wheel cylinders, shoes and Master cylinder. Ditching the LSPV and getting an adjustable prop valve, front calipers, hoses and hard lines to make the whole hydraulic system new.

It was warm enough to go out and play around a bit today. Besides the OEM split 3's I also picked up these for a decent deal, mostly for the Yoko's (33/12.50's)


I thought I'd have some fun with the welder. My "back yard" bead breaker made out of some scrap steel and an old hitch receiver.


It was killin' me wanting to know what the Graphite Spoke wheels would look like with 33's so I swapped them over.



That's all I've done for now. Time to go read more on the Chevy leaf swap.
 
If I do that ill need to swap the master again and booster. Im ok going that route but wont I lose the ability to run 15" wheels? Im not sure if I want to lose running a 15 if I change my mind later.
 
Im ok going that route but wont I lose the ability to run 15" wheels?

I don't know why you would. 15s were stock on the second gen and late model first gens those calipers come from.

I understand some people find the need to grind the calipers down at one spot on the back, but that's the only fitment issue I know of.
 
I was thinking that the V6 caliper trucks had the 16" wheels but If they came with 15" OEM, that's the route I'll go.
 
So while messing around with the 'runner the other day I noticed one of the rear fenderwells had a crack in the primer. I feared this from the day I got it, out came the angle grinder to investigate. Sure enough, the dude that traded it to me stuffed the holes with rags and packed it full of filler.



I found a few pretty good threads on my options. Add sheetmetal to the ever growing list! I decided to trim the wheelwells out which removed most of the rot. I started by using a drafting compass set at 2" to trace the front fender larger, then 3.5" in the rear. Before I cut anything I stepped back and studied it for a bit. I decided I liked the shape of the rear fender bulge line better than the wheelwell so I redrew it using the compass following the bulge's groove. I then used the now removed sheetmetal to get the curves to match up front with the rear's new shape.


This is the worse of the two quarters. It looks like I can replace the remaining rot with a small patch welded in when I start building the inner fenderwell.


And here is the front, I got it to match the rear pretty close.


A shot of both.


I haven't made it out to get the rear leave's yet, I've been working overtime and the JY is closed when I'm off work.
 
Got a little rot removed and some sheetmetal put back in.





Going to start removing the back half of the interior next so I can study how to tie the fenderwells back in to the fender.
 
Got the back half of the interior stripped out today, pretty clean except for the front of the wheel tubs.



More rot.......:dammit: At least I should be able to weld better after I'm done.





On the good side, I think I figured out how to tie the quarter back to the wheelwell. I sectioned off the top flat part of the wheelwell, straightened the outer roll and hammered it up level with the quarter and tacked it in place. This should be a solid start and I will fill in the rest with fresh sheetmetal as I go.



 
More pics of the tubbing, that's awesome!

I'll take the camera back out the next chance I get to work on it.

The top part of the wheelwell is mostly flat. I used a sawzaw to cut straight in on each end, I cut off the flange of the wheelwell(where the quarter panel met the wheelwell). I then bent it down by hand and used a metal plate as a block and a 2lb mini sledge to flatten it out. I then used the sledge to bend it back level and make contact with the quarter skin. I tacked it in several places and then ground the excess lip off and then tack it some more.
 
KidV, Here's some shots from the inside.

Passenger side fender that I haven't done anything other than cut out.


Driver's side fender that I took the other shots of.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 
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Got the bumpers removed today.



I also got some more sheetmetal in the left rear fenderwell.



And I finished replacing the rot in front of the left rear fenderwell.



The weather cut my day short so I'll get back out when I can.
 
Found time to put in a little more sheetmetal.





I had to replace some metal behind here too, under the factory jack location.

I'll try to do more sooner.
 

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