Transmission cooler: to by-pass the radiator or not to by-pass it

Sticks have a granny gear that autos don't. Helps tremendously.. I ran an 1800 stall on my 47re (DTT billet) and locked in first it wasn't happy even with afc tuning and mods. Second gear though was a freaking blast when the turbo lit. And no I never sled pulled. I drag raced.


Back I the mid to late 90's my brother and I pulled. When everyone started putting their drag car motors in their trucks I literally went from top 3 to last in 1 year. My brother on the other hand went to the local Bosch fuel injection house and got big injectors, Mack 350hp torque plate, throttle advanced to the stops etc. my brother and I repaired their injector pump calibration stands. He only had 2 choices for clutches at that time. A dual friction plate McCloid, or full comp metal on metal clutch.

He would do 93.5mph in the quarter at Maple Grove in 2wd spinning to the top of 4th gear. (1000ft mark). With the stock lift pump and fuel lines blowing 60psi of boost once in 3rd gear. The clutch did not slip. However it was expensive and did not last that long. Two truck pulling events. And three drag racing days in it was done and needed replaced. Lost a pull off do to that one time. This was say 98-01.

I don't think one could load the Afc enough to get max fuel flow in 1st. I think my max boost in low range or 1st high range is 10-15psi.

Edit: I have my AFC set so I only get max fuel at around 10psi. I hate the smoke and the turbo never lights off at low RPMs anyway. My Brother could over fuel his 96 with all his mods at low RPM and it really snotted up his oil. He had his AFC tweaked also. At 2000 miles his oil looked like arse.
I never went past 1mm throttle advance due to the stick trans.
 
Last edited:
I agree that the torque convertor is the culprit when it comes to heat. This is an older auto transmission design and the tc does not lock up as quickly as a modern trans. Variable low speed driving especially on steep terrain is what puts out a lot of heat. Toyota knows this which is why they run it through such a robust engine cooling system. Living on a small mountainous island I could never get my trans temps below 180 with a stand alone cooler even as I read about everyone else running under 160. My 4runner is light( no weight in the back, no trailer hitch) with no air obstruction and my engine temps run dead on 180 +/- 2 degrees. I finally realized the torque convertor never locked up much and never would. Thankfully a wrecked standard runner fell into my lap and I don't have to play the cool the overheated slush box game. If i was still playing I would probably have taken the cooler off and bought a new radiator.


If I ever run across a 94-95 Dodge Ram with the auto and cummins diesel I'm really thinking about taking the shell and tube heat exchanger trans cooler mounted under the turbo and finding a place to mount it in the Runner. Using the cooling line to the engine oil cooler as its coolant source.
 
So, yes I’m sucking you all back in. The OP turned me onto this thread from my own thread about towing and my tranny temp by kindly calling me "irrational" and “incompetent.” So I did my due diligence and read all 15 pages and thought I saw the horse twitch and decided to kick it one more time.

I brought you all back to hopefully put an end to this (IMHO). Though if the last 15 pages are any indication I'm sure the OP will refute me anyway. It required my getting my old physics book out and doing some research on thermodynamics so for those of you who want “facts” this is the best I personally can come up with. This may seem ridiculous but so was most of the last 15 pages. If you aren’t interested in the details, feel free to skip to the bottom.

Lets start with the equation for heat conduction:

Q= (k·A·ΔT)t/L

Q= heat conducted
A= surface area
ΔT = change in temp
t = time
L = length of conduction (this is negligible in this case as you’ll see below)
k = thermal conductivity of a given substance

Now the OP was absolutely correct about the fact liquid conducts much better than air. As seen here.

k of air = 0.0256
k of water = 0.60 (I don’t have the k value of tranny fluid or coolant but it is likely the same)

To prove this point I will leave all other variables constant between both groups. For this first example we are also going to assume that ambient air temp is the same as engine temp (180°F) and transmission temp is 230°F. Therefore ΔT will be 50°F. And time will be 60 seconds. L will be 1 given the fact the distance heat is traveling is millimeters.

Q Air = (0.0256 · 1 · 50°F) · 60s/1 = 76.8
Q Water = (0.60 · 1 · 50°F) · 60s/1 = 1,800

As you can see if the thermal conductivity is the only variable then the OP is certainly correct and the external cooler is far inferior to the radiator. Water is essentially 23 times better at conducting heat. BUT there are a few other variables to consider.

First lets consider the ΔT, since nowhere on this planet are people driving around in 180°F heat. Conduction is highly variable based on the temperature gradient, the higher the gradient the faster heat will move. So on this next step I’ll change the ambient temp to 100°F. Now ΔT for the external cooler is 130°F.

Q Air = (0.0256 · 1 ·130°F) · 60s/1 = 199.68 which I’ll round to 200

Given this the rad cooler is still 9 times more efficient than the external cooler.

Now I’m going to factor one last variable and that’s surface area. I have no concrete data as to how large the internal tube is that the rad runs the tranny fluid through. My measuring the distance between the inlet/outlet is roughly 14” long, and for this I’ll say it’s 1” diameter which is probably an overestimate. That makes the surface area of this around 44 square inches (2 · π ·r · h). I recently purchased a Derale 13403 stacked plate cooler for my towing needs (see my thread), which is the largest they make. Based on the online specs I’ll say the plates are 10” across, 2” inches deep and there are 19 of them. Keeping in mind each plate has 2 sides the surface area 760 square inches. Now lets compare:

Q Air = (0.0256 · 760” · 130°F) · 60s/L = 151,756
Q Water = (0.60 · 44” · 50°F) · 60s/L = 79,200

Lo and behold! The external cooler wins! Now of course not everyone has the same cooler I bought, and I’ll still admit the surface areas are rough estimates.

There is also one more variable to consider but I should really go do something productive (after wasting FAR too much time reading this thread) and that’s how much faster air conducts when moving (AKA wind chill), which also vary based on ambient temp and speed but I think we can all agree that the internal rad cooler will have zero.

Class adjourned (insert smiley that drops the mic and walks away).











 
Last edited:
I think you were seeing things, not only did the horse not twitch, it has been buried for quite some time... I think you just wanted an excuse to do a necropsy... Lol. You are also forgetting a major and equally important reason for the external cooler -solves the problem of the "pink milkshake"...
 
He said what?

You conveniently left out the important variables. Im not going to fight you on your high school physics. You really can only compare each device's thermal efficiency in BTUs. I would assume the rad cooler would be more efficient than your plate cooler.

Go to the manufactures website and they will tell you the thermal capabilities of each cooler. B&M claims a 20* degree temp drop. So simple math tells you what? If your trans is running hot, your air cooler will be make it 20* less hot.

:deadhorse:
 
Last edited:
I love a good necropsy but I am not a doctor even on the internet. Let me give my layman's summary

1. Extreme conditions
A Cold weather- trans cooler + new radiator +synthetic fluid

B Hot weather- Large stand alone cooler + fan upgrade + synthetic fluid

2. Moderate conditions

Large stand alone trans cooler + synthetic fluid

3. Highway use

Any cooler and any fluid

If you are either 1 or 2 you really need to be able to check your transmission temps. If you have 96-98 put a sensor in the line, if you have a later model read it through the ecu. You can't fix something unless you know what the problem is
 
Or just leave it stock and let it run as the factory designed it to and that has proven effective for hundreds of thousands of 4runner's across the nation.
 
I have no problem with running it like it comes from the factory. I will say if you have 150,00 miles on it you should replace the radiator just like you would replace the ball joint. There are also thousands of 4runners sitting in junk yards because of maintenance neglect.
 
You keep saying this, but can you back it up with facts? Not trying to be a dyck, it's just that you seem very confident.
X043

X041
X1vQ
 
No facts, but I am quite confident there are thousands of 4runners sitting in junk yards because of maintenance neglect in general, not just radiators. This whole thread was started because the radiators occasionally fail and the end result is the failure of the transmission which is expensive and difficult to fix. A trans cooler is an inexpensive fix to almost guarantee that not happening. So is replacing your radiator. Does this mean your radiator will fail? No and the majority of radiators will not fail. If you could spend 200$ to eliminate the risk, would you? That is the real question. I love my 4runner and I don't mind spending money on it to eliminate risk. Having everybody understand the risk and the benefit and the issues with coolers is what this thread should be about.
 
Lets start with the equation for heat conduction:

Q= (k·A·ΔT)t/L

Now I’m going to factor one last variable and that’s surface area. I have no concrete data as to how large the internal tube is...

Q Air = (0.0256 · 760” · 130°F) · 60s/L = 151,756
Q Water = (0.60 · 44” · 50°F) · 60s/L = 79,200

Lo and behold! blah blah blah...

Yikes... There's really no reason to try to explain how inaccurate any of those calculations are. Suffice to say, there is way more involved in calculating heat exchanger efficiency than the conduction equation.

Just FYI here's what the trans cooler in the radiator looks like.

OEM trans heat exchanger: Link

So even if your calculation was somewhat meaningful (it's not btw), the surface area of the oem cooler you used is about 5 times too small. That makes your numbers say the opposite of what you were trying to point out.


I use an external cooler and bypass my radiator too, but that's only because the way I drive my average trans temp is 145°F at which point the radiator would only be adding heat - and I didn't want that.
 
Yikes... There's really no reason to try to explain how inaccurate any of those calculations are. Suffice to say, there is way more involved in calculating heat exchanger efficiency than the conduction equation.

Just FYI here's what the trans cooler in the radiator looks like.

OEM trans heat exchanger: Link

So even if your calculation was somewhat meaningful (it's not btw), the surface area of the oem cooler you used is about 5 times too small. That makes your numbers say the opposite of what you were trying to point out.


I use an external cooler and bypass my radiator too, but that's only because the way I drive my average trans temp is 145°F at which point the radiator would only be adding heat - and I didn't want that.

Unlike some I have no problem admitting I'm wrong. As I said it was my best shot. Thermodynamics seems pretty straight forward to me but maybe I'm over simplifying the idea in my head. I'd love for some to explain.

I realize the external rad is a combo of conduction, convection and radiation for exchanging heat. As far as I can tell the internal will be conduction only (which is the most efficient).

I said I was guessing on the size of the internal cooler. Since you pulled one out I'm curious if the core was aluminum? Knowing in both cases the first medium is metal [stock: liquid > metal > liquid, external: liquid > metal > air] I do know aluminum has a very high conduction rate which I'm sure if why it's used on most radiators.

Also curious what to surface area of that OEM unit is. Knowing the larger the surface area the longer it will take for the fluid to cross it making time a variable instead of a constant like I used.
 
Also curious what to surface area of that OEM unit is.

It is aluminum, yes. Just over 200 in^2. There aren't any fins on the plates, but they are dimpled.

Air, water, and oil are all fluids - which means a convective heat transfer. The only conduction is within the walls of the exchanger plates and fins.

So it would look more like:
fluid to core (convection) --> within core plates/fins (conduction) --> core to environment (convection)

Also there is a significant temperature gradient across the exchanger: ∆T at the inlet is higher than ∆T at the outlet.

Thermodynamics is certainly fun, but far from straight forward... at least not in the sense that you're hoping for.


Notwithstanding the heat transfer shenanigans, an external cooler w/ bypassed radiator is a perfectly acceptable cooling scheme for your transmission. I live in the Valley of the Sun and enjoy sub 160°F trans temperatures even when ambient air approaches 120°F. It's a proven combination.
 
Last edited:
This is waaay after the fact but I have some Toyota facts, straight from Toyota.

1. Pink Milkshakes are RARE. 99% of them are owner neglect!
Don't blame the same factory radiator still being used @180K miles, combined with POOR cooling system maint, if any. Time Bomb waiting....

2a. Do NOT bypass the radiator. Just spend $200 on your baby every 100K miles (NEW radiator, OEM thermostat, proper RED coolant) $200 every 100K miles is CHEAP compared to a ruined trans.....If you are putting a decent load by towing/hauling, or planning to, you can simply empty your overflow tank and replace that coolant with a bottle of Water Wetter OR DISTILLED water. (Offset the 50/50 a bit....coolant hurts temps in heat).

2b. Adding a B&M cooler IN SERIES is totally fine...just check periodically that you don't incur the slightest leak at the fittings. Besides the loss of fluid, you're letting air in.

2c. In really cold weather...simply do the Big Rig Trick (Good Truckers, uh hem, aren't good truckers for no reason) Cardboard the F'n external cooler!!!
Attach the same mount pads like on B&M coolers, to the cooler side of the cardboard. Use some thin wire as a make shift cage to secure it. Done! Remove when weather warms up.

3. Inline trans temp gauge sender to a quality Gauge is a wise investment.
In my own Peterbilt Tanker Rig, I'm constantly watching about 9 gauges.
One extra won't kill anyone. ;)

In Short:
The Toyota Engineers designed an awesome vehicle. Never Never Never think you're smarter!!! Maintain it like they advise...overkill isn't a bad thing either.
1-DO NOT bypass the radiator. 2-In Series Cooler. 3-Trans Temp Gauge. 4-Visually inspect and Maintain. (replace Rad/Therm/Coolant every 100k- 80K if you're worried..or at every Timing Belt Replacement) Small coin compared to the alternative!!!

Too many to list and thank, but there's alot of smart Runner Pilots here.
I've learned things about mine from all of you. Thank you!!


My un-asked-for 3 cents ;)
 
A lot of good info here.

Here’s what I’ve learned.

1) Do NOT bypass the radiator
2) transmission cooler is fine if you run it in series
3) Replace radiator and fluids with OEM every 100k Miles
 
jeredcollins,

Your personal conclusion to not bypass the radiator is totally fine. Replacing the radiator is great, I hope everyone does it.

But since the conversation is STILL alive and going, here's a bit more real life evidence to add to the pile:

I've been running my radiator bypassed, with a B&M 70264 for over 80k miles. 80k. I monitor the trans temp with a ScanGaugeII, with one of the 4 preset readout's showing ATF temp, so I literally can always see what it is, to the degree. I've driven my rig from -10F to 105F conditions. The external cooler by itself works great.

Sure, if you decide to not bypass the radiator, it's fine, its good, two thumbs up. But you also don't have to decide NOT to just because people on the forum say to not out-think the Toyota engineers, or spout evidence that is made up in their mind.
 
...

Your personal conclusion to not bypass the radiator is totally fine. Replacing the radiator is great, I hope everyone does it.

But since the conversation is STILL alive and going, here's a bit more real life evidence to add to the pile:
... up in their mind.

Well all those statements are fine and dandy yet what happens when the trans temps hit 248 climbing the Davis mountains while only being bypassed?

Does one continue abusing the tranny or decide to re-instate the Toyo designed tranny cooling system that uses fluid to fluid vs fluid to air heat exchanging? With both systems on the temps don't go about 194 in the same mountain passes during the same ambient temps (100+).


:cowboy:
 
Well all those statements are fine and dandy yet what happens when the trans temps hit 248 climbing the Davis mountains while only being bypassed?

Does one continue abusing the tranny or decide to re-instate the Toyo designed tranny cooling system that uses fluid to fluid vs fluid to air heat exchanging? With both systems on the temps don't go about 194 in the same mountain passes during the same ambient temps (100+).


:cowboy:

Great example of situation where you need the extra cooling! If you're climbing mountain passes on the regular, then that definitely calls for MORE cooling ability than even provided by the factory. I don't do mountain passes except very rarely when traveling, and with just the radiator (in my '99), I hit 220, and with just the cooler (in my '01), I hit 230...both acceptable for the rare situation it was for me personally.

But yeah, if you need beefy cooling because of the driving you do, keep the radiator and add a cooler on. That's totally what I'd do if I was in the mountains all the time with big elevation changes, or towing for sure.

I should have clarified my post above, by saying: there ARE situations where you should not bypass the factory radiator. But hopefully you understand those situations, and don't just say "bypassing the radiator is bad, period."
 
Last edited:
My wifes Forerunner (1998) got the milkshakes bad, so bad that it destroyed the transmission. I think I will put a separate cooler in the Taco, just in case. I am not concerned about heat exchange, whether the separate cooler does a better job or not, I just want to have all of the fluids separate, just in case the rad packs it in. I can't afford to risk the price of a transmission in the Taco...

Once bitten, twice shy..
 
I got 3 4 runners, my son's 4th gen, old family 3rd gen n wife's new trd 5th gen n i never fix something that isn't broken. The 3rd gen has 318k miles with the original radiator and other than suspension parts most others major parts are original. I check fluids regularly n change oil periodically. Flush the radiator and add lucas transmission fix once a year. The 3rd gen even gets 23 mpg which is higher than the the 4th n 5th gen. I believe that proper maintenance n watching the fluids in your vehicle can go a long way to prevent most major issues. Btw the 4th gen has 260k miles and runs like a champ. I won't add a trans cooler to any of 4 runners because i don't tow anything heavy with them. My tundra does all towing. Climbing mtn passes on the way to the ski runs or mtn camping isn't enough to stress any of these vehicles transmissions.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,130
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top