SilverBullet01
Senior Member
he told me 
its a really cool intuitive idea, but i'll let you tell him. after all it is "his" idea. lol
its a really cool intuitive idea, but i'll let you tell him. after all it is "his" idea. lol
thinking about a new grille...
- Thread starter Sloan
- Start date
SilverBullet01
Senior Member
lol indeed it does
QSVeilside
New member
KellyJ - My 2000 grille is silver. The 98 grille I picked up is chrome but I will be painting it silver to match the rest of the truck.
BTLFED - The satoshi replaces the center of the grille with a mesh that is far inset to give what I consider a deep agressive look. I love that part about the satoshi. What I don't like is the amount of time it takes to work with fiberglass and bondo. Nor do I care for how messy the process is. Instead of using fiberglass to fill the areas I cut out, I used a two part epoxy putty that is available for a whopping $2 a tube at your local Home Depot. You knead the two parts together to activate the epoxy, fill the holes, mold it accordingly, wait an hour, and sand it down. It's as simple as that... AND it bonds stronger than the original plastic. Along the same lines, it eliminates the need for mounting screws for the metal mesh. Just use epoxy to bond the metal mesh to the underlying plastic. You might have seen this on TV as "Mighty Putty" I forget the name of the stuff at home depot, but it's basically the same for cheaper.
The mesh will be painted bbq black. Never cared for the emblem or T-O-Y-O-T-A spelled out in caps and dashes. The surrounding plastic will be smooth and painted silver to match the rest of the truck.
mikeinthehouse - I have an open cone intake similar to the K&N that many say is a POS at best. The benefit to this setup is increased airflow. The area surrounding the intake is restrictive to say the least, and that is why removing the intake elbow in the passenger fender is known to increase power. The downfall is that it sucks in hot underhood air... for which, I have done the following:
The supercharger generates a TON of underhood heat. To address this issue, I vented my hood scoop, and removed sheet metal surrounding the headlight to allow for more ambient airflow into the intake area. You can't really see it in the pictures, but a significant portion of the sheet metal was removed from under the headlight as well. I drilled four 1" holes in the exterior panel under the headlight, which I subsequently inserted hollow 1" rubber grommits for aesthetics. To keep rust out I used touch up paint and sealed the edges of the grommits with silicone. It gives the truck an aggressive demeanor and sets it apart from the rest of the 4runners in town. The intake came with a useless metal heatshield. I used pliable brushed aluminum to completely wrap the intake heat shield so that no underhood heat can seep in.
To top everything off I did the throttle body coolant bypass mod. The next time you pop the hood, take a look at the throttle body. There are two rubber lines running through the bottom of it. Normally, coolant runs through the throttle body heating it up to 200 degrees. No thanks. The supercharger does a great job of heating the intake charge on its own. Leaving the coolant running through the TB defeats the purpose of having a cold air intake setup. I've never heard of anyone with a 3.4L having trouble with this mod. It's free, and is easily reversible if you encounter a problem.
You might be hesitant to touch your throttle body after a run to the store. My entire intake setup/TB after any trip remains cool to the touch.
The truck is running the smallest supercharger pulley that URD has to offer without meth/water injection. It runs like a champ. No check engine light. No ping. When I hit the gas from a standstill, the truck spins all through first and hooks up somewhere in the middle of second gear on new BFGs. EGT is roughly 1400 degrees. AFR in wide open throttle is at 12. Nothing to sweat about. I attribute the problem free nature of my setup to the TRD 7th injector cooling the intake charge, and the intake modifications I have done.
Whew. Sorry for the essay. I know the next request is for pictures so here they are:
Pictures:
$10 for a 10 foot roll of brushed aluminum from Home Depot:
More info on the Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Mod from known 3.4L Gurus on customtacos as well as YT:
"Cold air like sub freezing will not cause ice to form in the throttle body. Cold air like that does not hold moisture so there is nothing to freeze in the throttle body.
It is warm weather that you may have the icing problem. Like warm very humid air. When the air passes through the throttle plate it goes from an area of high pressure to low pressure. This does two things. First there is a dramtic temperature drop and it can be as much as 30-40 degrees. Next what ever moisture is in the air can condense out and the two things combined can cause throttle icing.
So, you are more likely to have throttle icing when it is warm out then when it is cold.
I have never heard of anyone having any problems with this mod. If by some remote chance you do, it is easy to reverse. It is not permanent.
Gadget"
"It won't hurt a damn thing. There are a lot of people that have the coolant bypassed. I've had mine bypassed for at least a year. Noli's is bypassed. Xtrapsi has had his bypassed for a long time as well.
You guys have to remember---running coolant through the throttle body or carb is a relatively "new" thing at least in the automotive world. We never had this in the past and it worked just fine.
I did the bypass on my truck because we are having problems (not me yet) with the newer "throttle by wire" throttle bodies and I have a sneaking suspicion it is heat related. The APPS and the TPS are both plastic and I think the heat is having an adverse effect on them. The second reason is because when I got my system up and running, I happened to touch my throttle body and it was hot as hell. I thought to myself that I had invested close to 1K in a WI system to, for one thing, help cool the intake charge and yet I was pulling air through a heated throttle body that was at 190 degrees. I thought this just wasn't right so I did the mod and the throttle body stays nice and cool now.
Did I gain any performance? I really have no idea. I kinda doubt it but then again maybe. It does make me feel better that the throttle body with all it's plastic parts is now running cool and I have done everything I can within reason to cool the air charge and the combustion chambers.
TRDOLMAN"
Dyno proven gains sworn by the LS1 and Honda crowd:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/tb-dyno.htm
http://www.ultimateresourceguides.com/content/freemods/dyno1.jpg
BTLFED - The satoshi replaces the center of the grille with a mesh that is far inset to give what I consider a deep agressive look. I love that part about the satoshi. What I don't like is the amount of time it takes to work with fiberglass and bondo. Nor do I care for how messy the process is. Instead of using fiberglass to fill the areas I cut out, I used a two part epoxy putty that is available for a whopping $2 a tube at your local Home Depot. You knead the two parts together to activate the epoxy, fill the holes, mold it accordingly, wait an hour, and sand it down. It's as simple as that... AND it bonds stronger than the original plastic. Along the same lines, it eliminates the need for mounting screws for the metal mesh. Just use epoxy to bond the metal mesh to the underlying plastic. You might have seen this on TV as "Mighty Putty" I forget the name of the stuff at home depot, but it's basically the same for cheaper.
The mesh will be painted bbq black. Never cared for the emblem or T-O-Y-O-T-A spelled out in caps and dashes. The surrounding plastic will be smooth and painted silver to match the rest of the truck.
mikeinthehouse - I have an open cone intake similar to the K&N that many say is a POS at best. The benefit to this setup is increased airflow. The area surrounding the intake is restrictive to say the least, and that is why removing the intake elbow in the passenger fender is known to increase power. The downfall is that it sucks in hot underhood air... for which, I have done the following:
The supercharger generates a TON of underhood heat. To address this issue, I vented my hood scoop, and removed sheet metal surrounding the headlight to allow for more ambient airflow into the intake area. You can't really see it in the pictures, but a significant portion of the sheet metal was removed from under the headlight as well. I drilled four 1" holes in the exterior panel under the headlight, which I subsequently inserted hollow 1" rubber grommits for aesthetics. To keep rust out I used touch up paint and sealed the edges of the grommits with silicone. It gives the truck an aggressive demeanor and sets it apart from the rest of the 4runners in town. The intake came with a useless metal heatshield. I used pliable brushed aluminum to completely wrap the intake heat shield so that no underhood heat can seep in.
To top everything off I did the throttle body coolant bypass mod. The next time you pop the hood, take a look at the throttle body. There are two rubber lines running through the bottom of it. Normally, coolant runs through the throttle body heating it up to 200 degrees. No thanks. The supercharger does a great job of heating the intake charge on its own. Leaving the coolant running through the TB defeats the purpose of having a cold air intake setup. I've never heard of anyone with a 3.4L having trouble with this mod. It's free, and is easily reversible if you encounter a problem.
You might be hesitant to touch your throttle body after a run to the store. My entire intake setup/TB after any trip remains cool to the touch.
The truck is running the smallest supercharger pulley that URD has to offer without meth/water injection. It runs like a champ. No check engine light. No ping. When I hit the gas from a standstill, the truck spins all through first and hooks up somewhere in the middle of second gear on new BFGs. EGT is roughly 1400 degrees. AFR in wide open throttle is at 12. Nothing to sweat about. I attribute the problem free nature of my setup to the TRD 7th injector cooling the intake charge, and the intake modifications I have done.
Whew. Sorry for the essay. I know the next request is for pictures so here they are:
Pictures:
$10 for a 10 foot roll of brushed aluminum from Home Depot:
More info on the Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Mod from known 3.4L Gurus on customtacos as well as YT:
"Cold air like sub freezing will not cause ice to form in the throttle body. Cold air like that does not hold moisture so there is nothing to freeze in the throttle body.
It is warm weather that you may have the icing problem. Like warm very humid air. When the air passes through the throttle plate it goes from an area of high pressure to low pressure. This does two things. First there is a dramtic temperature drop and it can be as much as 30-40 degrees. Next what ever moisture is in the air can condense out and the two things combined can cause throttle icing.
So, you are more likely to have throttle icing when it is warm out then when it is cold.
I have never heard of anyone having any problems with this mod. If by some remote chance you do, it is easy to reverse. It is not permanent.
Gadget"
"It won't hurt a damn thing. There are a lot of people that have the coolant bypassed. I've had mine bypassed for at least a year. Noli's is bypassed. Xtrapsi has had his bypassed for a long time as well.
You guys have to remember---running coolant through the throttle body or carb is a relatively "new" thing at least in the automotive world. We never had this in the past and it worked just fine.
I did the bypass on my truck because we are having problems (not me yet) with the newer "throttle by wire" throttle bodies and I have a sneaking suspicion it is heat related. The APPS and the TPS are both plastic and I think the heat is having an adverse effect on them. The second reason is because when I got my system up and running, I happened to touch my throttle body and it was hot as hell. I thought to myself that I had invested close to 1K in a WI system to, for one thing, help cool the intake charge and yet I was pulling air through a heated throttle body that was at 190 degrees. I thought this just wasn't right so I did the mod and the throttle body stays nice and cool now.
Did I gain any performance? I really have no idea. I kinda doubt it but then again maybe. It does make me feel better that the throttle body with all it's plastic parts is now running cool and I have done everything I can within reason to cool the air charge and the combustion chambers.
TRDOLMAN"
Dyno proven gains sworn by the LS1 and Honda crowd:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/tb-dyno.htm
http://www.ultimateresourceguides.com/content/freemods/dyno1.jpg
Last edited:
I was about to say the TB coolant bypass is nothing new. Honda people have done it for years. Actually, because of the Turbo on my CRX with my swap and nitrous, I have had the bypass done on it for years. I have never had any problems with it. I didn't know this was a common thing on 4Runners also.
QSVeilside, are there any benefits to doing that on an N/A 4Runner?
QSVeilside, are there any benefits to doing that on an N/A 4Runner?
QSVeilside
New member
BTLFED said:
Yep, this mod has been around for awhile. The dynos that I posted earlier were done on NA vehicles I believe. To put things into perspective, exhaust adds 1-3 rwhp on our trucks NA. Considering this gave the LS1 6 rwhp, and the Honda 3 rwhp, you can estimate that the gain for this truck is probably around 4 rwhp.
The important thing to consider is that the LS1 dyno shows a comparison run that was done while the car was HEAT SOAKED. There was no loss of power. I find this pretty amazing considering I've done a heat soaked run on my truck on the dyno with the 2.1" pulley and lost 6 rwhp before doing this mod. I'll test it again when I jump on the dyno next time, (expecting to have somewhere around 275 rwhp & 310 rwtq).
Mr. Dabadina
New member
QSVeilside said:
So are you going to just mesh the front grill and not put an emblem on?
mikehinthehouse
New member
that is BAD @$$ QSVeilside... really that is sick... I will have to bypass mine as well.. Im N/A but from what I read it cant hurt...
:biggrin2:
:biggrin2:
QSVeilside
New member
I'm all for free hp mods. :bigok:
I'm scheduled to hit the dyno next Tuesday.
Since the last dyno run with the 2.1" pulley, I have added the following:
URD 2.0" pulley - at least a 10 rwhp difference
TRD headers - roughly 10 rwhp difference
TB bypass mod - expecting roughly 4 rwhp
URD lightweight crankshaft pulley - 5rwhp is a safe bet
Volk lightweight wheels - this is a wild card - 11 lbs of rotational weight lightened from the rear wheels will accelerate the dyno roller faster than before which will be read as more torque.
I may be overly optimistic. Good or bad numbers, I will post the results on this forum for your review.
Once you get the supercharger, adding power is very easy. You can get URD pulleys for as little as $95 new or $60 used. The torque increase down low is insane with each pulley upgrade. For instance:
2.1" pulley over the 2.2" pulley yields:
18 rwhp increase @ 3750 rpm
26 rwtq increase @ 2650 rpm
Dyno of a 99 Taco: Disregard max hp number - 125 shot nos on top of 2.1" pulley.
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25562&d=1177964559
Anyways, with the above in mind, a 10 rwhp estimate going from the 2.1" pulley to the 2.0" pulley is VERY conservative in my opinion - especially with the heat soak issue addressed. I'll keep you folks posted.
Dabadina - No emblems. All plastic surfaces will be painted silver - in contrast to the chrome finish on the original with black paint on the medial/inward facing surfaces. There will be no mounting screws visible. Furthermore, the material used is not fiberglass/bondo. These are reasons why I consider it a "spin-off" of the original. Sure, the concept is the same - which is why it is still a Satoshi.
I'm scheduled to hit the dyno next Tuesday.
Since the last dyno run with the 2.1" pulley, I have added the following:
URD 2.0" pulley - at least a 10 rwhp difference
TRD headers - roughly 10 rwhp difference
TB bypass mod - expecting roughly 4 rwhp
URD lightweight crankshaft pulley - 5rwhp is a safe bet
Volk lightweight wheels - this is a wild card - 11 lbs of rotational weight lightened from the rear wheels will accelerate the dyno roller faster than before which will be read as more torque.
I may be overly optimistic. Good or bad numbers, I will post the results on this forum for your review.
Once you get the supercharger, adding power is very easy. You can get URD pulleys for as little as $95 new or $60 used. The torque increase down low is insane with each pulley upgrade. For instance:
2.1" pulley over the 2.2" pulley yields:
18 rwhp increase @ 3750 rpm
26 rwtq increase @ 2650 rpm
Dyno of a 99 Taco: Disregard max hp number - 125 shot nos on top of 2.1" pulley.
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25562&d=1177964559
Anyways, with the above in mind, a 10 rwhp estimate going from the 2.1" pulley to the 2.0" pulley is VERY conservative in my opinion - especially with the heat soak issue addressed. I'll keep you folks posted.
Dabadina - No emblems. All plastic surfaces will be painted silver - in contrast to the chrome finish on the original with black paint on the medial/inward facing surfaces. There will be no mounting screws visible. Furthermore, the material used is not fiberglass/bondo. These are reasons why I consider it a "spin-off" of the original. Sure, the concept is the same - which is why it is still a Satoshi.
