Is this just a bunch of hype, or are the dealers actually selling the vehicles cheaper than they normally do? I was planning on purchasing a new 4-Runner in April, but with this national sales event, I'm wondering if I'd get a better deal now. Am looking for a V8 sport, haven't decided on the color - either silver or mica blue, or galatic gray.
Toyota Sales Event question.
- Thread starter ScottAW
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NoDak
Senior Member
on the sales event/toyota specials that starts on 3/2 and ends on 4/5 these are the vehicles that are covered:
2003/2004 Camry Specials
2003/2004 Corolla Specials
2003/2004 Matrix Specials
2003/2004 Highlander Specials
2004 Tacoma Specials
2004 Tundra Specials
unless you are getting one of the above, then the event is pretty much useless. typically 4runners/avalons (cressida) have never had rebates on them since these are low volume/high priced vehicles compared to the other vehicles toyota sells
most of the time, toyota doesnt have rebates or incentives (excluding college/military ones) since toyota's dont usually have a problem selling vehicles like the domestics which usually need heavy rebates, etc on them to sell.
2003/2004 Camry Specials
2003/2004 Corolla Specials
2003/2004 Matrix Specials
2003/2004 Highlander Specials
2004 Tacoma Specials
2004 Tundra Specials
unless you are getting one of the above, then the event is pretty much useless. typically 4runners/avalons (cressida) have never had rebates on them since these are low volume/high priced vehicles compared to the other vehicles toyota sells
most of the time, toyota doesnt have rebates or incentives (excluding college/military ones) since toyota's dont usually have a problem selling vehicles like the domestics which usually need heavy rebates, etc on them to sell.
Last edited:
rando
Senior Member
NoDak said:
There's been a $750 factory to consumer rebate on the 04 4runners for months. The current offer expires 4/05 but don't be suprised if it's renewed (again). Also, for the last two months, ConuserGuide reported a $400 factory to dealer incentive though it's no longer listed.
Ignore sales hype. In general, you can get the good deal at ANY time. It's just a matter of planning your negotiating strategy appropriately. To get the best deal, you need to discover when a particular dealer has extra incentive to move the vehicle you want. Quite often dealers are given incentives by the manufacturers to move a certain quota of vehicles. If they hit the quota, they get the pay out. If you happen to time your purchase near the end of the quota period (often near the end of the month) and your purchase is the one that will put them over the top, you can expect to be greated with a smooth transaction and an excellent deal. Other good times are generally when business is slow (week days, rainy weekend nights, end of the month, between christmas and new years, or a combination of these).
mam4994
New member
You might want to look at different regions. When I was looking to purchase, the Tulsa and Oklahoma City dealers were all giving 0.0% APR for 36, while the lowest Kansas dealers were going was around 3.3%.
But, I agree with Rando, "you can get the good deal at ANY time. It's just a matter of planning your negotiating strategy appropriately. To get the best deal, you need to discover when a particular dealer has extra incentive to move the vehicle you want."
But, I agree with Rando, "you can get the good deal at ANY time. It's just a matter of planning your negotiating strategy appropriately. To get the best deal, you need to discover when a particular dealer has extra incentive to move the vehicle you want."
ToolmanJohn
New member
factory financing , rebates, and a FAX
Get all information online about the rebates. Sometimes they are regional and you must ask the dealer what rebates/incentives are aavailable.
Sometimes the lowball financing only applies to specific models. This was true last year when I bought my 4runner. The 2.9% 60 months was not for the 4runners.
I was able to get 3.8% for 60 months by telling the dealer I could get 3.9% from the local credit union (which was true). I had my letter of approval fromt the CU. Their FIRST quote for factory financing was 6%. LOL!
Finally, FAX them, attn: Internet Sales or Fleet Sales Manager, and ask them straight out, you want such and such vehicle with a minimum equipment list blah blah your minimum requirements. DO NOT TELL THEM THE PRICE YOU ARE WILLING TO PAY. ASK for their lowest price and tell them when you will make a desicion in your fax. Don't screw around. make it clear that you are contacting several dealers for that particular vehicle. Buy it from the lowest quoted one. Usually you will be inside the invoice price by a couple hundred or closer. Rebates/Incentives should ONLY aplly AFTER their best price without the incentives. Get the REAL sale price.
Leave them your phone contact, or even better, have them FAX you back with their response. Some dealerships will be very quick to respond, some won't even fax back.
Hope this helps. This is the only way I buy vehicles now. When you walk into a dealership, it costs them NOTHING to trap you in endless negotiations for HOURS of haggling. They have alll the time in the world to sell the car, and talk is free. Costs them nothing. They are hoping you get disgusted and break down and buy the car. If this dealer is close to you, they know that you want to purchse locally.
Hope this helps. It actually works.
Get all information online about the rebates. Sometimes they are regional and you must ask the dealer what rebates/incentives are aavailable.
Sometimes the lowball financing only applies to specific models. This was true last year when I bought my 4runner. The 2.9% 60 months was not for the 4runners.
I was able to get 3.8% for 60 months by telling the dealer I could get 3.9% from the local credit union (which was true). I had my letter of approval fromt the CU. Their FIRST quote for factory financing was 6%. LOL!
Finally, FAX them, attn: Internet Sales or Fleet Sales Manager, and ask them straight out, you want such and such vehicle with a minimum equipment list blah blah your minimum requirements. DO NOT TELL THEM THE PRICE YOU ARE WILLING TO PAY. ASK for their lowest price and tell them when you will make a desicion in your fax. Don't screw around. make it clear that you are contacting several dealers for that particular vehicle. Buy it from the lowest quoted one. Usually you will be inside the invoice price by a couple hundred or closer. Rebates/Incentives should ONLY aplly AFTER their best price without the incentives. Get the REAL sale price.
Leave them your phone contact, or even better, have them FAX you back with their response. Some dealerships will be very quick to respond, some won't even fax back.
Hope this helps. This is the only way I buy vehicles now. When you walk into a dealership, it costs them NOTHING to trap you in endless negotiations for HOURS of haggling. They have alll the time in the world to sell the car, and talk is free. Costs them nothing. They are hoping you get disgusted and break down and buy the car. If this dealer is close to you, they know that you want to purchse locally.
Hope this helps. It actually works.
rando
Senior Member
Re: factory financing , rebates, and a FAX
The FAX attack is another proven method. I've always been more successful dealing face to face. I wasn't able to get below 500 over invoice using a combination of fax, fleet, and internet sales people. I was $300 under invoice in 5 minutes by doing it face to face. It's all a matter of personal style.
BTW, there is no way you should ever feel trapped. You can get up and walk out of a dealership at any time. You don't have to be rude. You don't even have to say a word. Just get up and leave. They'll understand. If the salesman has you on the lot, 90% of his work is done. If he lets you leave, he knows his chance of ever making a sale is near ZERO. Use this to your advantage. If you're really ready to buy, do it face to face. Make your offer and stick to it. If they don't take the deal you can be CERTAIN, your offer was too low for THAT DEALER or they didn't believe you were a real buyer. Remeber, you must make them believe that you're for real AND that you will not budge even another $1.
ToolmanJohn said:
The FAX attack is another proven method. I've always been more successful dealing face to face. I wasn't able to get below 500 over invoice using a combination of fax, fleet, and internet sales people. I was $300 under invoice in 5 minutes by doing it face to face. It's all a matter of personal style.
BTW, there is no way you should ever feel trapped. You can get up and walk out of a dealership at any time. You don't have to be rude. You don't even have to say a word. Just get up and leave. They'll understand. If the salesman has you on the lot, 90% of his work is done. If he lets you leave, he knows his chance of ever making a sale is near ZERO. Use this to your advantage. If you're really ready to buy, do it face to face. Make your offer and stick to it. If they don't take the deal you can be CERTAIN, your offer was too low for THAT DEALER or they didn't believe you were a real buyer. Remeber, you must make them believe that you're for real AND that you will not budge even another $1.
AsianPersuasion
New member
In NY, most events are hype. Funny, I waited for almost 6 months for an improved interest rate which applied for almost every car but no trucks.
NoDak
Senior Member
you could try here. just put your zip in and this will tell you all the incentives toyota has currently.
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.rm?kbb&&884&/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.tp?kbb&&627&inc1
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.rm?kbb&&884&/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.tp?kbb&&627&inc1
o9stealth5
New member
I dont think you save much from sales events. Here in So Cal though, your best bets are those "1 at this price" sales where the car is selling at or below invoice. (you know, the ads where none of your friends will believe that they actually sell those cars.) That's how I got my '03 for $22,688 3 weeks after they were released. All you have to do is wake up at 7 and show up to the dealer 1/2 an hour before it opens, show them the ad and they'll take you to the car. I bought mine from Family Toyota in San Juan Capistrano back in late 2002.
4Runner cash incentive.
Just today I got in the mail a nice glossy brochure for the "Toyota Nationwide Sales Event" and the cash incentive for 2003, 2004 4Runners is still at $750.
I got 4.1%, 5 year financing (with a credit rating in the 700s) when I purchased mine last month.
Just today I got in the mail a nice glossy brochure for the "Toyota Nationwide Sales Event" and the cash incentive for 2003, 2004 4Runners is still at $750.
I got 4.1%, 5 year financing (with a credit rating in the 700s) when I purchased mine last month.
srbigbutt
New member
This is off of Fred Hass Toyota's website here in Houston...
2004 4Runner
$1,000 Customer Cash
Or
0.0% APR for 36 Months
All New 2004 Toyota 4Runner
$1,000 Customer Cash Back Savings from Toyota Motor Sales, Gulf States Toyota and Toyota Dealers Association on all new in-stock only 2004 Toyota 4Runner. $1,000 Customer Cash Back not available with Special APR. Special APR from Gulf States Toyota on all new in-stock only 2004 Toyota 4Runner. 0.0% Annual Percentage Rates (APR) on all new 2004 Toyota 4Runner available to Tier I and Tier II customers with approved credit through Toyota Financial Services only. Special APR available on 36 month loans, monthly payments of $27.78 per $1,000.00 borrowed.
2004 4Runner
$1,000 Customer Cash
Or
0.0% APR for 36 Months
All New 2004 Toyota 4Runner
$1,000 Customer Cash Back Savings from Toyota Motor Sales, Gulf States Toyota and Toyota Dealers Association on all new in-stock only 2004 Toyota 4Runner. $1,000 Customer Cash Back not available with Special APR. Special APR from Gulf States Toyota on all new in-stock only 2004 Toyota 4Runner. 0.0% Annual Percentage Rates (APR) on all new 2004 Toyota 4Runner available to Tier I and Tier II customers with approved credit through Toyota Financial Services only. Special APR available on 36 month loans, monthly payments of $27.78 per $1,000.00 borrowed.
