Timing belt and water pump change for a newbie!

[Amirocassar]

Hey guys I got my 02 4Runner back in January and I'm close to hitting 180k, it was at 172k about when I bought it and I don't believe the timing belt or water pump was ever changed. My reason for this is because when I changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires months ago they were all OEM definitely. Maybe the guy went with OEM but I doubt it because they were so worn down and dirty it looked like it was from 12 years ago. So I'm planning on doing the water pump and timing belt myself since it's nearly 800 dollars at pepboys(I asked just to see how outrageous it would be) and 900 at the stealership. So if anyone's done this before could you help me out by any hints, recommendations of tools, and etc? I know I need a torque wrench and I also heard a pulley holder but wasn't sure on what else. (All the obvious I own already, sockets and drivers, etc).

Also I found a kit on ebay that says it's all OEM parts, but I'm not totally familiar with all the manufacturers toyota used. I know they used denso and obviously NGK but I didn't see these brands on the parts but it's 150 bucks cheaper than getting it from the auto store and I'm getting extra stuff. So could anybody give me their opinion please? Would be much appreciated. I just can't afford to pay to have it done

Thanks!!

Toyota 3 4L V6 Complete Timing Belt Water Pump Kit | eBay

^this one comes with the other belts so I'm thinking of going that route just to have them on hand, I have to check to see if they were changed but I believe they were. But either way I'll be hitting the belt changing mark soon anyway


Complete V6 3 4 Timing Belt Kit Water Pump Genuine OE Manufacture Parts | eBay


Thanks!!!

 

[LittleCaesar]

I'd go with the more complete kit. Less to change down the road.

this should get you going:
Timing Belt and Water-Pump Replacement

 

[TheDurk]

^^^^Agree. Here is my favorite DIY.

http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-article-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

And here is my holding tool (instructions available on request):

 

[kingin]

Easy job, especially with the great write ups from the forum members. I bought the oem eBay kit and replaced the bearing as we'll so I didn't need the bearing tool.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=231029498024

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Easy job, especially with the great write ups from the forum members. I bought the oem eBay kit and replaced the bearing as we'll so I didn't need the bearing tool.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=231029498024

You mean the hydraulic tensioner, right?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Hey guys I got my 02 4Runner back in January and I'm close to hitting 180k, it was at 172k about when I bought it and I don't believe the timing belt or water pump was ever changed. My reason for this is because when I changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires months ago they were all OEM definitely. Maybe the guy went with OEM but I doubt it because they were so worn down and dirty it looked like it was from 12 years ago. So I'm planning on doing the water pump and timing belt myself since it's nearly 800 dollars at pepboys(I asked just to see how outrageous it would be) and 900 at the stealership. So if anyone's done this before could you help me out by any hints, recommendations of tools, and etc? I know I need a torque wrench and I also heard a pulley holder but wasn't sure on what else. (All the obvious I own already, sockets and drivers, etc).

Also I found a kit on ebay that says it's all OEM parts, but I'm not totally familiar with all the manufacturers toyota used. I know they used denso and obviously NGK but I didn't see these brands on the parts but it's 150 bucks cheaper than getting it from the auto store and I'm getting extra stuff. So could anybody give me their opinion please? Would be much appreciated. I just can't afford to pay to have it done

Thanks!!

Toyota 3 4L V6 Complete Timing Belt Water Pump Kit | eBay

^this one comes with the other belts so I'm thinking of going that route just to have them on hand, I have to check to see if they were changed but I believe they were. But either way I'll be hitting the belt changing mark soon anyway


Complete V6 3 4 Timing Belt Kit Water Pump Genuine OE Manufacture Parts | eBay


Thanks!!!

The 1st kit has the hydraulic tensioner, eliminating the need for the special tool that relieves the tension on the belt so you can put a pin in the tensioner. That's a good kit.


Check out some of the write-ups. There's some good stuff to be learned before getting after this all day.


Couple of pointers:

1. Remove the radiator. It just gives more room and eliminates the possibility of damaging it. Is yours an AUTO? You may want to consider replacing that too.

2. The more tools the better. For example I was able to remove the tensioner with various 1/4 drive, long wobble extension and a universal. Saved me about 45 minutes doing this job.

3. Consider using the breaker bar method against the driver's side frame rail to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (arguably the toughest part of the job) I had a 3/4 drive impact, which made quick work of that bolt (with the radiator out)

4. Replace all those seals the kit comes with. Some don't replace them because they're not leaking but with your mileage, it's should be done. Take care in doing it though, as you don't want to create a bigger problem. Slow, easy, and even putting them in.

5. Putting the belt back on takes a little finesse. I kept getting it off by one tooth . (can't remember if it was retarded or advanced) I finally turned the CS pulley back a little and then went around putting the belt on ( leave your new idler pulley a little loose) and it lined right up. Don't "pull the pin" on the tensioner until your sure you have the belt right. You know it's right when you can turn the CS pulley 720 degrees and the PULLEY marks line up (not the belt marks)


That's all I can think of now. Read those write-ups and good luck.

 

[kingin]

Lol yes I mean tensioner, and you will need a swivel and a couple extensions to reach bolt holding tensioner in. Also a strong air impact gun worked great for removal of crankshaft bolt for me. I also replaced the crankshaft bolt only 3-5 bucks from the dealer. Get your self some toyota fipk or I like my honda bond put a very thin coating on the water pump/thermostat gaskets added insurance, don't know if it's ok or not but I did.

Take your time and enjoy how easy the job is on a 4runner.

 

[Amirocassar]

The 1st kit has the hydraulic tensioner, eliminating the need for the special tool that relieves the tension on the belt so you can put a pin in the tensioner. That's a good kit.


Check out some of the write-ups. There's some good stuff to be learned before getting after this all day.


Couple of pointers:

1. Remove the radiator. It just gives more room and eliminates the possibility of damaging it. Is yours an AUTO? You may want to consider replacing that too.

2. The more tools the better. For example I was able to remove the tensioner with various 1/4 drive, long wobble extension and a universal. Saved me about 45 minutes doing this job.

3. Consider using the breaker bar method against the driver's side frame rail to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (arguably the toughest part of the job) I had a 3/4 drive impact, which made quick work of that bolt (with the radiator out)

4. Replace all those seals the kit comes with. Some don't replace them because they're not leaking but with your mileage, it's should be done. Take care in doing it though, as you don't want to create a bigger problem. Slow, easy, and even putting them in.

5. Putting the belt back on takes a little finesse. I kept getting it off by one tooth . (can't remember if it was retarded or advanced) I finally turned the CS pulley back a little and then went around putting the belt on ( leave your new idler pulley a little loose) and it lined right up. Don't "pull the pin" on the tensioner until your sure you have the belt right. You know it's right when you can turn the CS pulley 720 degrees and the PULLEY marks line up (not the belt marks)


That's all I can think of now. Read those write-ups and good luck.

Thanks to all for the replies, but especially to you John! Very helpful! Yeah I think I'll just get a pulley holder and possibly a torque wrench or just loan one from the store. So about your 5th tip, you're talking about knowing that it's right when the pulley marks line up. How's that work? I manually turn it or something snd if it's right it'll all line up? I'm in NJ myself so I hope if I ever have a major problem you could help out lol! Thanks so much man! I also saw some people using some little tool that went between two pulleys, not sure what it was at all. Any idea if I need that? Half asleep so my brain isn't functioning correctly to talk professionally lol.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Thanks to all for the replies, but especially to you John! Very helpful! Yeah I think I'll just get a pulley holder and possibly a torque wrench or just loan one from the store. So about your 5th tip, you're talking about knowing that it's right when the pulley marks line up. How's that work? I manually turn it or something snd if it's right it'll all line up? I'm in NJ myself so I hope if I ever have a major problem you could help out lol! Thanks so much man! I also saw some people using some little tool that went between two pulleys, not sure what it was at all. Any idea if I need that? Half asleep so my brain isn't functioning correctly to talk professionally lol.

Your very welcome, I'm in SJ so if I'm close, I'd be happy to help.

As for your questions, Lining up the marks is easy. There's marks on each camshaft pulley, which align with marks on the front cover casting. Same with the camshaft pulley. Check out the pics below. The mark on the belt is only for reference when you first put the belt on. What's important is that the camshaft and crankshaft marks line up every other revolution of the CS. This is accomplished by manually turning the crankshaft with a long ratchet and a 22mm? socket. Just turn the engine with the ratchet and every other turn the 3 marks should line up perfectly. Just cant be close.

As far as the tool you mentioned, you won't need it if replacing the hydraulic tensioner. It goes between the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley to compress the tensioner and eventually stick a pin in it to hold it in the retracted position. I just cut my old belt off. You can also just remove the center idler pulley.

Check out this writeup. I refereed to it. The only thing lacking is seal replacement, which I don't think I saw in any of the write-ups. One thing I do remember while searching the seals is somewhere it said you had to remove the valve covers. This does NOT have to be done.

Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement