Unner's Build, 2001 T4R 4x4

[Unner]

[MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] [MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION]

uhhhhh..... ok well i only installed one... I'm feeling a little nervous now...

You did an e-locker on your's didn't you? Maybe that got rid of the need for the two lines. If I recall correctly when I looked under mine I could see both of the brake lines above the rear diff and to the side kinda, not directly above it.

 

[infamousRNR]

You did an e-locker on your's didn't you? Maybe that got rid of the need for the two lines. If I recall correctly when I looked under mine I could see both of the brake lines above the rear diff and to the side kinda, not directly above it.

dang... good call...

i now technically have a 97' rear axel....

i feel like i should have kept my other axel for some reason... oh well. life is too short to worry about those type of things.

 

[MattJakobs]

You did an e-locker on your's didn't you? Maybe that got rid of the need for the two lines. If I recall correctly when I looked under mine I could see both of the brake lines above the rear diff and to the side kinda, not directly above it.

dang... good call...

i now technically have a 97' rear axel....

i feel like i should have kept my other axel for some reason... oh well. life is too short to worry about those type of things.

From my install, I remember it being one over the rear diff and one pushed about halfway towards the driverside.

 

[Unner]

dang... good call...

i now technically have a 97' rear axel....

i feel like i should have kept my other axel for some reason... oh well. life is too short to worry about those type of things.

Eh, if I find an e-locker I'll hold onto my original axle for a little while to make sure the new one is good, and then it would be sold most likely. I can't keep all the stock parts off this thing. I'd need an entire storage unit by the time I'm done with it haha

From my install, I remember it being one over the rear diff and one pushed about halfway towards the driverside.

This sounds exactly right actually.

 

[Unner]

I sorta pre assembled my new sway bar end links. Not bad for about $80 for everything all together. They should be about an inch longer front and rear. They are universal kit's that I special ordered at AutoZone and the eyebolt looking things are actually solid rod ends from McMaster-Carr. Then a grade 8 nut for the inner side, the sleeve/spacer that I still have to cut and pres into the sway bar, and a locking nut on the outside. I also have to trim the bolts down once I know how long they need to be.

20151125_222659 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
spidertrax order by Unner Unner, on Flickr

I also jumped on another black friday deal. 10% off and free shipping on SpiderTrax spacers directly from them. I went with the black instead of the traditional blue since my rig is black and I don't have much going in the way of bright colors haha. This should help out a little with stability after the lift since I'm running skinny 255/75/17's I hope. I also hadn't thought about it until ordering but with the spacers my stock spare should clear the TBU so I don't need to keep looking for a different wheel to run for a spare unless I get a swingout, then I would get a matching spare.

Now the only things I'm currently looking for are UCA's, Panhard Bar, and rear control arms possibly depending on if they are needed after the lift.

I've also been looking at "recovery" type of equipment like a Viair 88p compressor, jump starter, hi-lift, and a rear storage compartment on the passenger side like the one 4-Ripcord had on his old 4Runner.

Any suggestions on where to mount a hi-lift? I'd like to keep it inside the truck but can't use the Patco mounts if I make a rear storage box like mentioned before. I feel like outside it's not good because it's exposed to rain and such and would just add more drag to the 4Runner.

 

[papabeach]

I've also been looking at "recovery" type of equipment like a Viair 88p compressor, jump starter, hi-lift, and a rear storage compartment on the passenger side like the one 4-Ripcord had on his old 4Runner.

Any suggestions on where to mount a hi-lift? I'd like to keep it inside the truck but can't use the Patco mounts if I make a rear storage box like mentioned before. I feel like outside it's not good because it's exposed to rain and such and would just add more drag to the 4Runner.

--Your build is coming along great, can't wait to see the lift on!
--Curious what you think of the BAMF LCA skids and install process
--We have the 450P...overkill for the 285s on our 4Runner but if you plan to go bigger or use it for any larger vehicles, the 100% duty cycle and extra accessories are nice
--FWIW, we are very happy with our PATCO mounts & 48" Hi-Lift...but don't have a storage box. Sounds like you might just need to get that rear bumper you are thinking about and mount your Hi-Lift there! Problem solved!! You can always add a Hi-Lift/TJM jack bag if you really want to keep it a little more protected but those things look like a PITA to put on and take-off and I am not convinced they keep all moisture out.

 

[TBuzz]

Good stuff going on in here [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION]. Looks like you know exactly what direction you are going. I like how you started with a lot of the basics that I skipped over. Sound system, sound deadening, big 3 etc..i have run a similar set up for the end links from Autozone and had to cut them off both times as they bend easily when 4 wheeling.

 

[Unner]

--Your build is coming along great, can't wait to see the lift on!
--Curious what you think of the BAMF LCA skids and install process
--We have the 450P...overkill for the 285s on our 4Runner but if you plan to go bigger or use it for any larger vehicles, the 100% duty cycle and extra accessories are nice
--FWIW, we are very happy with our PATCO mounts & 48" Hi-Lift...but don't have a storage box. Sounds like you might just need to get that rear bumper you are thinking about and mount your Hi-Lift there! Problem solved!! You can always add a Hi-Lift/TJM jack bag if you really want to keep it a little more protected but those things look like a PITA to put on and take-off and I am not convinced they keep all moisture out.

Thanks! Should be lifted in about a week! I'll be sure to let you know how the LCA skids go, it'll probably be a few months though before they get put on. They were kinda an impulse buy haha

I really like the bigger nicer Viair compressors, but I'm not sure i can justify spending that much on a compressor I probably won't use all that much. Most of the wheeling around here is private parks that have air on site.

I'm trying to come up with a solution to use the Patco mounts and have a storage box maybe. I might also just mount it to the rack and be done with it. I'm not sold on those bags either, they seem like they would almost trap moisture in them once it gets in.

Good stuff going on in here [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION]. Looks like you know exactly what direction you are going. I like how you started with a lot of the basics that I skipped over. Sound system, sound deadening, big 3 etc..i have run a similar set up for the end links from Autozone and had to cut them off both times as they bend easily when 4 wheeling.

Thanks man! Your truck is kinda an inspiration for mine being a black sport with an AOR bumper haha. I tried to get all the small stuff sorted first like you said hoping it would make things easier down the road. No regrets so far, now I really get to play with her now that the maintenance and such is done too!

The sound system is awesome and worth every penney I spent on it. It's so clear sounding now. The sound deadening made a difference too even though I only did the front two doors. It's a little quieter with my mud tires now. I still have to do the rest of the truck, but I think the area that will make the biggest difference is the cargo area.

That's not promising to hear about the end links... What exactly bends on them? The actual end link to the bolt running to the sway bar?



I went to the junkyard today hoping to find some Blazers and Jimmy's to pull bump stops off of, but no such luck. They had about 10 there but none had usable parts. Instead I ordered stuff to make my own custom bumpstops, they should work better, look nicer, and most importantly it's not a 20 year old part going on the truck. I ordered stuff to make a few extra sets for any members here that are interested. They will be similar to the SS bumpstops, but much cheaper. I wasn't about to pay that much for bump stops. Shoot me a PM or post here if you're interested!

 

[Unner]

Well today I went to install my extended brake lines. 6 hours later I got one of them installed. The way the lines fit into the brackets doesn't really work. The shape of the stock lines doesn't match the shape of the wheelers lines. I called wheelers and they said you just kinda have to force it in there. That worked for the bottom bracket on the driver side line on my 01, but the top side was not even close. I sat there with a file under the truck filling away at the line trying to get it to match the stock hole. I got it eventually...

For the center one that comes down right over the diff I couldn't get the hard line off the soft line. The nut started to round and I didn't want to destroy it so I just called it there. I bent the bracket down to 45* or so and I guess I'll see how the line looks once I get the lift installed. I may be able to bend it a little more. Some say the stock lines are long enough left as is, some say the bracket needs to be bent, some say even after bending the bracket it still isn't long enough. Everything seems to be different on everyone's truck.

So much for plug and play and an easy install that takes an hour tops...

If it isn't long enough I guess my options are to try and get the hardline off without damage and put the extended line on, put the extended line on the bottom of the stock soft line(I feel like this would make it way too long), or get a custom made line that has the same fittings but is only like 3-4" long and just add it to the bottom of the soft line by the diff.

Hopefully the rest of the install goes smoother later this week.

 

[Unner]

I got the lift installed Friday and finished up a couple things with it this morning. I started with the rear which took longer than I expected. I had to run out and get bigger jack stands halfway through because I couldn't articulate the axle enough with my 3 ton ones.

Then I started on the front. The passenger side went pretty well, it took a minute to get the bottom shock bolt lined up but I got it eventually. I also loosed the UCAs when I did mine to get more droop easily. I retourqued them once I was at ride height. The driver side put up more of a fight with that awfully placed inner nut on the top strut mount... Any how I got the coilovers in but it was sitting too high up front so I went to lower it and Toytecs instructions were unclear. It says to hold the lower collar still while you turn the upper one. No where does it mention to loosen the lower collar and position it where you want it before turning the upper. I figured it out eventually, but this being my first experience with coilovers I was trying to follow the instructions to a T.

I lowered the coilovers half an inch thread wise on both sides. This morning I got my diff drop put in. I had to pull my engine and transmission skid and haven't got them back in yet.

It really rides great, I have a pic of the alignment sheet below. It tracks good and rides better than it did before. The new LC coils seem to handle weight really well too. It doesn't feel as jarring as it did before going over rough patches of road. I'm very pleased. It doesn't dive as much anymore when braking either it seems. There's a huge difference getting in and out of the truck too, but driving it doesn't seem too much different which is good.

Here's my measurements before and after:

Before:
DF 34 1/4" 19 1/8"
PF 34 3/8" 19 1/4"
DR 35 1/2" 20 1/2"
PR 35 3/4" 20 1/2"

After: (Note, without engine and trans skid, probably sit just a tad lower with those, maybe 1/8")
DF 37 1/4" 22"
PF 37 1/2" 22 1/8"
DR 38 3/4" 23 1/2"
PR 39" 23 1/2"

In total I gained ~3" in the front and 3.25" in the back. I've got about 1.5" of rake right now.


Here's some pics from yesterday and today.
DSC02731 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02727 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02726 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02725 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02724 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02722 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02720 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02718 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02716 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02715 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02714 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02672 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02758 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02750 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02748 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02735 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02732 by Unner Unner, on Flickr


Tomorrow I plan to change my oil, rotate tires, install sway bar end links, retorque rear control arms, wash and wax, and maybe front bump stops.

I finished making the bump stops for the rear, just need to paint them in the morning. I've got enough stuff to make 4 extra sets currently, let me know if you're interested. I'll have a for sale thread up with them soon.

A few questions about some lift stuff.

Do I need to do anything with the parking brake cable? It seems to be very tight, but the sonoran steel sight says it is not needed for the 01-02 4Runners.

Any ideas for the rear brake line? I've been thinking about just having a short extension being made that I can hook up to the bottom of the line right at the diff. That or finding one that will work at an autozone or so.

How do my CV angles look? I suspect the stock boots will tear here soon so I am planning to replace. I haven't decided if I want to reboot mine and deal with that mess or put new NAPA ones in and have the lifetime warranty. Then keep one of my original ones and reboot it at my leisure to have as a back-up. I'm waiting to install my spacers until I know if the stock boots are going to hold up.

 

[Unner]

Here's the alignment sheet. Looks pretty good I think for stock UCAs. I wasn't expecting it to drive this good after the lift. I think aftermarket UCAs have been pushed back on the list for now.
20151205_223809 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

 

[jman11788]

Your Cv angle looks identical to mine. Mine started to rip in about 2 weeks after I installed my lift. I've been driving on ripped boots for about 15k. For all that time I was contemplating on re booting or buying a new axle. I decided to just buy new ones and reboot the OEM's for a spare. Today I went to Napa and got 2 axles $88 each with the warranty. I like sticking to OEM parts but don't find myself spending that much dough for no warranty..

Anyways... Your rig looks great! Congrats with the install

 

[Unner]

Your Cv angle looks identical to mine. Mine started to rip in about 2 weeks after I installed my lift. I've been driving on ripped boots for about 15k. For all that time I was contemplating on re booting or buying a new axle. I decided to just buy new ones and reboot the OEM's for a spare. Today I went to Napa and got 2 axles $88 each with the warranty. I like sticking to OEM parts but don't find myself spending that much dough for no warranty..

Anyways... Your rig looks great! Congrats with the install

Thanks man. I can't stand leaving anything broke so I'm gonna replace the axles as soon as they tear. Hows the quality look on those NAPA CVs?

 

[jman11788]

Thanks man. I can't stand leaving anything broke so I'm gonna replace the axles as soon as they tear. Hows the quality look on those NAPA CVs?

For them being aftermarket and not OEM or the Lotus Cvs I can't complain. Only time will tell

 

[AssBurns]

Don't waste your money going OEM CV axles. I've broken an OEM axle and replaced it with aftermarket and it holds up fine. If you plan on wheeling hard they both will break so save your money and carry spares

 

[habanero]

In the case of regular cv axles...one me's experiences...

I wish I had re-booted my original cvs rather than changed them out BUT I've not broken a cv joint (yet).

Biggest problem I had with aftermarket new axles were cheap rubber boots lasting only a year- they degraded and cracked til they leaked.

The aftermarket remans (A1 Cardone) held up okay but the boots rubbed holes into themselves until I did a boot stretch.

The last set I rebooted my oem axles with Toyota boot kits. Not much time on them yet and they only move when I lock the hubs so are lasting nicely.

 

[rtarv32101]

Unner, truck looks great as usual!!

 

[LittleCaesar]

Looks good. Watch out for those torn boots. NAPA would be my #1 choice though I am using ones from O'reilys with no real problems, yet if I had to do it again, I'd use NAPA.
If you need a run down on tools for the job, just holler.

I would imagine the parking brake cable should be long enough for ya. No problem there.

 

[Unner]

For them being aftermarket and not OEM or the Lotus Cvs I can't complain. Only time will tell

Yeah, I'm thinking NAPA right now since I get to keep my OEM ones and can always go back to them if I want.

Don't waste your money going OEM CV axles. I've broken an OEM axle and replaced it with aftermarket and it holds up fine. If you plan on wheeling hard they both will break so save your money and carry spares

Most of the miles I put on this truck are on pavement since it is my DD, but I do like to get it out and on the trails. Nothing too crazy though since I don't like breaking stuff and not having a working vehicle.

In the case of regular cv axles...one me's experiences...

I wish I had re-booted my original cvs rather than changed them out BUT I've not broken a cv joint (yet).

Biggest problem I had with aftermarket new axles were cheap rubber boots lasting only a year- they degraded and cracked til they leaked.

The aftermarket remans (A1 Cardone) held up okay but the boots rubbed holes into themselves until I did a boot stretch.

The last set I rebooted my oem axles with Toyota boot kits. Not much time on them yet and they only move when I lock the hubs so are lasting nicely.

I don't see locking hubs in my future, but who knows! These things tend to snowball out of control quickly...

Unner, truck looks great as usual!!

Thanks!

Looks good. Watch out for those torn boots. NAPA would be my #1 choice though I am using ones from O'reilys with no real problems, yet if I had to do it again, I'd use NAPA.
If you need a run down on tools for the job, just holler.

I would imagine the parking brake cable should be long enough for ya. No problem there.

Thanks, I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on them. The inner boots looked pretty old and dry rotted when I was under there so I won't be shocked when they let go. The only ones I'm really debating between are the NAPA ones and rebooting my OEM ones, NAPA seems to be the simplest solution as of right now though. Less than $200 out the door for both sides and I get to keep my OEM ones to reboot as spares whenever I get bored and want to do it.

I only need a 14mm for the LBJ bolts, 35mm or 36mm for the axle nut, a pry bar and hammer right? It looks like a pretty simple job I think.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Got an impact gun or long breaker bar to take off the axle nut? The OEM nut is 35mm, aftermarkets are usually 36mm. I just reuse the OEM nut.

Just take care not to tear the outer seal in the diff housing, a la make sure the shaft goes in as straight as possible.

Spend an extra $10 to $15 for new LBJ bolts from the dealer.