Truck wont start after brush wire swap

rewind206

New member
My 4runner was running fine, 1990 v6 3.0. I noticed the brake light and battery light had come on, and was having a few power issues, (my cigarette lighter has an mp3 fm transmitter, and when I turned the turn signal on it would reset.)

Anyway I bought new brush wires, did the swap, and put everything back together. I had to buy a new diode plate but other than that, no real issues, connected the wires to the distributor cap back in the proper order, etc.

Now when I try to start it, it tries and tries to start, but won't turn over. I added an extra gallon of gas just to make sure that wasn't the issue. I'm just trying to figure out how pulling and replacing the same alternator, just with different brush wires, could cause my vehicle to now not turn over.

Any help would be appreciated, its my only car and I'm desperate. Let me know any other information that would help. Thanks in advance I'm praying someone has some insight.
 
Register to hide this ad
Are you sure the wires are put back correctly? Did you maybe blow a fuse or two when you were pulling or installing the alternator?

If the wires and fuses all check out, look for spark. If your spark is good, pull a plug or two and smell for gas. If you have blue spark and and wet spark plugs, then you've lost timing or compression.

But my money is on something you touched while replacing the alternator, spark plug wires or a blown fuse or something.
 
Are you sure the wires are put back correctly? Did you maybe blow a fuse or two when you were pulling or installing the alternator?

If the wires and fuses all check out, look for spark. If your spark is good, pull a plug or two and smell for gas. If you have blue spark and and wet spark plugs, then you've lost timing or compression.

But my money is on something you touched while replacing the alternator, spark plug wires or a blown fuse or something.

I did go over the wire placement and according to the diagram I found, I did get them on correctly. (1,3,5 front to back on passenger side, 2,4,6 on drivers, and the distributor cap is labelled, coil was easy to spot of course.)

someone is helping me through pms as well, and came to the same conclusion. AT one point when I was reconnecting everything, I forgot to d/c the battery, and the red wire on the alternator touched metal and sparked.

I pulled the 80A, 40A, and 30A fuses to have them checked, the EFI smaller one looks fine, but should I have it checked as well? Any other fuses I might be missing? Thanks so much for the reply.
 
Last edited:
I checked all the fuses, even replaced the 80a just to be sure, and none of them were bad. I did find out I'm not getting spark by testing a wire on the engine block and having my girlfriend crank it over. If anyone has any further advice on how to proceed please chime in, its really bad timing for me and I need my car asap.
 
another note, I heard a clicking noise near the fuse box when she was cranking it over, would it be possible that its not a fuse but the fusible link part that blew and is causing it to not spark?
 
Are you sure the wires are put back correctly? Did you maybe blow a fuse or two when you were pulling or installing the alternator?

If the wires and fuses all check out, look for spark. If your spark is good, pull a plug or two and smell for gas. If you have blue spark and and wet spark plugs, then you've lost timing or compression.

But my money is on something you touched while replacing the alternator, spark plug wires or a blown fuse or something.

Def not showing spark, and I tried starter fluid and checked for gas, both fine. So I'm not getting spark, fuses and wires seem fine, unless the fusible link or wiring can be blown or damaged I'm not sure what else would affect spark, considering the work I did..
 
13249_10151505291942885_400162214_n.jpg


on this plug I get no reading from the male end, and I get a light from my tester on only one side of the female end. What exactly is this?
 
Not a 3.0 guy and I don't know where your fusible link is, but that's where I'd look next. No spark after shorting out the alternator cable pretty much has to be bad wiring or a fuse.

Does the plug you pictured go to feed your coil?
 
SOLVED: Thanks to some help from nissanh, I figured out that I had taken the distributor completely out instead of just taking the rotor off to do the job. He helped me line everything up, get my TDC in place, and now its up and running. Just have to do the timing and a few adjustments and I'm golden. Thanks so much everyone!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top