Trunk won't open

[rav1974]

Yesterday I started messing around with the back door to test fit a rearview camera. I removed the trim off the back door and drilled a couple new holes to secure the bottom a license plate as well. After wards i reinstalled all pieces and now I can't open the trunk. Everything else in the truck works exactly as expected. Any suggestions? Is there a manual trunk release?

 

[Kmvreter]

I've never heard or seen anything about a manual release. It is an electric lock so I'm thinking a connection has come loose (when you were messing around) or you blew a fuse. Check the fuses first. Not sure how to get in behind the trim if the door is closed.
Good luck.

 

[rav1974]

Figured it out. Thanks Kmvreter. I checked the fuses after I couldn't figure a mechanical way out. It wasn't blown, but after I removed it and replaced it everything must have reset. It works perfect now. Anyways the fuse is 38. The 15 amp fuse for reaer window wiper.

 

[dingo]

Hey rav,

Quick question - did you notice if there was an internal panel/compartment that separates the license plate screw/hole compartment from the rear glass compartment (when rolled all the way down)? In other words, is there some sort of stop that would prevent a longer screw from interfering with the rear window's downward travel/path? The reason I ask is because I want to use some metric anti-theft screws but they are too long. They are about 1.5 inches long and I want to grind them down, but don't want them too long that they would hit/scratch the glass when I roll it down or so short that I don't have enough thread for a secure hold. I know, sounds a little crazy. Thanks in advance.

 

[Kmvreter]

rav1974,
Glad it worked out for you. That looks like it would have been a real pain otherwise.

I want to use some metric anti-theft screws but they are too long. They are about 1.5 inches long and I want to grind them down, but don't want them too long...

dingo,
Here's a hint: Take out one of the current bolts and cut your new ones to the same length.
Another hint: Thread a nut on the bolt before cutting. Cut the bolt. Then as you remove the nut it will clean up the thread.

 

[Uneek]

Hey rav,

Quick question - did you notice if there was an internal panel/compartment that separates the license plate screw/hole compartment from the rear glass compartment (when rolled all the way down)? In other words, is there some sort of stop that would prevent a longer screw from interfering with the rear window's downward travel/path? The reason I ask is because I want to use some metric anti-theft screws but they are too long. They are about 1.5 inches long and I want to grind them down, but don't want them too long that they would hit/scratch the glass when I roll it down or so short that I don't have enough thread for a secure hold. I know, sounds a little crazy. Thanks in advance.

There should be no stopper to prevent a longer screw from being used (see link below). If too long of a screw is used, it'll damage the rear glass.

Here's the specifications for the screws posted by toto on another thread.

 

[dingo]

Thanks for the tips, kmvreter. Yeah, I thought about just sizing it up with the old bolts after I posted, and I was like "duh, I should have done that first anyway". One of my senior moments. Good idea with cleaning the thread up with the nut, I'll do just that.

Uneek, thanks for the link! Good to know the the actual bolt specs.

 

[bolts221]

Figured it out. Thanks Kmvreter. I checked the fuses after I couldn't figure a mechanical way out. It wasn't blown, but after I removed it and replaced it everything must have reset. It works perfect now. Anyways the fuse is 38. The 15 amp fuse for reaer window wiper.

Tried this, but the trunk wouldn't open for me. I ended up disconnecting the battery and reconnecting and was finally able to open the trunk.