Tire Comparison: Is it worth it?

[kodams]

Hi all:

Really wanted the GY Wrangler Duratracs in 265/70/17 Load Rating C. Especially after reading all the threads on them... However, I was quoted at Costco for BFG All Terrain TA KO at a much cheaper price.

BFG All Terrain TA KO through Costco: $992 including tax, mount, balance

GY Wrangler Duratracs through GY Store: $1190 including tax, mount, balance

Is the Duratracs really that much better than they are worth that much of a price diff? Please give me some helpful advice or pointers.

Thanks!

 

[JayG]

Hi all:

Really wanted the GY Wrangler Duratracs in 265/70/17 Load Rating C. Especially after reading all the threads on them... However, I was quoted at Costco for BFG All Terrain TA KO at a much cheaper price.

BFG All Terrain TA KO through Costco: $992 including tax, mount, balance

GY Wrangler Duratracs through GY Store: $1190 including tax, mount, balance

Is the Duratracs really that much better than they are worth that much of a price diff? Please give me some helpful advice or pointers.

Thanks!

I have had both and they are both good tires. I think the GY are better off road and in rain/snow. BFG will last along time if you rotate. I got 70k out of mine, but I was never thrilled with their performance....good/adequate....but not great! When I got my GY they had a $80 rebate so I saved a little. I think I paid $230 per. If the tires your pulling off are newer you could sell them and that would save you a bit. I would just spend the extra $$ and get what you really want.

 

[westwind77]

If you are going to spend 1k on tires that you don't really 'need', the extra few dollars to get what you want or that would perform best is a no-brainer.
*assuming with an Oct 12' join date your 4R is rather new and current tires still have decent tread.
I never understand when people spend 35k on something then complain that getting that one option up to 36k is just too much (nothing to do with the OP, just people in general with vehicles).
If your tires till have decent tread on them sell them locally, will get a decent amount towards the new ones!
I did not 'need' new tires either, but I wanted them, so I got what I wanted.

 

[SC0TT]

I'm stuck choosing between the same tires as OP. Its not a money issue causing the split but the horror stories about the Load C GY D/T's in the 265 size. Specially the balancing problems that I hear so many complaints about, resulting in returning tires.

Can anyone who has experience running 265/70-17 C Load DuraTracs provide input?

 

[GrantK]

If you don't get what you really settled on you will always be questioning your choice, even if the 2nd choice tires are the greatest in the world you'll constantly be thinking that you should have spent the extra and purchased what you really wanted.

 

[Kraeken]

My Duratrac C loads were impossible to balance, the E loads are perfect, and I don't notice a difference on the road.

I'm on my second set of Duratracs, and I had several sets of BFG KO's on my 4th Gen 4R and my old XJ. As good as the BFG KO's are, the Duratracs do seem better not just in rain/snow, but all around. I think even my Duellers were better than the BFG's in snow. And before I sold my C load Duratracs they were well on their way to lasting 60-70k.

My current Duratracs are E load, and they balance perfectly.

 

[adam2562]

My Duratrac C loads were impossible to balance, the E loads are perfect, and I don't notice a difference on the road.

I'm on my second set of Duratracs, and I had several sets of BFG KO's on my 4th Gen 4R and my old XJ. As good as the BFG KO's are, the Duratracs do seem better not just in rain/snow, but all around. I think even my Duellers were better than the BFG's in snow. And before I sold my C load Duratracs they were well on their way to lasting 60-70k.

My current Duratracs are E load, and they balance perfectly.

how do the E load's drive vs the C? i'm considering spending the extra for Duratracs vs spending just $840 on Cooper AT3's

 

[Jeremy556]

I have C load Duratracs, and I have had no problems having them balanced by competent shops, with good equipment. Now, techs that don't know lug vs hub centric and without hunter road force balancers, yea, they will cause you grief.

 

[Kraeken]

I love the ride of the E's. They are a little stiffer, but nothing uncomfortable. The truck handles great, nosedive all but gone.

I bought both the E's and C's from the same reputable shop. They couldn't balance the C's, zero problems with the E's. The C's had a lot of weight on them also. Not as many with the E's.

 

[agjake01]

How much of a MPG hit will you take going from the C's to the E's? Bit heavier aren't they? I love the look of the tires but don't want to sacrifice too many MPGs?

 

[1engineer]

how do the E load's drive vs the C? i'm considering spending the extra for Duratracs vs spending just $840 on Cooper AT3's

Why? Just asking. I go off road quite a bit but do not rock crawl. I initially looked at the Duratracs but when it came time for proper evaluation I discarded them as overkill. Since most of us spend, mileage wise, 99% of miles on road their weight alone would cost me around $273.00 a year (30K/yr-20 vs 19 mpg-$3.50/gal) and up front cost difference of $300.00. In my calculations for my driving, a Duratrac load range E tire would cost me $846.00 to run them for two years. That is the cost of an additional new set of tires. The Cooper AT3 performed very well for 35K miles until I traded the SR5. I will put them on the TE mid summer. Every tire has pros/cons. Unfortunately for me the biggest pros of the Duratracs were features I would never use. Good luck and Remember just because something costs more does not make it better. They do look cool though!

 

[philsey]

...... They do look cool though!

And there you have it!

 

[TheOnlyQP]

I have E rated Toyo AT IIs. The ride is definitely stiffer. I can't decide if I'm going to keep them or exchange for KOs or Duratracs. I live on a dirt road and the bumps are definitely more pronounced. The P metric Toyos look significantly different than the E rated.

Toyo does have a satisfaction guarantee for the first 500 miles so it will be a free swap. Well except for the price difference.

 

[adam2562]

Why? Just asking. I go off road quite a bit but do not rock crawl. I initially looked at the Duratracs but when it came time for proper evaluation I discarded them as overkill. Since most of us spend, mileage wise, 99% of miles on road their weight alone would cost me around $273.00 a year (30K/yr-20 vs 19 mpg-$3.50/gal) and up front cost difference of $300.00. In my calculations for my driving, a Duratrac load range E tire would cost me $846.00 to run them for two years. That is the cost of an additional new set of tires. The Cooper AT3 performed very well for 35K miles until I traded the SR5. I will put them on the TE mid summer. Every tire has pros/cons. Unfortunately for me the biggest pros of the Duratracs were features I would never use. Good luck and Remember just because something costs more does not make it better. They do look cool though!

well.. i've heard plenty of good things for the AT3's as well as the Duratracs.. how much heavier to you suspect the Durtracs weigh? and.. yes they do look cool.. but the look and tread blocks is what helps you in mud and they have been spoken of highly in rain/snow.. how were the coopers in the rain and snow? i didn't hear much about that for them. thanks!

 

[RonMAIDEN]

I've been running my Duratracs C load range for 3 years and 25k miles and haven't had any issues with them and they have ben a very good tire on and off road and on the street is where they're much bette rthan the FGs epecially in the wet.

Now regarding them on the heavier 5th gens I might opt for the E load range.

 

[adam2562]

I've been running my Duratracs C load range for 3 years and 25k miles and haven't had any issues with them and they have ben a very good tire on and off road and on the street is where they're much bette rthan the FGs epecially in the wet.

Now regarding them on the heavier 5th gens I might opt for the E load range.

have you been able to keep the C load range ones balanced and smooth?

 

[1engineer]

well.. i've heard plenty of good things for the AT3's as well as the Duratracs.. how much heavier to you suspect the Durtracs weigh? and.. yes they do look cool.. but the look and tread blocks is what helps you in mud and they have been spoken of highly in rain/snow.. how were the coopers in the rain and snow? i didn't hear much about that for them. thanks!

I did a review here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/114342-tires.html and the big write up is on page 2 and the winter update is on page 4.

The "look" as you said above does not help anything but the tread block shape is what determines mud clearing from the tread. That was a concern of mine as well as we have a lot of rain and mud around here in the spring. The Coopers did fine in all conditions. I am not pushing Coopers as there are many great tires out there and Duratracs are one of them. It's just that each tire has it's pros and cons and for me, the Coopers were the best for my individual situation. The Firestone Destinations are a good tire for example along with the Michelin AT's but the tread blocks are smaller so mud clearing is an issue. If I did not go off road I would get the Michelins.They are a great road tire that do great in the snow and rain and wear well and last 60K no problems. I have run several sets of them. If I went off road daily for an extended period of time in rocky terrain I would definitely get the Duratracs. Dick Cepeks were a great mud tire and I ran a few set of them as well. The best looking tire to me was the BFG KO's. I wanted to like them so much I ran a few sets of those as well until I realized that while they did good off road, the rain and snow performance was nowhere as good as the Michelins. The Coopers seem to me to be a "compromise" tire, and sometimes that is what you have to do. The are really good in all conditions including decreased road noise but they are not "the best" at any one thing. They are better than others IMO in all conditions. Hope this helps.

 

[adam2562]

yea.. when i said "the look" i meant the tread blocks are going to be beefy.. and the sidewalls have much more grab than the AT3.. but you're write up did inform me well on a few tires i was considering.. thanks!

 

[1engineer]

yea.. when i said "the look" i meant the tread blocks are going to be beefy.. and the sidewalls have much more grab than the AT3.. but you're write up did inform me well on a few tires i was considering.. thanks!

Tire weight difference between the two is about 11 lbs. The rule of thumb ratio is 8:1 on sprung vs unsprung mass. So, 44 lbs times 8 equals 352 lbs equivalent you would be carrying around. I equated it to about 1 mpg loss which adds up. Mostly city driving would be worse because of constant acceleration deceleration of the unsprung mass.

 

[adam2562]

hmm... yea the At3's are looking better as we speak lol