Trans Cooler Mount: Need Kansas 5th Gens for New Product Fitment

[teotwaki]

Many thanks to [MENTION=6100]teotwaki[/MENTION] and his very gracious and detailed assistance I have a bracket design that should work for the 5th gen 4runners. I've opened up pre-ordering on my website linked below, I should be able to start shipping in about 2 weeks.

My bracket goes on the passenger side. You may have to bend the lower left power steering line bracket slightly for more clearance and also push the AC line out of the way slightly. Other than that I think it fits like a glove, all bolt in.

2010-2024 4runner Transmission Cooler Bracket Kit
– Iconic Fabrication

Thanks Devon! It is great to see a real mounting solution come to life. None of those Tie-Wraps through the radiator for me.

The bracket that is bent about 1/2" is soft steel and nothing is compromised. This mod allows a really nice exit of the hose from the trans cooler and out through a factory opening for a clean OEM look. The upper trans oil line also follows a similar path. I am finalizing the suggested hose lengths this morning.

Bonus photo of a trans oil cooler that I took out of the radiator of my 4th Gen. The 5th Gen is probably the same design.

 

[teotwaki]

Here is a preview of what the final design looks like in place, one shot with the AC bracket moved for a clearer view.

 

[teotwaki]

Before the install I read dozens of internet posts and watched almost as many videos on transmission oil cooler installs. To make sure I didn't accidentally swap rubber hoses I drew up my own diagram and took a ton of pictures under the 4Runner. I really had my heart set on making connections near the top of the steel lines where they arch over but it's tough to get in there. I opted for the easier route (and one longer hose) by tapping in near the large radiator outlet at the bottom and on the driver's side.

I spent a few hours choosing how I would route the hoses in order to take advantage of the OEM openings on the passenger side of the main radiator. If this Hayden cooler works well when I'm towing my trailer I will likely have the cooler's return line make a home run towards the steel line that originates from the transmission. Then I would "abandon" (cap off) the steel line that runs outside of the radiator fan shroud, travels upwards and then has a rubber hose run back to the transmission return line. This could shorten up the return hose from the Hayden cooler.

The Hayden 698 is fed from the bottom inlet so as to push any air bubbles up and out. This cooler comes after the Toyota integrated oil cooler because I would like the return line temperature to be lower than the 180 degrees F from the main radiator.

 

[teotwaki]

Install Notes, not necessarily in order

I chose the Hayden 698 cooler billed as the "internal pressure bypass" model for cold climates. Patented Internal By-Pass Coolers

Before install of the bracket it is nice to take a file and knock off the sharp edges that are a byproduct of the laser cutting.

When installing the bracket it is easiest to first bolt the cooler to the bracket. I faced the bolts forward towards the front of the truck so as to have less things hanging out on the back when putting the bracket and cooler into position. I supplied my own washers for the bolts but given how light the cooler is the washers aren't necessary. There are no lock washers supplied but nylock nuts are supplied. Future production kits may vary in the interests of improvements and ease of assembly.

Note the hole that the upper right corner bolt is in. This is to avoid the bolt directly contacting the hood latch vertical support bracket.

Before installing the bracket I applied a 1" square foam pad to the spot right above the upper right bolt. This is to prevent any chance of vibration against the hood latch support bracket as they are about 1/8" to 1/4" apart. This was something that I wanted to do and may not be part of the production kit.

When installing the bracket and cooler, you can loosen up all four bolts of the hood latch and its support bracket. Or you can take a shortcut and just unbolt the lowest bolt of the vertical hood latch support bracket. Gently pry the support bracket forward to allow the trans cooler bracket to slip in. Use a center punch or similar to align the holes and thread in the bolt. Next thread in the trans cooler bracket's lower left bolt and then the upper bolt and spacer.

Once the trans cooler is installed it is easiest to feed the rubber hoses in from the engine bay towards the cooler inlets. The lower hose for hot fluid could use a sleeve to protect it from chafing on the edge of the port cut in the metal bulkhead. I used some clear tube I had around.

A picture is attached of the lower hose routing from the cooler, showing how it passes under the aluminum AC line. The upper hose must pass through a foam sheet and I used a razor to cut a "X" pattern to try to keep the air seal in place.

If I think of other things I'll either update this post or add more info in another.

 

[teotwaki]

One of the main reasons I worked with Devon was to get away from any sort of zip tie mounting scheme. I wanted a cooler to be fully supported in a mounting bracket that isolates the cooler itself from mounting stresses, flexing of the radiator support structure and the vibration and shock of off roading. I also wanted a clean install and straightforward hose routing.

One thing I'll throw in is that I am running full (RCI) skid plates so air flow across the transmission housing is restricted by some amount as compared to the more minimal OEM skid plate.

For the following I will defer to anyone who has deep knowledge of the 4Runner transmission: A number of online sources have made statements that most modern transmissions have an internal temperature bypass valve that prevents fluid from flowing to an external cooler until the temp has reached some minimum such as 165 deg F. (Unknown rating, I need a citation) If true for our Toyota transmissions we have no worries about over cooling the ATF by adding an inline cooler to the lines coming out of the OEM cooler located within the engine coolant radiator.

Next, the Hayden 698 seems to perform a bypass function by relying on the viscosity of the ATF versus temperature. Hayden understandably does not share how they designed their cooler but states this "When Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is cold it is viscous. The unique Tru-Cool design allows the colder, thicker ATF to flow more efficiently through two open bypass channels positioned at the top of the cooler. As operating temperatures increase, the ATF becomes hotter and thinner, It's then directed through the core where it is cooled."

Sample curve I found of how ATF viscosity varies with temperature

Colder, denser fluid probably doesn't easily flow through the smaller internal orifices of the 698 (my guess) that lead to the finned areas of the cooler. Given that the ATF has already been pre-warmed to 180-ish degrees by the engine coolant radiator the Hayden 698 is essentially "active" all of the time and incoming ambient air temperatures will affect how much additional cooling the Hayden can impart.

I recently took a five day trip to the Mojave Desert with my 4Runner and offroad trailer. I use a ScanGuage2 for monitoring the trans, engine coolant and torque converter temperatures. In the numbers presented below I show the converter temps as it can run hotter than the transmission. I imagine that whether or not the converter is locked up makes a difference. Off road I use the sport mode and on the freeway I use drive except for steep hills.

Ambient air temp - converter temp - coolant temp - notes

62 - 98 - 184 just idling in the driveway
73 - 150 - 188 starting the drive on city streets
64 - 199 - 191 freeway driving, level in general, at normal traffic speeds
61 - 193 - 195 towing uphill in Cajon Pass, at normal traffic speeds
70 - 96 - 195 idling at camp site before return trip
68 - 118 - 186 in 4WL 3rd gear Sport Mode (SM) in a sandy wash @ 15 MPH
68 - 130 - 186 in 4WH Drive on dirt roads @ 25 MPH
70 - 149 - 190 up a hill, at normal traffic speeds
70 - 147 - 190 freeway driving, level in general, at normal traffic speeds

In the past I had found the converter temps would rise well above 210 degrees when towing up a hill and I would usually switch to SM and reduce my speed. Now I no longer have to do so.

I would recommend this product to anyone who tows or operates in hotter climates and who is capable and confident of performing minor mechanical work to deal with fitment hose routing, etc.

 

[Whippersnapper02]

I'm trying to decide if I need the bypass or not. I'm in SoCal so the temps don't get as low as the northern areas but we do have some 39 degree mornings and I also want to travel to other areas. I do want to keep the OEM cooler in the radiator so maybe that will be enough to bring the fluid up to temp for my use.

 

[meltdown]

I imagine that whether or not the converter is locked up makes a difference.

When towing or on long road trips, I’ll watch temps in both the pan and converter. Without a doubt, the temps in the converter rise quickly when it’s unlocked. I’ve often seen as much as 20 degree high temps in the converter versus the pan when unlocked.

When towing, I just put it in 4th gear. I’ve never had an issue with high temps and the fuel mileage difference isn’t enough to worry over. It should be noted however that I’m in North Louisiana. We’ve got hills but, not mountains.

 

[teotwaki]

I'm trying to decide if I need the bypass or not.

Do you mean a "bypass" model of the Hayden cooler?

I went with the bypass model in the hope that it would minimize the amount of added cooling before the engine coolant was up to 185.

 

[Whippersnapper02]

Do you mean a "bypass" model of the Hayden cooler?

I went with the bypass model in the hope that it would minimize the amount of added cooling before the engine coolant was up to 185.

Correct. I know the trans in my Tacoma had an internal thermostat that would bypass the AUX cooler. I'm thinking I want the bypass in case I end up some colder.

 

[teotwaki]

Correct. I know the trans in my Tacoma had an internal thermostat that would bypass the AUX cooler. I'm thinking I want the bypass in case I end up some colder.

I've never delved into the workings of the trans but it would be logical that the internal thermostat of the trans would shut off the line to the external cooler if temps of the fluid get too low. So cold weather should not be a worry especially since the engine coolant radiator is bringing the trans fluid up in temperature to 185 or so.

Therefore my main worry is when the fluid gets too hot; low speed, uphill crawling (pulling a trailer in my case) in very hot weather. There would be little airflow over the trans housing so that bit of cooling is lost.

If I lived in a very hot climate full time I would go with a non bypass.

In the brief set of numbers in my previous post the trans fluid was always warmer than ambient temp. To me that suggests that the trans cooler is not too big so as to "overcool" the fluid

 

[teotwaki]

Who else has ordered the kit? I'd like to hear about your fitment and the model year it's going in to. Am just curious......

 

[IconicFJ_]

Who else has ordered the kit? I'd like to hear about your fitment and the model year it's going in to. Am just curious......

Of the 4 orders I've received for the 5th gen brackets I've only managed to ship out 1 bracket so far. Manufacturing issues prevented all but one part of the latest (small) batch from being viable. I've emailed the other 3 customers and they are aware the delay and are willing to wait another 2 weeks for another batch to be finished.

Don't worry, once the design has all the kinks worked out we will be ready to rock and roll with parts. Its just costing me alot of $ to get to this point. Look at this as a chance for you guys to do a little "beta" testing.

-Devon

 

[teotwaki]

Of the 4 orders I've received for the 5th gen brackets I've only managed to ship out 1 bracket so far. Manufacturing issues prevented all but one part of the latest (small) batch from being viable. I've emailed the other 3 customers and they are aware the delay and are willing to wait another 2 weeks for another batch to be finished.

Don't worry, once the design has all the kinks worked out we will be ready to rock and roll with parts. Its just costing me alot of $ to get to this point. Look at this as a chance for you guys to do a little "beta" testing.

-Devon

That's good news! I'll look forward to seeing how the installs go.

 

[teotwaki]

I ordered the bracket for now and will post the fitment on 4runners.com. This forum is too hard to navigate on a phone

Please share a link to your thread once it's started. Thanks!

 

[NorthPark]

Please share a link to your thread once it's started. Thanks!

I was having a beast of a time with this site, but managed to get to a pc. I'll make a thread here on t4r.
[MENTION=91192]Whippersnapper02[/MENTION] had replied to a post of mine with a link to this bracket. I had no idea otherwise and was going to rig something with aluminum flat bar.

So I have a procharger with a front mount intercooler, and a cbi front bumper/winch/onx6 30" going in.

For now I've just ordered the bracket to kind of figure out the fitment of things but will probably buy a Derale 13613 for this bracket to keep everything -6an. I'm assuming I'll install rivnuts for it. I have the hf tool with stainless and also zinc plated rivnuts (not sure if it makes a difference, will stainless react here?).

Here's what I have on hand from some previous plans but never installed. I need a dedicated cooler setup that can handle az offroading on a supercharged heavy 4runner. I am not dead set on using any or all of the items.

Improved Racing Bypass
B&M 10x7.5 w/ spal fan cooler
Derale 24" frame rail cooler
Koyo Aluminum Radiator with no transmission cooler loop.


I'm at least using the bypass thermostat and probably at 140f. I think a youtuber tested it and they believe there is a thermostat in the transmission around 140 but not absolutely confirmed.

There is loose theory that the coolant loop won't heat up the transmission fluid for several minutes as there is a thermostat for the coolant as well. But the coolant loop will most likely actively cool it. I'm an IT guy so don't take anything as professional knowledge here.

I previously had a CSF aluminum radiator, but had to remove it due to the procharger kit (Found out a few hours into the install!)

 

[Leucoandro]

Hello all.

I really like the idea of this transmission cooler. I have some questions for others before I order though.

I like the way the cooler mounts on the passenger side (eliminated the need to relocate the horn), but it looks like it would change the way it should be plumbed to the transmission cooler exit from the radiator. On the FJ Cruise the cooler is mounted on the drivers side, and attaches where the elbow joint hose was at the exit of the factory transmission cooler integrated into the radiator.

With the add on cooler mounted on the passenger side, that would mean the hoses need to be a lot longer, which might not be idea.

I was looking under the hood of my 4Runner and the hose from the radiator mounted transmission cooler runs along the base of the radiator, then turns and runs up the passenger side of the radiator before turning again and running back to the radiator.

To me (not a mechanic) it looks like the best way to route the hose to the new external transmission cooler would be from the cold metal tube near the top passenger side of the radiator to the external cooler, then from the external cooler using a union to tie back to the hose that runs to the transmission.

Is anyone else doing the above when routing theirs?

I also have a side question. From what I have read, add on coolers (transmission cooler, power steering cooler, etc) all benefit more by being closer to the radiator (because of how the fan draws air through the front grill and into the engine compartment). Is there enough room, and would I benefit from mounting the cooler to the inside (opposite side) of the mount?

Thanks,


Charlie

 

[NorthPark]

Is there enough room, and would I benefit from mounting the cooler to the inside (opposite side) of the mount?

It's about 3.5" between the condenser and the front edge of the upper rail.

I ordered a bracket and can give you a better idea once it arrives

 

[teotwaki]

Hello all.

I really like the idea of this transmission cooler. I have some questions for others before I order though.

I like the way the cooler mounts on the passenger side (eliminated the need to relocate the horn), but it looks like it would change the way it should be plumbed to the transmission cooler exit from the radiator. On the FJ Cruise the cooler is mounted on the drivers side, and attaches where the elbow joint hose was at the exit of the factory transmission cooler integrated into the radiator.

With the add on cooler mounted on the passenger side, that would mean the hoses need to be a lot longer, which might not be idea.

I was looking under the hood of my 4Runner and the hose from the radiator mounted transmission cooler runs along the base of the radiator, then turns and runs up the passenger side of the radiator before turning again and running back to the radiator.

To me (not a mechanic) it looks like the best way to route the hose to the new external transmission cooler would be from the cold metal tube near the top passenger side of the radiator to the external cooler, then from the external cooler using a union to tie back to the hose that runs to the transmission.

Is anyone else doing the above when routing theirs?

I also have a side question. From what I have read, add on coolers (transmission cooler, power steering cooler, etc) all benefit more by being closer to the radiator (because of how the fan draws air through the front grill and into the engine compartment). Is there enough room, and would I benefit from mounting the cooler to the inside (opposite side) of the mount?

Thanks,


Charlie

I'm guessing you didn't see all of the pictures I posted? Scroll back to message #41 and up and they may answer a number of questions.

The FJ's engine radiator mounting is different as are the openings available for hose routing. The best routing on the 4R is on the passenger side as the steel lines from the trans run along the passenger side.

In my install I ran both of the cooler's hoses together but in hindsight I could have run them differently and shortened them a bit. As I recall, one could have home-runned to the steel trans line and the other could have attached to the short steel line coming up from the radiator that you mentioned. The second short steel line can be capped off and abandoned in place. When I get the energy I'll go back and do all that.

The problem with the ideal routing is that it was near impossible to get my hand and a tool in there to remove the factory line clamp. I think a lot of other things will have to be unbolted to create access.

I don't think there is enough room to mount the cooler on the other side of the bracket but I suppose you can try and let us know. I think it might require an entirely new bracket to gain probably very little in terms of air flow coupling if there is such a term. Probably need a engine-mechanical engineer to weigh in.

As an aside, buy some replacement plastic fasteners for the top radiator cover. Some of the Amazon offerings are so brittle they break easily. I bought these and although they look different from OEM they seem to hold well and don't easily break.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6HGJ2TY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[NorthPark]

Mine arrived today, pretty much exactly what I expected. A nice clean cut bracket that allows you to easily mount a transmission cooler. Worth the $ for me vs some rigged homedepot/autozone setup on my off-road adventure vehicle.

As best as I can tell there is about 1 3/4" between the bracket and the condenser. I bet you could mount a cooler behind it but there is a pinch weld on the lower frame/brace that sticks up about 1/2" that might cause some clearance issues.

I have an intercooler and a transmission cooler already in the way that is going to take a little bit of work to sort out before I can get a pic of this bracket mounted.

 

[teotwaki]

Mine arrived today, pretty much exactly what I expected. A nice clean cut bracket that allows you to easily mount a transmission cooler. Worth the $ for me vs some rigged homedepot/autozone setup on my off-road adventure vehicle.

As best as I can tell there is about 1 3/4" between the bracket and the condenser. I bet you could mount a cooler behind it but there is a pinch weld on the lower frame/brace that sticks up about 1/2" that might cause some clearance issues.

I have an intercooler and a transmission cooler already in the way that is going to take a little bit of work to sort out before I can get a pic of this bracket mounted.

Looking forward to the pictures!

If the cooler is moved behind the bracket the lower inlet tube and attached hose will have to contend with the radiator mount being squarely in the way. I think the bracket would be mounted first then try to get the cooler in there to rotate into different positions for fitment check. The bracket that you now have is the result of three different designs iterations that I received and tested.