Where are you at in NC. If you are close to Durham. I have a buddy that is a lexus master tech that moonlights. He can hook you up for a pretty reasonable price.
Transmission flush or drain?
- Thread starter Smhx4
- Start date
Where are you at in NC. If you are close to Durham. I have a buddy that is a lexus master tech that moonlights. He can hook you up for a pretty reasonable price.
Johns06yota
Member
I’m in the Charlotte area so about 2 hours away. Do you have an idea of the price I would expect to pay? If the price is right I would definitely take it to your friend.
Thanks,
John
oljedi11950
New member
About 92k I took mine to my guy Used Car Mngr. & got the deal & it was still 160$ ! Had them do a drain & fill no flush . Older searches told to do that instead of power flush & stirring up old & pushing back into tranny . 1st time after could feel it being much smoother shifting . 
eace:
eace:About 92k I took mine to my guy Used Car Mngr. & got the deal & it was still 160$ ! Had them do a drain & fill no flush . Older searches told to do that instead of power flush & stirring up old & pushing back into tranny . 1st time after could feel it being much smoother shifting .
Did they do multiple drain and fills running it a bit in between each one or was it a single one? If a single one that is a rip off as it takes less than 4 at a and about 15 minutes to do it that way.
oljedi11950
New member
To my knowledge this was how they serviced my 05 ! Hooked up & pulled old fluid out & then pumped in new WS . Now 160$ was a deal considering normal price is 240 or more ! The objective was achieved because it def shifted smoother IMO . :music: Maybe BWInc. can straighten us all out !
Montego Murph
Member
That would be amazing if I could get a price like that around here. That's about what it cost just to buy the fluid to do it yourself doesn't it?
oljedi11950
New member
O I know F-n ridonculous ! Only reason is my buddy is UC Mngr. there .
That's the going price for a drain and refill around my way. $160
Atlanta_man
New member
$160 ? I'd want to keep a close eye on them at this price.
Add another $100 to set the final level if there's no dipstick ? (probably a fair price)
Add another $100 to set the final level if there's no dipstick ? (probably a fair price)
pjbrownva
New member
The logic that I've always heard about trans fluid and vehicles, is that if you have gone a long time without doing anything to your tranny, you need to examine the fluid. If it's almost black, has a burnt smell and is even a little thick, then the "common wisdom" is that replacing the fluid may do more harm than good. A seriously neglected trans that is still working, can be harmed by cleaning it out and putting in new fluid. Getting rid of the gunk in there, can cause the trans to slip and fail. :wow2:
Note, that this only applies if your fluid is really bad and smells burnt -- the logic being that there probably is already damage, and cleaning out the trans will only make the damage more noticeable.
Otherwise, definitely have your fluid replaced. I personally don't think 149K is too late, especially since your T4R has a newer breed of "long life" fluid, that is supposed to last much longer.
I'd tend to agree, especially with the comment about checking the fluid level, although your T4R should have the sealed, 5 speed trans, so there is no dip-stick to check the fluid level. If it's a 4 speed auto, it has the dip stick. If it's a 5 speed auto, then the trans is sealed.
Agreed. I would suggest staying away from a pressurized "flush", or anything that uses cleaners. Your best bet is to have the fluid "replaced", meaning let the old fluid be pumped out, and new fluid put in to replace it -- but not under pressure and without using any cleaners or solvents.
I think the price should including checking and setting the final level. It's about a 10 minute procedure for a mechanic with a lift, and that includes the time to warm up the trans.
Just my $0.02. :blah::blah::blah::blah::blah:
BTW, for those who want a DIY trans fluid replacement method, see this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/195074-atf-exchange-using-cooling-line.html#post1992316
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I have been "flushing" with ONLY the aid of the car's engine the transmission of my cars, e.g. Volvos, Toyotas, VWs, Audis with success for many years. I would perform this task either every 2 years or every ~ 25K miles, especially if you do heavy duty towing or otherwise you stress your transmission and/or have no transmission oil cooler (optional installation.)
Toyota makes quality cars BUT in some areas are completely clueless!! Typically, Toyota hasn't matched the Swedish or others in proper rust-protection. The WS ATF type specified by Toyota has lots of nonsense built into it. It is totally foolish for one to NEVER replace the ATF in the above noted conditions or when a car exceeds 150K miles.
In any event, I wish to add the following in the original post here:
1. Warm-up the engine for 3-5 minutes.
2. Wear proper protective gloves, etc. so the relatively hot ATF does burn you as you would be removing the ATF plug.
3. Remove the ATF plug and remove as much fluid as it would come-out from the car's transmission. If your car has been used either in stress conditions or has more than 150k miles, then drop the transmission pan, clean the filter, pan, drain plug, etc. and re-install with new gasket (possibly a seal as well for the filter.) Torque pan bolts to specified value.
Be CAREFUL:
The values might be in Inches-lbs or Ft-lbs. You may strip or crack your transmission pan IF you mix-up the specified values!!!
4. Re-install the transmission drain plug and torque it to the specified value.
5. Measure the amount of ATF which was removed from the car and add an equal volume of it through the process of the original post or the transmission's fill plug. Do NOT use the expensive WS ATF fluid. Instead use any of the much less expensive alternative ATF fluids that are listed in https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...a-ws-atf-automaitc-transmission-fluid.373083/
6. Continue the "flushing" process as it has been documented in the original post here and amended in my post.
7. Drive the car for 200-300 miles or even a bit longer to ensure all the burrs, residue of the previous oil in the transmission has been detached from the internal surfaces of the transmission and it is either dropped at the bottom of the pan or mixed with the non-WS, new ATF fluid.
8. Repeat the above process once more, if you really wish to return your car's transmission in its best possible operational state or simply repeat the above process using Toyota's EXPENSIVE WS ATF fluid.
9. Monitor the performance quality of your car's transmission and perform this task as often but PROPERLY as it might be required.
Good Luck!
Disclaimer:
My post contains ONLY suggestions. You are responsible to read, comprehend what I have written and then take proper action.
Here's another way to flush thru the radiator. Works pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3fu0wiabFQ
Trans drain & refill on a "do not service transmission"
Advice please.
I took my 2004 v8 4Runner wi 175,000 miles to the Toyota dealership & asked for a trans fluid change.
They said it is a no service transmission and didn't do it....
The posts seem to differ in opinion on whether to change the fluid or not.
Is there a consensus on what to do about trans fluid?
1) do nothing? Pros & Cons?
2) drain & refill? Pros & Cons?
2) flush? Pros & Cons?
Advice please.
I took my 2004 v8 4Runner wi 175,000 miles to the Toyota dealership & asked for a trans fluid change.
They said it is a no service transmission and didn't do it....
The posts seem to differ in opinion on whether to change the fluid or not.
Is there a consensus on what to do about trans fluid?
1) do nothing? Pros & Cons?
2) drain & refill? Pros & Cons?
2) flush? Pros & Cons?
The only consensus is that it's NOT a no-service transmission despite the "lifetime" fluid claims.
Personally, I had an exchange done by Toyota earlier this year and have had no issues, but that was on a 2008 with 105k. That said, at minimum, I'd do a few drain/fills to cycle in some new fluid.
Hope that helps
My response to your questions follows:
Is there a consensus on what to do about trans fluid?
1) do nothing? Pros & Cons?
Pros:
Probably none.
Cons:
Mechanisms with numerous moving parts at high speed require proper lubrication or they will wear out and fail much faster. Why? Metallic parts have high surface tension when they rub against each other. So, the oil acts as a slippery agent to minimize friction. Yet, oil looses its lubricity over time. Therefore, your car's mileage will start going downhill because the transmission moving parts will encounter too much friction/resistance to move and do whatever they must do per their design. The car manufacturers want to boast that their company cars' transmission is sealed and doesn't need an oil change but that is ALL baloney per the scientific evidence I have documented above. So, do yourself and your car a favor - replace the transmission oil every 2 years or ~ 25K miles, depending how ROUGH you drive and stress the transmission. Towing a boat or a heavy RV are examples of stress on your car's transmission,
2) drain & refill? Pros & Cons?
Pros:
Probably none.
Cons:
Very costly, time consuming and you really never get all of the old, non-lubricious oil out.
3) flush? Pros & Cons?
Pros:
Flush per each of the steps in my previous post.
Also, do NOT forget to shift through all the gears so all the oil in there to come out.
Rather inexpensive and relatively fast as compared to the drain/fill n-times method.
Your car's mileage will either improve or continue to be near its max range. Why? Because, all moving parts in the transmission will be doing their required tasks without encountering too much friction/resistance given the oil which is the interface agent between them will be lubricious.
Attention:
NEVER flush with power machine.
Cons.
Probably none.
Good luck.
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Montego Murph
Member
I'm a little confused here -- What does turning the steering wheel back and forth have to do with the transmission fluid? To the best of my knowledge the power steering system and transmission are completely separate.
!Supersonic
New member
Your transmission is a hydraulic machine and it works best with clean fluid.
A video on the 2009 Sienna at 5:44, that shows the gentleman pumping out from the radiator exit, the other side of the line put it in an empty jug. The other side of the line is where you'd pour in your clean fluid in, that will be your transmission return.
In summary, if you got a sealed transmission you're pumping out from the return coming out of the radiator and your pouring the clean stuff into the line return line that goes to the transmission.
2009 Toyota Sienna Transmission Fluid Flush and Filter Change
YouTube
A video on the 2009 Sienna at 5:44, that shows the gentleman pumping out from the radiator exit, the other side of the line put it in an empty jug. The other side of the line is where you'd pour in your clean fluid in, that will be your transmission return.
In summary, if you got a sealed transmission you're pumping out from the return coming out of the radiator and your pouring the clean stuff into the line return line that goes to the transmission.
2009 Toyota Sienna Transmission Fluid Flush and Filter Change
YouTube
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chris in ky
New member
I killed a tranny on my 94 Jeep XJ doing a BG power flush, jammed up the solenoid channels with sediment and started slipping.
But anyway, my 2006 T4r has 207,000 miles on the clock and to my knowledge has never been changed. I hope the fluid lasts a 'lifetime' as they say.
But anyway, my 2006 T4r has 207,000 miles on the clock and to my knowledge has never been changed. I hope the fluid lasts a 'lifetime' as they say.
