Thinking of getting a Currie AntiRock Bar for rear... Opinions?

Skidmarcx

New member
Like the title says I've been thinking of getting a Currie AntiRock Bar for more stability on the trails... It would replace the rear sway bar... Doesn't look that difficult to install there is plenty of room on the rear section of the frame... Even on top since I've got a 1" body lift... Would just need to weld the tube onto the frame and tabs on the backside of the axle. Thoughts?

Here is the kit I'm looking at... They offer different arm lengths as well
Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts
 
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Like the title says I've been thinking of getting a Currie AntiRock Bar for more stability on the trails... It would replace the rear sway bar... Doesn't look that difficult to install there is plenty of room on the rear section of the frame... Even on top since I've got a 1" body lift... Would just need to weld the tube onto the frame and tabs on the backside of the axle. Thoughts?

Here is the kit I'm looking at... They offer different arm lengths as well
Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts

It's interesting, but I'm not sure what exactly you would gain?
 
I currently remove my sway bar for trails and while it's great for articulation I'm looking to restore some stability and predictability... These sway bars are designed for lots of articulation and soft spring rates like that of LC springs. They also have several stiffness settings for street use as well... Curious if anyone has experience with them
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but torsion bars aren't sway bars.

Like stated above, fab up a set of QD endlinks for your sway bar, and be done with it.

Edit:

Went through and read it again.

Still wouldn't run one. They're designed for buggies and highly modded rigs. That, and our axles are a little wider than 45". Where would you run it to, the inside of the frame? That would kind of negate what you had planned on it doing, wouldn't it?

What do you mean "stability and predictability"?

I never have a problem wheeling. Full stuff or not, in perfectly stable and very predictable. The scary part for me is DDing.

But maybe that's because I'm sitting on 63" Chevy leafs........
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but torsion bars aren't sway bars.

Like stated above, fab up a set of QD endlinks for your sway bar, and be done with it.

Edit:

Went through and read it again.

Still wouldn't run one. They're designed for buggies and highly modded rigs. That, and our axles are a little wider than 45". Where would you run it to, the inside of the frame? That would kind of negate what you had planned on it doing, wouldn't it?

What do you mean "stability and predictability"?

I never have a problem wheeling. Full stuff or not, in perfectly stable and very predictable. The scary part for me is DDing.

But maybe that's because I'm sitting on 63" Chevy leafs........

Exactly why I'm asking for input... I just feel that sometimes articulation isn't everything... I've been in some "tippy" situations where I wasn't sure when the weight would suddenly shift. If I'm reading correctly these bars will aid in weight distribution and keep a lot of my articulation. They offer different length bars I'm sure one would fit our application. This is basically how I'm looking to install it

Building A Custom Currie Antirock Sway Bar - 4 Wheel Drive & Sport Utility Magazine
 
The stock rear swaybar will also allow a lot of articulation and it's free (assuming you haven't thrown it away yet).
 
Exactly why I'm asking for input... I just feel that sometimes articulation isn't everything... I've been in some "tippy" situations where I wasn't sure when the weight would suddenly shift. If I'm reading correctly these bars will aid in weight distribution and keep a lot of my articulation. They offer different length bars I'm sure one would fit our application. This is basically how I'm looking to install it

Building A Custom Currie Antirock Sway Bar - 4 Wheel Drive & Sport Utility Magazine

The reality is QD allows you the best possible on road body roll management because you have an actual sway bar. (For the record, a sway bar is made of spring steel and ACTS in many ways like a torsion bar)

That said the benefits of the Anti-rock are the different settings, where you can have the best compromise without having to disconnect. In 22 years of wheeling I've watched people fight the quick disconnects and I know it's not for me.

I unbolted my original links to wheel a few times on my Land Cruiser. After a few trips I just didn't bolt them back on, and unbolted the bars. I can get away with it because I have leaf springs. With Coils you really need some help.

The past few years several of my friends have switched to the Currie system on their heeps, and I know its the right move for them. They are capable trail rigs, and manageable on the road. One of my friends removes his electric locking sway bar, sold it, and almost offset the cost of the Currie. And his rig just plain works.

Just keep in mind, it's still a compromise of sorts, but one a lot of people end up very happy with.

:popcorn:
 
I unbolt the end links and secure them and the sway bars with zip ties when off roading. It is a simple 10-15 minute process. Turn front wheels all the way left for easy access to right side, al the way right for left side, zip zip, done. Rears are easy to see and access. Only downside? Your hands and knees get dirty.
 
I'm thinking about it for the reasons you stated plus, I have a Camburg LT kit. So I have no front sway bar. I drive aggressively and on mountain roads. The body lean is way more than I want but I don't have the rear sway bar hooked up right now because, I have broken the drivers side link again (3rd time now). Also under extreme articulation my link hits the the lower arm. The sway bar really needs to be forward of the rear axle for maximum effect but I don't think it's possible. I haven't really looked at it yet.
 
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do you know how many guys don't run a rear sway bar? if anything get a set of quick disconnects.

You do relize guys not running rear sway bar can also cause issues. When you are full articulated the body rolls a lot! Enough where your body could roll into some rocks or a tree on the trail. Also more chance of your center of gravity shifting causing the truck to come of its tires. Also keeps more even weight on both tires giving you better traction.

When you have the rear sway bar connected it keeps the truck level as much as possible which makes scary situations that much easier to clear.

Now to the OP if you have extended links or sway bar lift brackets you can stay connected and still get full flex.
 
Thanks for the input so far. I realize QDs are nice to have, but I don't see spending the money on them since I can remove my front links and the entire rear sway bar in 5 mins... Which is what I do on every run. I made my own links to match my lift and while it would be nice to leave the rear bar on I'm afraid I'll break it in high stress situations without limit straps. The Currie system looks like the answer to my concerns... Especially since our vehicles have a high CG...
 
Another option is Rock Equipment, PAC Racing, Kickass Offroad and a number of other companies all make kits like the Currie one so don't get stuck on it having to be a Currie bar.

Rock Equipment is a good budget friendly option and I have seen a bunch in use with good results. Available in 3" increments too where as others are only a few different lengths.

Lots of good tech to be found in here too: Sway Bar Tech??? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

I made my own sway bar out of an old Toyota torsion bar on my linked 1ton Toyota and it actually ended up working pretty darn well considering I had about $80 in material in it. More of a boredom project than anything to see if it would work, but it worked just fine and fixed a lot of the body roll issues I was having thanks to air shocks in back and very soft leaf packs in front.

Not sure how much benefit we would actually see going to a swaybar like these on a IFS 3rd gen simply because the front does not unload and twist the way a linked front or leaf sprung front will and end up transferring to the rear unloading as well, so tunability isnt as much of an issue and the stock one is already packaged relatively well and using extended rear sway bar links fixes a lot of the issues with the flex being limited by the stock links.

That said...trying new stuff and innovation is cool. Go for it.
 
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Another option is Rock Equipment, PAC Racing, Kickass Offroad and a number of other companies all make kits like the Currie one so don't get stuck on it having to be a Currie bar.

Rock Equipment is a good budget friendly option and I have seen a bunch in use with good results. Available in 3" increments too where as others are only a few different lengths.

Lots of good tech to be found in here too: Sway Bar Tech??? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

I made my own sway bar out of an old Toyota torsion bar on my linked 1ton Toyota and it actually ended up working pretty darn well considering I had about $80 in material in it. More of a boredom project than anything to see if it would work, but it worked just fine and fixed a lot of the body roll issues I was having thanks to air shocks in back and very soft leaf packs in front.

Not sure how much benefit we would actually see going to a swaybar like these on a IFS 3rd gen simply because the front does not unload and twist the way a linked front or leaf sprung front will and end up transferring to the rear unloading as well, so tunability isnt as much of an issue and the stock one is already packaged relatively well and using extended rear sway bar links fixes a lot of the issues with the flex being limited by the stock links.

That said...trying new stuff and innovation is cool. Go for it.

Thanks for the suggestion... Yea the front is a lost cause I'm planning on doing a SAS, so for now I'm just planning on doing a rear bar setup
 
I'd do it. There is nothing wrong with running that setup and besides QDs are a pain in the ass to deal with. At least with that system it's an install and forget it type deal. The factory sway-bar is superior in no way except it's free. It's also a piece of shit. Using QDs on the rear can result in shoving your sway bar into your fuel tank and other fun stuff if you flex it out. Which is pretty not awesome.
 
I'd do it. There is nothing wrong with running that setup and besides QDs are a pain in the ass to deal with. At least with that system it's an install and forget it type deal. The factory sway-bar is superior in no way except it's free. It's also a piece of shit. Using QDs on the rear can result in shoving your sway bar into your fuel tank and other fun stuff if you flex it out. Which is pretty not awesome.

Well said... Lol
 
I'd do it. There is nothing wrong with running that setup and besides QDs are a pain in the ass to deal with. At least with that system it's an install and forget it type deal. The factory sway-bar is superior in no way except it's free. It's also a piece of shit. Using QDs on the rear can result in shoving your sway bar into your fuel tank and other fun stuff if you flex it out. Which is pretty not awesome.

Well, not your fuel tank.
 
Scroll down to see a super clean Currie AntiRock setup on meticulous 3rd gen runner and the builders rationale for install. If you put it together like this you have got to know whats going on:

"Petey" Frontier 4x4's 3rd Gen 4Runner - Page 3 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Although that is a very nice rig. It's not comparable to the OP's, and things are not the same. You really can't compare how a 3rd gen with SAS, full width axles, and custom 9" housings from Trail Gear to a factory rear axle with IFS.
 

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