Toyota 0W-20 vs Amsoil 0W-20

TOYSTRY

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Been reading BITOG for a few hours now, searched every variant on this forum but haven't seen any inputs on pros/cons of running Toyota's Synthetic vice Amsoil Synthetic.

I've run Amsoil in all of my past vehicles but the research I've seen tonight shows Toyota to be more then sufficient and a saving of $3.00 per quart over Amsoil.

Thoughts from some of the more seasoned, experienced folks here?
 
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Honestly? I think that both synthetics are good and if there is an advantage with one of them we"ll never know it because we are not racing the BAJA 1000 and needing maximum performance. I think both will protect adquately for normal duty cycles. Hopefully Homeyclaus or Koz will step in because one or the other really did some research into Amsoil products. I have read a lot and personally am fine with either.
 
Honestly? I think that both synthetics are good and if there is an advantage with one of them we"ll never know it because we are not racing the BAJA 1000 and needing maximum performance. I think both will protect adquately for normal duty cycles. Hopefully Homeyclaus or Koz will step in because one or the other really did some research into Amsoil products. I have read a lot and personally am fine with either.

That was my thought as well - and Koz was the one when I did my research that was the biggest Amsoil advocate. Given my driving conditions (5 miles to/from work), I'm thinking the Toyota synthetic is good enough. Changing the oil at 10,000 or year mark seems more then adequate.
 
That was my thought as well - and Koz was the one when I did my research that was the biggest Amsoil advocate. Given my driving conditions (5 miles to/from work), I'm thinking the Toyota synthetic is good enough. Changing the oil at 10,000 or year mark seems more then adequate.

Actually, that type of short commute may put you on the 5000 mile OCI schedule, but I'd double check your warranty and maintenance guide.

Based on the virgin oil analyses posted on bitog, Toyota 0W20 seems to outperform everything at cold starting until somewhere around -20, where PetroCanada (naturally) and Mobil 0W20 seem to do better. Another alternative to the Toyota oil is oil from Honda, it's pretty close.

Remember, most of your engine wear is at a cold start, not running hot, so this is the yardstick by which you generally want to measure your oil. It's also why going to a heavier weight oil gets you next to nothing in terms of overall engine life, and may in fact be detrimental. Cold starts are where the oil is at less than 150F/70C, not the SoCal definition of "cold".
 
we"ll never know it because we are not racing the BAJA 1000

Never say never. If you want, I could ask my friends who run the baja 1000...

Also, the dealer I bought from told me that yes, the synthetic oil doesn't need to be changed as often, but that it should be changed at every 5000 mile check up by the dealer. Not saying the oil should be changed, just saying the dealer should change it.
 
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Never say never. If you want, I could ask my friends who run the baja 1000...

Also, the dealer I bought from told me that yes, the synthetic oil doesn't need to be changed as often, but that it should be changed at every 5000 mile check up by the dealer. Not saying the oil should be changed, just saying the dealer should change it.

My point being that most do not keep the needle bouncng off redline in a super dusty environment for 1000 miles lol.

So, what reason did your dealer tell you on why they should be the only ones to change it at 5,000 miles, against the recommendations of the manufacturer?
 
I will not post in another oil thread...

I will not post in another oil thread...

I will not post in another oil thread...
 
^ me either but to ask how often you guys are changing your oil. The manual says 10k miles but..............:hungry:
 
antman, i'd love to hear your opinion:lmao:


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I always thought it was strange that people got so obsessive over oil. I've never been a firm believer that running X brand over Y brand will result in any significant difference in the life of my engine... I would think that making sure its always changed on time or ahead of schedule would be more important than what brand you run....

All I know is that people have been getting 100's of thousands of miles out of 4runners since they were running on the old dino goop. I'm sure any synthetic is better than that.
 
7 Urban legends about motor oil............according to Edmunds ,who also could be making this sheet up!

I usually go by taste......... with a little oil and vinegar dressing for my salad!

Top 7 Urban Legends About Motor Oil - Edmunds.com

"However, a Honda spokesman says its cars come from the factory with a special oil formulation for the break-in period. Honda advises owners to not change the oil early"

Interesting. I remember there being a lot of debate about whether or not 'break in oil' was a real thing or not. Not sure if it was on this forum though...
 
Very nice. Nobody will read it though and those few who do will say it's blasphemy published by the Devil himself.

Dork alert, I read it. However, I am horrified to learn that I can no longer determine my remaining oil life by taste.

Change every 5K, sleep like a baby.
 
One of the things to compare would be the ZDDP in ppm side by side. However I would doubt they would change that much between the two due to their weight and emissions category they have to meet. If you want to run that I would suggest ya'll add some redline engine break in additive and/or up the weight.
 
"However, a Honda spokesman says its cars come from the factory with a special oil formulation for the break-in period. Honda advises owners to not change the oil early"

Interesting. I remember there being a lot of debate about whether or not 'break in oil' was a real thing or not. Not sure if it was on this forum though...

You needed to do this for Detroit and Windsor products until the mid 80's, because the people assembling them didn't care to do what it took to remove the metal shavings and other manufacturing detrius. These are the same people who grumbled that "the Japs" were taking their car-building jobs.

The Japanese have always been big on white glove engine assembly. As far as the additive goes, without a lab result, nobody will know.
 
"However, a Honda spokesman says its cars come from the factory with a special oil formulation for the break-in period. Honda advises owners to not change the oil early"

Interesting. I remember there being a lot of debate about whether or not 'break in oil' was a real thing or not. Not sure if it was on this forum though...

My wife drives a 2010 Acura TL and has the oil monitoring system so I whach that closely. With that being said, I still changed the oil at 1,000 miles and change it every 5,000 miles. If I relied on the system to tell me when to change the oil it could be 10,000 + miles before I would change it. No thanks.
 
I am not current on the latest oils, but Exxon/mobil used to provide the oil that is labelled Toyota Motor oil.

The parts people like to say this, but most stealership counter people know less about what they are selling than gun store people. Voa results posted on bitog show a significant difference, so even if it's made by xom it is a very different formulation.
 

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