Timing belt issue. Halp.

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meRockboost

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The belt is overhanging on the tensioner idler pulley. The pulley is kinda crooked when tightened down. I think the pulley is binding in the slot where the pin comes out and makes contact with the idler bearing. When I had it tightened down originally trying to get it to sit on the new tensioner it would not go into the slot to sit on top of the tensioner. I had to loosen it to get it to go in and get the belt on, then tighten it. So now it's crooked and allowing the belt to run over the pulley a little. It's 2am I hope this makes sense. Just looking for advice.
 
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When I tighten the hex bolt that holds the idler, it goes crooked and the belt runs off. If I loosen the hex bolt ~2 turns the bearing sits straight and the belt rides perfectly. It's acting like it needs a washer to space it out.

Is there a washer or something on the back side of the pulley? This thing was sitting weird before I pulled the pin on the tensioner.
 
Try this. Remove the top idler pulley between the cam gears. Install the tensioner pulley to 30 ft#. Then go back and install the top idler pulley. Snug it down and turn the crank shaft two revolutions and make sure the timing marks are lined up. If its good, tighten to 30 ft#. Turn crank again to verify alignment. Then pull the pin in the tensioner. And you are done.

The tensioner idler pulleys had a large washer behind it. You may have forgotten to install it behind the pulley.

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Try this. Remove the top idler pulley between the cam gears. Install the tensioner pulley to 30 ft#. Then go back and install the top idler pulley. Snug it down and turn the crank shaft two revolutions and make sure the timing marks are lined up. If its good, tighten to 30 ft#. Turn crank again to verify alignment. Then pull the pin in the tensioner. And you are done.

One of the idler pulleys had a large washer behind it. But I cant recall which one.
 
So, it's running. Last night around midnight we did the timing belt, when we removed the tensioner idler pulley the spacer was stuck to the block. It fell off and we thought we had dropped it much earlier and thought we figured out what it went to. A friend of a friend used to work for Toyota and lives around the corner. He came by and saw the spacer next to another part and said that was what I needed.
We removed the top idler while using a breaker bar on each cam gear to relive the tension on the pulley (pulling both bars inward) and then installed the spacer behind the idler, lined up crank and driver cam, had pass cam 5 teeth out to match the belt, then tightened pass cam gear to take out slack and align it with the timing mark and installed the pulley. He called it the "flat rate" way so you don't have to mess with the ac or bracket to remove the tensioner.
 

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Do you have the washer behind the tensioner? It often falls out and is easy to miss. It is quite thick.

Also, the tensioner bolts into soft aluminum of the oil pump. It is easy to strip in which case you have to install a helicoil to re-enforce the threads of it goes in sideways.

Just to be clear, you did remove the tensioner and compress it / pin it before installing the new belt?
 
Yeah a friend of a friend came over who used to be a Toyota tech, said it was the washer. It was stuck to the block and fell out later and I thought it was from an earlier step.

He did show me a neat trick though, I already had pulled my tensioner pin and he used two big breaker bars (one per cam) to put slack in the belt to remove the top idler and did the same for install and it worked great. Next I won't mess with that damn ac and bracket
 
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