Transgo 340-hd2 install and reveiw

[gamefreakgc]

Trying to find out what Valve Body Type I have before dropping pan.
Called dealer ran VIN, shows I have VB 35410-35620
Boost Valve: Plunger 35416-24020, Sleeve 35417-22020
Dealer could not tell me what type VB I have, anyone know where I can
cross reference the part number to type.
Mr Smith Transgo Tech support was at a loss also.

Going to call around today keep digging.

01 Limited 5VZ 4x4

Could just order all 3 kinds (might be able to rule out one as well) and return the ones you don't use. I've had to do that before with other parts. Just makes sure your dealer allows it.

I used to have an '02 transmission in the backyard... bummer since that's most likely the type of valve body you have since 01-02 switched to the drive by wire throttle and transmission.

 

[96RedRunner]

Let me check my instructions tonight maybe we can narrow it down

and [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] The probably stuff is risky in itself. LOL

It's the weekend, I'm in no hurry, just prepping for this job with a bit of research. Thanks for digging.

Are you talking about Transgo instructions?
I purchased the kit have been looking at instructions, they are all based on knowing what VB you have. Trying to find that out before I drop the pan. May have to just drop pan and go from there.

The VB part number 35410-35620 is what vin build sheet says I have.
Is this VB part number Type 1, 2, 3, or 4 I'm finding out that is a hard one to get a answer for.

The Plunger and Sleeve part numbers are correct for the VB I have according to VIN build sheet. we good on what I need to order for Boost valve.

 

[4Runner-Dan]

Quick Question [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION]. How did you remove the accumulator springs? On the instructions, it says to use a pair of side cutters. Did you cut them out or completely pull them out? The instructions are a bit vague. Trying to get my truck's new transmission in. Thanks in advance!

 

[El_capitan]

Quick Question [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION]. How did you remove the accumulator springs? On the instructions, it says to use a pair of side cutters. Did you cut them out or completely pull them out? The instructions are a bit vague. Trying to get my truck's new transmission in. Thanks in advance!

When I did mine I used a pair of side cutters. You don't really cut the spring more like work it around until it breaks off. It has a sort of retainer that holds the springs in the accumulators. Hope that helps

 

[gamefreakgc]

I don't remember cutting anything, they should pull out. I think by side cutters it means a pair of pliers.

 

[Black798]

I did the same. I was confused and called them. They basically told me to just pull the spring off the accumlator piston entirely. Took some wiggling but it came off pretty easy

 

[4Runner-Dan]

I don't remember cutting anything, they should pull out. I think by side cutters it means a pair of pliers.

I did the same. I was confused and called them. They basically told me to just pull the spring off the accumlator piston entirely. Took some wiggling but it came off pretty easy

When I did mine I used a pair of side cutters. You don't really cut the spring more like work it around until it breaks off. It has a sort of retainer that holds the springs in the accumulators. Hope that helps

Thanks, guys. Yeah....mine didn't come out immediately even with, what I thought, was a significant pressure. I'll give it another go this weekend.

 

[BLKTACO]

I’m in the middle of this right now. I’m having an issue with the lock up bushing. It’s SUPER tight and to get it all the way in I’d have to press in in pretty hard. This can’t be right. Anybody else experience this?

 

[jerrydub10]

Sorry to revive an old thread but I have an issue.
I think I may have botched the shift kit. It drives and will go through the gears, but after it shifts from first to second it doesnt seem to want to go back into first. On top of that when I start going it feels like the transmission is fighting itself to get the power down. Like it doesnt feel sluggish it feels like something is holding it back.
Any suggestions? I'm not well versed on auto transmissions.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

 

[Black798]

I'd start by calling transgo. Tell em what is going on and see what they say. Chances are you missplaced a check ball in the valve body. So you're probably going to need to pull it all apart again to figure out what's wrong.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Sorry to revive an old thread but I have an issue.
I think I may have botched the shift kit. It drives and will go through the gears, but after it shifts from first to second it doesnt seem to want to go back into first. On top of that when I start going it feels like the transmission is fighting itself to get the power down. Like it doesnt feel sluggish it feels like something is holding it back.
Any suggestions? I'm not well versed on auto transmissions.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

Does your transmission have a kick-down cable that connects to the throttle body (96-98's I think)? Sounds like it might be disconnected at one of the ends if you do, or have way too much slack in it.

I also botched my install the first time but with Black's help got it up and running again.

 

[clearock]

separator plate

Anyone drill out larger then the OP and if so what did u think... there r 4 bigger drill bits in the kit of which 2 r in between The "Truck" size .055" and "Hot rod" .093", (.062" and .076").

 

[Lamer]

nice write up, but I have a question.

When I pulled the valve body out two other springs (front-driver corner) fell out and a small black washer (pictured) I am not sure where the washer goes...any one have advice on this?

 

[BLKTACO]

I just did the HD2 on mine a few days ago. Works great, as you said shifts are crisp, fast, like they should. No jerking, no banging....I mean it how this trans should have been setup stock!

But with mine being an 02/DBW, there seems to be some kind of code in the ECU that partially shuts the throttle plate during a WOT shift. And now I am getting that delay after the 1-2 shift. It shifts quick, and then there is a quick momentary drop in power (can hear the motor pull down like you tapped the brakes or slightly let off) and then it comes back. All happens very quick, right after the shift. I've seen this kind of thing before with Duramaxes defueling, and turbo AT subaru's cutting the throttle plate and timing during the shift. I can tune it on all of those to make it smooth/and or timed correctly when mods are done. Can't do that here.. can anyone else confirm what I'm seeing? It's not bad, but it's annoying...

Bumping this thread from way back. The delay after 1-2 is annoying. [MENTION=145787]Gravity_Knight[/MENTION] hasn’t been on for a while but I’m Curious if anyone has ever figured this out. I’m assuming it’s torque management. But I hate it.

I’d like to hear from both ETCS-I owners and regular throttle body owners. Wondering is the mechanical throttle body trucks see this.

 

[Black798]

Bumping this thread from way back. The delay after 1-2 is annoying. [MENTION=145787]Gravity_Knight[/MENTION] hasn’t been on for a while but I’m Curious if anyone has ever figured this out. I’m assuming it’s torque management. But I hate it.

I’d like to hear from both ETCS-I owners and regular throttle body owners. Wondering is the mechanical throttle body trucks see this.

I can confirm that my 98 with the mechanical throttle body does not cut power during the shift. I have a manual shift controller as well and there is no difference in shift quality between the ECU and using the manual controller. Now with the turbo its a very consistent pull through the shift and I almost wish I had of gone with the race shift setting rather than the truck setting because at full boost it slips a little more than I would like on the 1 2 shift. Pretty easy to drive around that though and just let up a little at the shift point.

My 02 on the other hand that is totally stock with the supercharger I can definitely feel the torque management. Its like the motor bogs during the shift essentially. Doesn't seem to make a difference when I turn traction control off either so I dont believe there is a way around it.

 

[Gravity_Knight]

Bumping this thread from way back. The delay after 1-2 is annoying. [MENTION=145787]Gravity_Knight[/MENTION] hasn’t been on for a while but I’m Curious if anyone has ever figured this out. I’m assuming it’s torque management. But I hate it.

I’d like to hear from both ETCS-I owners and regular throttle body owners. Wondering is the mechanical throttle body trucks see this.

Appreciate confirming my suspicion. It drives me nuts.. but it's going strong otherwise after what... 6 years now!?! sheesh... :bounce:

 

[Gravity_Knight]

I can confirm that my 98 with the mechanical throttle body does not cut power during the shift. I have a manual shift controller as well and there is no difference in shift quality between the ECU and using the manual controller. Now with the turbo its a very consistent pull through the shift and I almost wish I had of gone with the race shift setting rather than the truck setting because at full boost it slips a little more than I would like on the 1 2 shift. Pretty easy to drive around that though and just let up a little at the shift point.

My 02 on the other hand that is totally stock with the supercharger I can definitely feel the torque management. Its like the motor bogs during the shift essentially. Doesn't seem to make a difference when I turn traction control off either so I dont believe there is a way around it.

I looked at your build page, but I might have missed it.. what trans controller are you using? Just curious. Between the de-throttle on the shifts, and the ECU pulling timing under 4k RPMS regardless (not seeing knock), and of course I can only pull timing further with the POS splitsec piggyback. I have kicked around the idea of doing a standalone ecu and figure I'll need a manual controller for the trans at that point. Thanks!

 

[Black798]

I looked at your build page, but I might have missed it.. what trans controller are you using? Just curious. Between the de-throttle on the shifts, and the ECU pulling timing under 4k RPMS regardless (not seeing knock), and of course I can only pull timing further with the POS splitsec piggyback. I have kicked around the idea of doing a standalone ecu and figure I'll need a manual controller for the trans at that point. Thanks!

Stock ecu is still in control of the shifting. I havent ironed out all of the kinks yet which I think are largely being caused by not having a working speed input to the gauges that feed the stock ecu. So for example right now the truck is stuck in first gear untill the trans shifts based off rpm not vehicle speed and load percentage.

But essentially the haltech controls the engine and feeds the stock ecu just enough info to control the trans. The haltech has the functionality to control the trans if I wanted but toyota spent hundreds of thousands tuning this engine and trans combo which any standalone will have a hard time matching. If I cant get the stock ecu to control the trans properly I will be hooking the haltech up to it though and totally ditching the stock ecu.

I also have a rad designs rail shifter that lets me have full manual control of the trans at the flip of a switch but it has its own issues. Like if you downshift in drive the shift doesnt feel like it fully locks up, not sure what the stock ecu is doing differently there. The issue isnt presented if you put the shifter into the corresponding gear though, ie 2nd or L. Hope this helps