Treating Your Rust

What is normal amount of rust?

I purchased my first 4Runner a couple weeks ago. 2001 Limited Toyota 4Runner. How do I know what a normal amount of rust is and how much I should be worried about?
 
Bobby,

A few things...

First, welcome to the board. Pictures always help when you want people to make judgments and opinions of your truck. So if you want us to look at the amount of rust on the truck you just bought, then post up some undercarriage pictures.

Second, you have a 3rd generation 4Runner. There is a section specifically for 3rd gen questions and tech talk. While we could certainly answer your rust questions, you will see that you will get much different answers from each of the groups of owners in the different forums.

Third, you posted on a semi-related thread that was over a year old. You may want to make an introduction thread of your own in the 3rd gen section with pictures and specs of your new 4Runner.

R
 
I need to take care of some rust before winter, mainly the front frame.

I was thinking por15. Would rust converter be better?
 
Rust converter is a temporary solution, typically converting the iron oxide to iron phosphate. This will be an effective stop gap, until moisture penetrates the layer and begins the process again. If you convert, hit it with por15 afterwards, with a very thin first coat as por15 will allow bubbles out. The second coat can go a bit thicker, and cover the holes that the bubbles in the first coat leave behind. This is the best barrier (though of course there are other products that have similar claims) that I have personally used.

Por15 adheres to both iron oxide and iron phosphate very well, as well as sand blasted metal after a light sand with 180 grit.
 
Just tried the POR15 on my 2006 runner , which honestly the rust was not that bad on for northern Indiana. The front end was the worst with the skid plates showing the most rust. I debated about just tossing the skid plates and buying something new, but figured if try the POR15 first and see. I imagine the skid plate will see the most abuse this winter.

I wheeled off the rust on the frame and skid plate and used a degreaser and metal prep before I applied the POR15. It went on fairly well and we will see how it holds up this winter. I also top coated the skid plate with POR15 frame paint as they advised some form of top coat due to UV breakdown. Better safe than sorry I guess.

What I noticed on my frame was the worst areas were the weld marks and the paint flaked off very easily. The hitch was also very rusty, but under the spare tires was not bad at all.

I may try some of the fluid film on the internal sections before the snow starts flying.

Looking at some of the pics here I guess I was fortunate to be able to inspect the frame before buying.
 
What about areas like steering components, can it be applied there also?


Skinfaxi said:
Problem is it doesn't stick to rust-free metal, it will flake off. It's designed to chemically bond to rust, which is why it's awesome for already rusted areas, but not for already clean frames. I painted some preventatively on my BMW and it came off after about 2 years.

I primarily use Fluid Film because you can see through it and know exactly what's going on with the metal. Painting over it is an out of sight out of mind approach. Just because you can't see the rust anymore doesn't mean it's not still spreading. And if it does start spreading, you now need to grind off tough as nails paint to fix it again. POR 15 will stop rust in its tracks, but good luck being confident the inside of your frame rails aren't heinous. With FF, it's dirt cheap to coat everything, everywhere, inside and out, multiple times a year. Takes about an hour with a spray gun. One gallon will get you 4 complete applications. If rust starts anywhere, spot treat it with POR, but I wouldn't paint the whole thing in POR and forget about it. It will be a nightmare to correct anything down the road.
Click to expand...
 
I like rust mort for my commercial/industrial applications. Under a toy, you have to be careful as it is caustic. I would use it first, paint, and then Fluid film. Fluid film is new to me, but my research has shown its used in industry, and has been for years. I was talking about it this weekend, and a friend told me, that NASA uses it, so I figure it must be pretty well thought of, by the rocket scientists.

For some of the rust I see on eastern toys, I would consider grinding out the old rust, rust mort around the area, and welding on plates.

It not cheap, but it works great. http://www.amazon.com/SEM-69501-Rus...UTF8&qid=1444660265&sr=8-3&keywords=rust+mort

Of course the best plan would be move west, buy a new rust free toy, and Fluid film it...:)

PS: your project is looking good...most people do not pay any attention to the rust underneath until they have a frame failure.
 
Last edited:
BobbyC4Runner said:
I purchased my first 4Runner a couple weeks ago. 2001 Limited Toyota 4Runner. How do I know what a normal amount of rust is and how much I should be worried about?
Click to expand...

Worry about it now, and you won't later.

Show a pic, so we can see the rust and let you know if it is critical, or just in need of early control.
 
Last edited:
willbgood said:
I like rust mort for my commercial/industrial applications. Under a toy, you have to be careful as it is caustic. I would use it first, paint, and then Fluid film. Fluid film is new to me, but my research has shown its used in industry, and has been for years. I was talking about it this weekend, and a friend told me, that NASA uses it, so I figure it must be pretty well thought of, by the rocket scientists.

For some of the rust I see on eastern toys, I would consider grinding out the old rust, rust mort around the area, and welding on plates.

It not cheap, but it works great. http://www.amazon.com/SEM-69501-Rus...UTF8&qid=1444660265&sr=8-3&keywords=rust+mort

Of course the best plan would be move west, buy a new rust free toy, and Fluid film it...:)

PS: your project is looking good...most people do not pay any attention to the rust underneath until they have a frame failure.
Click to expand...


so do you recommend using this, then applying POR15 on top?

living in the northeast, I expect to have my underside completely salted this winter.

somehow the previous owner did a decent job with keeping rust at bed. he must have went to the carwash twice a week.
 
rick1987 said:
so do you recommend using this, then applying POR15 on top?

living in the northeast, I expect to have my underside completely salted this winter.

somehow the previous owner did a decent job with keeping rust at bed. he must have went to the carwash twice a week.
Click to expand...

Yes, and FF on top of it all. It will a dirty job, but saving the underside is worth it.

Waxing and cleaning your car, and ignoring the underside, is like a women who gets a tit job, but doesn't Kegal...what's the point?

The same goes for handling the underside, but ignoring the inner spaces of the frame, doors, and any other space expose to moisture on a regular basis...your frame with just rust inside out, hence my recommendation FF.
 
Last edited:
willbgood said:
Yes, and FF on top of it all. It will a dirty job, but saving the underside is worth it.

Waxing and cleaning your car, and ignoring the underside, is like a women who gets a tit job, but doesn't Kegal...what's the point?

The same goes for handling the underside, but ignoring the inner spaces of the frame, doors, and any other space expose to moisture on a regular basis...your frame with just rust inside out, hence my recommendation FF.
Click to expand...

awesome! This is something I have to do within the next month.

Ill start ordering supplies.

how much do you think it will take to do the frame and other pieces underneath? a gallon of each?
 
rick1987 said:
awesome! This is something I have to do within the next month.

Ill start ordering supplies.

how much do you think it will take to do the frame and other pieces underneath? a gallon of each?
Click to expand...

Post a pic, and I can tell you, but you are probably pretty close with a gallon. Rust more only has to applied to the actually rusty areas, not any where there is paint. You should wire wheel and sand before application. Rust mort lasts forever as it is basically a mild acid, so even if you have extra, it won't go bad.

The POR 15, a gallon will do it for sure, and likelt with left over, that will not last more than year or less, once expose to air. If I remember right. a gallon does 250 square feet, but remember you are going to be on you back painting, so you will have waste.

Amazon has a Fluid Film gallon kit, with applicator, or you can go direct to site, (I think they are about the same price, but amazon prime ships in two days, free, )that will definitely do your whole car, including inside the doors and kicks. Amazon also has rust mort, and I would guess Por 15, so again with amazon prime, free shipping.
 
Vols77 said:
What about areas like steering components, can it be applied there also?
Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay. Yes, dump it on everything but your brake rotors. The beauty is you can just hook it up to an air-powered spray gun and blast away. Quick & easy.

And to clarify some above posts, Por-15 should go on first, then FF on top. And I recommend getting the smaller 6-packs of POR-15, unless you're doing your entire frame at one time (which is a PITA and not worth it, IMO.) Just treat the bad areas with POR and dump FF all over everything. I recommend the 6-packs of POR over the gallons, because once you re-seal a POR can, you're not getting it open again. Stick with the smaller ones and use a whole can at a time.
 
Last edited:
Would typically a body shop do this ? Lots of surface rust on my 4runner. would be nice to have this be done on a lift, doing this on jackstands is just not possible for me.
 
 
Last edited:
So I have the Mort stuff and 6 pack of por15 coming Monday.

I figure I'll order the FF after, as I think it will take a couple weekends to do the underside.
 
Skinfaxi said:
I use FF on my 3rd gen. I have the hose with both the straight-shot nozzle and the 360 degree sprayer for inside the frame rails. Never had to use anything else.
Click to expand...

I'm going to apply FF to my truck this weekend. Do you take care in certain areas or basically just spray away?

It mentions to perhaps not spray rubber, anybody encounter problems spraying electrical wires or anything like that?

I did the Eastwood internal frame coating, but I'll probably FF the interior of the frame as well for extra protection.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 331 (members: 0, guests: 331)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top