Transmission: just revs after highway speed and complete stop.

[Qyota]

**This is more or less a re-post of the same topic in the 3rd gen forum. Sorry to those who might see this thread twice. I thought it best to post it in this forum as well**

Intermittent problem with my 1999 T4R Limited 4x4 auto (136,000 miles).

After the truck is completely warmed up, this problem happens with some regularity. Here's what happens:

After driving on a highway (anything above about 55mph), and coming to a complete stop (like at the bottom of an off-ramp, or stop sign), the truck acts like it's in neutral. I have to wait, or shift through the gears for a while, all the while cars back up behind me, until it finally "catches" into gear and will then proceed to move as normal.

Truck shifts fine otherwise. No problem if I don't drive at highway speeds before stopping. I tested a theory of not using O/D this weekend, and it seemed to NOT have the issue when O/D was turned OFF. May just be coincidence, though.

Fluid drained/filled twice in the last 500 miles. Before that it was a brownish color, but did not smell burned. I replaced with DexIII. I haven't yet dropped the pan, but will soon (as time permits) and replace filter.

Any ideas?

Thanks :thumb3:

 

[Qyota]

Following up, in case anyone is watching this thread.

More testing is validating my theory that when O/D is kept OFF, the transmission does not go into a "neutral state" after highway speeds and stopping (or even slowing to sub-10 mph).

Does this point more towards sticky solenoids and/or valves, or might it be something with the transmission ECU? I am getting NO CODES with my ScanGuageII, so I don't think it's a solenoid issue.

I called a trans tech yesterday and he was very helpful over the phone. Said to drop the pan and inspect magnets and filter...then make a judgement. So, now all I need is some time to get that done! Hopefully this weekend. I'll post pics of the (probably) gory details.

 

[Kmvreter]

I was following your other thread also.
Reads like it is within the tranny valve body not allowing the downshift out of top gear. I'm no mechanic and as you stated before there is very little DIY info out there on this. That is for a reason: Many won't dare tear into an internal tranny repair. I personally wouldn't. My opinion is not to even open it up and try the filter cleaning/replacement. You've done a very detailed diagnosis and the shop you end up taking it to (sounds like you have a reasonable guy in mind; not a stealership) will have to open it anyways. Save your money on this step and leave it to the pros.

 

[Qyota]

That's solid advice...and I might just do that. I don't really have time anyway...although I have more time than money right now!

I appreciate your input!

 

[Qyota]

Update, in case anyone is interested.

Over the weekend we took a ~4 hour freeway trip for the holiday weekend. Upon exiting the freeway, the tranny did it's thing at the first stop. Then it did something relatively new. It entered it's "neutral state" at the next several stops...not just the first one! Each time, I had to manually shift down into L to get it to engage 1st gear. Then I had to manually shift to 2nd, and finally to D. I couldn't go from L to D...it would just rev. Finally made it to my destination, pissed that the problem has gotten worse.

It did the same thing on the return trip. After ~4 hours on the freeway, the exit ramp stop and every subsequent stop before entering my garage resulted in the same problem. Had to shift down to L, then 2, then D, through the gears.

Now, this morning (the first day of driving since the weekend), I back out of the garage and put it in drive. Nothing...just revs. Great! It's getting worse! I shifted down into L, and it engaged and I was off...having to shift up through 2 and finally D. I had to do this all the way through town, but it eventually worked just leaving it in D (for whatever reason).

So I called my trans tech and told him what's up. He says the valve body is probably gunked up, and it working only intermittently now. Still not getting any codes, so it's probably a mechanical / hydraulic problem and not electronic.

He's currently looking for a replacement valve body for me. Can't imagine what that's going to cost. Wait, yes I can...LOTS! Grrr...

Anyway, that's the latest. I'll keep this thread updated as the adventure continues. Hopefully it will save some poor bas**** some time in the future. Can't believe I'm the only one with this particular problem...

 

[Qyota]

Latest update:

Now Toyota and my trans technician think it's the 1st gear clutch sprag. I didn't know this thing could cause such an intermittent problem (I thought when the sprag went, it just went). The solution would be to overhaul or replace trans with a donor. Donor option is about half the price, but I won't know much of the history, other than miles.

Anyone have a comment on the sprag thing?

Thanks

 

[KB084RUNNER]

Latest update:

Now Toyota and my trans technician think it's the 1st gear clutch sprag. I didn't know this thing could cause such an intermittent problem (I thought when the sprag went, it just went). The solution would be to overhaul or replace trans with a donor. Donor option is about half the price, but I won't know much of the history, other than miles.

Anyone have a comment on the sprag thing?

Thanks

A sprag is a roller clutch that looks like a roller bearing with square rollers. It is usually a one way clutch that keeps the rotating components from rotating backwards or will spin freely when overloaded. Once it is shot...it is shot. It probably just hasn't totally grenaded yet so it would be a good idea to get the trans re-built before it grenades and does more damage. You might find pieces of it in the trans pan. I would opt for the rebuild unles you find a wrecked 4R with really low miles and the trans is not hit.

 

[Qyota]

A sprag is a roller clutch that looks like a roller bearing with square rollers. It is usually a one way clutch that keeps the rotating components from rotating backwards or will spin freely when overloaded. Once it is shot...it is shot. It probably just hasn't totally grenaded yet so it would be a good idea to get the trans re-built before it grenades and does more damage. You might find pieces of it in the trans pan. I would opt for the rebuild unles you find a wrecked 4R with really low miles and the trans is not hit.

Thanks for the info. The donor option would be about $1300, with a 1year parts and labor warranty. Should be enough time to rule out any issues. These aren't problematic transmissions, so getting a good one should be easy. Not knowing the area of impact (and details of the collision), it's still sketchy.

Anyway, can you explain how the sprag is "bypassed" when manually shifting into 1st gear, rather than letting the trans do it in drive? I can always get the truck to move when shifting to 1st manually.

Doesn't matter much, as it's got to get fixed either way. :ybrick:

 

[Qyota]

Just to follow up and (hopefully) bring this saga to a close. I just drove home my "frankentruck" with the donor tranny. Drives great. $677 for the 78K tranny (clean inside) and 1 year parts/labor warranty, and $605 to install with new filter, gasket, pump seal, and ATF. Not too bad, I guess. Hopefully that's the end of the trans issues.

 

[004Gunner]

Good to hear! It sounds like you got a good deal to me. I've never heard of the issues you described but hopefully the one you have now will be smooth for another 150k miles

 

[tompaulfin]

00 4Runner Limited

I'm so glad I found your thread. The exact same thing is happening to me right now. I need to find a "donor" vehicle now as it looks as though I'm going to have to do the same thing to mine. $1300 is a lot cheaper than a new car for sure!

 

[tahoe2bay]

1998 Toyota 4Runner 4x4

Wow I finally found a thread describing my issues. My 4Runner goes into neutral when I come to a stop after freeway driving. The only way to get back into drive is to put the car into park and then back to drive. Alternatively I can drop to 2nd, (not engaging) and then into low with a harsh lurch forward as if rear ended and a Ka-thunk! Clearly the park back to drive method is better. I had the car tested for codes at a transmission shop. There were none. The transmission shop hooked the tranny up to a "pressure" testing device. No issues there either. They test drove the car and it would not act up for them . They charged me $98.00 for this testing. Now they want to drop the pan and inspect to see if there is any metal and to possibly replace the filter. I checked and there is no filter, and only a gasket. This shop has been in business 45 years and has an excellent reputation. They have never experienced this issue before. Hard to believe. It sounds like my tranny needs to be rebuilt. They are quoting me $2,600 for soft rebuilt not including any new parts other than seals. A friend of mine recommended sending my transmission to this company for a rebuild: http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml Has anyone had experience with this company?