Titanium 4X4 08 SR5 -BUILD/Tinker Thread

Great price on the vanity light. the first one I looked at, it wasn't worth it.
____________________
2007 SE V6 Titanium

I agree. Superbrightleds have great prices for their LED’s. Just be careful, you’ll burn the crap out of your fingers when you pull out the old halogen vanity light bulb, don’t ask me how I know :doh: Didn’t even think about that little bulb getting so dang hot, so fast since it's the size of a small fuse haha.
 
Last edited:
Exhaust cam Timing gears with 3* Retard

September 2020

Group buy for the cam gears with a lot of good information and how to.
Cam gears for V6. Add power AND mpg | Tacoma World

Bought all new seals just in case and went with the toyota FIPG. My seals would have been fine but rather be safe than sorry. Only thing I didn’t wind up using was the throttle body seal since I didn’t take it apart. Replaced the PCV valve as well, my original seemed like it functioned properly though.






Insides looked good to me, but I’m pretty far from a mechanic so don’t take my word for it haha.






The front bolt for the exhaust cam gear was a BEAR to get off as others have stated. I used another wrench looped over the jaw for leverage and the way they were flexing, I thought for sure one was going to break.


Replaced the spark plugs too while I was at it and gapped them proper. Just used the Denso Copper ones. ALMOST every time I change plugs, I have to buy a new gapper lol. I’m sure I have a half dozen or more if I could round them all up at once.

Seems to have made a difference adding a little pep. Added maybe 1+MPG or so on average but my driving isn’t the most consistent.
 
Last edited:
Pedal Commander PC38

September 2020

Bought and installed a PC38 pedal commander. Have been torn between the Sprint Booster and the Pedal Commander. I bought a Pedal Commander for my 2019 Subaru (now have a 2021) and made a big difference so I stuck with what I know.

They offer coupon codes quite frequently, up to $40 that I’ve seen on holidays. If you add one to your cart and add your email, they’ll usually send you coupon codes as well. That’s where the $40 off came from.


I just tucked it in between my seat and console.




They have a really nice ap that is Bluetooth. This way you can make adjustments of the go and not have to worry about digging the controller out from the seat.


It makes a big difference, the 4Runner drive by wire is super delayed. You realize just how much once you replace it. Have to be careful of how sensitive you make it because it will get you in reverse. Gets a little jumpy :car:
 
Last edited:
EimKeith Panhard bar correction extension

January 2021

Had this for probably at least 6 mos. Finally found a buddy that had a 220v welder.


Didn’t get any before pics but definitely very close to level now for the pan hard bar. Had a pretty bad angle previously. 4Runner handles better on bumps, and bounces more vertical at higher speeds instead of wagging like it did. Feels more stable in higher speed turns as well.




I need to get under there with a wire wheel and clean the whole underside up and then paint.
 
Last edited:
Heated seat pads added

January 2021

-I used these from Clazzio, since I have their leather seat covers.
Clazzio Leather Seat Covers - Heated Seats Page




-Here is the link I initially followed to tie into a 25A fuse in the engine bay.
non-OEM Seat Heater with Factory Fuse - How To

-I wound up using the green wire in the driver kick panel that ties into the 25A fuse into the engine compartment labeled as seat heaters. Green wire ends at the IC4 and goes no further.





-Did the Relay swap from the Tow to the IG to give it power. Bought a couple relays to fill the tow spot. Found a pair pretty cheap on eBay, I’ll have an extra when I need it…… IF I can find it at the time lol.





-Here’s my fuse box after I filled the missing IG relay



-Pulled the seats out and the Clazzio seat covers back to insert the heating pads.




-Drilled out the back side of the center console to add switches. I put them towards both edges which turned out to have clearance issues with the main console support underneath. Had to get after if with my cordless Dremel.







-Ran the wires and mounted the Relay for the kit under each seat.





-Definitely makes a huge difference as the leather Clazzio covers sure are cold in the morning in the winter! Went ahead and drilled a spot for my future “armed” power button for my push LED buttons in center console for when the dogs step on them and we’re not aware.
 
Last edited:
Great build thread! Love what you've done with the rig so far and thank you for including all the links to everything you've done. Super helpful!
 
Speedohealer and new gauge cluster lens installed

January 2021

*Speedohealer installed and calibrated

-Followed the install link thread by [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] for the install.
SpeedoHealer v4 in 4th Gen

-Bought the universal V4 kit as described in link. Found mine on EBay for a great price





-Didn’t bother with many pics. Here’s with it all apart.






-Here’s with it all wired in


-Speed is right on now, it was about 3-1/2 MPH off before. Not a biggie but nice to have it accurate as well as my Odometer and can get an accurate mpg rating. I had a couple MPH aps I used to double check speed.


-Replaced my scratched old original lens cover for my instrument cluster. Figured I might as well do it at the same time since I’d have it out anyways.



-How the new clear cluster gauge lens looks when brand new


Stoked about both. Not sure which I’m more excited about. Very nice to have such a transparent gauge cluster now. I’m trying hard not to scratch it and brush it off first before I wipe it off to help avoid all the swirly scratch marks that were on the old one. Toyota part#83852-35E50
 
Last edited:
Airlift 1000 airbag install

January 2021

-Airlift 1000 air bag kit install

-Finally bought a tire deflator and a big tire plug kit for my soft side case as well. Here’s the air bags I bought.
Amazon.com: AIR LIFT 60728 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit: Automotive





-It says not compatible with my 4Runner, because it’s an 8-1/2” bag and not a
6-1/2”. I went 2” longer due to my 2” rear lift.

-Used the bottle jack method on top of the axle to get the extra separation to get the spring out/in easier.


-Cut the bump stop in the last groove. It cuts pretty easy but you have to push it away from the knife to prevent pinching. I read where a lot of people had a hard time cutting it.


-Drilled out the base to route the airlines through. Deburred sharp edges when finished.




-Had a hell of a time getting the air bags into the springs. Took a lot of lube, prying and “influencing”! Spent a couple hours getting them in and a lot of hitting with 5lb sledge.


-Getting the springs back in and the airlines ran








I put the Scrhader valves underneath on the outside of my aftermarket HD tow bar to keep them out of sight. I used a Pneumadyne air valve switch to run them together or separate with the flip of a switch. I keep them running common all the time unless I need to load up with weight and need more stability. It makes it nice when airing up or checking psi. You can flip it to shared and you only have to use one valve, then flip back to single as needed.

I used JA’s method here from this link and got the idea about the air switch. Plus it has good information for the install as well.
https://www.top4runners.com/ja/2007/airlift.html



 
Last edited:
Fox 2.0 Shocks, Durobump bump stops, and 5th Gen TRD Pro shifter

February 2021

-Fox 2.0’s tuned by Accutune Offroad W/Resi’s installed in rear. They don’t come with boots, so I bought this universal one and left the axle side open.
Amazon.com: Rancho RS1952 Shock Absorber Bellows: Automotive

Seems to ride great and feels better than my Bilstein 5100’s I replaced these with. So far very happy.

-Installed Durobump extended bump stops in the rear while I was at it




-5th Gen TRD shifter

-I used the approach by [MENTION=112299]Formidable[/MENTION] on his 3rd post on this thread.
TRD Pro Shift Knob Installed


It took me a couple hours and was a pain to get it just right by making a lot of adjustments, but probably only take someone else 15 minutes haha. I don’t have the best of luck.

You only get 2-3 full turns before the shifter is seated too deep and won’t go into the lower gears. I used a bunch of blue locktight as well. The nuts are an m8 x 1.25 pitch.

 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,079
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top