URD MAF Sensor Calibrator

there is a member here who has dyno'd after most mods. he did see a +10hp increase with a trd cai. he also installed the urd y-pipe and maf but i dont remember what his figures were after the install but i believe he got rid of his pedal commander when he installed the MAF.

but anywhoo i just bit the bullet and purchased the MAF as well as the Y-pipe. i just wished shipping was included :(

anyone know the lead time for the y-pipe and the maf? i think i read somewhere the MAF was taking awhile to ship?
 
jasxn said:
there is a member here who has dyno'd after most mods. he did see a +10hp increase with a trd cai. he also installed the urd y-pipe and maf but i dont remember what his figures were after the install but i believe he got rid of his pedal commander when he installed the MAF.

but anywhoo i just bit the bullet and purchased the MAF as well as the Y-pipe. i just wished shipping was included :(

anyone know the lead time for the y-pipe and the maf? i think i read somewhere the MAF was taking awhile to ship?
Click to expand...

Does the y pipe require spare relocation ?
 
Friggin Idiot said:
Designated as "off-road use only" because it removes a the 2nd pair of catalytic converters, affecting emissions.
Click to expand...

I'm just trying to find a good exhaust that give a good upgrade to tone and maybe a "lil" hp. Going with a TRD CAI (unless someone else can tell me what will fit with my ARB Safari snorkel), and URD MAF. I think that should sit well, right?

I'm used to lifts, suspension, radios, lights, but not as much engine...
 
FrenchToasty said:
Maf calibrator only does A small ammount and only at WOT, the commander would probably be money better spent
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FrenchToasty said:
It's out there somewhere, the urd calibrator only works at start up and Wot(pretty sure that's "open loop")and almost all driving is done in "closed loop"

And yes I have the maf calibrator
Click to expand...

someones not happy w/ their maf calibrator.. im gonna see if he'll contribute his thoughts here
 
Aznisegi said:
I'm just trying to find a good exhaust that give a good upgrade to tone and maybe a "lil" hp. Going with a TRD CAI (unless someone else can tell me what will fit with my ARB Safari snorkel), and URD MAF. I think that should sit well, right?

I'm used to lifts, suspension, radios, lights, but not as much engine...
Click to expand...

i honestly think a y pipe will be more beneficial than a exhaust or CAI... the pipe bends and crushed piping are obvious bottle necks to the 4runners respiratory system.. the OEM intake is as efficient as it'll get.. everything after the engine such as cats, y pipe, exhaust are the choke points for emission purposes.. and of course calibration

Since you have a snorkel that'll be your best CAI ever! Keep your filter clean. Take it out occasionally and just beat that shit against a wall and vacuum it out.
 
For those interested. Tech notes.
https://splitsec.com/tech-notes/


'Getting started with the R4 software'
'Running the R4 software on a USB port'
'Piggyback tuning'
'Setting up auxiliary inputs in R4'

Ideal setup, from what I understand, you would include a Air/Fuel ratio meter so you can fine tune it with the PC software.
 
Aznisegi said:
I'm just trying to find a good exhaust that give a good upgrade to tone and maybe a "lil" hp. Going with a TRD CAI (unless someone else can tell me what will fit with my ARB Safari snorkel), and URD MAF. I think that should sit well, right?

I'm used to lifts, suspension, radios, lights, but not as much engine...
Click to expand...

Keep the stock y-pipe just in case. but double check with TX emission rules. I live in Cali and it's horrible so unless i pay off the smog check dude i'll probably put back the stock before the checkup. but thats 5 years from now so not to worried about it now. just gotta make sure i dont lose it. lol
 
1jzgte said:
someones not happy w/ their maf calibrator.. im gonna see if he'll contribute his thoughts here
Click to expand...

Wfo9 or whoever has done a pretty good job explaining this thing, and I thought you had kinda agreed w him in an earlier post. I wouldn't say I'm unhappy, just not really impressed; maybe I need to ecu reset and have the borla cat back info programmed in there. I'm on stock size tires w a gobi sail rack and I get 14mpg on 87oct.
From what I've read and kinda what wof has said toyotas ecu will revert back to it's programmed parameters during closed loop (which is 90% of the time) and only looking for info from the urd maf during startup and wot(open loop) which isn't very often to be making a huge difference

I've also got the non plug and play version that's been mounted behind the glove box and hard wired in
 
borfoo3 said:
The URD MAF plug n play calibrator finally went on tonight.. easy as 2 plugs (the clean ones in my dusty engine pics, 1st on MAF and 2nd on spark). Main unit was zio tied in place and a few other zip ties to clean up the cables..

Instructions didn't say anything about resetting the ECU or unplugging the battery, so off I went for a test drive.. wow! The pickup and go in that midrange was enough to justify this.. didn't even care to try WOT (yet :) ). The truck basically feels like stock lightness with a sprinkle of better response even though I'm on 285s and full SSO rear steel bumper

If this thing keeps working the way it does without giving me the trouble I faced with the Sprint Booster (taken off last season and thrown in the storage) I'd definitely recommend it.. will find out as time goes by.
Click to expand...

What RPM ranges are you calling the mid-range? How do you feel about its performance under 2500rpm?
 
I have the y pipe and hi tuck exhaust installed. Waiting on my sbfilters new cold air intake they release and installing with my mf calibrator. let you know my thoughts when its all said and done
 
FrenchToasty said:
Wfo9 or whoever has done a pretty good job explaining this thing, and I thought you had kinda agreed w him in an earlier post. I wouldn't say I'm unhappy, just not really impressed; maybe I need to ecu reset and have the borla cat back info programmed in there. I'm on stock size tires w a gobi sail rack and I get 14mpg on 87oct.
From what I've read and kinda what wof has said toyotas ecu will revert back to it's programmed parameters during closed loop (which is 90% of the time) and only looking for info from the urd maf during startup and wot(open loop) which isn't very often to be making a huge difference

I've also got the non plug and play version that's been mounted behind the glove box and hard wired in
Click to expand...

Sorry i jumped to the conclusion that you regret the URD MAF calibrator when you recommended the sprint booster/pedal commander over it. Poor assumption on my part.

Youre right. I glanced at this thread and saw another electronic changer majiggie and thought it was just another load of baloney ecu hack. Then i did more reading on research on it.

Would adding the borla into the calibrator be that difficult? They advertise it as simple as an upload via USB > Serial cable. (which we gotta purchase).


I went back and read WFO's early comments. Yes he does mention the whole controversy between open and closed loop operation. Below is a quote from tacomaworld that confirms it as well:

I was told an interesting piece of information by URD. The MAF controller does not affect the A/F ratio below 4,500 rpms, because below that engine speed, the fuel metering system is always in closed loop regardless of throttle position or engine load. So any gains your engine makes will be above 4,500. Below that performance will remain exactly the same as it is now.

I had mistakenly believed that the ECU went into open loop any time the accelerator was floored. Now looking at my charts, I can see that even under wide open throttle, the A/F is held to around 15 by the fuel trims until around 4,500 rpms, and then it reverts to the factory preprogrammed fuel map that richens up the mixture.

I really respect Gadget's honesty, as he gave up a sale for the sake of telling the truth. My engine almost never makes it over 4,500 (except on the dyno), so a MAF controller would not make any difference on my truck in normal driving.

Greg
Click to expand...

Further reading
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nstalled-now-check-engine-light.341022/page-3
 
i mean shit.. if i could reduce the amount of fumes coming out of my exhaust during a cold start.. it might be worth a shot..
 
1jzgte said:
Sorry i jumped to the conclusion that you regret the URD MAF calibrator when you recommended the sprint booster/pedal commander over it. Poor assumption on my part.

Youre right. I glanced at this thread and saw another electronic changer majiggie and thought it was just another load of baloney ecu hack. Then i did more reading on research on it.

Would adding the borla into the calibrator be that difficult? They advertise it as simple as an upload via USB > Serial cable. (which we gotta purchase).


I went back and read WFO's early comments. Yes he does mention the whole controversy between open and closed loop operation. Below is a quote from tacomaworld that confirms it as well:



Further reading
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nstalled-now-check-engine-light.341022/page-3
Click to expand...

Apparently that was how the 2.7L worked and they never clarified the 4.0 operation. Good read nonetheless.
 
Y-pipe & MAF Calibrator ordered. Stay tuned.

FYI - I received an email from URD, new MAF Calibrators aren't shipping for a few weeks. They are on backorder.
 
Terrapod said:
Y-pipe & MAF Calibrator ordered. Stay tuned.

FYI - I received an email from URD, new MAF Calibrators aren't shipping for a few weeks. They are on backorder.
Click to expand...

same boat with the Maf Cal. installed the Y-pipe this past weekend. you'll be happy once youve installed it.
 
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