To much Flex?

[downpour11]

Just keep a chain or strap with to wrap around the axle and something solid on the frame to limit droop if doing any work with a hi lift on the rear. (Insert typical disclaimer about never just using the hi lift to support the truck while you work on it and use proper jack stands/support)

^^^^ This. [MENTION=92510]Ol'Blue[/MENTION]

 

[snivilous]

Surprised no one has suggested this yet. Don't jack it up from the side jack it up from the rear. I'd use the rear hitch to jack from with the high lift.

The back end will still sag the same amount, since each side will droop the same.

Can someone answer this: If you have your sway bar disconnected, shouldn't the shock be the limiting factor on droop?

 

[mikebontoft]

yes until the axle breaks the shock lol.

I'm just messin with you anyway... I mod everything. even when I probably shouldn't

 

[white_n_slow]

You can also keep a piece of good plywood maybe 2' by 2' to set under the bottle jack for using it in the dirt/gravel.

 

[ugamurph]

So the next questions is? How do I change a flat on the back now,lol. Will I be able to jack it up with something else or will it just keep flexing?

Blue

I haven't read through the entire thread, so forgive me if I'm repeating what someone else said.

The simple answer to you're question is don't try to jack your truck up under the frame, sliders, etc with the hi lift to change a tire. Use a bottle jack under the axle to lift your tire off of the ground. With 31" tires, your axle will be no more than 12" from the ground. The stock jack would be sufficient. Even if you were running 35s... same solution.

Murph

 

[Broker]

The back end will still sag the same amount, since each side will droop the same.

Can someone answer this: If you have your sway bar disconnected, shouldn't the shock be the limiting factor on droop?

If you have stock links, the links will bind up and limit your droop first if the shocks you have will limit down travel, this is why after i went custom links i now have to run limit straps to prevent pulling the shock from the mount, which happened before.

I did that also to see. Lets just say it was sketchy. The jack moves allot. I will look into getting a bigger base plate at some point.

im guessing you just put the hi-lift i the receiver hitch, it would be sturdier to only lift one wheel at a time on the hi-lift, such as open the hatch to prevent hatch damage if it does decided to roll forward, and place the hi-lift to the side of the hitch on the side you want to lift. this should help a lot.

or use a floor jack on the axle and eliminate the suspension droop to get the wheel off the ground.

 

[Ol'Blue]

Thanks guys. I"m going to put some other type of jack in the truck also just to be safe.I have the stock bottle in there now but I might look at others also.

Blue

 

[KidVermicious]

I didn't see if it's been mentioned yet, but if you lift from in front of the rear wheel, a lot of your lifting force will go to the front of the truck as well, and it'll lift the whole side as much as it lifts the rear corner. If you lift from the corner, or immediately behind the rear wheel, you'll be able to get the tire off the ground with no trouble.

I did that also to see. Lets just say it was sketchy. The jack moves allot. I will look into getting a bigger base plate at some point.

Yup. Do not trust the hi lift, it will eat your face if you let it. If you HAD to jack from the rear reciever, chock both front wheels securely, or better yet have somebody in the cab with their foot on the brake.