Tundra/LC Lift Checklist - Before I Order Everything..

Understood. So with the LC 8 wraps, should around 3" lower be good? Or more?

I might not fully understand this and please correct me if i am wrong. Shouldn't the bumpstop be lowered based on the compressed length of your new shock, not the lift height of the new springs being installed. Stock shocks compress to 12.4", tundra 5100 compress to 13.8". So the bumpstop should be lowered about 1.5" to keep the longer shock from fully compressing. If the bumpstop is lowered three inches aren't you losing about 1.5" of uptravel?
 
I might not fully understand this and please correct me if i am wrong. Shouldn't the bumpstop be lowered based on the compressed length of your new shock, not the lift height of the new springs being installed. Stock shocks compress to 12.4", tundra 5100 compress to 13.8". So the bumpstop should be lowered about 1.5" to keep the longer shock from fully compressing. If the bumpstop is lowered three inches aren't you losing about 1.5" of uptravel?

Actually that makes more sense to me. I still don't really know how to calculate how far to lower these things though.

I just need to tell my buddy (who works at a steel mill) what size square tube to bring me! If anyone could confirm the distance for sure, that'd be awesome. I don't want to blow out the new ones!

The stocks I'm installing are Bilstein 24-100144, which have the following specs:
Collapsed Length (IN): 13.84
Extended Length (IN): 22.4
Travel Length (IN): 8.56

And the ones I'm coming from are: KYB Monomax KYB-565002
Compressed Length (IN): 12.99in
Extended Length (IN): 20.24in
Stroke (IN): 7.24in

I honestly don't know now. Do the bumpstops primarily keep the shock from extending all the way out, or compressing all the way down, or both? I'm willing to bet they basically keep it from jamming either way, providing more of a soft landing spot before they flex / compress totally?

So...back to the original question of how much to actually lower these things?
 
I ordered a set on Amazon, from a 3rd party , on 10/14/14 and they emailed me and said they were out of stock and would be shipped from manufacturer when available. I almost canceled b/c they said it may be late december before they were shipped.

Mine were delivered on 11/6/14.
 
Actually that makes more sense to me. I still don't really know how to calculate how far to lower these things though.

I just need to tell my buddy (who works at a steel mill) what size square tube to bring me! If anyone could confirm the distance for sure, that'd be awesome. I don't want to blow out the new ones!

The stocks I'm installing are Bilstein 24-100144, which have the following specs:
Collapsed Length (IN): 13.84
Extended Length (IN): 22.4
Travel Length (IN): 8.56

And the ones I'm coming from are: KYB Monomax KYB-565002
Compressed Length (IN): 12.99in
Extended Length (IN): 20.24in
Stroke (IN): 7.24in

I honestly don't know now. Do the bumpstops primarily keep the shock from extending all the way out, or compressing all the way down, or both? I'm willing to bet they basically keep it from jamming either way, providing more of a soft landing spot before they flex / compress totally?

So...back to the original question of how much to actually lower these things?

Okay so when the shock fully extends it just stops. No damage. When it over compress's the shock blows out. When I say lower them over 3"s this is for lc shocks or longer bilsteins. It also stops larger tires stuffing to much. This info is from Steve at sonoran steel which has tested out shock travel and said it's first people's mistake when adding 7 wrap coils. He even sells them for a reason.
 
Im looking into doing this lift. I figured I could tag onto this instead of starting another.

Bilstein 33-187174 is a 5100 series shock that I feel would work with the rear lift, and wonder why I dont see them used.

They are fj cruiser 5100s
Specs are
Collapsed Length (IN): 14.91
Extended Length (IN): 23.5
Travel Length (IN): 8.59
Lower Mount: Eye 19.1mm
Upper Mount: Stem

With the tundra rear shocks I remember reading you have to swap out the lower bushong?
 
Okay so when the shock fully extends it just stops. No damage. When it over compress's the shock blows out. When I say lower them over 3"s this is for lc shocks or longer bilsteins. It also stops larger tires stuffing to much. This info is from Steve at sonoran steel which has tested out shock travel and said it's first people's mistake when adding 7 wrap coils. He even sells them for a reason.

Aaaand now I know why my driver rear 5100 is blown after just 18 months.

Time to go junk yard some s-series bumps. Damn.
 
Im looking into doing this lift. I figured I could tag onto this instead of starting another.

Bilstein 33-187174 is a 5100 series shock that I feel would work with the rear lift, and wonder why I dont see them used.

They are fj cruiser 5100s
Specs are
Collapsed Length (IN): 14.91
Extended Length (IN): 23.5
Travel Length (IN): 8.59
Lower Mount: Eye 19.1mm
Upper Mount: Stem

With the tundra rear shocks I remember reading you have to swap out the lower bushong?

Yeah, I think the original is 0.5" and you have to swap it for a 0.75". No big deal..bushings were like $5 on Amazon. The FJ shocks are stud-stud, whereas the stock 4runner and Tundra are eye/stud.

I already ordered the Tundra shocks, but the FJ ones seem like they'd flex a bit more.

I'm going to try and lower my bumpstop 3" to accommodate the new shocks and lift.
 
FJ80, to be specific which FJ we're talking about, is stud/stud in front and stud/eye in the rear.
 
If your getting rear fj cruiser 1st gen 5100 then you don't need to swap anything. It bolts right on. I know, I have it.
 
Last edited:
If your getting rear fj cruiser 1st gen 5100 then you don't need to swap anything. It bolts right on. I know, I have it.

Would you recommend going with this shock:
Bilstein 33-187174

Over the Tundra Bilstein: BIL-24100144 ?

I have already placed the order, but it hasn't shipped out yet so there's a possibility I could change it. Please let me know asap! I will be running LC 8-wraps in the rear.
 

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