Unique to me Timing Belt question

segafan1989

segafan1989

New member
I purchased a 2002 4Runner 2WD V6 a month ago from an older guy who is a charter pilot. It has 55,500 miles on it. The engine compartment and undercarriage are immaculate. I was skeptical at first but all of the rubber for various joints and hoses a look new. It was purchased new, driven for a year, stored in a garage for 8 years and driven again in 2011 until now.

My question is this. Should I go ahead and replace the timing belt since it's been 12 years and I don't know if it was ever done or not? Again, it only has 55,500 miles on it so it obviously hasn't been driven very much but I don't know about the time. 12 years on the original belt may be too much. I believe the service guide said 90,000 miles or 60 months (don't quote me on that because I'm not sure).

Can any of you gear head superstars lend some advice? It would be immensely appreciated!
 
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If It's the original belt, you're overdue for replacement just based on time, but that doesn't mean it couldn't go for another decade.

I believe the 3rd gen is a non-interference engine, meaning the only thing that happens is the truck won't run if it breaks (rather than engine damage). Obviously, you'll want to let some owners chime in and verify that, but after that it's your call.

It comes down to how long you can be comfortable taking a small risk that you'll get stranded sometime.
 
I can't remember exactly, but the timing belt is rated at either 7 or 9 years if I remember correctly. Either way, it is overdue for a replacement. Also, [MENTION=2798]JB.[/MENTION] is right, the 3VZ-E is a non-interference motor so no harm if your TB breaks. You will only be down for the time it takes to tow/repair the broken belt.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. I don't have the 3VZ-E though, I have the 5VZ-FE and from the numerous websites and forums I've read, it is and it isn't an interference engine. Is there anyway to tell? I don't put much faith in internet hear-say.
 
segafan1989 said:
Thanks for the replies fellas. I don't have the 3VZ-E though, I have the 5VZ-FE and from the numerous websites and forums I've read, it is and it isn't an interference engine. Is there anyway to tell? I don't put much faith in internet hear-say.
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Wow! Its late, I know that. lol Thought it said 1992, not 2002. I was wondering why you were posting in 3rd gen area. Ill be heading to bed soon it seems. But same year limit applies, and the 5VZ-FE is a non interference motor as well.
 
My belt is 15 years old, but will be getting replaced next month finally.

Non interference.

Change the fluids first and foremost. If you have the $$$ for a TB/H20 replacement, by all means get it done.
 
Those timing belts wear like iron and almost never break all on their own. Usually the water pump leaks coolant on them or an idler seizes up and kills them. (Read the TB mega-thread on YT. I was researching this and read every stinkin' page. http://www.yotatech.com/f2/how-many-miles-your-3-4l-timing-belt-55233/)

So yeah, drive it short-term. It is absolutely non-interference.

But all that said, one of those TB components will get you one of these days, probably the water pump. I doubt coolant maintenance has been maintained on a car with that low mileage. (How does the rad look inside?) So I would do the whole timing/cooling thing: TB, WP, both idlers, and hydraulic tensioner, as well as aux. belts, thermostat, and rad hoses before I would have any real confidence in that rig. 12 years is a lot of time, regardless of mileage. Give yourself a new baseline and drive happy and secure.
 
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TheDurk said:
Those timing belts wear like iron and almost never break all on their own. Usually the water pump leaks coolant on them or an idler seizes up and kills them. (Read the TB mega-thread on YT. I was researching this and read every stinkin' page. How many miles on your 3.4L timing belt? - YotaTech Forums)

So yeah, drive it short-term. It is absolutely non-interference.

But all that said, one of those TB components will get you one of these days, probably the water pump. I doubt coolant maintenance has been maintained on a car with that low mileage. (How does the rad look inside?) So I would do the whole timing/cooling thing: TB, WP, both idlers, and hydraulic tensioner, as well as aux. belts, thermostat, and rad hoses before I would have any real confidence in that rig. 12 years is a lot of time, regardless of mileage. Give yourself a new baseline and drive happy and secure.
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Yep, everything TheDurk said ^^.
I would add emphasis on the radiator too. You'll be pulling it to get at the TB assembly anyway, so get a new rad and be done with it.

This is a pic of my original water pump, slowly hemorrhaging after 10yrs & 150k. Timing belt probably would have kept going, but who knows about that WP.
 

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After 15 years and 105,000 miles, my WP does not leak at all. No loss of coolant. But the bearing is most likely on its last legs. The only thing that has helped prolong its life is that I installed a new OEM fan clutch three years ago. Steal on CL for $25.
 
ToyOtis said:
Yep, everything TheDurk said ^^.
I would add emphasis on the radiator too. You'll be pulling it to get at the TB assembly anyway, so get a new rad and be done with it.

This is a pic of my original water pump, slowly hemorrhaging after 10yrs & 150k. Timing belt probably would have kept going, but who knows about that WP.
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Yeah, that is a very good point. I would hate to buy a cherry 2002 and then get a pink milkshake in the first six months. Either swap that rad (preferable) or by-pass the ATF cooler or part for an external or both (ideal). Search 'pink milkshake' and 'strawberry milkshake' on this site to understand why. I'm a 5-speed guy so I didn't think of that.
 
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Good grief those timing kits are expensive! I guess you pay for quality. I'll check the radiator tomorrow as I didn't have time today but the engine compartment is VERY clean. No leaks around the water pump and the outside of the radiator looks new...doesn't even have any bent fins.
 
segafan1989 said:
Good grief those timing kits are expensive! I guess you pay for quality. I'll check the radiator tomorrow as I didn't have time today but the engine compartment is VERY clean. No leaks around the water pump and the outside of the radiator looks new...doesn't even have any bent fins.
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I picked up a timing belt/water pump kit on RockAuto that included a new Aisin water pump, OE timing belt (mfg by Mitsuboshi), new Koyo idler and tensioner pulleys, and a new tensioner for right at $200 shipped. The job isn't hard, but getting a clean surface for the water pump to seal against was kind of a pain in the neck. The water pump has a rubber gasket built into it, which kind of threw me off since the one on the car was sealed with RTV. No leaks in the last 15 months, so whatevs.
 
bandman659 said:
I picked up a timing belt/water pump kit on RockAuto that included a new Aisin water pump, OE timing belt (mfg by Mitsuboshi), new Koyo idler and tensioner pulleys, and a new tensioner for right at $200 shipped. The job isn't hard, but getting a clean surface for the water pump to seal against was kind of a pain in the neck. The water pump has a rubber gasket built into it, which kind of threw me off since the one on the car was sealed with RTV. No leaks in the last 15 months, so whatevs.
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The originals from the factory were all FIPG, no gasket, and the flange of the WP had a channel in it all the way around for the FIPG. Toyota redesigned the part after a few years to the gasket type.
 
I got my kit from amazon. It had everything mentioned for around 255 with free shipping.

I believe the company was "the timing belt kit company" or something very similar.

Was very happy with kit.
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
I got my kit from amazon. It had everything mentioned for around 255 with free shipping.

I believe the company was "the timing belt kit company" or something very similar.

Was very happy with kit.
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Thanks for that input my friend! I'm definitely gonna check it out.
 
Just finished my timing belt,water pump, idlers, I would check tensioner first probs still good so that'll save some cabbage, just make sure you have a big breaker bar with cheater bar! trust me... Def have to be mechanically inclined tho, a shop manual u can get from any auto store for $28 dollars and worth every penny. I had fun and good luck!
 
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