This is why you need an ODB2 scanner

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AntleredRuin

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This is why you need an ODB2 temp reader

I got a cheap Bluetooth ODB2 dongle and the Torque app a few months ago and use the Dashboard plugin so my gauges show above my GPS on my phone. I usually just have MPGs and temps showing. Glad I got them.

Ever since I flipped my thermostat to have the jiggle valve at 6, I've had engine temps consistently between 183 and 188. Yesterday, after flooring it to merge into traffic, I noticed that my temps were rising. Within a few minutes I was at 195. I knew something was wrong, so I pulled into a parking lot and popped the hood. Of course I forgot a before picture, but there was a big ole' crack right at the top of my radiator. Coolant spewing everywhere. Well shit. Kept a close eye on the temps and drove to a Wal-Mart across the street. When I pulled in, I was around 203. Still well within the 'safe zone'.
Went into Wal-mart, got a tube of Steel Weld and a jug of Zerex coolant and patched it up. The radiator cooled enough to touch while I was in Wal-Mart, and I waited about 45 minutes to the Steel Weld to cure fully. Topped it off with the Zerex, and temps back down to 185. I made the 32 mile drive home without issue. Never got higher than 188.

axgxhl.jpg


It's the stock radiator and I'm at 169k, so I guess I was due. I already have a tranny cooler in bypass, so I knew that was safe.

New Koyo radiator ordered.


So all of this happened, and my dummy dash gauge did not move a bit. I forget the exact temp it starts to move, but it really is pointless. Pretty much, if the gauge moves at all above mid-level, turn the truck off, as you're already risking damaging the engine.

With the torque app, I knew something was happening 30 or so degrees before it was really even an issue. Hell, I saw temps of 203 semi-regularly before I flipped my thermostat. If I didn't have the app, I may very well have had to call a tow truck yesterday, if only because by the time I noticed the issue I was too low on coolant to safely limp to a car/hardware store.
 
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AntleredRuin said:
I got a cheap Bluetooth ODB2 dongle and the Torque app a few months ago and use the Dashboard plugin so my gauges show above my GPS on my phone. I usually just have MPGs and temps showing. Glad I got them.

Ever since I flipped my thermostat to have the jiggle valve at 6, I've had engine temps consistently between 183 and 188. Yesterday, after flooring it to merge into traffic, I noticed that my temps were rising. Within a few minutes I was at 195. I knew something was wrong, so I pulled into a parking lot and popped the hood. Of course I forgot a before picture, but there was a big ole' crack right at the top of my radiator. Coolant spewing everywhere. Well shit. Kept a close eye on the temps and drove to a Wal-Mart across the street. When I pulled in, I was around 203. Still well within the 'safe zone'.
Went into Wal-mart, got a tube of Steel Weld and a jug of Zerex coolant and patched it up. The radiator cooled enough to touch while I was in Wal-Mart, and I waited about 45 minutes to the Steel Weld to cure fully. Topped it off with the Zerex, and temps back down to 185. I made the 32 mile drive home without issue. Never got higher than 188.

axgxhl.jpg


It's the stock radiator and I'm at 169k, so I guess I was due. I already have a tranny cooler in bypass, so I knew that was safe.

New Koyo radiator ordered.


So all of this happened, and my dummy dash gauge did not move a bit. I forget the exact temp it starts to move, but it really is pointless. Pretty much, if the gauge moves at all above mid-level, turn the truck off, as you're already risking damaging the engine.

With the torque app, I knew something was happening 30 or so degrees before it was really even an issue. Hell, I saw temps of 203 semi-regularly before I flipped my thermostat. If I didn't have the app, I may very well have had to call a tow truck yesterday, if only because by the time I noticed the issue I was too low on coolant to safely limp to a car/hardware store.
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Good catch man!

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Great. I've said it before but on the earlier 3rd gens the coolant lines underneath back to the rear seat heater rust out and eventually will burst coolant out catastrophically. On one of my runners this happened while my mom was driving and it overheated with the gauge going into the red zone. She was smart enough to call a tow. We probably screwed up t e head gasket which will eventually get worse. Really dumb design by Toyota, unnecessary way to wreck an engine.

On my other 4runner that line broke through last month while I was poking around under the car in the garage so zero damage done there. Whew.

Later 3rd gens use aluminum for those lines.
 
psraff said:
Good catch man!

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks! Yeah, luckily it happened during my lunch break, so it really didn't even get in the way of my day. I just had to let my boss know I'd be an extra 15 minutes.

Mark_BC said:
Great. I've said it before but on the earlier 3rd gens the coolant lines underneath back to the rear seat heater rust out and eventually will burst coolant out catastrophically. On one of my runners this happened while my mom was driving and it overheated with the gauge going into the red zone. She was smart enough to call a tow. We probably screwed up t e head gasket which will eventually get worse. Really dumb design by Toyota, unnecessary way to wreck an engine.

On my other 4runner that line broke through last month while I was poking around under the car in the garage so zero damage done there. Whew.

Later 3rd gens use aluminum for those lines.
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What years do you mean by 'early'? 96-98?
I have a 99 without rear heater so I'm safe, regardless, but it's still good info to know.
 
All of my 4Runners but the 96 that got wrecked I bypassed the heater lines. Don't use the seat heater anyway. The 96 lines were stainless all the way down if I remember correctly. Will remove them before scraping it


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JWaldz said:
You wont see the coolant temp gauge on the dash move until around 220, which I think is stupid.
Click to expand...

Its not stupid because than everyone and there momma would bring in there truck to the dealer when its hitting over 200*. Temps can hold 220* without causing major damage. My talon hits this at the track all the time. 230* up your looking at engine failure.
 
Good thing you were able to contain the damage to a minimum

The guy that recharged my AC system took one look at my radiator and said "see all those little crack-looking things, that means it's time to replace it before it blows"

I'm installing a new Denso today
 
JayRolla said:
Its not stupid because than everyone and there momma would bring in there truck to the dealer when its hitting over 200*. Temps can hold 220* without causing major damage. My talon hits this at the track all the time. 230* up your looking at engine failure.
Click to expand...

There does need to be a better range in movement, at least, though. Not just 'cold', 'normal', and 'you're ****ed; buy a new engine'.

I've not driven anything new in several years, but I'm assuming that most new vehicles still use the dummy gauge. I think it's time to move to either a 'real' gauge, or a digital readout, like with our ODB2 sensors. Maybe even have the digital readout be color coded, or something. Green till around 205, then yellow till around 220, then red.


I'd think that dealers would actually like that, because it would give them a lot more business. If the average user is not aware that anything is 'wrong' with their vehicle, they're not going to bring it in.

Most people know that around 200 is pretty standard, so if they're all of a sudden reading 210 (or the hypothetical gauge turns yellow), they'd know something was up and take it to the shop. A dummy gauge won't show a bit of difference at 210. Even if all the shop does is a 'tune-up' (makes sure coolant is full, clean the radiator with condenser coil cleaner and a water hose, etc) they could still make some money. If they word the paperwork right, they could easily charge (scam) someone out of $125+ with minimal work.

It would also get the dealer's 'foot in the door' to recommend some repairs. New radiator, complete coolant flush, new t-stat, etc.

I get that dealers 'like' when engines overheat because then they get to sell extensive engine repairs, but honestly, how often does that happen? If they charged $125+ for a cooling system tune-up, I'd bet they could make well over $1000 a day.

Maybe have a dealer bulletin, or something like that, that lists standard operating temps depending on your altitude, etc. That way you don't have the time waster customers.


Edit: Am I really giving vehicle manufacturers/dealers ideas on how to scam more people?:doh:
 
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JayRolla said:
Its not stupid because than everyone and there momma would bring in there truck to the dealer when its hitting over 200*. Temps can hold 220* without causing major damage. My talon hits this at the track all the time. 230* up your looking at engine failure.
Click to expand...

I agree to an extent.. Had most (or all) vehicles had a better explained gauge than just some tick marks it would pay for itself. You're average Joe who is driving one of these might see the gauge move a little and freak out b/c it's not really explained well to the driver. All they knows is, it's moving outside of the norm. Therefor, they take it in.

Had there been an explained "range" (cold, normal, hot) on the gauge then people would freak out less if it began to move but was still within the "normal operating temp" range.
 
JWaldz said:
I agree to an extent.. Had most (or all) vehicles had a better explained gauge than just some tick marks it would pay for itself. You're average Joe who is driving one of these might see the gauge move a little and freak out b/c it's not really explained well to the driver. All they knows is, it's moving outside of the norm. Therefor, they take it in.

Had there been an explained "range" (cold, normal, hot) on the gauge then people would freak out less if it began to move but was still within the "normal operating temp" range.
Click to expand...

My wifes dads Hemi Ram has a gauge that shows 140 mark on low, 190 mark at middle and red at 240 mark. His gauge actually does fluctuate. I was very surprised when I did his water pump, radiator and thermostat.

He actually told me he brought it into a shop because he thought it was overheating. It never hit the red. they told him up to 230* is normal and not to worry until it hits the red. I told him if it gets near that mark to shut it off and call me.

It fluctuates so much that it will lower when running the heater as it cools the heater core.
 
I don't have the readout installed at the moment but the hardware is still installed. .... I have an extra temp sensor installed in the upper hose to give me a temp reading of the coolent between the engine and the rad. It always gave me a piece of mind to have an extra point of reading. Yes, it was an extra point of failure (hose clamps) but if you have a strong hose, it shouldn't be a problem.

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Not all actually. The mercedes benz temp gauge fluctuates. When the thermostat opens, the gauge goes down and then it slowly goes up until just before the thermostat opens. That way, you know that the thermostat is working plus you're aware of the engine operating temp range

JayRolla said:
Wonder why all manufacturers use the dummy gauge than. Must be a reason right?
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AntleredRuin said:
...
axgxhl.jpg
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For everyone else, the telltale sign the tank is Really old is the brown color, should be evenly gray, you'll see it in the new tank. Luck and enjoy, but I'd hook the trans cooler in the tank back inline to be in series with your external cooler to really control the trans temps. Luck and enjoy the runner! :cowboy:
 
This is the exact reason why I bought an Ultra gauge. I set an alarm to go off for the coolant temp at 210 degrees.

I've never seen my coolant temps above 195 for what its worth.
 
jgue467 said:
For everyone else, the telltale sign the tank is Really old is the brown color, should be evenly gray, you'll see it in the new tank. Luck and enjoy, but I'd hook the trans cooler in the tank back inline to be in series with your external cooler to really control the trans temps. Luck and enjoy the runner! :cowboy:
Click to expand...

Haha yeah, I knew it was old and due; I just have a lot of other other things to do. Front brakes (maybe FINALLY install my Sequoia Brakes I bought last year?) and replace a broken wheel stud so I can pass safety inspection next month, valve cover gaskets, front struts, and u-joints. I was hoping to do the radiator last as the temps were great, but I guess this got pushed to the top of the list.
I have a '99 so I can watch the tranny temps through Torque also, and I've never gotten over 165 so far. This will be my first summer with the app, so we'll see, but it's already been an ambient 95 a couple times so far this year and the tranny temps stay low. I'll probably leave it in bypass. I don't drive aggressively, and especially not until things are warmed up.
 
OK so my new Koyo A1998 radiator came in yesterday. I ordered from here:
Toyota 4Runner 1996 1997 1998-2002 2.7 L4 3.4 Radiator 1640075180 KoyoRad | eBay

About 25 hours from placing the order to showing up at my front door, so that's good. It looks like they have a warehouse in Houston.

It looks like it'll fit fine, but I'm concerned about the plastic housing:
10if3if.jpg


Is this how the Koyo A1998 should be, or did I get an 'offbrand' offbrand radiator?

The stock radiator is metal.
 
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