Timing belt?

Got another question, as for the timing gears going off tdc right after belt removal Is it ok to rotate the sprockets counter clock to make the mark or gotta go clock wise to get the marks to line up again? This is when the T belts already off.


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I think you're supposed to always go clockwise since that's the way it naturally goes.
Here's a few other links showing you how to do it as other references besides Timmy's video.
AdventureTaco - turbodb's build and adventures | Page 52 | Tacoma World This one has pictures.
Step by Step Toyota Tacoma Timing Belt Replacement for 3.4L V6 5VZFE (also 4runner, Tundra, and T100) – ADVENTURE TACO This one is a step by step guide.
 
well its been 2 years for me, and I did not have any issues...funny about tim stripping the bolt, might have to watch just to see him do it as I dont remeber that...seen everyone of his videos and use them for reference often

It's not that I stripped the bolt, it's the fact threads gave way when i removed the lower idler pulley bolt. When I reviewed the video footage, I could see threads hanging in the hole before I even attempted to get the bolt back in and tightened to spec. I definitely didn't cross thread it. I think it's just an occurrence that can happen when you have a steel bolt tightened into an aluminum housing. After making the video, other guys contacted me and told me the same thing happened to them. I think it's just luck of the draw if it happens but I have a feeling it's fairly rare luckily. I had to drill it out and install a helicoil to make it work. Toyota does use some type of thread-locker on the threads of that bolt. When I do this job again, I think I'm going to heat up the bolt a little to hopefully facilitate breaking the bond of the loctite with the aluminum housing.
 
I think you're supposed to always go clockwise since that's the way it naturally goes.
Here's a few other links showing you how to do it as other references besides Timmy's video.
AdventureTaco - turbodb's build and adventures | Page 52 | Tacoma World This one has pictures.
Step by Step Toyota Tacoma Timing Belt Replacement for 3.4L V6 5VZFE (also 4runner, Tundra, and T100) – ADVENTURE TACO This one is a step by step guide.

Yeah, I post our videos on Tacoma World too in the 1st Gen section. These guys used our video as a reference to make a write-up of the job which is nice for those that prefer write-ups.
 
Thanks Tim for your videos and everything you do. They are awesome and a great reference for weekend warriors like me.


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I did this service by myself last August, it's completely doable, BUT.. if you run into any snags it's helpful to have another set of wheels. The bolts that hold the hydro tensioner had rounded off heads, which meant I had to drop the AC compressor and drop the bracket to get to them. That opened a can of worms because the belt tensioner assembly was rotted together, so that added 4 days to get the parts from Toyota to get those parts, and then one of the compressor bracket bolts broke off ( rusted almost in half) which added more time to dig that out of the block.
 
I did this service by myself last August, it's completely doable, BUT.. if you run into any snags it's helpful to have another set of wheels. The bolts that hold the hydro tensioner had rounded off heads, which meant I had to drop the AC compressor and drop the bracket to get to them. That opened a can of worms because the belt tensioner assembly was rotted together, so that added 4 days to get the parts from Toyota to get those parts, and then one of the compressor bracket bolts broke off ( rusted almost in half) which added more time to dig that out of the block.


With that said you think it’s a good idea to PB blast or liquid wrench the nuts and bolts before wrenching, especially the crank bolt?


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You got this. Just did my second TB / WP job on a 3rd gen a little over a month ago.

When you get the water pump off, make sure you get the surface completely cleaned up. Pay attention to the points or the corners.

On my most recent TB job, I missed a spot on one of the corners and the water pump began leaking. I had to take the timing belt off from the top to get to the water pump to clean it up again. Was a huge pita.
 
Got another question, as for the camshaft gears going off tdc right after belt removal Is it ok to rotate the sprockets counter clock to make the mark or gotta go clock wise to get the marks to line up again? This is when the T belts already off. I understand for the crank it should go clockwise only with belt of without belt.


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It's a non-interference motor so you aren't going to hurt anything by rotating the cams either direction to line things up again.
 
Did anyone of my forum TR4 peers did a timing belt alone? My buddies seem to be always busy. Is it doable? There are no stickers or indication that the previous owner did the belt job done. I’ve asked him numerous times and he has no clue. Omg


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Very doable alone. There are plenty of youtube walk throughs. Take your time and double check intervening. If you can read and follow instructions you will be fine.
 
It's a non-interference motor so you aren't going to hurt anything by rotating the cams either direction to line things up again.


Raja thanks for the reply on this. Gotta make sure before I start doing stuff that might mess sh*t up hehehe. This is good to know material.


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Question: just watched Timmys video one more time and came to the part where he stripped the bolt for the tensioner idler pulley. What’s the chances that happens? Have any of you had that issue?


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Yes, it was stripped before I did the job by someone else. You'll be able to tell when you take the bolt out. If it comes out smoothly then it's good. If it's a fight to get every last thread out, it's been stripped. Do not overtighten it going back in, the reason why it's stripped is because the threads are in the oil pump not the block, and the oil pump is aluminum. If it does strip, use lock-tite on the threads and get it as snug as you can since you won't get the full torque spec. Then pray you'll never have to change it again!

Also it's totally up to you about the crank seal. I didn't want to mess with the crankshaft so I just left it alone. I also don't replace half-moons on the cylinder heads, rear main seals, blah blah blah. I know which seals are most likely to leak and I focus on those. I've seen more leaks from mis-aligned seals that someone tried to "fix" like the camshaft and crankshaft seals than I have from the original ones failing.
 
Yes, it was stripped before I did the job by someone else. You'll be able to tell when you take the bolt out. If it comes out smoothly then it's good. If it's a fight to get every last thread out, it's been stripped. Do not overtighten it going back in, the reason why it's stripped is because the threads are in the oil pump not the block, and the oil pump is aluminum. If it does strip, use lock-tite on the threads and get it as snug as you can since you won't get the full torque spec. Then pray you'll never have to change it again!

Also it's totally up to you about the crank seal. I didn't want to mess with the crankshaft so I just left it alone. I also don't replace half-moons on the cylinder heads, rear main seals, blah blah blah. I know which seals are most likely to leak and I focus on those. I've seen more leaks from mis-aligned seals that someone tried to "fix" like the camshaft and crankshaft seals than I have from the original ones failing.

kind of agree with this..I have been into engines with supposedly new seals...yep new...but not properly installed...wrong depth or twisted...sometimes...no touchy is best
 
I have everything so far except the crank bolt. I’ll get an oem one from the dealer. How much does a bolt cost at the stealership?


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After a long wait, I finally have some time to do the job and alone. Do I have to remove the neg battery cable?


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f982735031513fd8c8b67f801bc1a98b.jpg

Done. Took me about 7 hrs. Not bad for one man noob. Thank you to all that helped


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