Trd pro lift question

[FokkerSF]

Aren't the 6112s the same as the TRD pro setup?

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The springs on the 6112s are longer and I believe are 600# vs 550# on the trds. The toytec kit does firm up the ride, eliminate most nose dive and lifts the front almost 3 inches, but I found it way too firm off road and the truck was so high my wife hated it.

I am now running 6112s at 3rd clip and 2 inch toytec springs and stock Trd shocks in back. And I am running 275 bfg ko2. I agree if u plan on going toytec kit; the 285s would look better.

 

[Doc_Fry]

If you are going to install the fender flares then go 285's. I have that setup and opted for the spacers to fill the extra width the flares provide. I think it will be the perfect stance. Here's a pic with the Toytec Lift kit, 285's, Fender flares but NO spacers yet.

This should give you an idea of the extra width provided by the flares and why spacers IMO will give it the perfect stance.

FYI: I wanted to share soemthing with you as I plan on doing the same here. On the FJ forum same person I got my ARB Laser Cut Emblem and Laser Cut Switches for the dash. Anyways he also had Walker evans with the inserts and bushwackers as well. He reeplaced all the bolts on both the rim inserts and the stainless silver ones on the bushwacker with anodized bolts and buts with a hex head. I do like the Bushwackers but the silver bolts on them bother me.

On one hand they match the Lug Nits on a stock TRd Pro wheel. Black and silver. On the other hand anodized lug nuts and matching anodized nuts on the Bushwackers would just set it off and complete the look. Making it much more custom and thought out than just bolting on the parts. Which You and I seem to have the same affinity for. IE your custom light cut out on the bumper. I think it is the details that end up completing the look and way too often too many overlook this.

I would like to find a way to get anodized aluminum lug nuts in the same fashion as the stock lugs or a way to get them done. If I remember correctly the bolt manufacturer made titanium nuts fir race and aircraft like arp or similar. When the times comes I will find the old thread in the fj forum. Beautiful setup he had and even more money into it than I could imagine.. Like 50k in upgrades, but it sure did make the grade in the details and overall looks. Standing out just that little extra bit over anyone else with similar parts. In a way that is what makes this so interesting for me while staying out of the major mod bug. Might loose here but trying. Yet most of the mods are popular ones I am doing and want to stand above with my love for the details.

 

[Doc_Fry]

I have this lift installed and am leaving on my first fully loaded trip this weekend. Wife, two kids, cargo area completely loaded, Gobi rack completely loaded, etc. I was going to get airbags (airlift) installed today and the shop just called and said they will not work with the rear springs (superflex) on this kit. It was a air lift 1000 universal kit and both the shop and airlift confirmed they won't work. Concern is that the bump stops have to be fully cut flush and since the bump stops help hold the spring in place, the spring may dislodge if I get a bit too off camber while wheeling.

Does anyone have this TRD Pro Lift installed with air bags? If so, which ones?

Has anyone run this lift completely loaded without airbags and done some wheeling? Any issues with the weight?

I'm now a bit concerned on it's ride and handling when I'm fully loaded.

Even if you cut the bump stop all the way you just need to strap the spring in place so you would not loose it. Contact Metal Tech 4x4 as they do this with some of there long travel rear springs and could offer asistance

 

[Ridin4Runner]

Advice needed please.
Im a bit frustrated. I had the ToyTec lift installed a few months back and had alignment done. I noticed I was having crazy bump steer to the right. Took it back, they readjusted and and was now pulling to the right.

Due to the distance away and lack of being able to get correct I decided to cut my losses. I took it to 4 Wheel Parts since they deal with lifts. Paid their high price for an alignment and finally drove straight. I am now about 6K on the new alignment and my outer front walls are wearing very heavy. So I took back to them and they said normal for a car with 44K on the tires (even though has 40ish % tread left) as I drive mainly highway. And that it was time for an rotation anyway. I told him have rotated my tires every 10K for the last 12 years, so doubt that it is your recommendation of every 5K. Especially, considering these are 90% highway miles.

So now my tires are loud and Im pissed. Plus never liked these tires on wet surface, always like she could get loose on me. So I have decided to get new tires 275/70 KO2's. I just don't understand how after 3 alignments nobody can get this right. My thinking is get tires from Conrad's, they are great with lifetime tire rotations, and have them do a 4th alignment, then I am protected if they wear wrong.
Thoughts on why people are having so much trouble aligning my truck. I mean is there something that could be going on with the lift that is causing this much trouble? Thoughts?

 

[Trail Wonka]

Advice needed please.
Im a bit frustrated. I had the ToyTec lift installed a few months back and had alignment done. I noticed I was having crazy bump steer to the right. Took it back, they readjusted and and was now pulling to the right.

Due to the distance away and lack of being able to get correct I decided to cut my losses. I took it to 4 Wheel Parts since they deal with lifts. Paid their high price for an alignment and finally drove straight. I am now about 6K on the new alignment and my outer front walls are wearing very heavy. So I took back to them and they said normal for a car with 44K on the tires (even though has 40ish % tread left) as I drive mainly highway. And that it was time for an rotation anyway. I told him have rotated my tires every 10K for the last 12 years, so doubt that it is your recommendation of every 5K. Especially, considering these are 90% highway miles.

So now my tires are loud and Im pissed. Plus never liked these tires on wet surface, always like she could get loose on me. So I have decided to get new tires 275/70 KO2's. I just don't understand how after 3 alignments nobody can get this right. My thinking is get tires from Conrad's, they are great with lifetime tire rotations, and have them do a 4th alignment, then I am protected if they wear wrong.
Thoughts on why people are having so much trouble aligning my truck. I mean is there something that could be going on with the lift that is causing this much trouble? Thoughts?

44,000 miles is pretty good mileage for a set of tires. Can't imagine they are only at 60%. I like having tread and usually change mine around this time anyway. Not sure about specifics on your lift but often replacing the upper control arms to fit your lift can help with alignment.

 

[shrub1]

44,000 miles is pretty good mileage for a set of tires. Can't imagine they are only at 60%. I like having tread and usually change mine around this time anyway. Not sure about specifics on your lift but often replacing the upper control arms to fit your lift can help with alignment.

The Toytec lift for the PRO really shouldn't need aftermarket UCA. Perhaps the tires took on uneven wear while the alignment was off and now they are a mess. Sometimes you can't unring the bell and this may be one of those cases.

 

[TxPunisher]

Perhaps the tires took on uneven wear while the alignment was off and now they are a mess. Sometimes you can't unring the bell and this may be one of those cases.

I was thinking this exact same thing myself.:usa2:

 

[Ridin4Runner]

44,000 miles is pretty good mileage for a set of tires. Can't imagine they are only at 60%. I like having tread and usually change mine around this time anyway. Not sure about specifics on your lift but often replacing the upper control arms to fit your lift can help with alignment.

Proof in the pudding...On my LE Runner I got 73K on Hankook 275's. These are my Nitto's that came on it.

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[Ridin4Runner]

The Toytec lift for the PRO really shouldn't need aftermarket UCA. Perhaps the tires took on uneven wear while the alignment was off and now they are a mess. Sometimes you can't unring the bell and this may be one of those cases.

Agree and good thought. But this was all within a somewhat small window. Probably 1500-1700K before last alignment that has now provided this mess. I ordered 275/70 KO2s today from Conrads. Will have them do an alignment and the at least I'm covered if they wear funny.


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[shrub1]

Agree and good thought. But this was all within a somewhat small window. Probably 1500-1700K before last alignment that has now provided this mess. I ordered 275/70 KO2s today from Conrads. Will have them do an alignment and the at least I'm covered if they wear funny.


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Good plan. I bet with proper balancing and alignment (and eventual rotation) you will be good to go.

 

[Sno Dawg]

the future of my TRD Pro

This is grew information. I have been looking of more clearance and to install 285 on my TRD Pro. I have a Tepui RTT and a CVT Batwing awning on it now. I should be getting my Gobi Stealth rack with ladder tomorrow.

This rig is finally coming along after trading in my 07 Tacoma TRD SR5 for frame rot. Friggin' Tacoma frame rot made me swear off getting another Tacoma - forever.

1999 Tacoma TRD SR5 - major frame rot - huge hole in frame received $16,000
2007 Tacoma TRD SR5 - frame rot - not perforations - Toyota offered to "coat i" with some shit that would probably drip all over my driveway and last for two years.
NO MORE TACOMAS FOR ME!!!!

I Love my TRD Pro!

Sno Dawg

 

[3RDCoastTRDP]

Here you go - Before/After shots of my TRDP with the Toytec 1" leveling spacer kit (Part No. 'BAJA1-B', designed specifically for 4R TRDP's and TRD Baja Tacos).

I couldn't be happier with the results. The installation took about 2.5 hours, and I'd rate it a 6 out of 10 for difficulty (at least at my level). The most difficult part was getting the strut assemblies out (and back in) and of course the most precarious part was compressing the spring (rented the tool from Autozone - no charge, just a $55 fully refundable deposit). Definitely get an extra set of hands to help you out if you go this route.

The stance is perfect, in my opinion. For those not wanting to install the 2" Toytec lift or are wanting to wait until your stock Nittos wear to do so, this is the way to go (I think the 2" lift looks borderline silly without replacing the stock 275s w/ 285s). As far as mitigating nose-dive when braking...it does...slightly...enough for it not to bother me anymore if that makes any sense. From what I understand, although the springs are pre-loaded the spring rate is the same, so I'm assuming it has to do with CG/weight distribution. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong. Also - No perception of reverse rake, whatsoever.

Here are the pics:

Stock setup, before/after installation:



After I was finally able to clear her up:

 

[Ridin4Runner]

The stance is perfect, in my opinion. For those not wanting to install the 2" Toytec lift or are wanting to wait until your stock Nittos wear to do so, this is the way to go (I think the 2" lift looks borderline silly without replacing the stock 275s w/ 285s). As far as mitigating nose-dive when braking...it does...slightly...enough for it not to bother me anymore if that makes any sense. From what I understand, although the springs are pre-loaded the spring rate is the same, so I'm assuming it has to do with CG/weight distribution. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong. Also - No perception of reverse rake, whatsoever.



Here are the pics:

Stock Nitto's are 265s not 275s. I do think of course 285 looks better. I just ordered 275s due to the amout of highway driving I do. Especially in the winter months.

 

[3RDCoastTRDP]

I knew that :frusty:

 

[InspectahDeck]

After months of waiting and deliberating and changing my mind, I'll finally be getting this the Toytec kit with SAW 1.5" rears installed on Tuesday. Along with that, I'll be adding the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70/17s in E range. Happy to be making progress. I'll definitely post up some pics here when it's done. I'll try to upload some before measurements, pics, etc., in my "build" thread this weekend in case anyone is interested. Everyone here helped me a lot in making decision on what to go with. So, I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product. Now, on to deciding about sliders...

 

[Dog Runner]

After months of waiting and deliberating and changing my mind, I'll finally be getting this the Toytec kit with SAW 1.5" rears installed on Tuesday. Along with that, I'll be adding the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70/17s in E range. Happy to be making progress. I'll definitely post up some pics here when it's done. I'll try to upload some before measurements, pics, etc., in my "build" thread this weekend in case anyone is interested. Everyone here helped me a lot in making decision on what to go with. So, I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product. Now, on to deciding about sliders...

Thats great news about your lift! I know you will like it a lot... I'm local, let me know if you want to see my MT's sliders in person.

 

[InspectahDeck]

Got the lift installed not too long ago with the Toytec TRD kit and SAW 1.5" springs swapped. Added 285/70r17 Ridge Grapplers. Still have most of the rake. Hoping it will settle some and adding the Gobi Rack and ladder next week will expedite that. Anyway, here's some pics.

You can see measurements, more details, in my build thread.

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[InspectahDeck]

Had a chance to get out on some fire roads today. First time since the lift. I have to say that while the kit and tires definitely stiffened up the ride around town and this is noticeably harsher over small bumps in town, it really soaked up all the water bars on the fire roads and felt much more like the caddy ride described previously.

It actually felt a lot better on these roads than the 13 Trail Teams FJ we traded for it. I'm quite pleased with the performance.

Also, I couldn't detect any rub on the fire roads with the 285s and this lift. I know that the shop that did the install did trim a little of the front bumper, but I think that was all.

 

[TxPunisher]

Got the lift installed not too long ago with the Toytec TRD kit and SAW 1.5" springs swapped. Added 285/70r17 Ridge Grapplers. Still have most of the rake. Hoping it will settle some and adding the Gobi Rack and ladder next week will expedite that. Anyway, here's some pics.

You can see measurements, more details, in my build thread.

This may be a dumb question but what advantage do you get by swapping out the toytec kit springs for the SAW 1.5" springs? Also how are you liking those Ridge Grapplers? Any rubbing with the 285s?

 

[InspectahDeck]

This may be a dumb question but what advantage do you get by swapping out the toytec kit springs for the SAW 1.5" springs? Also how are you liking those Ridge Grapplers? Any rubbing with the 285s?

They are a touch stiffer than the super flex 2.0s that come with the kit (I think 10% v 12% was referenced earlier in this thread). The main reason to go with them though is the superflex 2.0s give 2" of lift, while the Sway-A-Ways (SAW) are intended to give only 1.5". As many members in thread have reported, however, they are still getting ~2" of lift with the SAWs. All this was done in an attempt to minimize the factory rake. Even saving a .5" appealed to many the thread, even though it's not much and most are still seeing 2" of lift in the rear anyway.

So far no rubbing with the Nittos. Love the look of the Nittos. Time will tell on wear. Some members have suggested superior quality control and manufacturing versus the BFGs I was looking at originally. Had the truck on fire roads for the first time and no rubbing there that I can tell either. The shop that did the install also did some trimming.