Timing belt/water pump change tool/parts checklist

[cj80cruiser]

I started this thread a little premature to me doing all the research I could have done but I'm running out of time to order things.

First time TB change so bear with me. I have a short window to work in and I want to make sure I've covered my bases here.

Tools:
1) I'm making my pulley holder so I have that covered
2) I got a new tensioner with my TB kit. (Do I need the SST tool to change this out?) Schley tool
3) Isn't there a tool to change the tensioner without unbolting the A/C compressor? (seems I read that a few months ago) Just looking for a short cut.

Parts I have:
1) Water pump with gasket
2) Timing Belt
3) Thermostat with gasket
4) Tensioner
5) Koyo tensioner idler
6) NSK belt idler
7) Upper/Lower Radiator hoses
8) 3 Accessory belts
9) Updated crank bolt with large thick washer. New torque spec is 217 ft/lbs
10) 3 Oil seals. The write-ups I watched and read didn't mention replacing these and I've also read on here before not to change them unless they were leaking. Thoughts??

Am I missing anything? If you can think of something I need to order within the next couple days so this can be done on the 12th and 13th please let me know.

Thanks to all for any information!!!

 

[Aelfwine]

I understand you don't need that tool to change the tensioner. I think its for if you are reusing the tensioner. I'm not completely sure though. Changing my TB for the first time tomorrow as well so I'm in the same boat as you are. Oh and don't forget coolant and distilled water:d

 

[jmildoc]

tagged!!! Doing this very soon!

 

[jkoni426]

2) I got a new tensioner with my TB kit. (Do I need the SST tool to change this out?) Schley tool

if you're replacing the tensioner, that tool is not needed.

10) 3 Oil seals. The write-ups I watched and read didn't mention replacing these and I've also read on here before not to change them unless they were leaking. Thoughts??

I replaced the crank seal on mine but the cam seals were bone dry so I left them alone. your call

 

[541joseph]

If they aren't leaking leave them they are not nice to change and if you scratch the crank or a cam trying to get old ones out you need a new cam or crank whatever one you scratch.

 

[bandman659]

I started this thread a little premature to me doing all the research I could have done but I'm running out of time to order things.

First time TB change so bear with me. I have a short window to work in and I want to make sure I've covered my bases here.

Tools:
1) I'm making my pulley holder so I have that covered
2) I got a new tensioner with my TB kit. (Do I need the SST tool to change this out?) Schley tool
3) Isn't there a tool to change the tensioner without unbolting the A/C compressor? (seems I read that a few months ago) Just looking for a short cut.

Parts I have:
1) Water pump with gasket
2) Timing Belt
3) Thermostat with gasket
4) Tensioner
5) Koyo tensioner idler
6) NSK belt idler
7) Upper/Lower Radiator hoses
8) 3 Accessory belts
9) Updated crank bolt with large thick washer. New torque spec is 217 ft/lbs
10) 3 Oil seals. The write-ups I watched and read didn't mention replacing these and I've also read on here before not to change them unless they were leaking. Thoughts??

Am I missing anything? If you can think of something I need to order within the next couple days so this can be done on the 12th and 13th please let me know.

Thanks to all for any information!!!

I'd go ahead and change out your coolant while you're at it, unless you've recently changed it and just want to capture the drained coolant and put it back in when you're done. Zerex Asian is cheap enough ($16/gal at O'Reilly) that dealing with containing the drained coolant, keeping it clean, and refilling isn't worth the effort.

You don't need a special tool to replace the tensioner without removing the A/C compressor. I did it with 2 or 3 ratchet extensions, a u-joint adapter, and a lot of swearing. I also didn't use a tool to hold the crank pulley when I undid the crank bolt. I put a metal dowel in the flywheel to hold it in place, which has worked twice so far with no ill effects. Probably not the best idea, but whatever. Make sure your torque wrench will actually go to 217 ft-lbs to re-torque the crank bolt. Mine only goes to 180, so I had to borrow one from a friend.

Also, when you go to remove the crank pulley (aka, harmonic balancer), be careful how you get it loose from the crankshaft. The Haynes manual says that you can't use a puller on it, so my father-in-law and I tried to wiggle it off little by little. That was fine till the lip of the pulley cracked and a chunk broke off. That's a pretty carefully balanced item there, so with a chunk missing, we either had to remove a similar amount of material from the other side or reattach the piece. Neither of these options seemed good, so we slept on it. I had the bright idea the next day to call his friend that owned a machine shop in town and get him to put the pulley on a lathe and machine the whole lip down. That was 100k miles ago and I haven't had an issue.

My water pump didn't actually come with a gasket. It had a rubber seal built into the mating surface of the pump housing. The one I got was the Aisin pump, if it matters. The old one just had a bunch of RTV and no gasket either, so I cleaned the mating surface on the block and prayed that nothing would leak. 20k miles and no leaks, so I guess that worked too.

 

[cj80cruiser]

I understand you don't need that tool to change the tensioner. I think its for if you are reusing the tensioner. I'm not completely sure though. Changing my TB for the first time tomorrow as well so I'm in the same boat as you are. Oh and don't forget coolant and distilled water:d

Glad you remembered the distilled water. That did slip my mind. I had the coolant from a couple years ago that I didn't use. I doubt it has an expiration...I wouldn't think anyways.

if you're replacing the tensioner, that tool is not needed.



I replaced the crank seal on mine but the cam seals were bone dry so I left them alone. your call

I intended to do the same. Thanks!

If they aren't leaking leave them they are not nice to change and if you scratch the crank or a cam trying to get old ones out you need a new cam or crank whatever one you scratch.

Good advice

tagged!!! Doing this very soon!

Yeah buddy

I'd go ahead and change out your coolant while you're at it, unless you've recently changed it and just want to capture the drained coolant and put it back in when you're done. Zerex Asian is cheap enough ($16/gal at O'Reilly) that dealing with containing the drained coolant, keeping it clean, and refilling isn't worth the effort.

You don't need a special tool to replace the tensioner without removing the A/C compressor. I did it with 2 or 3 ratchet extensions, a u-joint adapter, and a lot of swearing. I also didn't use a tool to hold the crank pulley when I undid the crank bolt. I put a metal dowel in the flywheel to hold it in place, which has worked twice so far with no ill effects. Probably not the best idea, but whatever. Make sure your torque wrench will actually go to 217 ft-lbs to re-torque the crank bolt. Mine only goes to 180, so I had to borrow one from a friend.

Also, when you go to remove the crank pulley (aka, harmonic balancer), be careful how you get it loose from the crankshaft. The Haynes manual says that you can't use a puller on it, so my father-in-law and I tried to wiggle it off little by little. That was fine till the lip of the pulley cracked and a chunk broke off. That's a pretty carefully balanced item there, so with a chunk missing, we either had to remove a similar amount of material from the other side or reattach the piece. Neither of these options seemed good, so we slept on it. I had the bright idea the next day to call his friend that owned a machine shop in town and get him to put the pulley on a lathe and machine the whole lip down. That was 100k miles ago and I haven't had an issue.

My water pump didn't actually come with a gasket. It had a rubber seal built into the mating surface of the pump housing. The one I got was the Aisin pump, if it matters. The old one just had a bunch of RTV and no gasket either, so I cleaned the mating surface on the block and prayed that nothing would leak. 20k miles and no leaks, so I guess that worked too.

My buddy that's done this job before told me to get a harmonic balance puller. Know why it isn't recommended to be used?

I thought my pump was Aisin but it is completely bare on the back with no built in seal. Its been awhile since I ordered the kit so I could be wrong about the brand. I know I made sure it was OE brand when ordering.

 

[541joseph]

You should not need a puller toyota didn't make it to be used with a puller. It "should" pull off as long as it's not rusted and full of crap. Find yourself some jb80 spray the crank and let it sit for a while as well as any stuck bolts

 

[THatfield]

Don't forget the torque wrench! And as I recall the crank bolt requires some serious torque-ing. So make sure you have that covered. Don't want that sum***** coming off! Lol!

EDIT: seeing as how you have the updated bolt, I assume you have a good TQW. Good luck!

 

[cj80cruiser]

You should not need a puller toyota didn't make it to be used with a puller. It "should" pull off as long as it's not rusted and full of crap. Find yourself some jb80 spray the crank and let it sit for a while as well as any stuck bolts

That's what I've been seeing in the write ups. Evidently he had trouble with his TB change but I'll let the puller be the last resort.

Don't forget the torque wrench! And as I recall the crank bolt requires some serious torque-ing. So make sure you have that covered. Don't want that sum***** coming off! Lol!

EDIT: seeing as how you have the updated bolt, I assume you have a good TQW. Good luck!

I actually do need to confirm my torque wrench max spec which I believe is 220ft/lbs but my friend will have one even if mine won't get the job done.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I needed a puller. And I actually broke two bolts pulling it off. It was rusted on.

 

[zgensler31]

I couldnt get mine off by hand, but used two small pry bars as the haybes manual suggests, and it popped right off.