Transmission Cooler Install

[OrdnanceMarine]

So did you experience any gear wash? I'm terrified of flushing my fluid with 225k miles on the truck. Not sure if it's been replaced already but I imagine I would get pretty bad gear wash if I flushed the fluid. Not sure about just draining and adding new fluid though (lots of old fluid and grit remaining).

When you say "gear wash" are you talking about the release of deposits (some which may be beneficial) due to a large difference between the existing fluid and the new fluid?

If so, I can't imagine so being that my transmission only had ~50k miles on it and the fluid itself was pretty much fine, just had a fair amount of metal in it that showed up on the used oil analysis. I haven't sampled since (probably will when I put my truck on stands to upgrade my suspension) so I don't have any idea what's going on in there now. I do know that the what I think is the torque converter makes the same annoying whirring noise in neutral/park that it did when I bought it with 35k miles on it.

 

[Proctor750]

When you say "gear wash" are you talking about the release of deposits (some which may be beneficial) due to a large difference between the existing fluid and the new fluid?

If so, I can't imagine so being that my transmission only had ~50k miles on it and the fluid itself was pretty much fine, just had a fair amount of metal in it that showed up on the used oil analysis. I haven't sampled since (probably will when I put my truck on stands to upgrade my suspension) so I don't have any idea what's going on in there now. I do know that the what I think is the torque converter makes the same annoying whirring noise in neutral/park that it did when I bought it with 35k miles on it.

Yes that's exactly what I mean. It's one of those things where I think if you keep on it you can flush forever but as soon as you let it go for 100k.... probably going to slip like crazy. I bet I could drain it and fill it with new stuff (since that's blending old with new) but I'm too scared to try...

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Yes that's exactly what I mean. It's one of those things where I think if you keep on it you can flush forever but as soon as you let it go for 100k.... probably going to slip like crazy. I bet I could drain it and fill it with new stuff (since that's blending old with new) but I'm too scared to try...

I can't imagine much of this happening with an automatic transmission since the chemistry is completely different and the environmental factors are worlds apart in comparison to engine oil in the crankcase. If your transmission fluid is past due I would, at a minimum, begin by draining the pan and dropping it (might as well replace the filter, more like a screen, and gasket while you're there) and cleaning out all of the metallic sludge that's bound to have settled and/or be stuck to the four magnets. Then refill and see if any changes are noted. If you discover the fluid is destroyed then you can either do the drain, fill, drive, drain, fill, drive regiment until you're satisfied or you can do the flush. If the fluid is in relatively good shape then you might be happy with a drain and fill. I'd establish some sort of schedule from there.

 

[Proctor750]

I can't imagine much of this happening with an automatic transmission since the chemistry is completely different and the environmental factors are worlds apart in comparison to engine oil in the crankcase. If your transmission fluid is past due I would, at a minimum, begin by draining the pan and dropping it (might as well replace the filter, more like a screen, and gasket while you're there) and cleaning out all of the metallic sludge that's bound to have settled and/or be stuck to the four magnets. Then refill and see if any changes are noted. If you discover the fluid is destroyed then you can either do the drain, fill, drive, drain, fill, drive regiment until you're satisfied or you can do the flush. If the fluid is in relatively good shape then you might be happy with a drain and fill. I'd establish some sort of schedule from there.

Hmm, You may be right but I just can't shake all the different people I have heard say that once the fluid has changed color and smell then it's too late for a flush and you will definitely cause more harm than good. I'll check my fluid again and if it is relatively close in color to new fluid I will probably drain and replace screen. But if it's dark and maybe burnt smelling then I'll start saving for another used one and cross my fingers. 225k in an automatic is unkown territory for me, all my other high mileage cars have been manual trans (bmw 350k, Merc 450k)

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Hmm, You may be right but I just can't shake all the different people I have heard say that once the fluid has changed color and smell then it's too late for a flush and you will definitely cause more harm than good. I'll check my fluid again and if it is relatively close in color to new fluid I will probably drain and replace screen. But if it's dark and maybe burnt smelling then I'll start saving for another used one and cross my fingers. 225k in an automatic is unkown territory for me, all my other high mileage cars have been manual trans (bmw 350k, Merc 450k)

There are makers that tell you to NEVER flush the transmission (Honda, for instance) and in those cases I'd never flush, just drain and fills, but I'm not yet following the logic of thinking that you will get a longer life out of a transmission that never has the fluid changed over one that might not get changed as often as it should. Mind you that I am by no means an expert in AT doctrine but transmission fluid breaks down with time, more so with use and clutch packs wear and have to drop their debris into the fluid, etc. and the more abrasive and contaminated the fluid becomes, the more I'd expect wear to accelerate and shift properties to drift from factory norms. Also considering if you don't change the fluid the degradation of conditions will naturally continue as opposed to at least maintaining some level of contamination consistent with where it is today. You might use the analogy of changing out water in a freshwater aquarium. Changing all of it at once is bad for the tank inhabitants but failing to change it means that the properties of the water continue to deteriorate. The solution with freshwater aquariums is to change a portion of the water on a periodic basis so you keep contaminants at a safe level AND you don't shock the tank inhabitants.

These are not apples to apples comparisons, but ought to serve to illustrate a though.

 

[ebg18t]

Thanks to those in this thread. I installed the 70268 and has been working just fine. I kept the oem cooler inline.

 

[CqwDad]

Transmission Temperature Gauge

I am considering purchasing a trans temp gauge for my '04 4runner. It has the V-8 with tow package, so I know I have the external trans cooler located just in front of the radiator. I looked in owners manual and there is no temp gauge in the dash. I plan on towing a 5,000lb travel trailer and would like to monitor the trans temp. I looked at getting the ScanGaugeII, but when you check the trans temp code, it says it is for 2005 and newer models. Does that mean it will not function when connecting the ScanGauge to the OBDII port? I really like the multi-functions of this product, but it may be useless with my 2004. Any suggestions? Do I just go out and by an Auto Meter gauge? Am I being overcautious and do I need to be concerned with a gauge since I do have both internal/external transmission coolers?

Jim

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

I am considering purchasing a trans temp gauge for my '04 4runner. It has the V-8 with tow package, so I know I have the external trans cooler located just in front of the radiator. I looked in owners manual and there is no temp gauge in the dash. I plan on towing a 5,000lb travel trailer and would like to monitor the trans temp. I looked at getting the ScanGaugeII, but when you check the trans temp code, it says it is for 2005 and newer models. Does that mean it will not function when connecting the ScanGauge to the OBDII port? I really like the multi-functions of this product, but it may be useless with my 2004. Any suggestions? Do I just go out and by an Auto Meter gauge? Am I being overcautious and do I need to be concerned with a gauge since I do have both internal/external transmission coolers?

Jim

You're wise to want to know what the temperature actually is. My aftermarket transmission cooler is a good bit larger than the one that comes on the V8 and I've caught myself a few times not paying attention that in 4th or 5th gear the torque converter was unlocked but RPMs were really low (usually slow speed canyon climbs) and trans temp had bled up to the 220s when it would have been 180s if I had been managing it properly. Same thing when climbing moderately steep trails without a trailer since airflow is low due to low speed but the vehicle has plenty of power so it selects a low gear for fuel economy in accordance with the transmission's programmed logic and what you get are transmission temps that keep climbing. If you're aware of this you simply bump the gear selector to the gear you want that gives you enough engine speed to pull sufficient air over your transmission cooler and engine radiator and circulates the transmission fluid and engine coolant at a higher rate, which in my experience has been the solution every time.

Without a gauge you just don't know (unless you consider the trans temp light to be sufficient, which I don't).

I like the ScanGaugeII mostly because I already own them and have for years and they are useful as a very simplistic gauge cluster that is always there, always logging data, easy to read in both day and night, etc. but if you don't already own one and you do have an Android device you might want to get a Bluetooth ODBII reader from a place like Amazon and pair it up with the Torque app for Android. In this instance you'll be out no more than $25 for the reader and the app.

 

[SnowyPeaks543]

with the CSF radiator upgrade is the hayden trans cooler necessary?

04 limited v6 4x4

I just started towing a 19' (unsure of weight as of now) RV dual axle trailer. I want to add additional protection before I have any problems - not the other way around. I live in New Mexico, summers road temps are above 110* and air temp closer to 95*. Almost every drive is a curvy mountainous road, even to the grocery store.

My planned upgrades for this week are:

1) Magnaflow cat-back exhaust
2)CSF high perf radiator

and this is where I need you wonderful humans....

3) the Hayden 679 trans cooler.

Now, I'm pouring over all of these forums, pink milkshake, in line, bypass, series blah blah blah. I'm super handy and very mechanically inclined but have minimal experience with cars. Everything I have done is because this forum is amazing and youtube rocks. SO.

My main question is...

If I upgrade to the high performance CSF all aluminum radiator ($350) do you think it would also be beneficial to add the Hayden 679 t Cooler?

OR since the CSF rad is so 'high performance' and cooling capacity is increased so much - would the Hayden be unnecessary?

I'm admittedly lacking knowledge on this whole subject in general. It seems like nobody can agree on the whole 'pink milkshake' issue and if it is a real threat, if it is really that common, why it happens, and, particularly in my situation, which method of installation will be best.

Even as I'm writing this, I think I am understanding a bit more. The OEM radiator cools with coolant as well as tranny fluid - although obviously they should be in different, separate systems. They just happen to use the same fin system and share the radiator?

Help. thanks.