prospectator
New member
I've got the Lisle 30800 and it works great.
Torn CV Boot question WITH PICS
- Thread starter daMicr0wav3
- Start date
I've got the Lisle 30800 and it works great.
Was just underneth my 99 runner and seen the following pic with the both inners torn:
Prospectator, how come you need 2 sets? Would it be for the inner and the outer boots for both sides. If so, does one kit come with one side; inner and outer?
Also, how easy is pulling off the axles to re-boot them? Do i need to pop off the ball joints?
Thanks fellas!
Prospectator, how come you need 2 sets? Would it be for the inner and the outer boots for both sides. If so, does one kit come with one side; inner and outer?
Also, how easy is pulling off the axles to re-boot them? Do i need to pop off the ball joints?
Thanks fellas!
prospectator
New member
Yeah you need one kit per axle. Remove the axle nut, and unbolt the lower ball joints and it will come right out. You don't even need to remove the rotor or caliper.
ventureadict
New member
I had the same problem. My boots tore because I carried a heavy trailer (too much tongue weight) for a long distance and had my adjustable coilovers (toytec) in front extended too much. Despite my diff drop, I still blew the inner boots.
IMO, I would keep your factory toyota front axles, instead of taking a chance on cheap steel replacements. Just pop them off and get them re-booted. Here are the part numbers for the 2 front boot sets (definitely do all 4 boots, both inner and outer on each of the 2 front axles, just for good measure):
1. Inner boots x2. Part number: 86-2318D. Cost: $ 27.13 EACH
2. Outer Boots x2. Part number: 86-2320D. Cost: $21.58 EACH
Good luck, and let me know what you decide to do.
IMO, I would keep your factory toyota front axles, instead of taking a chance on cheap steel replacements. Just pop them off and get them re-booted. Here are the part numbers for the 2 front boot sets (definitely do all 4 boots, both inner and outer on each of the 2 front axles, just for good measure):
1. Inner boots x2. Part number: 86-2318D. Cost: $ 27.13 EACH
2. Outer Boots x2. Part number: 86-2320D. Cost: $21.58 EACH
Good luck, and let me know what you decide to do.
prospectator
New member
The Toyota kit only runs about $31.74 per axle, and includes everything in the picture below.
Thanks prosp! So what can I do to stop this from happening again or prolong it from happening sooner than later? I have camburg coilovers and uca but no diff drop. Will the diff drop help this issue?
Also, I read when I change them out that I will loose some diff fluid. Is there a way I can avoid that step or is it impossible to get around?
When I pull off the lower ball joint and axle nut, is it a PITA to pull out the assembly from the diff or will it just slide out?
How about the Tie Rod End? No need to remove to pull out the assembly?
Thanks again guys!
Also, I read when I change them out that I will loose some diff fluid. Is there a way I can avoid that step or is it impossible to get around?
When I pull off the lower ball joint and axle nut, is it a PITA to pull out the assembly from the diff or will it just slide out?
How about the Tie Rod End? No need to remove to pull out the assembly?
Thanks again guys!
Last edited:
LittleCaesar
New member
Here ya go. It does not get more detailed than this:
Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas
Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas
LittleCaesar
New member
Remove the shaft, it will make it easier on you. It just takes a small pry bar, heck even a long, heavy screwdriver will work to pop it out. No slide hammer needed here.
Not to chide ya, but yes, you will need to replenish the fluid.
Not to chide ya, but yes, you will need to replenish the fluid.
tinman
New member
The lighter color grease in the see-through tube goes in the INNER CV. The dark grease in the white tube goes in the OUTER CV. I just re-booted my passenger side CV last weekend & it really isn't that bad. It's a mess, but a whole lot easier to deal with once the half-shaft is out from under the Runner.
Also, I jacked up my Runner so that the side I was working on (passenger side) was a little higher than the driver's side. In doing this I didn't lose very much diff fluid...so it may help if you can (safely) do that too. Also, I left the opposite side tire on for extra stability while I was working... Just my .02!
Have fun!
krenaud33
New member
What is the difference in greases? I have part# 200-0079 (lighter,125g per package) and part# 200-0075(dark 105g per package). FSM doesn't say which one goes where. It talks of 215-235 grams in the boot and 230-250 grams of grease in the tulip.
Scruffy
Junior Member
Mine did the same. I purchased a set of axles from auto zone and the seals that go up against the back of the spindles were all bent out of shape from shipping. They sent them back and the next set was the same way, so I did not except them, I order through advanced auto and that set was the same as the previous 2 sets. know im a little upset and pissed off so I ordered an after market set of inner extended length boots through Offroad Solutions shipped for about $120.00. They have been on for about 5 - 6 months now with no issues, I also replaced the outers at the same time with auto zone boots. The outers dont need to be extended length.I would recommend this route for a couple reasons: 1 your stock axles are alot better quality than after market ones. 2 Stock length boots might wear prematurely. And it isn't that difficult to do your self. there are alot of great post with all the info you need right here.
afg10000
New member
CVJ axles, Inc. out of Denver. I've posted many times about this. I don't think I've ever seen anyone lift a runner without the OEM boots failing. In my opinion, long travel boots are the way to go to ensure you've got plenty of room for flex. IIRC pricing long travel inner and outers was slightly less expensive than just ordering rebuilt custom ones from CVJ . It's easier to swap the axles than re-booting. I think the axles were $89 ea + $40 extra for the long travel outers. Check it out if you'd like. I dealt with a fella named Steve. He was very helpful -
The lighter color grease is for bearings (there are needle bearings in the inner CV) and the outers are a moly-reinforced grease for high pressure loads.
