Towing experiences with your 5th Generation

I looked underneath and found what seem to be the coverings for the 4 pin and round plug.

Should I just take this to my mechanic to deal with completely?

Or should I pick my own harness (recommendations?) and take it to him to install? (unless its as simple as plugging it in and wrapping it around the underbody I'm not doing it myself).

Or do I just click it in only when using and and take it off when not?

Will probably be uhauling a few long distance round trips in a few months when I move. The 6x12 is 4,400 lbs gross max.
I determined I'll need a ball with 2 1/4" drop.

Isn't the harness standard equipment? is yours not already wired there? you should just be able to plug in the trailer and be good to go.

maybe i'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do.
 
Isn't the harness standard equipment? is yours not already wired there? you should just be able to plug in the trailer and be good to go.

maybe i'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do.

The place to plug in is there.........I was assuming I needed a electrical wire harness for the plug that will go to the trailer. I don't think uhaul comes with them? I needed one on my blazer.
I bought my 20115 used from a dealer. There is no wire harness on it now. Nor in the glove box or anywhere.

So, I dont need a harness because I have the prewired plugs? Trailers have the harness that plugs into the SUV?


From the uhaul website.
In order to tow, your vehicle must be equipped with an adequate hitch system and lighting connections. Your hitch system includes the receiver hitch, ball mount and ball. The overall rating is determined by the lowest rated component of the three. How to determine your hitch system rating.
 
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The place to plug in is there.........I was assuming I needed a electrical wire harness for the plug that will go to the trailer. I don't think uhaul comes with them? I needed one on my blazer.
I bought my 20115 used from a dealer. There is no wire harness on it now. Nor in the glove box or anywhere.


From the uhaul website.
In order to tow, your vehicle must be equipped with an adequate hitch system and lighting connections. Your hitch system includes the receiver hitch, ball mount and ball. The overall rating is determined by the lowest rated component of the three. How to determine your hitch system rating.

the uhaul trailer will come with lights and wiring, you don't have to do anything other than pick it up.

what it sounds like your blazer needed was the wiring harness on the vehicle, that is what is already under the plastic flap thing on your 4runner.

all you need to buy is the ball mount with a 2" ball (class III if you plan on towing 4k lbs)

and if that trailer will be at max weight, you are supposed to use a sway control device per your owners manual (required over 2,000 lbs)

If the uhaul is an actual uhaul place that does hitch installs and stuff they should be able to sell you what you need, might want to call first about the sway control though
 
Ambros, if you're using a U-Haul trailer you don't need to do anything buy have the proper ball mount and ball. U-Haul trailers use hydraulic brakes, so there is no further wiring needed to tow a U-Haul trailer.

Also, U-Haul trailers do not support WD setups or sway control.
https://www.uhaul.com/Articles/Tips/122/Trailer-User-Instructions/

If you want to tow a trailer with electric brakes, then you'll need the plug-n-play harness (under the dash) to hook up to your brake controller.
 
Towed one of these UHauls this past weekend to get a bunch of trees and shrubs. https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/6x12-Utility-Trailer-With-Ramp-Rental/HO/ I have no doubt the trailer was 3000+ lbs with all the stuff in it. First, the 4R towed (4th gear max) better than anything else I've towed with, but that's been a slew of Subarus over the years. Being in the Denver area, I'm about 15-18% down on power due to altitude and was not running premium gas, which claims to gain nearly 15 hp and ft-lbs over regular. On flat ground, it towed very well. Once I started the climb back up to the house, you could really tell that there was a lack of power/torque, but the biggest issue was how tall first gear is. If first gear were a bit shorter, it would really make up for a lot of the lack of torque when taking off from a light on a hill. Other than that, it was a good experience...trailer tracked well and generally just towed really smooth, considering I was towing almost double what I'd previously done in the Subarus.

CFD09173-0777-4A21-9BC6-02838AB21317_zpsttautyzm.jpg~original
 
I recently purchased a 2016 TE 4Runner for a daily driver and an expedition rig. However, I also have an early 2000's TJ sitting on 37's (among other modifications) that I need to haul around once a month.

Anybody have experience towing a modified Wrangler on a car hauler (or something of equivalent weight)? Not sure the exact weight of the TJ but the trailer is a standard 16' car hauler. If I had to guess I would be towing 5500# or 6000#. I haven't seen any posts about towing this much so I was curious

I would be using a weight dirto hitch and bags in the back when towing.
 
Damn... some of you guys tow some pretty heavy loads with your 5th Gens.

I have a 5.3L V8 Chevy Silverado as well and I would still be complaining if I had to tow some of those things.

It's not that the 4Runner can't tow, I just hate that white knuckle feeling barreling down the highway and I miss the power when I have to climb hills. I always feel like I am on the wrong gear.
 
I'm going to throw out some stuff here, and hope I don't get flamed to a crisp...

;)

I just sold a Scamp 13' trailer that weighed in at about 1,500 lbs. When I bought that camper, I had a 2006 Honda CRV. It towed it pretty well, even at the SUV's max capacity. I kept the trailer pretty empty. It had electric brakes.

When I bought my T4R, I took into account the towing capacity, knowing I would upgrade my camper. At the time, I had no idea about the cross-member mounted receiver, which isn't really good for a WDH.

I am in the process of purchasing a Lance 1685, which has a dry weight of ~3,700 lbs. I KNOW it's going to sag the rear suspension, so I'm adding Firestone air assist bags. I plan on traveling with only about 10 gallons of water (<90 pounds), and keeping total gear to <500 pounds (~4300 total).

I can't seem to find the final word on WDH, but it seems like a bad idea for over torquing the cross-member without some leverage onto the frame. Maybe L-Brackets to join the cross-member and the frame would be good, so I may have that done in the future sometime.

I'll be towing the trailer through the Appalachian Mountains, so I expect I'll be using the truck lanes on uphill sections. I have a proportional brake controller.

I'll report back after the trip (if I make it). Kidding of course.

I expect to be actively engaged with the transmission....

Any thoughts or words of advice?

Just be wary of the overall weight in your camper...
Towing A Travel Trailer With a 6 Cyl Toyota 4 Runner? - Trailer Traveler


The Dark Side of Towing a Travel Trailer with a Toyota 4 Runner - Trailer Traveler
 
It was almost 2000 miles total, but I bought the trailer, used about 20 pounds in the bags, after the dealership installed the WDH. Locked out OD, and pulled that sucker across the Appalachians. Had to use third for some of the hills, but the vast majority of the drive was in 4th gear with TC locked.

I probably wouldn't full-time with this setup, but for going camping 4-5 times a year, between 2 and 10 hours time for getting there, this combo works just fine.

BTW, I have a digital proportional brake controller, and it is set pretty aggressively. I like it that way.
open
 
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I have gone on many longer trips pulling my pontoon boat along with camping gear and a dog.

Estimate the gross boat and trailer wait at 4300 loaded, another 700 of people, gear and dog in the car.

Honestly it pulls quite well. It is very happy at 65mph in 4th gear getting 10mpg.

I have and HIGHLY recommend you get rear airbags installed for safety and stability. Well worth $200.

I also have a transmission cooler installed and monitor my transmission temperatures with an OBD2 adapter. Trans temps stay at a consistent 170 F and that is in 90 degree heat.

Mainly in Wisconsin which is hilly in many parts but no mountains. Trans will spike maybe twice a trip to the 190s on the very long inclines for less than 1 minute.

Unless you live in the mountains I do not see any reason you would have trouble pulling a large pontoon and heavy double axle trailer. Mine has surge breaks and everything stops very quick for so much weight. I would not pull without trailer breaks (have tried it on the 4runner and took way to long to slow things down).

Just drive safe at 65, give yourself room, stay alert and you are all set!
4da056d48ae5a501009631e42d1609e8.jpg
ef5c49d59279ec135491b8b6493317e6.jpg


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I have gone on many longer trips pulling my pontoon boat along with camping gear and a dog.

Estimate the gross boat and trailer wait at 4300 loaded, another 700 of people, gear and dog in the car.

Honestly it pulls quite well. It is very happy at 65mph in 4th gear getting 10mpg.

I have and HIGHLY recommend you get rear airbags installed for safety and stability. Well worth $200.

I also have a transmission cooler installed and monitor my transmission temperatures with an OBD2 adapter. Trans temps stay at a consistent 170 F and that is in 90 degree heat.

Mainly in Wisconsin which is hilly in many parts but no mountains. Trans will spike maybe twice a trip to the 190s on the very long inclines for less than 1 minute.

Unless you live in the mountains I do not see any reason you would have trouble pulling a large pontoon and heavy double axle trailer. Mine has surge breaks and everything stops very quick for so much weight. I would not pull without trailer breaks (have tried it on the 4runner and took way to long to slow things down).

Just drive safe at 65, give yourself room, stay alert and you are all set!
4da056d48ae5a501009631e42d1609e8.jpg
ef5c49d59279ec135491b8b6493317e6.jpg


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One more pic
7ebecfe460802abaae6f47ffa0d2e817.jpg


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I towed the largest enclosed Uhaul trailer fully loaded from Columbus OH to Phoenix AZ in my stock 2016 TEP with no problems at all, just shy of 2000 miles over 3 days. I would guess the trailer and contents to be around 4400lbs, about 390lbs of human, 160lbs of dog, and 100lbs of bags inside the 4Runner . I was surprised at how well the 4Runner handled the trailer at freeway speeds, pulled at 75mph with ease in S4. Averaged about 14mpg from OH to CO. Through the mountains of NM and AZ got about 11mpg. It did struggle a little on the long uphill stretches, but dropped to S3 or S2 depending on the incline and kept the rpm around 4000 and never doubted it would make it to the top. My hitch has a 2" drop and was the perfect height for the Uhaul, everything balanced great, probably about a 3 inch sag, front end felt a little light when steering but never experienced excessive sway issues. I took a lot of care when loading the trailer to make sure the weight was distributed correctly.
3fececfd50b0a685a2ab89873243fb00.jpg


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I towed the largest enclosed Uhaul trailer fully loaded from Columbus OH to Phoenix AZ in my stock 2016 TEP with no problems at all, just shy of 2000 miles over 3 days. I would guess the trailer and contents to be around 4400lbs, about 390lbs of human, 160lbs of dog, and 100lbs of bags inside the 4Runner . I was surprised at how well the 4Runner handled the trailer at freeway speeds, pulled at 75mph with ease in S4. Averaged about 14mpg from OH to CO. Through the mountains of NM and AZ got about 11mpg. It did struggle a little on the long uphill stretches, but dropped to S3 or S2 depending on the incline and kept the rpm around 4000 and never doubted it would make it to the top. My hitch has a 2" drop and was the perfect height for the Uhaul, everything balanced great, probably about a 3 inch sag, front end felt a little light when steering but never experienced excessive sway issues. I took a lot of care when loading the trailer to make sure the weight was distributed correctly.
3fececfd50b0a685a2ab89873243fb00.jpg

I made a similar trip in my 2003 4Runner from Northern Colorado to San Antonio. No problems.

...still wish I had airbags then.
 
Towed my boat to the lake. Wasn't sure if it would be okay on the hills without an engine brake. I made it safely though!
 

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I've pulled a Jayco 12HW to Big Bear and Arrowhead in SoCal with some effort but overall good handling. There are areas with 7% grade, and the trailer is around 3500lbs loaded. Family of 5 and gear all present. I installed the Firestone air ride which does a great job, and the trailer has surge brakes too.
 

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That's a crazy story. Sway is not only predictable with a relatively simple formula (and tongue weight is NOT the only important factor), but also easily managed with proper load distribution. Centering the trailer weight near the axle is equally important in predicting trailer sway. loading a bunch of weight in the rear cargo area or near the front of the trailer is a recipe for disaster. And most people are taught that 10% or 15% tongue weight is the solution. I was always taught that. And I think it's reasonable to use if you assume the trailer manufacturers are taking care of the rest of the balance in the engineering of the trailers. But unfortunately it's not always safe to rely on the manufacturer. It's not that hard to load a trailer with zero tongue weight that tows beautifully, and one with 15% tongue weight that will sway out of control at highway speeds. It's not a bad rule of thumb for tongue weight - but it's also not a complete solution either. There's a bit more to it than that.

It looks like those folks probably did a number of things wrong that added up to a catastrophic failure. A 4runner should be more than capable of towing a 16 foot trailer safely. And the wreck was from poor trailer dynamics, not the tow vehicle. If the trailer hit the side of the 4runner - there's no way it would not have also hit the side of an f150. I looked at the design and that trailer has the fresh water tank forward, but mostly centered on the axle, and the waste water tanks aft - further from the axle center. So empty fresh water and full waste water tanks shifts weight aft and further from axle center both contributing to greater sway tendency. A trailer that might be right at the margin with full fresh and empty waste tanks, could be unsafe when you leave your camp site with as much as 4-600lbs of weight moved 8 feet further back and away from the axle on a 16' trailer. IMO it's a questionable design choice to assume that everyone will empty the holding tanks before hitting the highway.

It's very fortunate that they had a positive outcome. The fact that the trailer flipped and they were able to keep the 4runner with the tires on the ground was luck and/or pretty capable driving and skid control after things went downhill.
 
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Risky! That's gotta be close to 8000 oz!

Believe it or not - I did it without trailer brakes. And I even had the paddles in the trailer too!

I would normally put that on the roof, but that state park access to the lake has pretty small parking lot - and it's usually full. Monday was a holiday here so parking was full. But the trailer parking usually has spots - and you're only allowed to park there if you have a trailer. So...
 

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