Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit: Your thoughts?

W8kbrder

New member
Hey Guys,

So I'm about to purchase this Toytec Ultimate lift complete kit (3" lift I believe).

Vehicle is a 2011 4Runner SR5 with part time 4 wheel drive w/ A-TRAC.

Any suggestions on other items that I should purchase and have replaced while its apart?

I noticed a thread with some guys talking about replacing the "UCAs" ...which I'm guessing are control arms? I'm not too keen on new vehicle suspensions...all of my experience goes with 1971 and older vehicles! So at this point any info will help.

I believe I will be getting this kit:

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=58830&category_id=72&option=com_virtuemart&itemid=72

FJ Cruiser/4Runner Ultimate 3" lift package - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits

Any other suggestions on what needs to be done? I'll be putting some 285 x 70 x R16 tires on it.
 
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Hey Guys,

So I'm about to purchase this Toytec Ultimate lift complete kit (3" lift I believe).

Vehicle is a 2011 4Runner SR5 with part time 4 wheel drive w/ A-TRAC.

Any suggestions on other items that I should purchase and have replaced while its apart?

I noticed a thread with some guys talking about replacing the "UCAs" ...which I'm guessing are control arms? I'm not too keen on new vehicle suspensions...all of my experience goes with 1971 and older vehicles! So at this point any info will help.

I believe I will be getting this kit:

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=58830&category_id=72&option=com_virtuemart&itemid=72

FJ Cruiser/4Runner Ultimate 3" lift package - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits

Any other suggestions on what needs to be done? I'll be putting some 285 x 70 x R16 tires on it.

There should be an option to add the light racing upper control arms in the menu. They'll let you get back into alignment after the lift. Also it comes with a diff drop for your front differential. DO NOT install it. It only drops one half of the diff which causes the oil to not sit level and can cause issues. Plus it barley helps the CV angles and I doubt you or anyone else will have front vibes.
 
There should be an option to add the light racing upper control arms in the menu. They'll let you get back into alignment after the lift. Also it comes with a diff drop for your front differential. DO NOT install it. It only drops one half of the diff which causes the oil to not sit level and can cause issues. Plus it barley helps the CV angles and I doubt you or anyone else will have front vibes.


Thank you so much for this advice. I will not install the diff drop. I'll have it set at its lowest setting (3" I believe?).
 
Thank you so much for this advice. I will not install the diff drop. I'll have it set at its lowest setting (3" I believe?).

No problem! The lowest setting would be no lift at all. The absolute tallest you should go would be 3" if you're 4WD. 2.5-3" is ideal, but check your CV's after install to make sure none of the fins are touching. If they are you can either lower them a bit or do the CV stretch mod.
 
There should be an option to add the light racing upper control arms in the menu. They'll let you get back into alignment after the lift. Also it comes with a diff drop for your front differential. DO NOT install it. It only drops one half of the diff which causes the oil to not sit level and can cause issues. Plus it barley helps the CV angles and I doubt you or anyone else will have front vibes.

Does this apply to Trail Edition w/ KDSS as well? I've got an appointment for thursday to do the install and mentioned to the guy that I probably wouldn't do the diff drop based on research here on the board.
 
Upper Control Arms Needed for Toytec Ultimate?

I too have been looking very seriously at the Toytec Ultimate. My initial drawback was having to buy aftermarket UCA's in addition to the lift.

There has been a lot of back and forth on the forum in terms of the need for UCA's to get back to factory alignment specs after lifts.

I read a bunch of threads and it seemed that anything 3" lift and over would defintely need the UCA's to get the alignment specs.

However, I PM'd a guy after seeing his rig in the lifted thread and he said he was able to get back to factory specs w/o UCA's.

So I am kind of confused...hopefully someone with the Toytec will chime in and clear things up.

Sorry for the thread hijack, but this should help us all!!

Stu
 
You would have no problem getting back into factory specs without the aftermarket UCA's. However, if you plan on going to larger tires and/or wider wheels, the UCAs will allow for more adjustment (specifically camber) to prevent any tire rub issues. With lift and stock rims/tires, I had no rubbing. With 285's and 9" wheels I needed the LR UCAs to provide enough positive camber to prevent rubbing.

Also, I disagree with the statement about not wanting to install the diff drop. Would want to hear more reasoning about this. I have been wheeling for awhile, and have seen multiple problems with binding due to diff angle. It does decrease the angle noticeably and I have no fear of any oil level problems. I realize that on this mild lift, it isn't mandatory, but I installed it and am glad I did.
 
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You would have no problem getting back into factory specs without the aftermarket UCA's. However, if you plan on going to larger tires and/or wider wheels, they UCAs will allow for more adjustment (specifically camber) to prevent any tire rub issues. With lift and stock rims/tires, I had no rubbing. With 285's and 9" wheels I needed the LR UCAs to provide enough positive camber to prevent rubbing.

Also, I disagree with the statement about not wanting to install the diff drop. Would want to hear more reasoning about this. I have been wheeling for awhile, and have seen multiple problems with binding due to diff angle. It does decrease the angle noticeably and I have no fear of any oil level problems. I realize that on this mild lift, it isn't mandatory, but I installed it and am glad I did.

I have Toytec Ultimate at about 2 1/2" lift with 285s and 8 inch wheels. Aligned to spec without LR UCAs. Had rubbing but it was easily cured by cutting out small sections of the wheel well liner.

Agree with you on the diff drop. Have friends that have had issues when doing 2 1/2 to 3 inch lifts without diff drop. Have not heard of anyone having issues with the drop (until today). Have heard people say it's not necessary but never, ever until today have I heard that it does harm.
 
So it sounds like the UCAs may not be necessary to get factory alignment specs with the Toytec up to 2.5".

Anybody running the Toytec at 3" w/o UCAs and factory alignment?

There was some heated debate on this subject a while back because of an ARB built 4runner over on expeditionportal.com.

The link is: ARB 4Runner Build - Expedition Portal

They built it with OME components and it was at 3" but they would never confirm that it could be aligned back to factory specs w/o UCA's. Apparently ARB either owns or partly owns OME so it was kinda weird...

Like a lot of folks said...I have never heard of adverse impacts from the dif drop either.

Stu
 
Hey w8kbrder, since you're still asking the same questions and as you can see still getting numerous variations of a few answers, I really recommend you call the guys at ToyTec and as I said in our PM's and emails, find a local shop who specializes (that is, reallllly specializes) in 4x4 lifts...Toyota in particular....and decide who you are going to trust then go for it.

The input about the diff drop being a mistake was something I had not heard until now. Man, I sure hope that's not the case!

I installed the TT Ultimate without new UCA's and installed the kit exactly as directed by two specialty shops AND a big Toyota dealer who sells and installs the TT kits at the dealership.

Everything is great....though now I do want to ask some local experts again about the whole diff drop thing. That would really be $hit design if it's truly something that can wreck your diff due to oil "angle" in the box.

My decision to go without the UCA's was based on the majority of opinions for MY use being not to add yet another component that needs to be adjusted and adds yet another non-native part to the setup stressing the rest of the stock bits.

Sure wish there was ONE definitive answer, eh?

Maybe if you ask a few more times in a few more different ways, you'll be able to triangulate a high-probability correctness quotient! Break out the slide rule brotha! (if you know what a slide rule is - too young maybe?) Hahaha...

Have fun man...look forward to seeing it all and hearing what you decide on.
 
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Thanks SgnDen....this is why I originally started this thread but figured I would PM a few people who already had the setup so I could pick their brain. I wanted all the facts before I installed the Toytec kit. It seems like everytime I've done something like this in the past, there are always hidden Pros/Cons that surface after I do it...so I am trying to gather a collective summary of what is best.

I have the SR5 and only plan on doing about 2.5" of lift, so thats why I asked you. But it seems now there is an ongoing debate on whether or not the drop diff is beneficial or harmful and whether aftermarket UCAs cause more complications or more room for perfecting alignment.

I'll be calling a shop in town to get their take..but I'm sure they haven't sat around debating slight differences. I'll see what I can find out and post the info here.
 
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There should be an option to add the light racing upper control arms in the menu. They'll let you get back into alignment after the lift. Also it comes with a diff drop for your front differential. DO NOT install it. It only drops one half of the diff which causes the oil to not sit level and can cause issues. Plus it barley helps the CV angles and I doubt you or anyone else will have front vibes.

Hey mgrande,

Just curious what made you come to the conclusion that the drop diff only drops half of it causing the oil to not settle correctly. What you stated makes complete sense...but I was curious if this was based more on theory or fact regarding it causing future damage? Have you run into anyone else with this issue? Now I'm seeing people on both sides saying its good and its bad.
 
I run my front Icons at 2 1/2" lift and my cv angles are NOT extreme enough to require a Diff drop even at full flex. A diff drop also loses precious ground clearance that you lifted the front for to begin with anyway unless your just doing it for looks.

Read this thread about the diff drop as people who have alot more experience then I can explain it better then me...lol.....Differential drop kit needed or not? - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Let's see people's alignment spec sheets who say they have it within specs with a 3 inch front lift and stock UCA's. And even if they did get it close to the lower 2.2 caster spec ,from my experience and many others on the forum ,the overall drive-ability and stability of the ride at highway speeds of a 5th with the caster set to 4 or above is night and day IMO and that can not be achieved with stock UCA's.
 
I'll see if I can't find the info for you. All these guys that are lifted on stock UCA's may be "within spec" but that isn't exactly great. You should strive to get your alignment perfect.
 
It did seem a little strange to me how that diff drop worked/ went in. (the tilt). Let's hear more from the experts. And pardon my ignorance here, but how was it the diff drop's fault that the guy hit a rock during a race?

Harper...you're saying its not necessary, but do you agree that its potentially harmful?
 

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