Timing chain cover and changing valve lifter on 1GR-FE

[epicpilgrim]

Thanks waypoint. Is break-in lube the same as assembly lube? A moly based, oil-soluble grease? Just lightly apply to sprockets, chain, cam lobes, etc I guess? Will be changing the oil pretty quickly after applying that, I reckon!

 

[epicpilgrim]

Well, I got the studs out. One of them didn’t come happily:

Studs - Album on Imgur

I seriously need to get an impact gun. Anyway. Would threadlocker and a small amount of torque when I put this back in be sufficient? I need a welder too. Put a friggin nut on there for next time I need to take the stud out. Or is there some sort of standard thread stud I should use and replace this one?

 

[waypoint]

Thanks waypoint. Is break-in lube the same as assembly lube? A moly based, oil-soluble grease? Just lightly apply to sprockets, chain, cam lobes, etc I guess? Will be changing the oil pretty quickly after applying that, I reckon!

I'd be OK using what you're describing. No problem leaving that in the oil for a reasonable break-in followed by an oil change.

Of note, there's decent body of evidence that molybdenum disulfide ("moly") is a good anti-wear additive for minimizing timing chain wear:

https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STL.... Esche_The Role Additive Chemistry Plays.pdf

Your chain is in very good condition as indicated by the tensioner plunger extended length in your video. Keep doing what you've been doing in terms of oil change intervals and selection.

 

[epicpilgrim]

New studs, amazingly found in my city at a Toyota dealership (amazing what common parts sometimes take weeks to get in and what random parts they have just laying around):

New studs - Album on Imgur

 

[epicpilgrim]

Timing cover is back on. I am crapping myself that the oil pickup o ring has caught when putting it on and come out of its groove. I guess there’s no way of knowing until I start it. If the o ring didn’t stay in place properly, what would I get? Oil pressure warning that won’t go away? I can see now why Toyota recommend dumping the oil pans but that looks like a helluva job too.

 

[waypoint]

If the o-ring isn't in place and sealed, you'll get low oil pressure.

And what about the 2nd o-ring on the upper right of the engine?

By removing the fuel pump fuse or relay prior to initial startup, you'll get to watch the oil pressure light while the engine is turning on starter. Should flicker and go out after just a few seconds of cranking, even with a new empty oil filter on there.

Timing cover is back on. I am crapping myself that the oil pickup o ring has caught when putting it on and come out of its groove. I guess there’s no way of knowing until I start it. If the o ring didn’t stay in place properly, what would I get? Oil pressure warning that won’t go away? I can see now why Toyota recommend dumping the oil pans but that looks like a helluva job too.

 

[epicpilgrim]

If the o-ring isn't in place and sealed, you'll get low oil pressure.

And what about the 2nd o-ring on the upper right of the engine?

By removing the fuel pump fuse or relay prior to initial startup, you'll get to watch the oil pressure light while the engine is turning on starter. Should flicker and go out after just a few seconds of cranking, even with a new empty oil filter on there.

Both O rings were in place at time of cover going on. Hopefully both sealed up properly, hopefully RTV didn’t get where it shouldn’t, etc etc.

Looking forward to seeing (hopefully) the oil pressure light go out and stay out.

 

[epicpilgrim]

Just a thought... if some of the sealant squeezed into the water passages, is this ok? Or should I take the water pump off and check/clean this out? Brand new water pump and gasket so it should be fine to remove and then re-use right?

 

[waypoint]

Just a thought... if some of the sealant squeezed into the water passages, is this ok? Or should I take the water pump off and check/clean this out? Brand new water pump and gasket so it should be fine to remove and then re-use right?

I noticed the factory FIPG sealant had done this, with a bead of it protruding into the water passages on both sides of the engine.

What did you use for sealant? I used Toyota FIPG specified for the water pump passages, and RightStuff Gray for the main timing cover.

By the time you're ready to refill coolant and start the engine, the sealant will have had ample time to cure in place so no worries.

 

[epicpilgrim]

I used Permatex water housing and thermostat sealant around the inlets and Permatex ultra black around the rest.

Have decided to rip it off and re-do it. Second time will be a dream thankfully hadn’t done much than put some bolts back in when I changed my mind. Tomorrow will crack the cover off and see how good (or bad) my first attempt was. Can’t wait for a second cleanup of gasket material.

 

[waypoint]

I used Permatex water housing and thermostat sealant around the inlets and Permatex ultra black around the rest.

Have decided to rip it off and re-do it. Second time will be a dream thankfully hadn’t done much than put some bolts back in when I changed my mind. Tomorrow will crack the cover off and see how good (or bad) my first attempt was. Can’t wait for a second cleanup of gasket material.

You really don't want to use RTV silicone for any of this. Form in place gasket (FIPG) is what the manual says, very different composition than RTV silicone.

As mentioned above I used Right Stuff gray in the cheese-whiz can for the main cover surfaces, and Toyota spec stuff for the water pump passages. Probably overkill and Right Stuff gray would have been fine for the water pump passages, but I really didn't want to do this job twice.

 

[epicpilgrim]

You really don't want to use RTV silicone for any of this. Form in place gasket (FIPG) is what the manual says, very different composition than RTV silicone.

As mentioned above I used Right Stuff gray in the cheese-whiz can for the main cover surfaces, and Toyota spec stuff for the water pump passages. Probably overkill and Right Stuff gray would have been fine for the water pump passages, but I really didn't want to do this job twice.

Guess I’m gonna give Toyota a call and see if they have the FIPGs in stock! Why didn’t you use Toyota FIPG for the main cover in the end?

 

[epicpilgrim]

Toyota FIPG on the way (both types). New oil pump o ring. New crankshaft seal since I had to remove the new one, although it looks perfect but figure if I’ve even slightly damaged it, it’s worth the extra few bucks.

Now I’m thinking... should I pull oil pump off while here and both check it as well as prime it? Haynes says to pack it with petroleum jelly? Sounds weird but given it’s virtually dry other than a film of oil, is it worth doing this? Just need o rings for top and bottom of oil pickup tube I guess. The oil pump bolts are torqued to 9nm which is low but fine for my 1/4in torque wrench, no concerns there.

 

[waypoint]

Now I’m thinking... should I pull oil pump off while here and both check it as well as prime it? Haynes says to pack it with petroleum jelly? Sounds weird but given it’s virtually dry other than a film of oil, is it worth doing this? Just need o rings for top and bottom of oil pickup tube I guess. The oil pump bolts are torqued to 9nm which is low but fine for my 1/4in torque wrench, no concerns there.

On your other question, too difficult for me to get a uniform bead width using the toothpaste tube. My neighbor who is a senior mechanic at the local Porsche dealership stopped by while I was applying it and said to stop, brought over a can of Right Stuff gray, and showed me how to apply it uniformly. Easily done. I've put 60K miles on it since the chain project and no leaks.

I didn't pack my oil pump, instead I poured clean oil down the filter housing outer and inner passages right before installing the oil filter...and it made pressure with no problem while I was cranking with the fuel pump relay removed. Nice thing about the oil filter being mounted on top of the engine.

When you're applying the two FIPGs, pay particular attention to the leakage bulletin pic below and apply it on both sides as shown in the other two pics from the shop manual.

NOTE: also add a thick bead across the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan. I ran two 4mm beads, running forward of the oil pump pickup tube (not aft of the o-ring which seemed to risk dragging FIPG into the pickup tube).

 

[epicpilgrim]

On your other question, too difficult for me to get a uniform bead width using the toothpaste tube. My neighbor who is a senior mechanic at the local Porsche dealership stopped by while I was applying it and said to stop, brought over a can of Right Stuff gray, and showed me how to apply it uniformly. Easily done. I've put 60K miles on it since the chain project and no leaks.

I didn't pack my oil pump, instead I poured clean oil down the filter housing outer and inner passages right before installing the oil filter...and it made pressure with no problem while I was cranking with the fuel pump relay removed. Nice thing about the oil filter being mounted on top of the engine.

When you're applying the two FIPGs, pay particular attention to the leakage bulletin pic below and apply it on both sides as shown in the other two pics from the shop manual.

NOTE: also add a thick bead across the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan. I ran two 4mm beads, running forward of the oil pump pickup tube (not aft of the o-ring which seemed to risk dragging FIPG into the pickup tube).

Thanks - yeah there are two depressions on that side of the timing cover. Stupid manufacturing flaw. Will make sure it's thicker there.

Still got to decide if I pull oil pump apart and inspect whilst I've got the cover off again. Just need to see if I can source those O rings quickly enough.

Your note with the oil pan... this is partly why I am redoing the job. I originally applied the RTV (now to be FIPG) on the oil pan itself. After sealing it up, I realised the O ring likely dragged over that. So this time I'm definitely doing the FIPG on the base of the timing cover. I don't entirely get your forward/aft comment though. If I just apply two beads along the base of the cover (one in front of bolt holes and one behind them?) then this will do what I need, right? Should I drop it to one 4mm bead around the oil pickup tube to avoid squeezing any into that? Or I guess once the O ring has made contact, it can squeeze wherever it wants right?

 

[waypoint]

I don't entirely get your forward/aft comment though. If I just apply two beads along the base of the cover (one in front of bolt holes and one behind them?) then this will do what I need, right? Should I drop it to one 4mm bead around the oil pickup tube to avoid squeezing any into that? Or I guess once the O ring has made contact, it can squeeze wherever it wants right?

Forward = toward the front of the vehicle.
Aft = toward the rear of the vehicle.

By applying FIPG to the timing cover, forward of the o-ring, you reduce risk of the FIPG being dragged into the oil pump pickup tube while you're sliding the timing cover into place, possibly lodging in the oil pump pressure relief valve.

I wrote up in my notes that I tilted the cover into place...started by sliding the base of the cover onto the oil pump crank drive gear with the top slightly tilted away from the engine, holding it off the oil pan until it was on the crank drive gear. Then I tilted the cover onto the engine while lowering it onto the oil pan. I practiced this quite a few times without the o-rings and FIPG until I got it down smoothly.

I also applied a light film of motor oil to the pickup o-ring so it would slide that last little bit into place while I was tilting the timing cover into place. The o-ring was glued into the groove with Permatex aviation sealant (like liquid carmel sauce texture) and fully cured, it wasn't going to come out of place without a major fight.

edit: all the timing cover bolts were installed loosely, and I torqued the four lower bolts to the oil pan first to ensure compression of the pickup o-ring. Then I torqued the front bolts in 3 torque steps from the center outward in a figure-8 outward e.g. 8 Nm, then 16 Nm, then final torque of 24 Nm (going from memory here but you get the idea...nice linear tightening).

 

[epicpilgrim]

Forward = toward the front of the vehicle.
Aft = toward the rear of the vehicle.

By applying FIPG to the timing cover, forward of the o-ring, you reduce risk of the FIPG being dragged into the oil pump pickup tube while you're sliding the timing cover into place, possibly lodging in the oil pump pressure relief valve.

I wrote up in my notes that I tilted the cover into place...started by sliding the base of the cover onto the oil pump crank drive gear with the top slightly tilted away from the engine, holding it off the oil pan until it was on the crank drive gear. Then I tilted the cover onto the engine while lowering it onto the oil pan. I practiced this quite a few times without the o-rings and FIPG until I got it down smoothly.

I also applied a light film of motor oil to the pickup o-ring so it would slide that last little bit into place while I was tilting the timing cover into place. The o-ring was glued into the groove with Permatex aviation sealant (like liquid carmel sauce texture) and fully cured, it wasn't going to come out of place without a major fight.

edit: all the timing cover bolts were installed loosely, and I torqued the four lower bolts to the oil pan first to ensure compression of the pickup o-ring. Then I torqued the front bolts in 3 torque steps from the center outward in a figure-8 outward e.g. 8 Nm, then 16 Nm, then final torque of 24 Nm (going from memory here but you get the idea...nice linear tightening).

Thanks! That makes much more sense. I was imagining fore and aft as if it was fore and aft of the timing cover as I was installing it, which was entirely the reverse of what I thought it should be!

The FIPG instructions say to torque all bolts up within 15 minutes. I get why you did 3 torque steps but that will be pushing my ability to tighten everything that quickly Getting those bottom bolts properly done in that awkward position will be a good 4-5 minutes alone. And only 3 minutes from application to pressed up against the block... gonna need to have my wits about me for this one.

 

[waypoint]

Getting those bottom bolts properly done in that awkward position will be a good 4-5 minutes alone. And only 3 minutes from application to pressed up against the block... gonna need to have my wits about me for this one.

My 1/4" drive torque wrench and a standard depth socket gave no problems with the lower timing cover bolts, plenty of room to work. Start from the middle and work your way outward in a figure 8, like valve cover torque sequence.

I did the 3 steps not wasting any time but not rushing. No leaks.

And don't forget the water pump big bolts are part of the timing cover surface, they thread into the engine just like the rest of the bolts. Get the main cover bolts on and torqued, then quickly install the water pump to get all the FIPG compressed and curing uniformly.

 

[waypoint]

Also...apply a bead of FIPG at the oil pan corners where it meets with the engine block and timing cover. This is a GM LS engine trick and it worked well for me on the Toyota timing cover as well.

 

[epicpilgrim]

Well, after another failed attempt I finally have the timing cover sealed back on with the help of a mate. 3 minutes to apply both FIPGs and mate surfaces up is impossible. Thankfully did it on a cold night so hopefully slowed curing down slightly. Felt good. Here’s hoping!

Almost got everything except fan/radiator back on. Putting “air surge” unit back on. All hoses appear to be installed with right hose clamps but I’ve stumbled on this random hose clamp that was on one of the hoses... who knows where that came from, wrong size for this hose.

Random hose clip - Album on Imgur

Will double check all connections again in fresh light of day tomorrow. If I can’t find somewhere I guess I leave it hanging and see what happens.

All going well, it will be back on the road in 24 hours. Any issues, I give up What a job. Thanks so much for the help in this forum, particularly waypoint! Couldn’t have gotten this far without your assistance.