Ultimate camping mod- rear window up / down and hatch pop with ignition off!

[spetka]

Thank you everyone for the interest!

To address On Point's concern:

I am not a business- I am a car enthusiast working out of his cramped garage to build up a few of these kits. This whole thing started after I wanted my 4R to have a certain function that it didn't from the factory. I had to do a bulk buy on wire and terminals plus I purchased a much better soldering iron than I already had to solder to the momentary switch. I was proud and figured it was a cool feature so people would possibly be interested.

I must say, I feel it is entitled to think that everything should be free. It takes roughly 20 minutes to build one of these up with electrical test (I do 100% electrical continuity with my Fluke multimeter). Add in shipping, paypal fees, the two switches, bulk wire, terminals, heat shrink along with the hours it took to figure this out on both a 4th and 5th gen plus write up instructions and you'll see I am not making a killing on these.

I am doing this as a fun little hobby to pay for random mods on my 4Runner. So far, I used the profits from the run of 4th gen parts to buy a HiLift and to do the rear diff mod. Next up, I want to get some 80/20 aluminum and build a roof rack.


OK now that that rant is over, regarding the pet proof switch- I do include a few extra feet of wire so you can relocate this around if you'd like, and I am happy to include a few additional feet in there as well. The recessed switch is a good idea, but i think the best option would be to go with a Mil Spec switch. In a past life, I was a sales engineer for an aerospace electronics company. We manufactured switches that had very high engagement forces that were used on the joystick of aircraft for fire controls.

These switches are not cheap in the least bit- roughly $30 each. I would be happy to incorporate one of these into the build and feel they would easily be pet proof. If anyone has any other switch ideas, please feel free to share.

I'd want something that could lock. Similar to a power tool like a table saw where you can keep kids etc from turning it on. Though ina vehicle you may/will lose that little pull out plastic "key", so maybe something like this would be good to keep pets (or sleeping people, or rather sleeping until they fall out) from bumping it
https://spemco.com/v1d2sw0b-aze00-0-carling-locking-rocker-on-off-orange-safety-lock/

 

[MeefZah]

I think it's awesome, and will be ordering.

 

[MeefZah]

^

I ordered right after I posted the above, 1.5 days later I got the kit from the OP (we are both in Calif though, but that's fast shipping).

Installed it right after I got it, went okay, and the OP was immediately responsive to any questions I had. Works great and I'm quite pleased.

You can debate the cost-effectiveness of it all day long but in the end, I got a mod I've wanted for a while, didn't spend a ton on it, got to tinker on my truck, and got to support a forum member in the process. That's a win-win-win-win!

 

[JPOVS]

I am interested in this product. Curious, how much of the side panel did you have to remove? Just pry back the top half? Or is it possible to mount the controls on the hatch?
The reason I’m asking is that my storage box is bolted to the floor and I would have to disassemble it to unbolt the box for security and safety during a roll over.

 

[scanny]

I have no problem with selling/buying this kit, it's a hardware after all. The only thing I wish there was at least basic description of what involved in the installation. The switch looks like a good idea, I would just try to relocate it to a place where it's not likely to be activated by moved cargo or use some sort of tab which need to be flicked open to access the switch. However since I usually afraid (or very careful) when it comes to removing panels and cutting holes in the truck I normally try to access what needs to be done for the mod, things I can potentially screw up and and if it worth risk for me : )

 

[EffayBravo]

Yeah this is a great idea. Def agree with other regarding the switch, a recessed version would be ideal.

Look forward to seeing a write up of the install from one of you guys.

 

[snitz427]

Sweet! Why do people expect stuff for free? Yea write ups are cool (and much appreciated), but I dont blame OP for making a few bucks off something that I, for one, would gladly pay someone else to do for me!

Stupid question, but there’s not risk of battery drain or anything like that having the switch available when powered off? When it comes to anything electrical - I have no clue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Titanpat57]

Got my stuff yesterday...fast shipping!

We have snow looming this weekend so doubtful it'll make it in .....but soon as I do I'll update. The instructions look great too!

 

[adio3x]

Kudos to you sir!

For the haters: Way back when, I made one of the first Satoshi Grilles for the 2010s. A ton of people asked me to do write ups, and then a ton of people asked me to make them. I too am just a dude in a garage, I use the most basic of tools including a dremel & a pair of tin snips. I even said all of this in my for sale thread, yet people still wanted me to make Satoshi's for them. There's always going to be people that are not comfortable with cutting into stock parts or aren't comfortable using electric tools. If you can figure it out for yourself, then good for you. But a lot of people cannot. There's countless threads of installs for aftermarket grilles on the 5th gen, yet to this day, I'll get people still requesting me to make one for them.

Great job man! I thought about this for about 20 minutes and then realized even if I do open my hatch from the inside, I have a tire carrier blocking the hatch lol.

 

[MeefZah]

I am interested in this product. Curious, how much of the side panel did you have to remove? Just pry back the top half? Or is it possible to mount the controls on the hatch?
The reason I’m asking is that my storage box is bolted to the floor and I would have to disassemble it to unbolt the box for security and safety during a roll over.

I did mine on the hatch. It's actually easier and more efficient for me. I put them on the top sill.

From the underside, during the install:

 

[MeefZah]

Sweet! Why do people expect stuff for free? Yea write ups are cool (and much appreciated), but I dont blame OP for making a few bucks off something that I, for one, would gladly pay someone else to do for me!

Stupid question, but there’s not risk of battery drain or anything like that having the switch available when powered off? When it comes to anything electrical - I have no clue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No risk. This basically fools the truck into thinking you are using the hatch button by the license plate or the hatch keyhole to roll the window down / unlock the truck. For lack of a better term the factory switches are being "jumped" over.

 

[MeefZah]

Yeah this is a great idea. Def agree with other regarding the switch, a recessed version would be ideal.

Look forward to seeing a write up of the install from one of you guys.

I actually hope no one does an in depth install post without OP's permission. Part of what is being paid for is the research and knowledge be put into this. The instructions are really, in my mind, what you are buying. I had the stuff to make these in my garage, but i lacked the knowledge of the factory harness / ECU.

 

[btcsxj]

Apparently you haven't read many people's threads on here... especially Antman's. There are a lot of us who have spent a lot of time documenting mods with detailed instructions and pictures.

The OP is selling about $5 worth of material for $50.

Conclusion here is that this ^^ guy's time and effort isn't worth very much.

If this guy only makes $30 for a half hour's work, he probably couldn't even make a business out of that even if he had a million customers. And that's by YOUR simple math. Any business owner will tell you there are countless hidden costs associated with doing business. But math is hard so, i'll give you a pass.

 

[Ohio_Steve]

My kit arrived today. It is put together very well, looking quite professional. I'd accidentally tossed the email with the instructions, and when it arrived, I emailed Jesse asking for the PDF, which was sent within minutes.

Once the weather warms up, I'll be installing the kit, and while I have the back cover off, installing some additional LEDs and a first aid kit quick release. Three birds; one stone...

Thanks Jesse,
Steve

 

[MeefZah]

Here's a better photo of the top sill rear hatch install, looking down with the rear window open.

The blank hole cover is a 3/4" hole plug which I installed because I accidentally overbored the first 1/2" hole I was drilling for the red hatch release button... Doh!

It may also be worth noting (it's not obvious) that you are actually getting 5 functions with this. The hatch can be opened from inside, the window can be adjusted up and down, and the doors can be locked and unlocked.

 

[Off-choader]

I actually hope no one does an in depth install post without OP's permission. Part of what is being paid for is the research and knowledge be put into this. The instructions are really, in my mind, what you are buying. I had the stuff to make these in my garage, but i lacked the knowledge of the factory harness / ECU.

It is tapping 3 wires, most likely a ground, 12v+ constant on from the light and one going to the keyhole switch. A lot of this already documented by forummembers including hatch panel removal. If I wasn't overseas I would pop that cover off and post it.

50$ to tap one wire, again People will buy a kit for clean easy install, but this forum would be straight garbage if it wasn't for the open source sharing of information about the 4runner.

 

[MeefZah]

but this forum would be straight garbage if it wasn't for the open source sharing of information about the 4runner.

To an extent, I agree with you.

However, OP has time and money invested in this (service manuals, bulk components, assembly, testing on at least 2 different generations of trucks, shipping, etc) and it is reasonable for him to expect a return - and I'm sure it's a small one - on his investment. Other people have already broken down approximate costs for parts and shipping and his time, so I don't need to re-hash that; but I'm personally confident that he's not going to be quitting his day job anytime soon with the profit he'll make from the 12 kits he's going to sell on this forum.

 

[longeuayms]

[MENTION=165350]nytosc[/MENTION] ,
Great Kit, I like it. Do the switches have to be mounted on the pillar, or could they be mounted on the hatch or farther up in the cab?

Thanks! Do we just PM you for an order?

 

[nytosc]

[MENTION=165350]nytosc[/MENTION] ,
Great Kit, I like it. Do the switches have to be mounted on the pillar, or could they be mounted on the hatch or farther up in the cab?

Thanks! Do we just PM you for an order?

If you'd like, I can do a custom harness that is a little longer so that you can mount it wherever you'd like. Just let me know the length.

PM me to discuss further. thanks!

 

[WallyT4R]

Ordered! :madgrin: