Turn key absolutely nothing happens. tranded waiting for tow truck.

Update - Fixed


Well this no start and even stalling on the freeway problem persisted for months. Stalled out on the freeway several times. Stalled while sitting at a stoplight several times. Really was a nightmare. Turns out it had nothing to do with the relay at all or the harness or wiring or anything like that.

So I took it over to a local mechanic to have new rotors and pads put on. I parked the truck gave him a key but told him that if it would not start he would have to pop the hood and tap on the EFI relay. He looked at me like I was crazy. I told him what had been going on and he said he would like that too. I came back after a couple hours and the job was done. He also handed me a little white I think 10-amp amp standard plug-in fuse that hat corrosion on both legs. It hadnot popped it just looked like it had seen better days. He said he replaced it no charge and thinks that might be my problem. Well, that was a month ago and since that time I have not had one issue. That was 100% for sure the problem. Simple $0.05 fuse. I really don't even know which one it was to be honest. It was one of the fuses inside the same fuse box where the EFI relay is housed.

i was about to comment to change the fuses, i had replaced my whole engine and got the same thing no start, noise, click, nada. took me two days and i even called someone out to diagnose. said it was the ECU. my friend happen to come over that night started messing with the fuses, noticed the ECU one was a little corrodded, swapped it out and boom turned on like a charm. so even those little tiny fuses can cause issues if their dirty.
 
Thanks!

But is that even a fuse? It doesn't show any amp value.

It's a jumper, makes a connection, not designed to blow. The Deoxit linked above is supposed to be good stuff, vintage electronics guys love it, or just clean anything suspect with steel wool and coat with dielectric grease on a qtip
 
Stranded. So my 2003 4Runner V6 wont turn over. Put the key in the ignition on the lights come on everything is perfectly normal turn the key absolutely nothing happens nothing.


My 2 cents FWIW since these same exact symptoms happened to me recently. Turned the key and everything looked normal but crickets. OP said his battery was fine, maybe so. My truck would start with a jump but die immediately until I finally thought to give it some gas right at startup. That kept it running long enough to drive home. Long story short, alternator was bad and the battery tested so low that the dealer checked to be sure their tester was working right. New alt and battery fixed the problem.
 
Obviously, electrical problems can be abundant, but good info here. Thanks to all who contributed.
 
the short pin for the fuse box is a good place to remove for any work done to the truck that needs the battery disconnected, if you know what your doing, you don't need to disconnect the battery, but also verify that the short pin fuse really disconnect the power. I think you still get power to alternator and starter.

when replacing the starter and alternator, its good practice to remove the battery from the truck, you'll get more room and know that you don't have power to the truck.

anyone want to remove the short pin to verify? i got too much electronics to program again. at least my radio save my eq settings.
 
Blackmax, I am your toyota 4runner owner doppelgänger

1999 4runner 165K

IT WAS SPOOKY how much I went to the very same serios events you. the only exceptions:
-never died on me while driving
- started keeping truck running and locked when i had to use it for home depot, etc (kept a spare with me to unlock).

Day b4 yesterday, father was forced to use the spare truck to pick up lumber, etc. stopped on him twice. I revisited this &$%@$#% issue online again and came across your post.

yesterday morning, replaced ALL (may as well) fuses in hood relay box. none were popped but all had pretty worn terminals (believe these were all original fuses, btw). While i replaced all, i suspect the problems ones were the efi and/or obd fuses...but like i said i went ahead and replaced all 15 or so

SO FAR...(and I ran it all day yesterday running errands)...NO ISSUES!

Keeping fingers crossed. Have set self-reminder to update this thread in a month (truck previously never went a month, let alone a week without not starting on me.
 
Blackmax, I am your toyota 4runner owner doppelgänger
1999 4runner 165K

IT WAS SPOOKY how much I went to the very same serios events you. the only exceptions:
-never died on me while driving
- started keeping truck running and locked when i had to use it for home depot, etc (kept a spare with me to unlock).

Day b4 yesterday, father was forced to use the spare truck to pick up lumber, etc. stopped on him twice. I revisited this &$%@$#% issue online again and came across your post.

yesterday morning, replaced ALL (may as well) fuses in hood relay box. none were popped but all had pretty worn terminals (believe these were all original fuses, btw). While i replaced all, i suspect the problems ones were the efi and/or obd fuses...but like i said i went ahead and replaced all 15 or so

SO FAR...(and I ran it all day yesterday running errands)...NO ISSUES!

Keeping fingers crossed. Have set self-reminder to update this thread in a month (truck previously never went a month, let alone a week without not starting on me.
 
I use this on my fuse and relay legs: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-D...ywords=deoxit&qid=1567600440&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Bought it after reading a long thread here about the transmission electrical connector pins corroding and breaking in place causing shifting harshness. I pulled every fuse and relay, sprayed them down and let it dry, then reinstalled.

I will give this a shot.....sigh. Hope it works, am ready to take this truck out to pasture at this point
 
If it's not dying then you probably just have worn starter contacts. I'd suggest downloading or buying a digital copy of the FSM for your truck and working through the problem tree in it, you'll need a basic multimeter.
 
I'm having same problem on my 03 SR5.New battery and starter. No power to the starter solenoid. Checked the starter relay its good. Tried a new one anyway and still no crank.I checked the pins on the ecm and found 5.6v on the two pins from the range selector switch(neutral start). Manual says I should have 9-14v in P or N and 0-3 in any other gear. I have 5.6v in any gear. Does this mean the switch is done?
 

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