those with LC coils, rear panhard/track bar mods?

There is a minor misnomer about the need of longer panhards. Longer/adjustable panhards are most useful when the suspension has longer droop travel than stock. For example, replacing springs and shocks with longer ones would require either repositioning the panhard(dropping) or buying an extended one (adjustable). Our vehicles was designed to perform within a certain range of motion. If you keep your stock shock length, then panhard adjustments are practically negligible. If you only replaced your springs to have higher frame ground clearance, then no extra mods should be needed. Brake lines, sways and links were all designed to comply with the range of motion provided by stock shocks. If you only replaced your springs, and nothing else, you should have no problems with your driveshaft.

However, if you decided to go "long travel" to the rear, then weighing the options between rear sway bar modding or panhard modding become important. The rear suspension has significantly more travel and articulation than the front suspension. To make it even longer, I would keep the sway bar and use an adjustable panhard. The sway bar affects cornering, while the panhard keeps the wheels driving true. In my opinion, it's wise to have the best of both worlds, perhaps even a quick disconnect sway bar.

Just passing on an idea.

Sorry forgot to mention that my Lc 9 wrap coils are paired with rancho shocks in the back. If I can get away with a drop bracket then id rather save some $$ on that since I have to buy new rear LCA's cause the bushing is bad on my right side. I just want to eliminate the lean towards the passenger side that my runner does when I accelerate. (mentioned in my previous thread that I started ) the problem of that lean may also be cause by the worn out bushing on my rear LCA's but might as well buy all the parts all at once so I can get it all aligned only once.
 
Sorry forgot to mention that my Lc 9 wrap coils are paired with rancho shocks in the back. If I can get away with a drop bracket then id rather save some $$ on that since I have to buy new rear LCA's cause the bushing is bad on my right side. I just want to eliminate the lean towards the passenger side that my runner does when I accelerate. (mentioned in my previous thread that I started ) the problem of that lean may also be cause by the worn out bushing on my rear LCA's but might as well buy all the parts all at once so I can get it all aligned only once.

It's a funky question, but do you know the change in droop/extension between your Rancho's and stock?

And another question, is your rear alignment adjustable? For most 3rd gens, unless the rear LCA's are adjustable, alignment is only done on the front. I'm just curious.
 
It's a funky question, but do you know the change in droop/extension between your Rancho's and stock?

And another question, is your rear alignment adjustable? For most 3rd gens, unless the rear LCA's are adjustable, alignment is only done on the front. I'm just curious.

No unfortunately I don't, when I bought the 4runner it had this setup already, planning to upgrade the rear with better shocks, but as far as I am reading these ones are best paired with it. I just find it too soft I get a lot of swaying while driving.

And you are right the last time I went for a alignment they said they didn't have to do the rear just the front.
 
extending the panhard bar is a poor way to correct the problem. the bracket on the axle should be extended upwards, this raises the roll center and make the side to side travel the same as stock. the drop bracket is a good option but it lowers the roll center, so sway is increased. the problem with raising or lowering the panhard bracket is there becomes an issue with clearance. heres the formula for axle shift. √(37²−lift²) the pan hard is about 37 inches long. anyways even on my 5" lift the shift is neglagable. the real issue is the effect on tracking when the axles moves down over a bump.

@op you say an inch, do you mean the right side sticks out an inch further than the left or the entire axle is moved over one inch. i have 5" rear lift with lx coils and i noticed about a half inch of axle movement.


So your vote is to extend the mounting point on the axel????
 
Hoping for a thread revival. I have some 8 wrap and some lc shocks sitting in my garage waiting for a front lift and the time to install it. For the time being I have been buying up parts I have deemed necessary for this lift.

The one big thing I can't decide on is the panhard bar. I don't plan on having too much weight on my rear end to start with, but hopefully down the road I will have a constant 200lbs in the rear and my lift is around 3.5". Do you all find it necessary to do the panhard bar and potentially risk damaging the gas tank with the driveshaft? Or should I just buy the small weldable add on? Or stick with stock and deal with the off tracking?

It seems whichever way I go there is a negative quality to it. I may just opt out and shrink my lift if it becomes too complicated since this is also my DD.

Any other help would be appreciated. I have google searched it multiple times but haven't found a too recent opinion. I am hoping there are some new findings out there that will help a guy make a decision.
 
Hoping for a thread revival. I have some 8 wrap and some lc shocks sitting in my garage waiting for a front lift and the time to install it. For the time being I have been buying up parts I have deemed necessary for this lift.

The one big thing I can't decide on is the panhard bar. I don't plan on having too much weight on my rear end to start with, but hopefully down the road I will have a constant 200lbs in the rear and my lift is around 3.5". Do you all find it necessary to do the panhard bar and potentially risk damaging the gas tank with the driveshaft? Or should I just buy the small weldable add on? Or stick with stock and deal with the off tracking?

It seems whichever way I go there is a negative quality to it. I may just opt out and shrink my lift if it becomes too complicated since this is also my DD.

Any other help would be appreciated. I have google searched it multiple times but haven't found a too recent opinion. I am hoping there are some new findings out there that will help a guy make a decision.
[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] is a member on here who sells a drop/raise bracket kit which is "adjustable" from stock to 4" i believe, he has a sale thread somewhere.
 
[MENTION=51233]Mauzer[/MENTION] [MENTION=34676]Elton H[/MENTION] I have LC coils in the rear, with the Sonoran Steel Extended Panhard bar, and I also have customized extended sway bar end links. Sway is minimal after the extended end links and I absolutely love the way it performs both on & off road. There are a lot of factors to consider when thinking about removing the sway bar, adding extended end links, panhard drop brackets, extended panhard bars... the list goes on. Just my 0.02. I also have a 2001 4X4, just to add
 
Hoping for a thread revival. I have some 8 wrap and some lc shocks sitting in my garage waiting for a front lift and the time to install it. For the time being I have been buying up parts I have deemed necessary for this lift.

The one big thing I can't decide on is the panhard bar. I don't plan on having too much weight on my rear end to start with, but hopefully down the road I will have a constant 200lbs in the rear and my lift is around 3.5". Do you all find it necessary to do the panhard bar and potentially risk damaging the gas tank with the driveshaft? Or should I just buy the small weldable add on? Or stick with stock and deal with the off tracking?

It seems whichever way I go there is a negative quality to it. I may just opt out and shrink my lift if it becomes too complicated since this is also my DD.

Any other help would be appreciated. I have google searched it multiple times but haven't found a too recent opinion. I am hoping there are some new findings out there that will help a guy make a decision.

The issue is exaggerated in my opinion. I run lc coils, shocks, adjustable panhard bar, extended sway bar links and sway bar relocation.

My truck drives great on and off road. No sway on highway. Only time I feel the bump sway is on a speedbumb and it's still minor. The stock setup naturally sways when hitting a bump do to design.

To correct the bar the right way look into this. But even if you didn't get the adjustable or the phb drop/lift I would not let it scare you from the lc coil lift. I love the ride of them and performance off-road I would not run any other coil.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...eimkeith-pck-panhard-correction-kits-$86.html
 
The issue is exaggerated in my opinion. I run lc coils, shocks, adjustable panhard bar, extended sway bar links and sway bar relocation.

My truck drives great on and off road. No sway on highway. Only time I feel the bump sway is on a speedbumb and it's still minor. The stock setup naturally sways when hitting a bump do to design.

To correct the bar the right way look into this. But even if you didn't get the adjustable or the phb drop/lift I would not let it scare you from the lc coil lift. I love the ride of them and performance off-road I would not run any other coil.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...eimkeith-pck-panhard-correction-kits-$86.html

[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION]- Really appreciate the comment. It has gained my confidence to stick with the 8 wraps I have and continue the search for the 3" front lift to go along with them. I may add the extended sway bar links and relocation to my list of suspension mods now as well. Thanks again
 
[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION]- Really appreciate the comment. It has gained my confidence to stick with the 8 wraps I have and continue the search for the 3" front lift to go along with them. I may add the extended sway bar links and relocation to my list of suspension mods now as well. Thanks again

Most likely be okay with just extending the links and not relocating. [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] makes some good ones.
 

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