Toytec Ultimate BOSS

TPatt88

TPatt88

New member
Anyone running this lift yet? BOSS Suspension System for 10+ 4Runner and FJ
It looks to be a new setup from them that seems to be a nice off-shoot from the standard Toytec Ultimate which is already a pretty good value cost wise.

I tried searching it out in the 5th Gen section for any mention of it but don't see it anywhere.

Anyways looks like a nice lift for some of us budget minded folks wanted to see what the world knows about it yet, and any pro's/con's compared to the typical Ultimate and other lifts out there.

Thanks!
Tim
 
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I was curious about this as well, I left a message on their facebook page asking about the differences. Will post up here if/when they respond.
 
gadgetguy1288 said:
I was curious about this as well, I left a message on their facebook page asking about the differences. Will post up here if/when they respond.
Click to expand...

This is from the ToyTec Vendor threads. Looks like they are making the shocks for the Boss Kit.
ToyTec Lifts said:
The main difference is the front shock itself. We have run the Bilsteins for many miles both on road and off road and they are a great setup. However, we felt that the valving could be improved to help with additional weight handling. By tweaking the valving, we were able to get them to provide much more control over bumpy terrain and still give a really nice ride. Also, the shock shaft has been bumped to 5/8's for some additional strength and the gas pressure raised a bit to help reduce shock fade. Before we ship them, every shock is thrown on the shock dyno and tested to make sure that everything is built exactly to spec.
Click to expand...
 
I am also interested in this lift. I want to get rid of the spacer lift I currently have.

I am kicking the idea around between the ARB Mediums and the Boss kit. ARB is only a few blocks away from my work, but i have not had time to go over there.

My goal is to get as close as to 3" lift as possible with it being as close to level as possible.

I will not being adding any weight to the front or rear end, maybe a rack. However, Ride is a priority!

My goal is not to toss a bunch of money into a rig that I won’t be wheeling.

Although I want to make it look tougher then it will be. :)

Opinions anyone?
 
qytetyja.jpg


After I load up on turkey these are going on.
 
Today was the first day that I really got to drive around with them ~60 miles and I'm very happy with them so far. Also I'm running the Bilstein 5160s in the rear and installed LR UCAs with the latest bushing version. My front sway bar is completely removed at this point and I don't notice anymore body roll than when I had the stock setup. Nose dive is gone and they are firm over bumps but stays very composed and and doesn't feel overly harsh. It did feel a little floaty on the highway this morning but I think that may have been the wind and I think the alignment is not 100%. Going to have it redone. Also I have been driving our 2011 VW Golf TDi for the past week which may be why it felt floaty and like it was wandering. SCS Stealth 6 wheels showed up yesterday so those will go on Friday morning with some 285 Duratracs that I have had kicking around. I have been getting home after dark so I will definitely get pics Friday. Hope to have it in the dirt to flex it and see how it feels.

On a side note to those who are unsure if they are going to tackle the install themselves, it is fairly straight forward and moves along pretty quick with an extra set of hands. Just plan to take your time and make sure you have everything you need before you start. Also it may not be a bad idea to ask for a second spanner for the coilovers. My coilovers arrived set pretty high and I managed to break the spanner after adjusting only one side. I did manage to do the other with a strap wrench, but not sure how well that will work moving forward.
 
Also if anyone plans on using the 5160s the bracket they come with pretty much sucks. They bolt into an existing threaded hole as well as use this L shaped bolt to hook into another existing hole as there is no rear access to the hole. I lost two L shaped bolts into the rabbit hole so I ended up purchasing their billet mount which holds the resi to the main shock body. Here's what the billet mount looks like.

e3ygube8.jpg
 
mace. said:
Also if anyone plans on using the 5160s the bracket they come with pretty much sucks. They bolt into an existing threaded hole as well as use this L shaped bolt to hook into another existing hole as there is no rear access to the hole. I lost two L shaped bolts into the rabbit hole so I ended up purchasing their billet mount which holds the resi to the main shock body. Here's what the billet mount looks like.

e3ygube8.jpg
Click to expand...

When you do take some photos can you snap some of the billet mount, I'm thinking I want these as well.

-J
 
Are the coil overs adjustable without removing the front wheels? I know the knock on the ULK was they needed to be adjusted with the wheels off. Looks like a very nice setup and not too harsh on the wallet.
 
PhoRunner said:
Are the coil overs adjustable without removing the front wheels? I know the knock on the ULK was they needed to be adjusted with the wheels off. Looks like a very nice setup and not too harsh on the wallet.
Click to expand...

Someone's going to adjust the ride height of a vehicle and is bothered by taking the wheels off?! I would be annoyed if I had to leave the wheels on to adjust anything. Just seems backasswards to me.
 
Ducmonsta said:
Someone's going to adjust the ride height of a vehicle and is bothered by taking the wheels off?! I would be annoyed if I had to leave the wheels on to adjust anything. Just seems backasswards to me.
Click to expand...

I'm with @Ducamonsta . I think you would end up spending more time and effort trying to do it with the wheels on than off. I may be wrong but I don't think any of the other coilovers would be any different to adjust.
 
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