Full write up with pictures can be found here: 4runnerfamily.com
When deciding to buy and install a Daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer lift for my LE with XREAS, I realized that there really isn't too much info for doing this other than that it can be done. There is a lot of back and forth between not disconnecting the UBJ vs unbolting the bottom 2 bolts under the LBJ, etc. but again, nothing really on the actual install with XREAS. I wanted to share my experience which I hope will prove useful to others looking to take the same path as I did. Or maybe this thread will wither away into the abyss because no one cares for spacers.
So why did I go with a spacer lift when many say, oh just get the real deal the first time, scrap XREAS? Well, our XREAS is in perfectly good working order and still under warranty for one. We like the ride that it provides and this is still a primary DD vehicle. Because it's not used very often off-road (although my wife is hooked now), I wasn't too concerned about lifting without getting any extra travel...yet...but since we have the low hanging LE trim, I wanted to get a little more clearance. And lastly, I do all of my own work on our vehicles, so $120 for the spacers really wasn't much of a dent in our wallet. Since the install, I am very happy with it. It still rides like the stock XREAS, and we got that extra clearance we wanted. In our first outing off-road at the Rausch Creek 101 course, we never hit a skid while several of the jeeps were scraping. We also managed to keep the front lip safe too. As far as I'm concerned, this lift has done exactly what we need it to do for the time being.
I'd like to apologize in advance for not having pictures. I was in a time crunch while installing and forgot to snap pics along the way. I will post some pics later if I can find some that may help. This is also my first real instructional type post so sorry if it's not great. Oh, and do everything at your own risk.
Added link for reference until I embed photos. They're in the same order as they are referenced in the post I believe: Daystar Spacer Install - Google Photos
Before anything, crack the lugs on the fronts and then get both wheels off the ground. I was fortunate enough to have a lift, but Jack stands work too -- I actually did the rears on jackstands the next day (that time crunch again...). Remember you want to get it nice and high so there is room for the suspension to drop when disconnected. Remove the wheels.
Make sure you disconnect the the brackets for the ABS lines so you have more room to hang.
Disconnect your sway bar from the hub, and from the frame. To do this you will need to remove the front skid first, which is just a few bolts. I personally just let it hinge down, but you may prefer to completely remove it. Antman's oil change thread should identify the bolts for you if you are unsure. Daystar does not say to disconnect at the frame as far as I could tell but they are removing the entire unit from the vehicle, and since XREAS has the lines connected to the shocks, you need to be able to maneuver it in different ways to keep everything in tact. I just did one side at a time, so it was not fully disconnected.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_195149.jpg"</img>
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_195006.jpg"></img>
Next, remove the 3 nuts from the top of the strut mount. I would highly recommend ratcheting wrenches vs 3/8th socket ratchet for this. You will still likely be moving little by little but you’ll get there eventually.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_194818.jpg"></img>
From here I began to unbolt the bottom shock mount.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_194931.jpg"></img>
Once that bolt is removed, loosen the upper ball joint (UBJ). You will need to remove the cotter pin first, and then get to cranking. When the nut comes off, you will have to separate the joint. I did NOT use a BJ separator, just a hammer. I gave the UBJ some love taps on the side of it and it “popped” off. Make sure you don’t just let whole assembly freely drop.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_203409.jpg"></img>
Because I had a lift, I placed both legs under the hub and used them to cradle the assembly. If you can’t position yourself like that, you may want to get creative with a bungee cord or ask for an extra set of hands. At this point the suspension will be hanging pretty low and you should be able to start wiggling the strut out. Start with the bottom mount, and pull it towards you. Then you will want to start directing the bottom toward the sway bar (front of vehicle). Because you have loosened the bar, it should tuck down there pretty easily. DO NOT DISCONNECT AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVEREXTEND THE XREAS LINES.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_195234.jpg"></img>
Grab the top and start to pull that toward yourself, pushing up on the UCA so the strut will fit under it. You should now be in a perfect position to start assembling the Daystar products which is explained sufficiently in their documents.
Getting the strut back in is a little tougher now that it’s a couple inches taller, but it should still be pretty straight forward. You’ll have to start by getting the bottom aligned in it’s mount, and then push the top back into the strut mount (lifting up on the UCA). You may have to apply some downward pressure on the LCA to get the strut in. Once it’s back in place, bolt everything back up and repeat on the other side!
For the rears, the instructions from Daystar are sufficient since you really don’t need to move the rear shock much (just unbolting the bottom).
When you’re all done, sit back and admire
Don’t forget to get an alignment!
<img width = "50%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160604_122900.jpg"</img>
When deciding to buy and install a Daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer lift for my LE with XREAS, I realized that there really isn't too much info for doing this other than that it can be done. There is a lot of back and forth between not disconnecting the UBJ vs unbolting the bottom 2 bolts under the LBJ, etc. but again, nothing really on the actual install with XREAS. I wanted to share my experience which I hope will prove useful to others looking to take the same path as I did. Or maybe this thread will wither away into the abyss because no one cares for spacers.
So why did I go with a spacer lift when many say, oh just get the real deal the first time, scrap XREAS? Well, our XREAS is in perfectly good working order and still under warranty for one. We like the ride that it provides and this is still a primary DD vehicle. Because it's not used very often off-road (although my wife is hooked now), I wasn't too concerned about lifting without getting any extra travel...yet...but since we have the low hanging LE trim, I wanted to get a little more clearance. And lastly, I do all of my own work on our vehicles, so $120 for the spacers really wasn't much of a dent in our wallet. Since the install, I am very happy with it. It still rides like the stock XREAS, and we got that extra clearance we wanted. In our first outing off-road at the Rausch Creek 101 course, we never hit a skid while several of the jeeps were scraping. We also managed to keep the front lip safe too. As far as I'm concerned, this lift has done exactly what we need it to do for the time being.
I'd like to apologize in advance for not having pictures. I was in a time crunch while installing and forgot to snap pics along the way. I will post some pics later if I can find some that may help. This is also my first real instructional type post so sorry if it's not great. Oh, and do everything at your own risk.
Added link for reference until I embed photos. They're in the same order as they are referenced in the post I believe: Daystar Spacer Install - Google Photos
Before anything, crack the lugs on the fronts and then get both wheels off the ground. I was fortunate enough to have a lift, but Jack stands work too -- I actually did the rears on jackstands the next day (that time crunch again...). Remember you want to get it nice and high so there is room for the suspension to drop when disconnected. Remove the wheels.
Make sure you disconnect the the brackets for the ABS lines so you have more room to hang.
Disconnect your sway bar from the hub, and from the frame. To do this you will need to remove the front skid first, which is just a few bolts. I personally just let it hinge down, but you may prefer to completely remove it. Antman's oil change thread should identify the bolts for you if you are unsure. Daystar does not say to disconnect at the frame as far as I could tell but they are removing the entire unit from the vehicle, and since XREAS has the lines connected to the shocks, you need to be able to maneuver it in different ways to keep everything in tact. I just did one side at a time, so it was not fully disconnected.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_195149.jpg"</img>
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_195006.jpg"></img>
Next, remove the 3 nuts from the top of the strut mount. I would highly recommend ratcheting wrenches vs 3/8th socket ratchet for this. You will still likely be moving little by little but you’ll get there eventually.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_194818.jpg"></img>
From here I began to unbolt the bottom shock mount.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_194931.jpg"></img>
Once that bolt is removed, loosen the upper ball joint (UBJ). You will need to remove the cotter pin first, and then get to cranking. When the nut comes off, you will have to separate the joint. I did NOT use a BJ separator, just a hammer. I gave the UBJ some love taps on the side of it and it “popped” off. Make sure you don’t just let whole assembly freely drop.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_203409.jpg"></img>
Because I had a lift, I placed both legs under the hub and used them to cradle the assembly. If you can’t position yourself like that, you may want to get creative with a bungee cord or ask for an extra set of hands. At this point the suspension will be hanging pretty low and you should be able to start wiggling the strut out. Start with the bottom mount, and pull it towards you. Then you will want to start directing the bottom toward the sway bar (front of vehicle). Because you have loosened the bar, it should tuck down there pretty easily. DO NOT DISCONNECT AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVEREXTEND THE XREAS LINES.
<img width="40%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160610_195234.jpg"></img>
Grab the top and start to pull that toward yourself, pushing up on the UCA so the strut will fit under it. You should now be in a perfect position to start assembling the Daystar products which is explained sufficiently in their documents.
Getting the strut back in is a little tougher now that it’s a couple inches taller, but it should still be pretty straight forward. You’ll have to start by getting the bottom aligned in it’s mount, and then push the top back into the strut mount (lifting up on the UCA). You may have to apply some downward pressure on the LCA to get the strut in. Once it’s back in place, bolt everything back up and repeat on the other side!
For the rears, the instructions from Daystar are sufficient since you really don’t need to move the rear shock much (just unbolting the bottom).
When you’re all done, sit back and admire
Don’t forget to get an alignment!
<img width = "50%" src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12358189/IMG_20160604_122900.jpg"</img>
Last edited:
eace:
