Tire shake: Steering rack or CA bushings?

Mudeprived

New member
I bought the 99 in December and the goodyear tires were shaking on the highway. I replaced them with a new set of Authorities then installed new ball joints, tie rods, rack bushings, and shocks. The tires were smooth but lately I began to feel the shaking slowly working it's way back. I think the tires are cupping.

Those are the only two things I have yet to replace. I know the steering box is on it's last leg and has some play in it but I do not know the condition of the arm bushings.

What you guys think is causing this 2nd set of tires to shake?
 
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How bad is the shake? What speed? Happen in 4wd as well? How do the rotors look?
That's gonna help narrow it down a bit.

Highway speeds (60 mph). The steering wheel shakes left and right about 1/8" all the time. I have not used 4wd since I bought it. As stated earlier the tires were super smooth since new and then I started noticing a very small hint of a shake develop and now it's noticeable. It's the same kind of shake the old tires had before I pulled em. Something is slowly wearing/cupping my tires.

I have Toyota Rotors and pads that I installed a month ago and braking is smooth.

New:
Pads
Rotors
Upper BJ
Lower BJ
Inner TR
Outer TR
Rack bushings
Shocks
Sway bar bushings
Alignment x2

All Toyota except the Shocks (4600's) and bushings.


Thanks
 
I think it's improperly balanced tires. These wheels are lug centric and a lot of shops try to balance them like hub-centric wheels. Your shop needs the proper adapter called a finger plate adapter or a Haweka Adapter. They can cost $500 so some shops are more or less willing to invest in it. There is a Toyota service bulletin addressing this issue, TSB SU002-96. This was how I cleared up my 60mph steering wheel shimmy.

https://www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/WHEEL_BALANCE_ADAPTER_KIT_T-SU002-96.pdf
 
I think it's improperly balanced tires. These wheels are lug centric and a lot of shops try to balance them like hub-centric wheels. Your shop needs the proper adapter called a finger plate adapter or a Haweka Adapter. They can cost $500 so some shops are more or less willing to invest in it. There is a Toyota service bulletin addressing this issue, TSB SU002-96. This was how I cleared up my 60mph steering wheel shimmy.

https://www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/WHEEL_BALANCE_ADAPTER_KIT_T-SU002-96.pdf


This. You would be surpised how many professional tire shops either don't have the adapter, or don't mess with it.

Just because they get lucky and SOME toyota wheels will balance ok using the standard hub-centric method, doesn't mean all will....and our 4runners tend to have alloy wheels that really need those lug-centric adapters.
 
This. You would be surpised how many professional tire shops either don't have the adapter, or don't mess with it.

Just because they get lucky and SOME toyota wheels will balance ok using the standard hub-centric method, doesn't mean all will....and our 4runners tend to have alloy wheels that really need those lug-centric adapters.
Pep Boys in Reno, NV was very proud to have the correct Toyota adapter for their spin balancer.

When I was chasing my vibration issue over New Years they balanced the heck out of my tired and showed me each wheel in perfect balance. Sadly that was not my issue.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
I bought the 99 in December and the goodyear tires were shaking on the highway. I replaced them with a new set of Authorities then installed new ball joints, tie rods, rack bushings, and shocks. The tires were smooth but lately I began to feel the shaking slowly working it's way back. I think the tires are cupping.

Those are the only two things I have yet to replace. I know the steering box is on it's last leg and has some play in it but I do not know the condition of the arm bushings.

What you guys think is causing this 2nd set of tires to shake?

If you are using Goodyear Wrangler Authorities (the A/T sold at Walmart), from what I have read they can be tricky to balance. So, I second the balancing concern.
 
Our wheels are hub centric not lug centric.
OP, sounds like you have the front end buttoned up. I would do as Octanejunkie says & start looking at your u-joints and rear driveshaft.
 
I'll have the tires rebalanced but like I said the tires were smooth as new and balanced great for the months I drove on them until recently they slowly started shaking just like the previous tires did. If it was U-joints on the shaft then it would be shaking all the time since day one but it stopped as soon as I installed new tires and is now slowly coming back.
 
I'll have the tires rebalanced but like I said the tires were smooth as new and balanced great for the months I drove on them until recently they slowly started shaking just like the previous tires did. If it was U-joints on the shaft then it would be shaking all the time since day one but it stopped as soon as I installed new tires and is now slowly coming back.

Driveshaft would be consistent, regardless of tires. But then so would imbalanced wheels. It wouldn't happen after a while of driving, unless you just lost a weight.

Did you notice how much counter-weight they put on each wheel? Anything over 1.5 ounces is considered a lot.

Has anyone done a shake down of the vehicle while it's in the air?

Where do you feel the shake most while driving: in the steering wheel, or trans tunnel near the back seat, or everywhere?

Do you cross over something hard and sharp daily, possibly at speed? Could you have caused a tire bead separation on two different sets of tires?

This is a good one :hungry:
 
You mentioned you replaced the rack bushings.
What about the rack guide bushings? Have you replaced those also?
And did you adjust for rack play by adjusting the guide bushings?
 

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