Tre9er's (probably) very modest build thread PIC INTENSIVE

I simply wanted to say that I cried a little when I saw how clean this one is compared to my silver 2002 4Runner that I just bought from a private party. The guy kept up on regular maintenance but definitely did not take care of the truck like it deserved. I didn't think it would bother me, as it's still one of the cleanest 12-year old 4Runners on the road where I live, but I'm peeved nevertheless. <sigh>

:hurt:

Oh and congrats, she looks beaut.
 
01thunder said:
will you email me pics of where and how you did yours? i am looking at getting a cooler from a ford that's pretty nice size and has factory brackets already on it.
which side is the pressure line?
Click to expand...

I will try to take more pics tonight. The sender is in the front of the tranny, so trace it from there. I put the sender on the bottom of the cooler as others have recommended, though I've seen guys do it both ways. The lines run through with the condenser lines and I just put some split tranny tubing around that opening, then zip-tied the tranny lines to the condenser lines to keep them centered and not touching the edges anyway. I also zip-tied them to a condenser line sort of in front of the pulleys, as you can kinda see in one of the pics above. For mounting I just used the zip-ties provided, that go thru the radiator and condenser. For brackets you'd have a few options, such as horn mounting location, hood latch, and some lower holes in the cross member, etc.
 
Update:

The runner is officially "mine" now! Wife was driving it mostly and thus mods were going to be hard to sell her on, but now I got her a 98 Forester and she loves it, so it's time to work on the T4R.

Most of the Tundra 13WL parts are on order, then on to bushings and ball joints, tie rods, etc! One day there will be a lift, I swear it! The Gods demand it!!!

Update II: I should have all the TBU parts in by Friday (7/11/14). We'll see what the wife has planned for us this weekend, but perhaps I can start the brakes Fri night while she's at work and finish them up Saturday AM so as not to interfere with the weekend.

I wish OEM LBJs weren't so damned expensive that I can't afford to do them at the same time :( I really want to get that and some bushings knocked out, too.
 
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OK well I decided while I'm under there and the weather is nice, it makes sense to do the LBJs. I took the plunge and ordered OEMs from CamelBack Toyota with free shipping. Also ordered 4 each of the spec'd bolts (gold and green) just to be on the safe side. I'll clean these posts up with install stuff to keep the thread purty.

I was thinking I'd do bushings or something else relatively inexpensive while I'm at it, but I'm not sure what else would be a good idea at this point. Sway bar bushings look pretty shot at the top of the end links, but then again I know half of you don't even run front sways anyway. Thought about OTREs but not sure I can afford those right now. Don't think I have any play in the steering anyway, mostly just brake-shake.

Future plans include a 96-98 bumper/valance/grille. I HATE the fat-lip bumper. Also a lift is in my future at some point. Have RC rear shocks that have been in the garage for a year, just need to decide if I'm going OME or LC springs, then save for bilsteins in the front. Oh, and blazer bump stops. I have a roof rack and need to check garage clearance, too :D
 
tre9er said:
OK well I decided while I'm under there and the weather is nice, it makes sense to do the LBJs. I took the plunge and ordered OEMs from CamelBack Toyota with free shipping. Also ordered 4 each of the spec'd bolts (gold and green) just to be on the safe side. I'll clean these posts up with install stuff to keep the thread purty.

I was thinking I'd do bushings or something else relatively inexpensive while I'm at it, but I'm not sure what else would be a good idea at this point. Sway bar bushings look pretty shot at the top of the end links, but then again I know half of you don't even run front sways anyway. Thought about OTREs but not sure I can afford those right now. Don't think I have any play in the steering anyway, mostly just brake-shake.

Future plans include a 96-98 bumper/valance/grille. I HATE the fat-lip bumper. Also a lift is in my future at some point. Have RC rear shocks that have been in the garage for a year, just need to decide if I'm going OME or LC springs, then save for bilsteins in the front. Oh, and blazer bump stops. I have a roof rack and need to check garage clearance, too :D
Click to expand...

I noticed early on in your build thread that you do not like the traction controls controlling your throttle. Have you looked into the AndyMod?
 
Brian757 said:
I noticed early on in your build thread that you do not like the traction controls controlling your throttle. Have you looked into the AndyMod?
Click to expand...

Yeah, crap, I keep forgetting that one. I do want to disable all that crap at times, like mud and snow during slow-speed driving conditions, mostly. I had it all researched at one point and was ready to do it, then IDK what happened.

Update: Have a "Trac Off" momentary switch from an 02 Lexus ES300 on order, should be here in a few days. Going to get a relay and do the VSC disable (Andymod 2.0) with the Trac Off switch so it resets after the engine is shut down, without having to also flip a switch back to "off".
[MENTION=68576]Brian757[/MENTION] it is done (see below)
 
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Brake porn


So I have the wearever pads and rotors, but I also ordered the Callahans. Does anyone know if there is significant difference between the two? The wearever pads are gold ceramic and the Callahans are ceramic as well.

Edit: after comparing the two I decided there was no appreciable difference, in fact, they very well may be the same parts with different labels.
 
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I'll post some pics of the callahan rotors and pads here in a few. The pads are chamfered...not really a big deal to me, but if you already have non ones, you may want to use them.

The rotors are nice, pretty clean casting. Happy with them for the price!
 
Here ya go.

Pads...have the rubber shim already in the back so no need for the extra shims

Rotors. Like I said, good casting, seem like really good quality.

 
Well, I said screw it. I think the Callahan and wearever rotors are damn near the same thing anyway.

So it begins


Old rotor


Marking dust shield


Screw the dremel. Angle grinder was wayyy easier


Cut and grinded


All in all the driver side went pretty smooth...until I realized I had the passenger caliper on the driver side :ybrick:

Fixed that and reconnected brake line after donating some skin to the fluid gods.

Tomorrow passenger side and bleeding.

Wanted to put a new section in for the OEM rubber brake line, but nobody locally had the SS braided lines...
 
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Millerad1651 said:
I'm not sure of anyone who sells them locally. You'll probably have to order some and do them later. Speedy used these...
Performance Front Brake Line Set

And ya, the Wearever and Callahan rotors look exactly the same.
Click to expand...

Figured as much. Oh well I guess I will get really good at bleeding brakes.

Anyway, had surface rust on calipers already this AM. Thought they looked coated in some way but guess not. So I'm painting them and the rotor fronts.
 
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Nothing like a 2hr job turning in to a two day job! At least you'll be good to go when they are dry. I just finished cleaning my calipers and painting them up. Hopefully by mid next week I'll be able to stop without the steering wheel shaking my entire body.
 
Bled the brakes but didn't have the key on. Also wasn't holding pedal down while my son tightened the bleeder. I had my neighbor come over and help run the pedal and also did the backs although they didn't have much air in them. Pedal is much firmer now, but still not where I want it. Probably go back and rebleed the fronts.
 
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First check that the master cylinder is full. You may want to bleed all the brakes...could have air in lines heading to the back brakes. Start with passenger rear, then driver rear. Then go to passenger front, then driver front.

If you read Speedy's install thread, he does a good job explaining the bleed process.
 
Bedded-in the brakes today. That went well once I found a suitable stretch of road and let enough people around me so I didn't cause an accident constantly jamming on my brakes. Then the gods smiled on me and I was able to drive ten minutes without touching the brakes to let them cool down, including a light on the country road I was on. Pedal still needs to be firmer IMO. Will probably re-bleed the fronts. Didn't go back and rebleed them after doing front then rear.
 
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Installed and tested this baby tonight:



Couldn't be happier. OEM Toyota Trac Off switch that, you know, turns VSC and Trac off.

Some wire, a relay from autozone (BWD R3074), and some connectors and voila. I highly recommend this if you've ever been nearly t-boned trying to make a turn or pull out in the snow. Or if you wanna play in the mud and do donuts :D
 
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