Toytec Ultimate BOSS
- Thread starter TPatt88
- Start date
Jhalko
New member
Probably still be able to stay in spec with the castor at that height, but you won't get the full down travel of the shock with factory, it'll still ride great, just make sure you get a good alignment. At 2.5" I was just out of spec, it drove ok, but I'm happier with the ride replacing the UCA.
RIKE_A_BOSS
New member
Anyone know anything about the new Boss 2.5
Jhalko
New member
They are new and I've yet to see anyone on here with them. Buy them and tell us how they are!!!
team_gforce
New member
Have them on order, waiting for backordered springs (still). Will likely start a build thread and have a write-up on them soon.
RIKE_A_BOSS
New member
Is the only difference between the 2.0 and 2.5 the thickness or can it take more weight
team_gforce
New member
The 2.5 has a 7/8" diameter shock piston with a 2.5" shock body. The bigger body helps to add more fluid capacity without having to to go full on remote reservoir, sort of an in-between option. The front & rear springs and the rear shocks are the same between the 2.0 and 2.5 to the best of my knowledge.
RIKE_A_BOSS
New member
You
Sorry new to understand ring all this so basically since it's bigger it will also allow for faster response and less over heating? Then the 2.0
Jhalko
New member
Springs would dictate weight, it should be a valving difference, my suspension knowledge is pretty limited compared to many on this site though.
Yeah I think teamgforce nailed it.
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team_gforce
New member
Basically yes. The most notable difference in the two choices is the front shock.
From the Toytec site:
Choose front coilover options:
TTFCS2005 - ToyTec’s BOSS standard 2.0 front Coilover -designed with a larger 5/8” nitro steel shock shaft which is much more corrosion resistant than chrome plating and is valved specific to your vehicle, improving the overall handling and performance. The threaded Clear-Blue Chromate zinc plated steel shock body is adjustable from 0-3” of front lift height and can be fine tuned to level your truck side to side and front to back. Each shock has a 200 psi gas charge and is dyno’d before it ships. Upper mounts and adjustment rings are machined from 6061-T6 Billet aluminum and are then anodized black to prevent corrosion. TIG welded spanner wrenches are included for easy adjustment. We only use Eibach springs for our coilovers which means you have the best name and quality in the business supporting your vehicle. Comes fully assembled and ready to bolt on for easy install. Includes sway bar relocate bracket needed for clearance. All parts are 100% made in the U.S.A.
Or
TTBOSS25 - Toytec 2.5 Series Performance front coilovers -Fully adjustable from 1-3" of lift. Shock bodies are 2.5" in diameter providing additional oil over standard OEM shocks. Internal Floating Piston design which allows the shock perform more efficiently when mounted at an angle and provides a predictable ride quality capable of handling the roughest conditions. Available with red or silver 650 lb spring rate coil springs. Spherical heim joints at both ends for maximum available travel. 7/8" Nitro-steel piston shafts. These shocks are fully rebuildable. Includes sway bar relocate bracket needed for clearance.
RIKE_A_BOSS
New member
Yeah read that where it says 650 lb spring rate what's the spring rate for the 2.0?
RIKE_A_BOSS
New member
Did you order the super flex or HD
team_gforce
New member
Personally, I went with the Super Flex. I dont often have the need for the HD springs, any thing that heavy goes in the back of the Tundy. As for the spring rate on the 2.0, would probably have to contact Toytec directly, I cant seem to find it right off.
G8RB8_12SR5
New member
So I saw this thread for the first time in quite a while. I've had my Boss set up for just about 11k miles. So far everything is fantastic, ride wise, I couldn't ask for better plus the wife likes the lifted look so much that if and when I switch to a pickup she wants me to lift it before it leaves the lot (there are worse things in life). The only thing I've noticed is that either the rear swaybar connections or lower shock mounts squeak over speed bumps at low speed and I only noticed this when I had the windows open, never would have noticed otherwise. It doesn't really bother me at all and eventually I'll crawl under and retorque everything and go from there but until then I'm not concerned about it. I've also towed 4950lbs with it 3 times about a mile each way. When combined with AirLift 1000 airbags and some adjustments to the weight distribution hitch, it tows decently with a nearly level truck the whole time. They make the Boss system for the F150s which is most likely my replacement vehicle, so I'm looking forward to hopefully the same ride quality I have been getting out of this setup. Planted but not too firm.
Disclosure: mine is set for 2.5" in the front to maintain stock rake.
Disclosure: mine is set for 2.5" in the front to maintain stock rake.
team_gforce
New member
Just finished the install of the 2.5 BOSS kit. Install was pretty easy, and I cant say enough how much of a treat it was to work on a fairly new car. The project required exactly ZERO sprays of PB Blaster and no cheater bars. While total time was probably in the half-a-day range for front and rear, i had it spaced out over a hour or two at time for several days. Working on it the evenings after work and getting over a chest cold so motivation was lower than usual.
So far the lift has netted me:
LF: +3 5/16" >> readjusted to +2 11/16"
RF: +3 1/2" >> readjusted to +3"
LR: + 2 13/16"
RR: + 2 3/8"
The rear was done with the Toytec RCC2.0 springs. Does anyone know how much I might expect these to "settle", if any? I still need to even it out side-to-side, but if the rear is going to settle any after some break-in then i may adjust down closer to 2.5" total in the front to keep the rake a bit nose-down. Also hoping that going closer to 2.5" I can avoid having to do UCA immediately. Pretty well tapped the bank on the lift and tires (though the Alaska dividend is about to pay out).
Don't have too many miles on them yet, tires and alignment scheduled for Wednesday; but so far can say that nose dive under breaking is gone and corning is smooth. Potholes are little more abrasive, but only notice the initial hit and not a lot of bouncing/rebound, so it seems to control the energy quickly. There are only 2 roads here considered "highways" and I have no reason to be on them yet, so no report on highway manners yet (especially until the alignment is done). Stock suspension only had ~14k miles on it so i think it's a pretty fair comparison rather than comparing new lift to old stock.
So far the lift has netted me:
LF: +3 5/16" >> readjusted to +2 11/16"
RF: +3 1/2" >> readjusted to +3"
LR: + 2 13/16"
RR: + 2 3/8"
The rear was done with the Toytec RCC2.0 springs. Does anyone know how much I might expect these to "settle", if any? I still need to even it out side-to-side, but if the rear is going to settle any after some break-in then i may adjust down closer to 2.5" total in the front to keep the rake a bit nose-down. Also hoping that going closer to 2.5" I can avoid having to do UCA immediately. Pretty well tapped the bank on the lift and tires (though the Alaska dividend is about to pay out).
Don't have too many miles on them yet, tires and alignment scheduled for Wednesday; but so far can say that nose dive under breaking is gone and corning is smooth. Potholes are little more abrasive, but only notice the initial hit and not a lot of bouncing/rebound, so it seems to control the energy quickly. There are only 2 roads here considered "highways" and I have no reason to be on them yet, so no report on highway manners yet (especially until the alignment is done). Stock suspension only had ~14k miles on it so i think it's a pretty fair comparison rather than comparing new lift to old stock.
Dragontj
New member
I know with my jeep one of the biggest things to correct those type of issues was to loosen everything and tighten it with weight on it so they are tightened in the right spot. If you tighten it with the suspension dropped that is can bind the polyurethane and could possibly cause some of this?
4boer2
New member
Is this (the bolded part) true? If so, is anyone finding themselves needing to lube the lower mount due to squeaks or otherwise? It's my understanding that bushings are superior from a longevity standpoint, like the Bilsteins or even the boss rear shocks.
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